Test your fuses, but honestly, if that does not fix them trash the boards. There are so many obsolete parts on them. I don't think anyone repairs them anymore unless it is for their own game.

Does the game boot up? Do the displays work and can you add credits?

Sounds promising

Do the relays click 5 seconds after you turn on the game?

If none of the solenoids work, maybe there's an issue with the driver board or the connections on the driver board.

Do any of the computer-controlled lights come on if you activate some of the switches on the playfield?

There should be a fuse on the underside of the playfield for the solenoids. That might be a possibility as well if it was overlooked.

You said the outhole kicker works so the 24V fuse is OK.

When you press the start button does the Q relay (under playfield) operate?

Check the T and Q contacts highlighted below.

Close Encounters Coils.jpg

The pop bumpers and flippers are not controlled via the driver board, so that's not your issue.

Did you follow Clay's guides and make sure your transformers and bridge rectifiers are all good?

You need to throw away the old boards, repin all the wires into new connectors, and drop in a Pascal board. Anything else is wasting your time.

Definitely check your tilt and game relays. If the motherboard is working properly that is the biggest deal (also the most expensive to replace). The driver and power supply boards can be repaired, if the MPU chips (main CPU chips) are bad, the MPU is bad. I've rebuilt a few Sys 1 Power Supplies now. Pain in the butt, as it takes about an hour but it is totally doable and with new parts it will last a long time in home use. All components on the driver board can be replaced (though some will be with substitute components).

I disagree here, that is if the boards work. If the MPU works, no need to trash it. Do the ground mods at least for all three boards. No need to replace what works, unless you just want to spend 200 dollars. I really like CEOTC, it's got a lot going for it, spinner shot, tough left, roto target, drops, rollovers for the special. If you want more features, then get the Ni-Wumpf or I would actually get the Pascal Janin board. If you know everything on the PF is good, maybe just throw down for the Pascal all-in-one board for about $300 - replaces all three backbox boards with one unit, very well made, and some extra cool rule additions that I think are even a step above the Ni-Wumpf.

The Gottlieb System 1 MPU has spider chips that contain software and are unobtainable. It just isn't worth working on System 1 MPU boards. Purchase replacement Ni-Wumph is a good replacement as is the Pascal replacement, although the Pascal board is more expensive and shipping from Europe may add further to the cost. The Pascal board includes the driver board. It just isn't worth the time and effort to spend anytime on the CPU board.

http://www.ni-wumpf.com/System1CPU.html

The driver board can be repaired but replacements may be cost effective rather than repair. The edge connector fingers are usually worn/corroded and will require re-tinning.

http://www.ni-wumpf.com/System1Driver.html

You need to check the 5VDC at the CPU and check for AC ripple.

I would rebuild the power supply anyway. It's easy and cheap.

https://www.greatplainselectronics.com/proddetail.asp?prod=GTLB1-PEC-KIT

Next you need to re-pin the connectors.

I agree with EMsInKC -- but would consider alternative boards from Ni-Wumph

OP still hasn't established if the boards even need replacing yet. The game boots and the outhole kicker works, that's a good sign.

When the cost of a complete System 1 game is the same as a set of replacement boards it is worth trying to fix them.

this is what I'm saying.

From the problem described, really good chance the MPU is NOT bad. Bad System 1's tend to be dead dead.

Follow Clay;s guide or the pinwiki to isolate it down. Did you check voltage at the offending coils? Did you test power outputs off the supply?

Anything else is just conjecture and buying parts you may not need.

Before you rewire the game try this...with the playfield up manually hold in the Game Over relay and see if the slings, pops and flippers work.

I have added the voltages to the schematic to make it clear what is happening. If the outhole kicker is working then you must have +24VDC. The only thing preventing the slings/ops/flippers from not working are the T and Q relay contacts or a broken wire in that chain.

Close Encounters Coils.jpg

Coils with a stack of switches on them. Usually with a big "Q" and "T" sticker on them. These are photos from my Sinbad:

The relays are in the lower left corner. You can see the yellow Q and T stickers on them behind the wires.
20140720212617449.jpg

Really sounds like the under playfield Q game over relay is either mis adjusted, or not activating. Usually this is an easy fix. go to my website http://www.pinrepair.com/sys1 and i believe there's a video embedded there that discusses the Q game over relay and shows its workings.

Aside from that, jerry clause ( [email protected] ) repairs original sys1 boards.

Trashing good or almost good s1 boards is a bad idea. These games aren't worth a ton, having to buy new boards can quickly eclipse the value of the whole game.

Here's one source for those harnesses: http://www.bigdaddy-enterprises.com/harnesses/harness-index.htm

There's a few others too, but Big Daddy seems to be the least expensive.

Find the coil's resistance rating, and check the coil with a multimeter to see if it's good or bad.

https://www.flippers.com/coil-resistance.html

If it's still good, then check the wires to the coil for breaks using a multimeter.

Btw- can I cut that coil like thing (small, maybe a relay) out from the coin door area, the lightest jostle and it turns out the whole game. I think it is messing stuff up, and if not using coin up, likely no use for it

Good grief. No, please don't resort to butchering the game like that. The slam switch(es) probably just need adjustment. Repairing machines can take quite a bit of patience and research. A "band aid" fix just leads to problems later--kind of like soldering wires directly to the edge connectors.

It should be good then. A deviation of +/- 5% is normal.

Try tracing the wires and see if you can get a good continuity test from each lug on the coil to wherever each wire ends up. One of the wires may pass through a fuse. Both ends will probably end up at pins on one of the playfield's connectors.

So the problem is that Q is not energising.

Q1 is the driver transistor on the driver board that controls the Game Over Relay (Q)

A quick test for power and continuity from driver board to the Q coil is to ground the metal tab of Q1 on the driver board. If power and wiring is good then the relay will operate.

SYS1_Driver.jpg

he posted a picture of the driver board above with the Q1 transistor circled. go look at your game, the metal tab of this transistor will be obvious. with the game turned on, using an alligator test lead with one end connected to ground (you have done the ground mods right?)... touch the other end to the Q1 metal tab. this should pull in the under playfield Q transistor. (Note finding ground on a gottlieb isn't all that easy unfortunately, which may complicate this, but if you've done the ground mods, this will help.)

did you watch the http://pinrepair.com/sys1 videos embedded inside the repair guide? if not, you best go do that before doing anything else. the intro to system1 video should help give you a good beginner basis of information.

You should have a parts list in your manual. In the parenthesis after the part model numbers lists the places where the component would be found (ie, Q1)

The original transistor used was a Motorola NPN transistor U45.

Mouser: http://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Central-Semiconductor/CEN-U45/?qs=AjE1biBnhWMySrLgKJP7Kw%3D%3D

Big Daddy (search for CEN-U45): http://bigdaddy-enterprises.com/electronics/e_transistors.htm

Gottlieb manuals are not freely distributed, unlike other manufacturers.

If you want a manual, you will have to get one from PBResource.com, or from someone else selling one (ie, ebay).

I am just wrapping up a system 1 "Solar Ride" which had tons of connector problems. The main connector problems I had was to completely repin the cpu-to-driver board harness and the connector on the cpu board which went to the cabinet switches (specifically to the start button). Thank goodness I have a pdf copy of the Gottlieb System 1 Service Manual (I scanned it myself) which shows all the wires colors and pinout of all the connectors in the machine.

Hi Ken - I am working on bringing a solar ride back to life myself - if you would be willing to share the service manual with me also, I might actually have a fighting chance...thanks for considering.

I HIGHLY recommend you buy one... they are worth it!

System/1 Service Manual
Spiral Bound Copy.
Contain all System/1 Schemtics.
GTB-S/1-MAN
$12.00ea

http://www.pbresource.com/PinballPool.html

I keep trying to convince myself and others that Got's system 1's really aren't that bad... Now that I've owned one for over a year, I can confirm that they are just the absolute worst pieces of pinball crap that were every designed. Some things just aren't worth saving and pumping in crazy amounts of money and time into to get working. Push it off a roof!

This is coming from someone that really does like playing the system 1's, seriously. I just can't stand how crapy they were made though.

I like the system 1 machines!