Check the power supply. Specifically test the 4V and 8V rails coming off the right connector, using the upper connector ground as they're actually generated off the digital voltages. Those are "reference" voltages for the displays. If they're not providing, it can cause ghosting.

We're awaiting a replacement power supply for our Solar Ride here (I may have screwed up the one that was in there), and we'll be able to see if that was our problem, but we were seeing the same thing, and our 4V and 8V rails weren't giving anything of value.

The missing segment might be an issue with the multiplexing chips on the right side of the MCU, or a bad pin in the connector.

R1A is in the upper left corner of the power supply. It connects directly to one of the lines of Q1, on the same side the 4V gets pulled from.

We ordered a "tested as good" original type power supply from TNT Amusements to replace the one I appear to have destroyed in an attempted rebuild, but one of the plans is to eventually replace as much of the silicon as we can manage in ours.

For the record, on ours I was getting something like 1V on the 4V line, and the 8V line was reading less than half a volt... negative. But the power supply also looked like it came from a previously routed machine (my husband is sure this machine never saw an arcade in its life, he worked at arcades and saw the sorts of wear and tear that rapidly afflicts the routed machines), with odd bodges and lifted traces around the two MOSFET style transistors.

Yeah, we got a replacement power supply in ourselves, albeit an old one because we're on a tight budget until early next year. Fixed the display issue up for us, but we're considering just replacing all the silicon when the money frees up.

Hoping your replacement power supply cures your issues.

If it shows something really odd like that only in the high score, that's a sign of corrupted bookkeeping memory. Once it gets to that, you can clear the memory, and set the scoring tiers for extra balls and starting high score, and it'll be fine. In fact, I'll be doing that specifically before guests start arriving for our housewarming party, so that it plays like it would have in a real arcade.

Our machine has the same symptom, same "fixed once we reset and set" solution for each power on session... and we have no battery backup for the bookkeeping memory on the MCU right now, which is a big part of it. We're kind of in a station keeping until after our housewarming with ours... I'd like to fit a battery to it, even with the risk of getting close to it with a soldering iron... yet we're also wondering about replacing the MCU, driver and power supply outright, or if we'll even be keeping the machine in the long-term (2+ years). Although, admittedly, even if we replaced all that silicon, we'd still be well ahead if we sold the game off.

Regarding a replacement, I've heard good things about Ni-Wumpf, and also about the Pascal X1 and X1-4, the latter which also eliminates two harness interconnects by replacing all three boards in the head.

Do remember that you need to reset, then press the test switch to advance to the next test to save the memory.