Hi pfried
DANGER - You are and You will handle line current --- 110VAC can kill peope - also 24VAC - also 6VAC can kill people. Wear rubber gloves - exercise caution - NEVER touch bare metal - ALWAYS hold a Jumper-Wire at the insulation.

I show Your snippet of schematics again - "marked green" is what You have tested by plugging-in a light into the convenience-outlet.
Lets first stay on the 110VAC side --- the Target-Bank-Reset-Coil and the Sequence-Bank-Reset-Coil both operate on 110VAC. TOGGLE-OFF the pin and unplug the main power-cord - then locate these mentioned Reset-Coils. A short wire of unknown color runs to a fuse --- see the situation "marked red": clip-on a Jumper-Wire at "OTHER SIDE of the fuse" - take the other end of the Jumper-Wire to the main-power-switch and lay the end of the Jumper-Wire near it - lay it on wood. Look on the main power switch for "wire-in-the-pin-of-color-red". Practice a bit - hold the Jumper-Wire at the insulation and tip-on and pull away "at switch side wire-in-the-pin-of-color-red".

After practicing a bit: Plug-in, toggle-on --- then (caution) hold the Jumper-Wire at the insulation and tip-on and pull away "at switch side wire-in-the-pin-of-color-red" --- question: Does the Reset-Coil fire ? Depending on Your answer we will proceed to "24VAC-wirings" or we stay on "110VAC-wirings".

I very much like the Test-Light SteveFury made - see https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/reading-gottlieb-schematics#post-2634425 --- two car-bulbs of 12Volts put one behind the other - this sums-up to an 24VAC-Test-Light. (((I say everybody with an Williams and/or Gottlieb-pin should have such an Test-Light - make You one))) Greetings Rolf

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Hi pfried
sorry - in the JPG in post-8 I did not write "tip-on and pull away". In an functioning pin the feature "reset" is done by the Score-Motor turning and so closing Score-Motor-Switch-4B for just about a tenth or a fifth of a second. I sould have written: "Imitate the short period of time - tip-on and pull-off."

When You do "tip-on and pull away": Does this sound like an "bank resetting" ?

Clipping on permanent the Test-Light: Toggle-off the pin, unplug the main power cord (Safety Reasons). Locate the R-Relay*** or the S-Relay*** - look at the coil on the relay - on one side there are two wires of color-black soldered-on (actually it is one wire of color-black hopping to an relay - hopping to next relay - hopping ... etc.). Clip-on the Test-Light at this solder-lug on the coil - on side "wire(s)-black soldered-on" - take the other end of the Test-Light to the 24VAC-15-Amp-Fuse and lay the end of "Test-Light-Wire / gator clip" onto wood - side of fuse having soldered-on wire-color-red-green.

Then plug-in, toggle-on --- exercise care - hold the insulation of the wire / gator-clip and tip-on and pull-away "at fuse-side-wire-red-green". Question: Does the Test-Light lights up ?

R-Relay*** or the S-Relay***: The R-Relay or the S-Relay or another relay with these two wires-color-black is good to use --- I would use the R-Relay or the S-Relay because (probably soon) we will look at these relays as these relays must function when starting a new game.

(((I hope / guess when You make / wire Your Test-Light: The wiring is so current must flow through the first bulb - then flows through the second bulb - wired 'in series'))) Greetings Rolf

P.S.: If You have "just a little doubt": FIRST write about "doubt" - we clarify.

Hi pfried
You can test the functionality of Your "Home-made Test-Light" - use it on Your car. On the car we forget about fuses - simply connect one side of Your Test-Light to "PLUS-Pole on Your car-battery" and tip-on the other side of Your Test-Light onto "MINUS-Pole on Your car-battery". (I never did it but I say: Your Test-Light should give a dim light. Please: Try and write about.

We (most likely) have to work longer in time on the 110VAC-side. See the JPG - the "my brown line and text 'not yet tested' ": Toggle-off the pin and unplug the main power cord. Visually follow the wire-in-the-pin-color-red from "main power switch" to "Solder-Lug on transformer". When You are 100% sure "I (means You) can visually follow from "main power switch" to "Solder-Lug on transformer": You can establish an permanent Jumper-Wire-connection --- the Jumper-Wire will guarantee connection - as You may have the original wire (in the pin) broken inside the insulation. You have set the permanent jumper - You plug-in, toggle-on - THEN do the "test with the Test-Light" again --- does the Test-Light lights up ?
IF "NO , Test-Light does not light up": Toggle-off, unplug the main power-cord. See my "grey drawing in the JPG" - Visually follow wire-in-the-pin-color-white from "transformer-lug" to "Coil You have used for testing 'does the Reset-Coil fire' " --- When You are 100% sure "I (means You) can visually follow from transformer-lug to Reset-Coil-side-wire-white is soldered-on": You can establish an permanent Jumper-Wire-connection --- the Jumper-Wire will guarantee connection - as You may have the original wire (in the pin) broken inside the insulation. By now You have set the TWO permanent jumpers - You plug-in, toggle-on - THEN do the "test with the Test-Light" again --- does the Test-Light lights up ?

If still "No luck": We are in serious trouble.

I feel uncomfortable - doing "long distance diagnosing - testing 'LINE CURRENT' " --- please wear rubber gloves - may ask a friend to be ready to immediately toggle-off the pin.

Here in Switzerland it is 25 minutes before midnight - I go to sleep, till tomorrow, greetings Rolf

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Hi pfried
We look at the picture in post-17 - text "this one" --- wire of color-red. You say "on the main power switch on one side of the switch is soldered-on wire of identical-color-red": Yes - You then can proceed.

Side note: IF (if, if) Your wall-outlet (110VAC) is secured by an fuse of 5 or 7 or 10 (or maybe 15) Ampere --- and IF You exercise care - You keep hands off - You only hold on the insulation of an Jumper-Wire: Worst case: The fuse securing the wall-outlet may blow.

Shall I write or shall I not write --- do I confuse You or do I not ? Well, I do write - see the JPG here - I want to check "my brown connecting wire showed in the left bottom corner in the JPG" --- You may want to test this way: Shown here in the JPG - the point to tip-on Your Jumper-Wire hooked-on at "fuse for Bank-Reset-Coil": The point to tip-on is "AT THE TRANSFORMER" --- I expect the Bank-Reset-Coil fires and so proves "my brown connecting wire" is good. If the Bank-Reset-Coil does not fire: "My brown connecting wire" is no good. Worst case: A fuse may blow. (((As You guarantee to hold the Jumper-Wire on its insulation))) Greetings Rolf

P.S. - IF You do "testing as mentioned in post-15": Yes I did mean to repeat the test with the Test-Light on the 24VAC side. (A goal of us is "we want to have 110VAC feeded to the primary side of the transformer" --- another goal is "we want to grab 24VAC on the secondary side of the transformer".)

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Hi Paul
thanks - You did AAA "I performed the first part of your test. I jumpered the red wire on the on/off switch to the red wire terminal (marked "this one "on the picture), then I plugged in and turned the power on: nothing blew." You also did BBB "Then I connected the test light (already connected to the s-relay) to the other end of the 15 amp fuse at the red/green wire and: no light."
Sad for us: "no light".
Look at the JPG here --- doing AAA You made an guaranteed connection "main power switch to transformer". See "my green wirings" --- see the "only not yet tested wiring" is the connecting wire "transformer to 'Bank-Reset-Coil-side-wire-white' ". Have the AAA-Jumper-wire permanent clipped-on - take another Jumper-Wire using it as "my orange drawing" shows - with this You make "guaranteed connection" on the last part of wiring on the 110VAC side. First do the "tip-on" - if no fuse blows: CLIP-on. Then do the 24VAC-Test-Light-Test again.

Your question in post-19 - 1) - first part: The Reset-Coil has two solder-lugs --- the "solder-lug connecting to the fuse" You have used earlyer - the other solder-lug has soldered-on "wire-of-color-in-thepin-white-as-well-wire-in-the-schematics-shown-white": I clue: YES.
Your question in post-19 - 1) - second part: Wire marked "A".
Your question in post-19 - 2): Yes I want You to keep the jumper connected. (((We use Jumper-Wires to guarantee "connection" when we see in the schematics a connection "not having switches" --- the wire in the pin may have an breakage inside the insulation - we can not see - we set a permanet jumper to guarantee connection))) Greetings Rolf

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Hi Paul
when in a pin a relay or other stuff should actuate - but it does not actuate: Somewhere is a "complete breakage" or an "partially to almost complete breakage" so when You (accidentally / by chance) move stuff at this place - You can make "connection" - the big question by now is: Can You reproduce the "partial success" ? Greetings Rolf

Hi Paul
great - You can reproduce the "partial success" - so reproduce it - You get the 6VAC (lights light up) and You get 24VAC --- the motor runs and runs and runs. The motor endlessly running is an fault - but it is a fault I much more like than an dubious, dangerous fault on 110VAC. See here the JPG - the symbol of the motor is on the left --- towards right are all switches that make the motor to run --- "outmost-right, the 'Motor-1-C' is an switch on the motor" --- all other switches are on a relay. Look in the schematics - list of relays - look in the pin - DOES*** one or more of these relays PULL*** while the motor is (faulty) running ?

DOES*** PULL***: It would be nice when You find the "faulty pulling" relay --- frustrating for us - it can happen and does sometimes happen: Relay(s) are not pulling - just an switch on one of these relays happens to be misadjusted - making connection - connection when relay is not pulling - but faulty connection to make the motor to run ...
BUT the first thing to look for - easy to see: DOES a relay of this list of relays faulty PULL ? Greetings Rolf

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Hi Paul
I do not see "pins in Your collection" - You only wrote in post-1 about buying this one pin --- Yes, some pins do hum a bit or maybe a bit more - usually on the inside of the coin-door - the so-called "Coin Lockout Coil" often hums (((I would like this goodie be called "Stop Coin-Lockout Coil" as this is how it functions))) - please write about "humming".

Toggle-off the pin, unplug the main power cord (Safety Reasons) - Locate the R-Hold-Relay (most likely down in the cabinet) - locate the H-Tilt-Hold-Relay (...) - locate the S-Start-Relay (...) --- practice a bit - may wear rubber gloves - never touch solder-lugs --- practice: Press the armature on each of these relays and let go - do this several times on each relay --- as You have toggled-off the pin: By now, of course "when You let go on the armature: armature goes back / returns".

Then plug-in, toggle-on - NOW (exercise care): Press the armature on the R-Hold-Relay and let go - question: Does the R-Relay stays pulling ?
Then press the armature on the H-Tilt-Hold-Relay and let go - question: Does the H-Relay stays pulling ?
Then press the armature on the S-Start-Relay and let go - question: What happens ? does the pin starts a new game - resetting the Score-Drums ?

"Press and let go on an armature" is: We simulate "Coil gets power - and pulls". Greetings Rolf

Hi Paul
I stumbled over https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/gtb-power-cord-hot-to-transformer-neutral-to-fuse-or-vice-versa#post-4210375 - an nice picture of the area Transformer and wire-white and returning line on the main power cord. Compare with "Your picture in Your post-19 (here)". Greetings Rolf

Hi Paul
I prefer the words "a relay stays pulling" (((as the Self-Hold-Circuitry is functioning))) --- to me "stick" is rather "at some time another switch in the Self-Hold-Circuitry on this relay opens so the relay should 'let go' --- but it faulty does not let go - it faulty sticks.

When we press the armature on a relay: We imitate "coil gets Initial-Current - coil pulls - moves armature and moves the switches - one of the moved switches is the Self-Hold-Switch - it closes -Self-Hold-Current can flow - coil pulls and pulls and pulls ... the relay stays pulling.

Good - the H-Relay stays pulling when You manually activate it --- how about the R-Relay ?

I am not happy with the solution Gottlieb made on the late EM-Pins like "Surfer" - for long periods of time the Q-Game-Over-Relay (is entitled to) stay(s) pulling.
We toggle-on the pin and the Q-Relay MUST pull-in and stay pulling. When we start a new game (You manually press the armature of S-Start-Relay: Stuff should happen --- what is Your "not much else" ? See the JPG in post-24 --- a switch on the S-Relay closing (as You press the armature): Switch closing makes the motor to run --- what is Your motor doing ?

Grumble - I forgot about the U-First-Ball-Relay --- the pin is toggled-off so the U-Relay (of course) is not pulling --- You then toggle-on the pin: U-Relay AND Q-Relay MUST pull-in and stay pulling --- in Your pin ?

Do the following and write about the reactions: You toggle-on the pin --- U-Relay and Q-Relay must pull-in and stay pulling - if they do not: Help with manually pressing the armatures - do they now stay pulling ? Then manually activate the R-Relay and the H-Relay - do they stay pulling ? If they do not: Help manually ... Then manually activate the S-Relay - it should pull-in and make the motor to run - S-Relay shall stay pulling for a while - AX-Relay should actuate. Greetings Rolf

Hi Paul
at the arcade-rooms times operators wanted to "punish" players beeing rude to the pins - Gottlieb made the H-Tilt-Hold-Relay --- a player shakes the pin (too much) - he is punished with an minor tilt - he looses "Ball in play" (((the T-Tilt-Relay pulls-in and so opens the Self-Hold-Switch on H-Relay so the "beeing steady pulling H-Relay looses current and let go))).
And when a player bangs the pin heavy: An weighted switch (Anti-Cheat-Switch / Slam-Tilt-Switch) opens - cuts Self-Hold-Circuitry on R-Relay - R-Relay let go and so closes a switch --- result is: Q-Game-Over-Relay pulls in --- THIS player get punished by loosing all the remaining balls of the play - he gets "Game-Over".

Once the R-Relay is activated: It must stay pulling, pulling, pulling - forever.
When the Motor runs and the S-Relay is pulling: DOES the AX-Relay actuate ? Greetings Rolf

Hi Paul
this is a good site http://www.pinwiki.com/wiki/ then http://www.pinwiki.com/wiki/index.php?title=EM_Repair
this is a good site http://www.pinrepair.com/ then http://www.pinrepair.com/em/index.htm and here http://www.pinrepair.com/em/index3.htm#axrelayvideo is a very helpful video about the AX-Relay. Time 1:27 to 1:42 Clay (?) manually activates and de-activates the AX-Relay (back and forth) --- at time 2:23 to 2:47 he starts a game. Later on in the video he shows how to adjust the AX-Relay. See (time 2:23 to 2:47) how the AX-Relay (AX-Coil pulls-in) moves at starting --- after a while when the resetting of Score-Drums and other stuff has been done: AX-Relay (AXR-, AX-RESET Coil pulls-in) moves back, resets.
Paul - in an former post You wrote +/- "cannot manually move the Ax-Relay back and forth". To proceed in troubleshooting Your pin for starting a new game: We NEED the following: You manually move it - the armature stays in this position --- You manually move other direction - the armature stays in "this other, moved back" position --- just like Clay is showing it )1:27 to 1:42) in the video. Of course I hope that when we let current flow to the coils: Relay actuates "on its own" - we can accept for a whilethe: AX-Relay stays stable in a position when manually moved. Please write about the AX-Relay.

In my PDF I show the Gottlieb-Player-Unit - it actually is "Players-and-Balls stepping Unit" - You stand behind the backbox and look towards the player - during start-up and during play the bakelite disk is (at times) stepped clockwise. Look in the PDF and in Your pin "along the axis towards the player" - the last cam is black and has ONLY ONE tooth. When You move the plunger on the player-unit and let go: You do a step on the unit --- and another one - and another one --- You do 30 to 32 steps and You have made an revolution of the bakelite disk. Do step on the unit - step and step - watch the black cam --- in one position the "one and only tooth on the black cam": LIFTS the switchblades --- THIS is the so-called Home-Position also called Zero-Position also is the position for "pin is ready so Player-1 can play Ball-1". When You have reached this Home-Position: Do about ten steps more and the Player-Unit is in a position "OK, good, helpful for to start a new game". There is more to the PDF - please write about "can step the Player-Unit - can reach Home-Position". Greetings Rolf

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