(Topic ID: 334164)

Gottlieb Sys 1 Totem Switch Troubles

By Quinnball

1 year ago


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  • 12 posts
  • 4 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 1 year ago by Quinnball
  • Topic is favorited by 3 Pinsiders

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#1 1 year ago

I was recently working on my System 1 totem pinball machine, added some lights and cleaned up a bit under the playfield. and suddenly switch 40, for the #1 & #3 rollover buttons stopped working, the connections on the switches work fine, and I checked with a multimeter and it leads all the way back to the diode board. not sure why its not working.. Don't think it has to do with the CPU because everything was working absolutely perfectly until I went under the playfield and put in some new LEDs... any ideas?

#2 1 year ago

If it is not the switch itself and not the associated diode usually it is a Strobe or Return issue on the switch matrix
In this case switches with the same Return ( 'B' 'C' & 'D' rollover ) or with the same strobe ( drop target #1 & #6) will
also not working, did you check them?

#3 1 year ago
Quoted from bontango:

If it is not the switch itself and not the associated diode usually it is a Strobe or Return issue on the switch matrix
In this case switches with the same Return ( 'B' 'C' & 'D' rollover ) or with the same strobe ( drop target #1 & #6) will
also not working, did you check them?

The Return and Strobe is working id assume, as B,C and D are working as well as drop targets 1 & 6... now that you mention it though, the D rollover and A both register when either of them are pressed.

#4 1 year ago
Quoted from Quinnball:

The Return and Strobe is working id assume, as B,C and D are working as well as drop targets 1 & 6... now that you mention it though, the D rollover and A both register when either of them are pressed.

A & D lights are linked, it says right on the instruction card on the apron. I know this because I started chasing this issue down on my newly acquired Totem and just happened to look at the card

#5 1 year ago

Oh haha makes sense! A and D ARE connected! Update, I'm in a bit of a tough spot.. I'm trying to learn to repair these machines and im a total newbie, it seems while trying to troubleshoot a switch on my system 1 gottlieb totem machine I put a multimeter set to continuity on the wrong end of a switch matrix diode and the other end to switch 40, the whole machine went out and smelled faintly of melted plastic.. I found that one of the 1n270 diodes on the part the multimeter was touching has blown... game turns on, displays show, lights are on and high score pops up but now the game won't start, so I've got two problems, the original switch (switch 40) not registering and now whatever I have done with my amateur and foolish repair attempts, I was wondering if anyone may have an idea of what I might have done to the machine

#6 1 year ago

“Testing a diode while it is still in a circuit will not only throw off results, it's also incredibly dangerous”

https://www.wikihow.com/Test-a-Diode

Remove the diode, discharge it, test it to make sure it still works, replace if needed.

Now, start checking all the fuses, one by one. Pull them out and test with the continuity setting on your DMM, don’t trust a visual inspection.

#7 1 year ago
Quoted from Dan_Halen:

Now, start checking all the fuses, one by one. Pull them out and test with the continuity setting on your DMM, don’t trust a visual inspection.

Holy smokes, I really messed up with that! I tested the fuses, an they are all working fine here's a pic of exactly where I put the Multimeter when testing and one of the diodes appears to be fully dead.

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#8 1 year ago

You’re gonna want to find a schematic at this point, I’ve no idea what the value of those (assuming) resistors are.

#9 1 year ago

The article refers to turning off power and making sure there is no residual power remains that could damage a meter or a person.

There is no residual power in a diode. It makes sense to test a diode out of circuit to eliminate false readings. You should discharge a capacitor before testing it. They can store residual power.

#10 1 year ago
Quoted from Billc479:

The article refers to turning off power and making sure there is no residual power remains that could damage a meter or a person.

There is no residual power in a diode. It makes sense to test a diode out of circuit to eliminate false readings. You should discharge a capacitor before testing it. They can store residual power.

Good to know, I have a hunch that what might've happened it that the Multimeter sent an electrical charge that the diode was supposed to supress, and I might've sent a high voltage signal upwards to the cpu/driver board in the machine? is it possible that I messed up the CPU? its still playing a lure chime sound every ten minutes, showing highscores and all the lights work.. or do you think its board related?

#11 1 year ago

The highest voltage in a battery powered meter is usually 9 volts, sometimes 12 volts (really, really old voltmeters), so the meter was not the source of failure. It sounds like you tried to measure resistance (continuity) with the machine on. Very bad thing to do. The power in the meter is not enough to melt something enough to smell it. That, or installing the LEDs with power on likely blew the diode and the switch matrix on the MPU. ( I’ve heard stories of people shorting stuff while installing bulbs.)

Replace the diode, and recheck the switch afterwards, with power off. Just the switch, not the wires. If you suspect a broken wire, that’s the time to go from point to point in the wiring.

#12 1 year ago
Quoted from Billc479:

Replace the diode, and recheck the switch afterwards, with power off. Just the switch, not the wires. If you suspect a broken wire, that’s the time to go from point to point in the wiring.

That sounds like its probably the problem! lesson learned, don't check continuity with the game on!! Ill replace the mpu and switch diodes and give an update then. Thanks so much!

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