Hello friends,

Looking for help with my Gottlieb stock car from 1970. Almost got it all fixed up just one small issue. On the startup the Armature for the sequence bank reset does not fire. If #11 is closed it will fire (which closes and activates when all numbers are out and ball has been played - which is correct) but does not fire on start of game to reset all the number switches and relays. According to the schematic the #11 should be open on start. IMG_8474 (resized).JPG Any help would be appreciated.

I tried a scan this time.

scan (resized).jpg

It does fire the main reset on the control bank, just not the sequence bank reset coil (Red connected and White connected). Only when the switch #11 is closed on the control bank it will fire. But #11 should only be closed when lights are all off (sequence is complete). This would make the sequence bank reset coil fire. It should also fire at start of game to reset all lights which it doesn't.

I almost think something should make the number #11 relay to switch on causing it to drop in the reset sequence closing that #11 main switch which would then activate the sequence reset bank coil.

HowardR I've updated with a scan, seems to look better than a picture of it. I'll have to purchase a new schematic, it takes several weeks from Marco's pinball to ship me a new one due to customs and the way they ship through a third party to Canada. Great company to deal with just takes time! Any suggestions to pay for a downloadable copy?

currieddog I hear what your saying, I'm going to look into that today. If the "wow" is lit meaning it's in the bonus and #11 relay is kicked then it resets when it hits the ball return. So maybe that ties into start of game as well. I will get a proper full scan done too of the schematic in the next day or so. Thanks for the ideas!

SB1 and SB2 all are functioning as per the schematic.

2018-3-13-8-32-5 (resized).jpg

Make/Break are good on the DB, all motor contacts are testing correctly.

rolf_martin_062 Appreciate the help! Same to the rest of you boys!
I followed everything through and tested connectivity and everything tests perfect except "R" Make/Brake - Red/Green to Red/White - If its opens I get connectivity if its closed I get connectivity. Not sure why this is... Don't think it should...
image1 (resized).jpeg

rolf_martin_062 This is awesome, thank you so much for the amazing and clear drawings. I'll test these tonight/tomorrow.
Thought/question - HowardR I love the idea of the pin. What if I hook that up to a telecom toner and set it to continuity so it shows the LED light going on and off. That should give me the light. IN05152-501 (resized).jpg

Played around a little today with a few other things and seem as though #11 doesn't do it's job and ties into the same issue. When all lights are out it doesn't drop to "wow" either or activate the #2,7,4,9 like it should either.

Cheers everyone! I will get back with my results/fix/Hopefully excited to be done response.....

rolf_martin_062 I did all the tests with a light and pin and got these results;

AA - light remained ON the entire time once I added power to the machine. - Is this incorrect? It does get brighter when started vs when power first on.
BB - On, off, ON
CC - On, off, On, off, ON
DD - Off, on, OFF

I added a few test -
DB yellow wire sw to Red/Green back on motor sw 1C - off, on, off - This looks correct to me
#11 yellow wire sw to Red/Green back on motor sw 1C - off, on, off - This looks correct to me as well.

rolf_martin_062 Just wanted to address the last question from you and my last statement. The number #11 relay;
If I manually drop the #11 (dropping mechanism(don't know the term)) that closes the switch behind it. (red / black wires) and the armature (red / white wires) does fire.
How #11 should work is if all lights go out 1-10 either from the pass through switches or by the spinner the #11 should drop and create "WOW" and light 2,7,4,9 lights up (with the chances to add more balls). I'm able to get all lights out however the #11 switches/relay (not sure) doesn't seem to react and create wow when lit. I know this use to work... If I manually drop that #11 and the ball hits the ball return it does fire the armature (red/White wires). Thinking I need to follow all my jumpers through today on the numbers.

I did double check BB and CC and that seems to run the way I wrote it, has an extra sequence of OFF, ON.

*all the test I ran I ran with a test-light.

DD - is ON for only a flicker (brief time) - like when the switch connects for a less then a second.

Good day rolf_martin_062 - My tests for FF did not activate the #11 relay. If I put the jumper from Red/white on the EE (small jumper) it does trip the relay #11.... which I looked at that switch.... and guess what.... FAIL. NOT CLOSED correctly.

BIG BIG BIG BIG THANK YOU!!!! this was my problem. That switch has to be closed from yellow to jumper to relay (blue/red) this was a very finicky connection and tested fine with continuity and looked closed 100%.... The pin and light defiantly helped with testing of HowardR to notice the lose connection.

Now time to clean this bad boy up and play a game.

If I can help anyone out every please don't hesitate to message me!