(Topic ID: 302669)
Linked Games
Strange World
Gottlieb, 1978
Topic Gallery
Barnstable, MA
Started applying the purple graphics today. With the front panel, Jeff recommends cutting a blank for the opening in order for the stencil to lay flat. This worked out perfectly. I'll let it sit for several days before doing the other side.
IMG_1599 (resized).jpgIMG_1600 (resized).jpgIMG_1602 (resized).jpgIMG_1604 (resized).jpgQuoted from paulace:That's purdy... How did you do the flecking?
The black splatter was done by a "splatter brush", and thinned out Model Master black gloss lacquer. The splatter brush gives perfect results, but you need to practice a little before jumping in with it. I've done a couple machines with it thus far and I like the look.
For webbing, I thin out webbing paint and use an air brush attached to my pancake compressor.
Quoted from paulace:I like the fine splatter you got on that cabinet. I use some sort of stiff-bristled brush, but I'm not happy with the dots - a little too big.
I bought these on Amazon, Kemper Spatter Brush for $10 each. Great to have!
1 week later
Quoted from Playdium:Cabinet paint work is complete. Now onto the mechanics of the machine. Waiting for a Wade playfield.
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Great work! Are those the correct cabinet colors? Mine is in terrible shape. I will be doing the same to mine soon. Please let me know what colors and type of paint you used?
Quoted from Adm927:Great work! Are those the correct cabinet colors? Mine is in terrible shape. I will be doing the same to mine soon. Please let me know what colors and type of paint you used?
The colors I used are very close to original. The problem with the pink color is at this age it has faded so much. But the original color was more like a magenta, and that is what I used. I'll post the paint info.
Here is a picture of the original color that I found under the door.
IMG_1341 (resized).jpghttps://www.amazon.com/Kemper-1198-Spatter-Brush/dp/B001DUT0S4/ref=sr_1_2
Is this the spatter brush?
Quoted from hjh632:amazon.com link »
Is this the spatter brush?
Yes, that's the one. I bought a couple of those. But practice with it to learn the technique. A lot of paint on the brush at close range will give larger droplets, and the reverse at a farther distance. And apply it from the side rather than being on top to prevent drips.
The paint I used is as follows.
Initially after sanding and filling, I use Zinser Cover Oil Base Primer. I'll sand that so that it's flat and maybe a second coat and sand again.
Then for base color I used Rust-O-Leum Satin White Oil Base.
Next was the splatter paint. Model Master Gloss Black Lacquer thinned out until it lays flat. (Practice on a piece of scrap that is primed)
And for the graphics, Rust-O-Leum 2X Magenta and Poppy Red Satin. There are several Magenta shades so I posted the item number for this one.
IMG_1650 (resized).jpgIMG_1651 (resized).jpgIMG_1652 (resized).jpg 10 months later
Quoted from Playdium:Wade's new playfield just arrived.
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One thing I found with my Wizard project, I needed to dremel the pop base holes to allow a new base to fit freely. Curious to see if these are the same.
Are you going to get it cleared?
Quoted from pinhead52:One thing I found with my Wizard project, I needed to dremel the pop base holes to allow a new base to fit freely. Curious to see if these are the same.
Are you going to get it cleared?
No, $700 for clear coating would blow up my budget on this machine. I think Wade's finish will be fine.
This one that I am restoring has an interesting process. I bought the head in an antique auction because the glass was so nice. For quite a long time I was looking for a basket case that I could put it to good use.
Then I was contacted by someone that had a cabinet but no head. It's coming together nicely. The glass is actually a "Sample" machine glass dated 1977.
That's a cool story. I had a chance to work on one locally, did alot of work on the playfield and made it look so nice the guy will never sell it now. If I had it to do over, I would have not made it look so nice... Couldn't help myself.
Quoted from Playdium:Just finished the side rails. These were pretty beat up, but sanding them really made a difference. I start with 120 grit and work up to 150, 220, 800, 1000, 1500, 2000, then polish with Mothers Aluminum Polish. Use long sanding strokes as you move along.
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just wondering if you sanded by hand or used a palm sander. cabinet/head look great!
1 week later
Quoted from pinhead52:Buy new stainless screws... #6 3/8s for rollovers 1/2 inch for other hardware. HD has it on the shelf
Good tip! Do you reuse the old buss wire? Mine looks ok but I do plan on replacing the lamp sockets.
Quoted from Playdium:Good tip! Do you reuse the old buss wire? Mine looks ok but I do plan on replacing the lamp sockets.
I like to use new braid. I lay down the rollovers, sockets and new braid. And I actually lift the old braid with the sockets, helps to keep the sockets organized and then bring over the package and then transfer to the new sockets/braid.
And when you install the pop bumper plate that the ring rod holes dont completely line up. I use a drill bit the same size as the plate hole (with plate screwed down) to ream out the hole to ensure no binding...
Quoted from pinhead52:One thing I found with my Wizard project, I needed to dremel the pop base holes to allow a new base to fit freely. Curious to see if these are the same.
Are you going to get it cleared?
Yup, the holes do not line up for the pop bumper back plate. I will have to gently ream these out.
IMG_3045 (resized).jpgQuoted from Playdium:Yup, the holes do not line up for the pop bumper back plate. I will have to gently ream these out.
[quoted image]
Tisck tisck you've got a mount screw in a threaded hole for the 3 footed pop coil bracket
Hey, has anybody found a good matching grey paint (I probably should ask Wade)? Occasionally if the existing playfield stick holes pull the stick to far off of line I drill my own holes and fill the old. And need a little paint touchup.
Quoted from Playdium:Over the years I find that I enjoy the restoration work more than actual game play.
Similar but yea, I took 160 hours, 4 weeks to rewire and retheme a NightRider into an Evel Knievel, lead by lead, schematic on the wall, marked each segment in green with new color number once completed. Strangely satisfying.
Quoted from Playdium:Ken, Just want to say thanks for the tip for using the Minwax Wipe On Poly for the rails. They turned out very nice.
Yea. works great and drys under an hour. Buddy of mine ( AvidListener ) couldnt find WOP and used standard thick poly on a set of rails... we sanded them down and did it again.
1 week later
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