(Topic ID: 346036)

Gottlieb Sys 3 Battery Drain

By customelectronic

6 months ago

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#1 6 months ago

Morning- Gottlieb Silver Slugger; it does have the lithium cell converter board in it, but it goes through batteries like crazy (bad u3/6 or low battery)- every few weeks! I replaced the 2032 holder with a 2450 figuring that maybe the extra umph would help, but that only lasts maybe 3-4 weeks.Replacing the cell does clear the error up. I tested the current draw on the cell while the game is powered down, although I can't quite recall the exact draw, it was extremely low (microamps) at the time. Not sure if I'm missing something? Is there possibly a part that goes haywire from time to time that's a known issue?

#2 6 months ago

Check the exact part number on the RAM chip. Maybe someone installed a 64K memory chip that is not intended to be battery backed up.

Otherwise i'd suspect something with the DS1210, which is the battery controller chip, or maybe the RAM itself. Maybe check if there is a lot of battery voltage drop across the chip with the power off. Also with the power on check if U3 P28 is at 5v or 3v.

I've come across RAM that drained a coin cell in a couple weeks a few times (AMI 5101s on WMS Sys 7 anyone?).

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#3 6 months ago

Great idea, I will check that out!

#4 6 months ago

Also check the battery current while power is on. Bad U6 might allow +5V to "charge" the battery, and that is something they do not like.

While power on, the battery current should be zero, power off some tens of microamps at most.

#5 6 months ago

Morning! So last night I did everything suggested. Currents are certainly higher than they should be

Powered Off, current draw on battery is 240uA

Powered On, current draw on battery is
220uA - this was key to make me scratch my head.

Powered On, Voltage at U6 pin 1 was 5.04V, Pin 8, 5.04, Pin 2 3.24 (new battery)

Powered Off, Voltage at U6 Pin 1 was 0V, Pin 8 was 0V, Pin 2 was 3.23

Voltage drops- the only difference I saw was maybe .01 volts across 1 & 2 when Off.

Now seeing that there was a current draw on the battery while ON is probably the smoking gun. I don't think it was a reverse current, like a charging current as Tuukka recommended to check, as I read this afterwards, but seeing that there was a draw makes me aim towards the DS1210 being defective, however I did not isolate U6 from the RAM to see if U6 is being dumb or the RAM is pulling more than it should. Also, when I mentioned that the current draw was low, the board was not installed, and U6 didn't get its proper reset, that's on me so the readings I said I had initially before this post were erroneous.

In addition to using a digital meter, I also used an analog Simpson to see if there were any slight variations in current. When OFF, the current averaged at that 220uA, but bounced around quite a bit.

Yes, U3 is the same 6116 as called out in the manual, and I can tell hasn't been changed out.

Because both the DS1210 and RAM are very low cost, I ordered both, but before I change any out, I'll cut the leg off of U6 pin 1 to see if the current draw from that to the RAM is suspect.

Thanks to all for your insight and recommendations! Will let you know how I make out.


#6 6 months ago

Nice work. I think the battery backed rams data retention current is supposed to be something like 5uA max.


1 week later
#7 6 months ago

I cut pins 1&2 on the 1210 to measure currents to the RAM and from the battery as I was trying to isolate the RAM and the 1210. After I did that, the standby current was so low it was not even measurable with the limitations on meters that I have (Fluke DMM, BK DMM, and the trusty Simpson 260 Analog which in my own humble opinion is the most accurate for low voltage and currents because there is no sampling delay with them, plus you can see fast variations; it's just fat, dumb and happy.)

The spec for that ST 6116LP RAM standby current is a measly 1uA.

So, I cannot say for sure, but MAYBE when I was cutting the legs or cleaning off the area and to solder test wires on, there was a wire "hair" on the chip/board, I cannot explain it any other way. In any event, I replaced the 1210, everything seems to be in working order, but I will keep an eye on it.

I thank you all for the help on this!


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