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(Topic ID: 276561)

TECH - Gottlieb 'Spirit of 76'


By meSz

88 days ago



Topic Stats

  • 102 posts
  • 6 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 9 days ago by fredsmythson
  • Topic is favorited by 3 Pinsiders

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There are 102 posts in this topic. You are on page 1 of 3.
#1 88 days ago

Upon pressing the start button score reels go back to zero but the score motor continues to run. In looking at the switch stacks, specifically 1C it appears all are gaped properly. In looking at the score reels it also appears they're working accordingly. Any further insight is much appreciated. By now means am I proficient "tech" so the more Dummies terms you can put it in .... more appreciated!

Also, need two new Tent Style Lane Guides, if anyone can tell me what was the original style used and part number? I've seen transparent white, opaque white and even other colors. I know it can be preference but looking for what was original and the part number.

#2 88 days ago

Do you have the manual? One of the first few pages will list the startup sequence.

I could figure it out from the schematic, but there are too many things that happen during startup for me to list them all so I'll start with this:

I'm guessing that the AX relay coil with the Blue&Orange wire activates, but its coil with the Yellow&Black wire doesn't.
Also, the Player unit (bottom center in the backbox) probably isn't finding its way to its home position where the P5B switch opens.

pasted_image (resized).png
#3 88 days ago
Quoted from HowardR:

Do you have the manual? One of the first few pages will list the startup sequence.
I could figure it out from the schematic, but there are too many things that happen during startup for me to list them all so I'll start with this:
I'm guessing that the AX relay coil with the Blue&Orange wire activates, but its coil with the Yellow&Black wire doesn't.
Also, the Player unit (bottom center in the backbox) probably isn't finding its way to its home position where the P5B switch opens.
[quoted image]

Howard appreciate the post. Like always trying to help a local guy out here so the more possible scenarios anyone can provide the better as I will be heading back over his house this weekend to try and figure this out for him!

#4 88 days ago

I've got the manual with the start up sequence. It at my moms, but I should be able to grab it tomorrow. I think my AX relay needed a little adjusting a little while ago, I forget the symptoms though.

#5 88 days ago

Ok so that's two suggesting the AX relay and yeah looking at the schematics, which I am not super proficient at, I do see it's the BL/OR wire. Of I'am looking at the schematics correctly this AX goes to 1D (BR/Red) on the Motor ????

#6 88 days ago

PM me if you need me to scan this for you. Looks pretty good though....

1599164524122290804439 (resized).jpg
#7 88 days ago
Quoted from jaytrem:

PM me if you need me to scan this for you. Looks pretty good though....
[quoted image]

I'm dealing with a Pioneer with similar issues. Thank you for the startup sequence

#8 87 days ago
Quoted from MeNaCeFiRe:

I'm dealing with a Pioneer with similar issues. Thank you for the startup sequence

No problem, I will be scanning it, so if you want a copy let me know.

#9 87 days ago
Quoted from jaytrem:

No problem, I will be scanning it, so if you want a copy let me know.

Got one for Pioneer? Lol
There's no Z1

#10 87 days ago

Roller Coaster is 2 player. Maybe a match???

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#11 87 days ago

Here's the Pioneer startup page

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1 month later
#12 38 days ago

Been a while since posting as been in and out of town but altos made arrangements with the owner to bring the machine to me. So now I have it in my possession I am trying to workout the issues.

1. The Score Motor continues to run after all score reels return to zero. I did find that the Brake Switch is broken off. I could swear though that I read somewhere the Brake Switch is not really needed????

2. The machine reflects TILT even after starting the games. Looking at the TILT mechs I am not seeing one out of wack!

3. No lights on the playfield at all!

Appreciate the input.

On a side note......this machine is super clean for its age!

0BDA50F1-43D7-4F5F-9A12-9D2B6FDD3CB0 (resized).jpeg
#13 38 days ago

My brake switch is also broken. Machine currently works fine (trying not to jinx myself).

There should be 2 slam switches in the head. That turned out to be my issue when I bought my machine. Probably would have figured it out quicker if I realized there were 2 in there. Can't hurt to take a look at them.

Looks nice and clean indeed!

#14 38 days ago
Quoted from jaytrem:

My brake switch is also broken. Machine currently works fine (trying not to jinx myself).
There should be 2 slam switches in the head. That turned out to be my issue when I bought my machine. Probably would have figured it out quicker if I realized there were 2 in there. Can't hurt to take a look at them.
Looks nice and clean indeed!

Thanks for the post Jay? Yeah I did find the one tilt switch (yellow arrow in picture) but not a second???

I also found an orange/white wire (red arrow) that is twisted together w/electric tape on it. Anyone w/ schematics know what this is for?

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#15 38 days ago

As of now the TILT issue seems to be the major issue as I just turned the game on, pressed start and the score motor did stop. Game still reflects TILT and the playfiled lights are all out.

#16 38 days ago

For the tilt issue, during normal operation when the machine is powered on, it will be in tilt mode with the playfield lights turned off...

What actually happens when you try to start a game? You push the credit/start button, the score motor starts, the score reels reset, and then everything stops and the machine goes back to tilt mode? When the game starts to reset, do the playfield lights turn on?

There are two tilt relays on this machine - a tilt relay and a tilt hold relay. The tilt relay is connected to the tilt switches. When one of the tilt switches close/open it will energize the tilt relay. This, in turn, will close a switch on the tilt relay and energize the tilt hold relay. T relay is the tilt relay and I think H relay is the tilt hold relay. Check the following:

T relay - manually operate the relay and make sure the switch contacts are clean and adjusted properly; after a game reset, is the relay energized?
H relay - after a game reset, is the H relay energized?
AX relay - make sure the switch contacts are clean and adjusted properly

#17 38 days ago
Quoted from fredsmythson:

What actually happens when you try to start a game? You push the credit/start button, the score motor starts, the score reels reset, and then everything stops and the machine goes back to tilt mode? When the game starts to reset, do the playfield lights turn on?

When I turn the machine on it's already in TILT mode. I can press Start and it will reset reels to zero and score motor is, now, stopping. However, at no time do the playfield lights come on.

If I move the H relay the TILT light goes off and pf lights come on.

Neither T or H are energized.

and I just found a solid yellow wire on the P relay is off!

As always Fred appreciate your input!

#18 37 days ago

P relay would be the add player unit relay... Looks like the H relay coil is not being energized. Make sure all the switch contacts are clean and adjusted properly on the T relay and AX relay...

#19 37 days ago
Quoted from fredsmythson:

P relay would be the add player unit relay... Looks like the H relay coil is not being energized. Make sure all the switch contacts are clean and adjusted properly on the T relay and AX relay...

Interesting turn of events ...... I checked H, T and AX relays and nothing really jumped out. The switches were pretty damn clean but I cleaned them anyhow. I also attached the yellow wire back to the P relay. Game is now out of TILT, pf lights up and game is playing!

I think issue might have been related to the lugs being bent and possibly touching???

So I know the AX relay stays energized but is it common that it gets so hot? I mean hot enough you don't want to touch the metal housing/bracket?

BUT as we're aware once you fix one issue it typically brings new issues to light. I am now seeing these issues:
1. Game is not ending after 5 balls. It just keeps on going.
2. The Ball in play lights aren't work nor are the Player 1-4 lights (I pressed the Start 4 times).
3. The switches behind the rubbers as well as the switch in the shooter lane aren't registering.
4. When the ball goes into the kickout hole, the ball kicks out but the coil is firing 3 times after the ball is gone.

#20 37 days ago

The AX relay coil can get hot, but it shouldn't be burning hot. There might be a resistance issue with the coil - then the coil would need to be replaced. You can check the resistance of a coil with a multimeter.

https://www.flippers.com/coil-resistance.html

1. Game is not ending after 5 balls. It just keeps on going. - Check the player unit. Manually operate and rotate the player unit to make sure to rotates smoothly and "clicks" into each position.

2. The Ball in play lights aren't working nor are the Player 1-4 lights (I pressed the Start 4 times). - Check the Q relay. Make sure the switches are clean and adjusted properly.

3. The switches behind the rubbers as well as the switch in the shooter lane aren't registering. - Clean and re-seat the playfield Jones plugs that connect to the main board and the backbox.

4. When the ball goes into the kickout hole, the ball kicks out but the coil is firing 3 times after the ball is gone. - Check the adjustment of the contact switch under the kickout hole; check the G relay switches for the proper adjustment.

#21 36 days ago

Didn't have a lot of time today to look at the machine but here's what I did find:

Quoted from fredsmythson:

The AX relay coil can get hot, but it shouldn't be burning hot. There might be a resistance issue with the coil - then the coil would need to be replaced. You can check the resistance of a coil with a multimeter.

So according to the site you provided (thnx) AX should have 14.9 ohms....this is reflecting 3.1! Place on the order list!

Quoted from fredsmythson:

1. Game is not ending after 5 balls. It just keeps on going. - Check the player unit. Manually operate and rotate the player unit to make sure to rotates smoothly and "clicks" into each position.

Done and it is but game is still not stopping after 5 balls now will game add more then one player.

Quoted from fredsmythson:

2. The Ball in play lights aren't working nor are the Player 1-4 lights (I pressed the Start 4 times). - Check the Q relay. Make sure the switches are clean and adjusted properly.

Done with no change.

Quoted from fredsmythson:

3. The switches behind the rubbers as well as the switch in the shooter lane aren't registering. - Clean and re-seat the playfield Jones plugs that connect to the main board and the backbox.

For this I cleaned the Jones Plugs that go from the pf to the backbox .... switches now work!

Quoted from fredsmythson:

4. When the ball goes into the kick out hole, the ball kicks out but the coil is firing 3 times after the ball is gone. - Check the adjustment of the contact switch under the kick out hole; check the G relay switches for the proper adjustment.

I checked the switch in the kick out hole and it looked good so I cleaned it anyhow and I manually closed the switch and then held them apart. The kick out is still firing off 3 or so time too many. It would appear the issue is in the relay switch bank! I then looked at the G relay cleaned the switches and double checked the gapping to no avail. The one switch in the back I could not clean as it's too far back but those two wires are not related to the kick out. Thinking I am going to take the bank of switches apart and clean them really good, make sure they're gapped properly and ensure the lugs aren't touching anywhere. More to come on this on!

#22 35 days ago

I'm working from a Royal Flush so the wiring should be very similar for non-playfield scoring circuitry.

1. Game is not ending after 5 balls. It just keeps on going. - Check the BX relay circuit. Check score motor switch 1C (brown/black wire) and O relay switch (brown/black wire).

2. The Ball in play lights aren't working nor are the Player 1-4 lights (I pressed the Start 4 times). - Two switches are used to send power to the ball in play lights and the 1-4 player lights, which are the AX relay switch and the Q relay switch. When the game is reset, AX switch with the black/red wire should be closed and Q switch with the orange/black wire should be closed.

4. When the ball goes into the kick out hole, the ball kicks out but the coil is firing 3 times after the ball is gone. - If the coil is firing 3 times, this means power is being sent to the coil from one of the score motor switches. The normally open switches for the hole kicker relay are G relay switch and score motor 4C switch. The normally closed switches are X relay switch and BX relay switch. Check all these circuit switches for possible issues.

I would recommend cleaning all of the Jones plugs and Jones plug connectors in the machine to make sure they are making a good electrical connection.

#23 35 days ago
Quoted from fredsmythson:

I'm working from a Royal Flush so the wiring should be very similar for non-playfield scoring circuitry.
1. Game is not ending after 5 balls. It just keeps on going. - Check the BX relay circuit. Check score motor switch 1C (brown/black wire) and O relay switch (brown/black wire).
2. The Ball in play lights aren't working nor are the Player 1-4 lights (I pressed the Start 4 times). - Two switches are used to send power to the ball in play lights and the 1-4 player lights, which are the AX relay switch and the Q relay switch. When the game is reset, AX switch with the black/red wire should be closed and Q switch with the orange/black wire should be closed.
4. When the ball goes into the kick out hole, the ball kicks out but the coil is firing 3 times after the ball is gone. - If the coil is firing 3 times, this means power is being sent to the coil from one of the score motor switches. The normally open switches for the hole kicker relay are G relay switch and score motor 4C switch. The normally closed switches are X relay switch and BX relay switch. Check all these circuit switches for possible issues.
I would recommend cleaning all of the Jones plugs and Jones plug connectors in the machine to make sure they are making a good electrical connection.

We'll do...thanks! I placed an order with PBR as I found 4 coils to be pretty fried and not having close to the correct resistance. I've been going through all the switches and cleaning them as well as checking the coils for proper resistance.

So over the next few days, while waiting for the PBR order, I will look into cleaning the plugs as well as checking everything you noted!

more to come

#24 31 days ago

and one step ahead and 6 back .....

Replaced the bad coils for the relays. Took apart the score motor and cleaned all the gunk off the motor, cleaned all the switches and then properly gaped them. Went through all the switches on the relay banks and ensured they were properly gaped. Cleaned all the Jones plugs. Plugged machine in and turned on to find it in TILT and no lights on the pf, like before. Upon pressing the start button (has credits on it) ....... Nothing! I manually close the Start Relay ... nothing. I manually close the TILT relay and it does turn off the light behind TILT in the backglass and turns on the pf!

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#25 31 days ago
Quoted from meSz:

Upon pressing the start button (has credits on it) ....... Nothing!

If pressing the Replay button doesn't activate the Replay Button relay (V), Inspect and diagnose this circuit with Alligator clip jumper wires
http://www.planetimming.com/Pinball/troubleshooting/EM%20Troubleshooting.pdf
http://www.pinrepair.com/em/index3.htm#features
Example of a pinsider actually doing this https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/red-baron-tech-question#post-5858156

pasted_image (resized).png
#26 31 days ago

Manually pushing the start relay should get the score motor running. This score motor circuit will have a bounce switch, the start relay switch and possibly a service jack plug. Make sure the start relay switches are clean and adjusted properly, and check for a service jack plug near the score motor.

#27 30 days ago
Quoted from fredsmythson:

Manually pushing the start relay should get the score motor running. This score motor circuit will have a bounce switch, the start relay switch and possibly a service jack plug. Make sure the start relay switches are clean and adjusted properly, and check for a service jack plug near the score motor.

I obtained schematics but no means am I proficient in reading them (understatement, I suck!). If I am correct the power to the score motor comes off the motor service jack (cleaned it up) and goes to the switch 1C bank? All switches were cleaned and gapped properly. I then looked at the switches on Start Relay (at this point all switches in the lower cabinet have been cleaned) and all switches are open when the coil is not energized and will be closed when coil is energized correct?

I apparently did something as the machine, if you recall, was working (had issues but was working) before I went in and started to clean all the switches!

6EC5A62D-7C1F-43A6-86BA-F6E40633B51F (resized).jpeg

Quoted from HowardR:

If pressing the Replay button doesn't activate the Replay Button relay (V), Inspect and diagnose this circuit with Alligator clip jumper wires
http://www.planetimming.com/Pinball/troubleshooting/EM%20Troubleshooting.pdf
http://www.pinrepair.com/em/index3.htm#features
Example of a pinsider actually doing this https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/red-baron-tech-question#post-5858156

Appreciate to post and sharing the above URLs. In the tutorial it states "In this case you manually advance a 1-player game to the 5th ball". Excuse my ignorance but how do I go about getting the machine to the 5th ball?

THANKS AGAIN for the assistance!

#28 29 days ago

First, see if power is getting to the score motor. Power on the machine and then manually close the one switch on the start relay with the yellow/red wire and red/white wire. This will make the score motor run. If nothing happens, then it might be a problem with one of the three switches / connections in the circuit:

Bounce switch - red/green wire and red/white wire
S relay switch - yellow/red wire and red/white wire
Score motor service jack - yellow/red wire

Also, check the 15 amp fuse and fuse block in the circuit with the red wire and the red/green wire.

#29 29 days ago
Quoted from meSz:

Appreciate to post and sharing the above URLs. In the tutorial it states "In this case you manually advance a 1-player game to the 5th ball". Excuse my ignorance but how do I go about getting the machine to the 5th ball?
THANKS AGAIN for the assistance!

That step is for diagnosing a different problem than you have. So no need for you to actually do that.

#30 29 days ago
Quoted from fredsmythson:

First, see if power is getting to the score motor. Power on the machine and then manually close the one switch on the start relay with the yellow/red wire and red/white wire. This will make the score motor run. If nothing happens, then it might be a problem with one of the three switches / connections in the circuit:
Bounce switch - red/green wire and red/white wire
S relay switch - yellow/red wire and red/white wire
Score motor service jack - yellow/red wire
Also, check the 15 amp fuse and fuse block in the circuit with the red wire and the red/green wire.

Okay so I know this .... I am not getting power to the motor (Score Motor (SM)). What I did, since I only two hands, is took jumpers and hooked it up to a light socket with a bulb in it. Held it to 9v battery and the light comes on. So when I put the jumpers onto the lugs of the score motor and close the S Relay Switch nothing happens. So I moved to the S Relay Switch itself and clipped the jumpers onto the lugs of the switch and nothing. So it appears there's no power going to the switch itself so problem has to be further back then the Start Relay?

I also checked all the fuses on the board and they're good.

If it helps, the coils I replaced were H, Q, U an AX.

(after reading this post back I now realize I should've just attached the alligator clips to my meter )

Quoted from HowardR:

Appreciate to post and sharing the above URLs. In the tutorial it states "In this case you manually advance a 1-player game to the 5th ball". Excuse my ignorance but how do I go about getting the machine to the 5th ball?
THANKS AGAIN for the assistance!
That step is for diagnosing a different problem than you have. So no need for you to actually do that.

Thanks for trying to help!

#31 29 days ago

Power off the machine. Attach one end of a jumper wire to the 15 amp fuse block (red/green wire). Power on the machine. Touch the other end of the jumper wire to the score motor service jack input (on position). Score motor should start running.

Power off the machine. Then, with the jumper wire still attached to the 15 amp fuse block, manually close the switch on the S relay with yellow/red wire and red/white wire (temporarily adjust the switch to the closed position or clip the switch to the closed position). This will create a "closed" circuit for the score motor. Power on the machine. Check the other switches in the circuit with the other end of the jumper wire:

1st check - S relay switch - wire lug with yellow/red wire
2nd check - S relay switch - wire lug with red/white wire
3rd check - bounce switch - wire lug with red/white wire
4th check - bounce switch - wire lug with red/green wire

When you touch the jumper wire to one of theses switch lugs and the score motor does not run, then you'll know where the circuit connection problem is located.

#32 29 days ago
Quoted from fredsmythson:

Power off the machine. Attach one end of a jumper wire to the 15 amp fuse block (red/green wire). Power on the machine. Touch the other end of the jumper wire to the score motor service jack input (on position). Score motor should start running.

Ok so here in lies the issue as when I jump red/green (15a fuse block) to yellow/red (motor service jack) motor does not run. What am I missing here as I had to of knocked a switch out of wack or something when I went through all the switches on the relay banks and score motor and cleaned them as the Score Motor was working prior to this!
80F287C6-826F-4F7E-94EF-71AB0D317C80 (resized).jpeg

#33 29 days ago

At this point, when you used the jumper wire at the fuse block, you created a closed circuit without switches:

transformer > fuse block > service jack > score motor > transformer

With the jumper wire connected to the fuse block, I would confirm you have voltage at the following test points using a multimeter:

transformer - red wire
fuse block - red wire
fuse block - red/green wire
service jack input - input connector - yellow/red wire
service jack plug - blue wire?
score motor - positive wire lug

There also might be a ground issue. You can use a jumper wire on the negative score motor wire lug with the black wire and connect the other side of the jumper wire to the black wire at the transformer.

Is the score motor stuck? Try to manually rotate the score motor disc to see if it will turn and activate the score motor.

#34 28 days ago

So back to my original thought of something having to be obvious that I was missing .......
46195A18-9360-466D-BA49-90D441A10049 (resized).jpeg

So the red wire (red arrow) apparently came off at some point when I was cleaning all the switches! When I looked at the transformer visually checking it, it looked as though it was on the transformer but it was just sitting there not connected to anything! If I am correct the red wire goes to the second lug on the top of the transformer (circled in yellow)? Want to confirm so I don't cause more issues!

#35 28 days ago

There should be a label on the transformer that shows the voltage of each transformer lug. You're looking for the 25 volt connection. You can also look for solder "witness marks'' on the wire and the wire lug to see if the solder break is similar. Or measure the voltage at the transformer lug with a multimeter - should be around 25 volts AC...

#36 28 days ago
Quoted from fredsmythson:

There should be a label on the transformer that shows the voltage of each transformer lug. You're looking for the 25 volt connection. You can also look for solder "witness marks'' on the wire and the wire lug to see if the solder break is similar. Or measure the voltage at the transformer lug with a multimeter - should be around 25 volts AC...

The lug marked High and Normal are reflecting around 22.9v. Hard to tell from the solder break as it was poorly soldered. Both lugs have remnants of solder in them.
24113AB4-D88F-4127-92F2-9C719B9B036B (resized).jpeg

I did pull up a picture on IPDB https://www.ipdb.org/showpic.pl?id=2293&picno=74938&zoom=1 and it appears the red wire is on the second lug (NORMAL) but not the clearest picture!

#37 28 days ago

Just found this so ...
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/gottlieb-transformer-high-and-normal-tap

So technically you can use either lug.

#38 28 days ago

So now I have the Score Motor working again. Also, I now have the Ball In Play lights (well at least the 1 is lit) and the Player 1 light is lit but its back in TILT. Can someone confirm that the tilt switches on the coin door, by the score motor, on the underside of the playfiled and the one in the backbox should all be closed and the tilt bob and the tilt mech with the pinball in it should be open and will put the machine in TILT only if the "switch" is closed? So 4 Tilt switches are closed and 2 are opened when the machine is operating??

The game started up, upon initially turning it on, but after starting up it went in and is stuck in TILT. I can't add credits to it or anything else.

#39 28 days ago

The switches that are closed are usually bounce switches that cut power to the machine when they open. The tilt switches are open and when a tilt switch is closed, it will send power to the tilt relay, which will put the machine in tilt mode. Your machine should have 2 or 3 tilt switches. Find the tilt relay on the schematic and then follow the circuit to the tilt relay switches and you'll see a group of tilt switches. When the machine is powered on, it will be in tilt mode - tilt lamp on in backglass, no playfield lights...

#40 28 days ago

So four slam tilt switches are closed. D59C8AF1-8949-40BB-BD57-7DD1BC460717 (resized).jpeg

Then the tilt bob
886CCD18-F6CD-4FD2-9005-1A60BD974B61 (resized).jpeg

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#41 28 days ago

The schematic shows there are 3 tilt switches, which are normally open. Tilt switches will have an orange/white/red wire and a red/yellow wire. The first photo of the slam/bounce tilt switch looks like it's mis-adjusted.

What happens when you press the credit/reset button?

Power on the machine - backbox GI is on; tilt light is on; no lights on playfield
Press the credit/reset button - machine starts the reset process; score motor starts; score reels reset to zero, etc
Ball kicks to shooter lane
Then what happens???

When the machine goes into tilt mode, do the playfield lights turn off and the tilt light turns on? Or does the whole machine briefly power off and then turns on into tilt mode?

#42 28 days ago
Quoted from meSz:

The game started up, upon initially turning it on, but after starting up it went in and is stuck in TILT. I can't add credits to it or anything else.

If the 2nd Coin Chute switch doesn't activate the 2nd Chute relay (W), Inspect and diagnose this circuit with Alligator clip jumper wires
http://www.planetimming.com/Pinball/troubleshooting/EM%20Troubleshooting.pdf
http://www.pinrepair.com/em/index3.htm#features
Example of a pinsider actually doing this https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/red-baron-tech-question#post-5858156

pasted_image (resized).png
#43 28 days ago

Ok turned on machine again went straight into tilt. Looked at the fuses and noticed the 15a 25v fuse was blown (red/green). Replaced it and game started up, motor ran but all of a sudden all the lights on the pf starting going dim so I shut it off. Appears like something is either grounding out or maybe me putting the red wire onto the HIGH lug, I should've put on the NORMAL??

#44 28 days ago

I swapped over to the NORMAL lug and once again the game will start but after I manually press a few switches the lights on the pf start to flicker/go dim.

Also noticed that when I hit the switch in the shooter lane it's not registering.

Quoted from HowardR:

If the 2nd Coin Chute switch doesn't activate the 2nd Chute relay (W), Inspect and diagnose this circuit with Alligator clip jumper wires
http://www.planetimming.com/Pinball/troubleshooting/EM%20Troubleshooting.pdf
http://www.pinrepair.com/em/index3.htm#features
Example of a pinsider actually doing this https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/red-baron-tech-question#post-5858156
[quoted image]

Howard thanks for jumping in. So now I am not in full TILT mod but obviously onto other issue(s).

Again guys, appreciate the posts and dumbing it down for me. I took this machine on as a something to clean and polish the pf up for the guy. I know it had an issue but wasn't thinking it would be this much! Find with the EMs once you fix one issue it uncovers 2 others! Trying to learn more about EMs so again .... thnx!

#45 28 days ago
Quoted from meSz:

the lights on the pf start to flicker/go dim

Check this switch on the Tilt Hold relay (H)

For a switch to work 3 things are necessary:
1) When open, there should be a small space between the contact points (duh)
2) When closing, the long blade's contact point should push the short blade's contact point enough to move the short blade
3) The contact points should be clean, which they usually will be if #2 is happening

pasted_image (resized).png
#46 27 days ago
Quoted from HowardR:

Check this switch on the Tilt Hold relay (H)
For a switch to work 3 things are necessary:
1) When open, there should be a small space between the contact points (duh)
2) When closing, the long blade's contact point should push the short blade's contact point enough to move the short blade
3) The contact points should be clean, which they usually will be if #2 is happening
[quoted image]

Okay went thru H and re-gapped the switches (contacts on switches were already cleaned). In doing this I did notice one switch wasn't really getting to an open position so re-gapped it.

I also noticed that on relay Q, U and AX a few of the lugs were bent over. I straightened all of these out.

So I turned the game on and pressed start and the game started but the Score Motor continues to run now.

#47 27 days ago
Quoted from meSz:

the Score Motor continues to run now.

One or more of these switches or relays is keeping the score motor running. Which one(s)?

pasted_image (resized).png
#48 24 days ago

So I decided to tear down the pf, the main reason for me taking on this project. Plan is to get the pf done in next day or two and then get back to Troubleshooting.

More to come and thanks for the help thus far!

#49 23 days ago

PF cleaned up really nice!

13524131-CFFC-40D9-BE17-BAB81525A2BB (resized).jpeg
#50 23 days ago

Damn, that look great!

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