(Topic ID: 121785)

Gottlieb Spin Out-diary of a resto

By wayner

9 years ago


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  • Latest reply 5 years ago by wayner
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There are 97 posts in this topic. You are on page 1 of 2.
#1 9 years ago

I picked up this machine a few weeks ago. These are the pics of bringing it home:

SOarr1.jpgSOarr1.jpg

SOarr2.jpgSOarr2.jpg

SOarr3.jpgSOarr3.jpg

It thought it may be useful to provide progressive updates on the resto & I hope it is of interest to others. I wanted in particular to cover some of those issues which are confronted in a resto, perhaps even trivial, that we just do automatically without thinking too much about it. Quite often these are the curses that previous owners have bestowed upon us. As an Australian perhaps these 'curses' are magnified because machines and parts to provide the remedy are often from a far away place-the US mainly.

Anyhow on to Spin Out. This is a machine I wanted because in a past life I was a revhead and just like pins that really never leaves the soul. Spin Out by its art & perhaps ruleset I hope will provide a continuing practical reminder of that enjoyable past life.

I rate the machine condition cab 5; pf 6.5 & bg 7. As is usual when I got it home I wanted to establish whether & how it worked. It worked fine albeit with a variety of resto issues which I will cover as we move on. I always like to establish operationally where a machine stands before I start a resto. Through a resto I also try to maintain the continuity of the initial status so I do not create new issues.

When I said it worked it did so without the lightbox score & name lights operating. That was traced to poor contact/tension of a female terminal on a light box jones plug. But that then highlighted that the bg when it was lit was not quite what I had expected. It had a fair degree of flaking within the yellow name Spin Out & I figured I better do so something about this at the start of the resto. But given my previous poor experience with restoring a bg I already had bgresto in sight!!

SObgtreatprep.jpgSObgtreatprep.jpg

However I thought I would give it a go and at least give it the triple treatment to prevent any further deterioration. So after preparation (I do not clean the bg prior to treatment-too many experiences making it worse) I applied cross coats of triple thick and then used Clays method of applying gladwrap to the flaky areas and dampening down any raised sections. 24 hrs later I removed the gladwrap (it by miracle! just comes straight off) and the bg is sealed & the lifting pieces were flat & secured. I then touched up the affected areas using Createx & Americana acrylics & to my absolute amazement it turned out pretty good. I was stoked & as a result one less order for bgresto.

SObgreprear.jpgSObgreprear.jpg

SObgrepfront1.jpgSObgrepfront1.jpg

At this stage I completely disassembled the machine to undertake the cabinet, the score motor board, the playfield & finally the lightbox resto.

NEXT the cabinet.

#2 9 years ago

Nice job on the BG! If there is any translucency at all, try the colored rubber bulb covers, (available from several sources), to top it off. Not only do they add the color needed in a given area, they also add diffusion to the bulb. Not an alternative, but certainly icing on the "Eye-cake!"

#3 9 years ago
Quoted from Boatcat:

Nice job on the BG! If there is any translucency at all, try the colored rubber bulb covers, (available from several sources), to top it off. Not only do they add the color needed in a given area, they also add diffusion to the bulb. Not an alternative, but certainly icing on the "Eye-cake!"

Great advice Boatcat thks

#4 9 years ago

That looks good, Wayner. I'm going to have to try the createx...you used a brush for both paints?
I wish there was a definitive guide for dealing with the foam tape aftermath, and the color fade-out it causes. I'm afraid to try anything that might just cause more damage.

#5 9 years ago

Thks Pinbee. Yes a brush used in both cases and fortunately I was able to use colour 'out of the bottle'-Createx yellow; Createx blue & Americana cadmium red.

#6 9 years ago

The Cabinet of my Spin Out had structural & cosmetic issues. The standout issue was a really poor treatment of a 'holed' bottom board.

SOcabbotbd1.jpgSOcabbotbd1.jpg

SOcabbd2.jpgSOcabbd2.jpg

The repair looked dreadful. It used part of a packing case (from a Bally Hokus Pokus machine addressed to Atlas Music & Novelty Co Pittsburg Pa) and was secured by 1/4in cup head bolts and nuts.
After removal of this repair as is often the case on these cabinets the plywood lamination/s below the bottom board rebate had largely become separated. The remainder came away quite cleanly.

SOcabbd4.jpgSOcabbd4.jpg

This enabled the original bottom board to be removed and I was able to separate without damage the under coin box metal shield and associated timber sections to secure the on/off switch & coin box. I purchased a sheet of 7mm thick plywood (slightly thicker to original which gives greater lifting stability & durability) cut it to size and reattached the components removed from the original board.

SOcabbd5.jpgSOcabbd5.jpg

Now when sizing the new board I noted there was a slight bulge in the centre of the cabinet and the quad reinforcing/securing braces to the score motor bearers were either damaged or detached. I corrected the bulge & installed new braces (glued & brad nailed).

SOcabrepbulge.jpgSOcabrepbulge.jpg

SOcabrepinternal.jpgSOcabrepinternal.jpg

Finally the new board was installed and secured by a 9mm square moulding which was glued & brad nailed to the cabinet & which replaced the original separated ply laminations. I am pretty happy with result.

SOcabbd6.jpgSOcabbd6.jpg

The machine included a good condition pedestal from a Sing A Long machine but that blue & white does not match a chequered flag!! The pedestal was sanded & refinished with a primer & acrylic black using automotive spray cans ( I use these spray cans on small tasks rather than load up a spray gun.

SOcabrepped.jpgSOcabrepped.jpg

NEXT-further cab resto

#7 9 years ago

I really prefer original cab paint-there is just something to me which adds to the character of the game. On this Spin Out the light box and cabinet sides with touch up were ok but the front was a bit of a mess and I did not believe touch up would be successful.

SOcabrepfr1.jpgSOcabrepfr1.jpg

So I decided to repaint by first filling & sanding some cracks and holes for a lockbar with auto body filler & then taking a trace

SOcabrepfr2.jpgSOcabrepfr2.jpg

Then using the trace to prepare an MDF board stencil

SOcabrepfr3.jpgSOcabrepfr3.jpg

Using a touch up spray gun first the yellow

SOcabrepfr4.jpgSOcabrepfr4.jpg

Then the black

SOcabrepfr5.jpgSOcabrepfr5.jpg

and front finish

SOcabrep7.jpgSOcabrep7.jpg

NEXT-some cab unforeseen issues

#8 9 years ago

Keep it up, Wayner. I really like this game for some reason. Maybe it's the car theme (which I dig). Maybe it's that it's a 70's 3" Got with a roto target. I don't know. But I like this pin.

BTW, is that peanut butter in your last shot. WTF is going on down there in Australia???

#9 9 years ago

Yep I think it is the car theme dtown. That's an empty soup container for parts!

#10 9 years ago

wow, that is coming along nicely wayne..giving it the full treatment.

..love history of pinball, hope you didn't throw away those 2 bits of ply from the bottom panel..as they say one mans junk..

if you still have them and want to unload please let me know

#11 9 years ago

Continued with the cab resto & found a few niggling issues. I noticed the left playfield glass slide was grey rather than white and that it was short at the head end. Resolved that by adapting a pvc length from the local hardware store.

SOcabrepglslide.jpgSOcabrepglslide.jpg

But when I then observed the side rail I found it was short, had the wrong screw pattern & had a jaggered flipper button hole-clearly the wrong component.

SOcabrepsrail1.jpgSOcabrepsrail1.jpg

SOcabrepsrail2.jpgSOcabrepsrail2.jpg

That is maddening. I have organised purchase of used replacements.

A leg attachment internal bracket was missing-fortunately I had a replacement.

SOcabreplegbkt.jpgSOcabreplegbkt.jpg

I assume when the bottom board was accessed it was to gain entry to the coin box as the coin box lock bracket was bent forward badly-now corrected.

SOcabrepcoinbkt.jpgSOcabrepcoinbkt.jpg

Apart from some final touch-ups (I will post pics when that is done) that completes cab resto.

NEXT-score motor board

#12 9 years ago
Quoted from illawarra92:

wow, that is coming along nicely wayne..giving it the full treatment.
..love history of pinball, hope you didn't throw away those 2 bits of ply from the bottom panel..as they say one mans junk..
if you still have them and want to unload please let me know

No prob Tony its yours (subsequent PM sent).

#13 9 years ago

On the cabinet resto I have been surprised at the number of 'stripped' timber threads and what had been the response. For example the flipper button switches were held by what we refer in Australia to bugle head wallboard screws-they looked dreadful. In all cases the holes now have either been dowelled or toothpicked & the correct screws used.

The score motor board which was fairly gunked was removed from the machine and set up on a transfer board.

SOcabrepmb1.jpgSOcabrepmb1.jpg

All components were slid from the motor board to enable board cleaning & cleaning, adjustment of contacts & 'oiling' of score motor.

SOcabrepmb2.jpgSOcabrepmb2.jpg

The board was quite dirty

SOcabrepmb3.jpgSOcabrepmb3.jpg

It cleaned up pretty well using the technique profiled by jr pinball using brake cleaner

SOcabrepmb4.jpgSOcabrepmb4.jpg

All hardware was tumbled (where possible) and/or cleaned/polished

SOcabrepmb5.jpgSOcabrepmb5.jpg

After contact cleaning & where necessary adjustment all components were returned to the board and re installed in machine

SOmb1.jpgSOmb1.jpg

I was able to access the Peter Koch site to recreate a number of labels which were laminated & re-stapled to the board. My thanks go to Peter once again for providing this wonderful facility. The positive difference of the new labels compared to the old (the relay bank) is certainly stark.

The machine is missing a playmeter. I have arranged purchase of a replacement.

The machine has been returned to 110v operation which will use a 240v > 110v step down transformer. I was not happy with safety associated with the series connection of twin transformers covered in a separate thread

SOtsftandem.jpgSOtsftandem.jpg

SOcabreptsfsgle.jpgSOcabreptsfsgle.jpg

At this stage the machine was activated to confirm that playfield maintenance did not raise any issues. Despite thorough contact cleaning the 'old chestnut' a jones plug prevented machine operation. That was diagnosed & resolved fairly quickly.

NEXT-rebuild of chime & knocker units

#14 9 years ago

The chime unit was dismantled, cleaned & rebuilt with a PBR rebuild kit.

SOrepch1.jpgSOrepch1.jpg

It appeared that the knocker in bronze form was not original to this machine. It was replaced with a rebuilt nickel knocker.

SOrepkn1.jpgSOrepkn1.jpg

The on/off toggle switch was replaced with a preferred push switch.

SOrepchknsw.jpgSOrepchknsw.jpg

The machine lacked a full operating tilt mechanism which has now been corrected.

SOreptltfin.jpgSOreptltfin.jpg

NEXT-playfield

#15 9 years ago

That's the way to do it! Nice.

#16 9 years ago

Great work! I enjoy watching the progress you are making on this fine game.

#17 9 years ago

Nice work Wayner. The tops of those chime bars can look like new again if you 're-grain' them with sandpaper. I use 120-220 grit.

#18 9 years ago

Well on to the playfield. When I purchased this machine I knew there were issues with the integrity of the playfield-it was not the best but nor was it the worst.

SOarr2.jpgSOarr2.jpg

I have now stripped the upper playfield. I was very surprised at the level of tension of screws generally and of their rusting. A screw supporting the right hand guide would not dislodge so I needed to drill out the head, lift of the guide rail and then remove the remainder of the screw with pliers.
But when I got to removing the pop bumper bodies one securing screw on the right pop sheared just above the thread line and below the playfield surface. It is not possible to alter the securing location on the body so oh ....!

SOreppfbksc1.jpgSOreppfbksc1.jpg

Now the screw was too small for a screw extractor & the proximity of the internal pop wall prevented using a hollow extractor. So I decided to drill to the left side of the broken screw in an effort to move it sideways and upwards & accepting that the drill out will ultimately form part of the dowel hole

SOreppfbksc2.jpgSOreppfbksc2.jpg

then

SOreppfbksc3.jpgSOreppfbksc3.jpg

and up & out

SOreppfbrsc6.jpgSOreppfbrsc6.jpg

allowing drill out taking care not to sacrifice the internal wall & placement of a dowel using wood glue

SOreppfbksc5.jpgSOreppfbksc5.jpg

That went pretty well. I am quite happy that the internal side of the hole retained its integrity which resulted in a very tight dowel.

When the pop body (this one will be replaced) is installed the repair is hidden

SOreppfbksc7.jpgSOreppfbksc7.jpg

It seems that at some point the the ball return hole base plate was removed & replaced with a 'fill screw'-amazing!

SOreppfbretkk1.jpgSOreppfbretkk1.jpg

The ball arch cover will need respraying; the ball arch proper has significant rusting & will be replaced with a parted out unit and the shooting hardware replaced

SOreppfarch1.jpgSOreppfarch1.jpg

Following the initial clean & inspection I think with judicious touchup of the playfield it can come up reasonably well.

SOpfcl2.jpgSOpfcl2.jpg

NEXT - pf continued

#19 9 years ago

Nice going on that Spin Out !
In one of your pics, did I see the front of a Golden Arrow ?
Which Gottlieb has better game play ?
I had a mint Spin Out a long time ago, and have a Golden Arrow project now.
I'm trying to decide whether to tackle the GA or pass it along.

#20 9 years ago

Thks fast_in_muskoka.
Yep that's A Golden Arrow next in queue for a resto. I had played Golden Arrow at the recent Sydney Pinball Expo & really enjoyed it but all up I have probably only played 40 or so games. It certainly has tremendous presence through those very striking & colourful graphics on both the playfield & backglass.
The Spin Out I really only have played a limited number of games when it arrived a month or so back because the playfield had no protection & I did not want my resto to be any harder. I know this is a machine which is not readily accepted as a good player but frankly I quite enjoyed it & found getting the number sequence quite difficult but when you do and you get a pop pop pop it is a great feeling.
I think if you are a revhead like me you will like it and it will probably be a keeper for me and at some point I will onsell Golden Arrow.

#21 9 years ago

Coming along nicely Wayne - great work.

#22 9 years ago
Quoted from hoov:

Coming along nicely Wayne - great work.

It was great to touch base with you last week Dave & receive your informed opinion on the twin transformer setup, return it to original and over which I am now far more comfortable-as we Aussies say thks mate!!

#23 9 years ago

Great work, Proud owner of a Spin Out myself. Don't see a lot of these games for sale.

#24 9 years ago

Completed touchup of the middle & lower blue sections of the playfield which particularly above the flippers and under the roto target were well worn and made the game look very tired. Interestingly though the normal Spin Out wear patch under the kick out hole was not as serious as I had expected.

Before:

SOreppfintcl.jpgSOreppfintcl.jpg

After:

SOpfpt1.jpgSOpfpt1.jpg

SOpfpt2.jpgSOpfpt2.jpg

SOpfpt3.jpgSOpfpt3.jpg

The sections were brushed with good quality artists brushes using a mix of Americana baby blue & Createx brite green colour acrylics. The science of colour matching, if there is any, continues to escape me but I guess its all about experience and this is my first serious playfield touchup. I believe that using a good quality brush is critical to eliminate brush strokes in the finish and to be able to accurately brush to the demarcation lines. As a result no black line touchup was necessary.
I think the touchup changes the whole demeanour of the playfield for the better which is now ready for waxing.

My PBR order is due to arrive tomorrow just in time for various under playfield maintenance.

NEXT- playfield (upper) continued

#25 9 years ago

Hi Guys

Wondering if anyone out there might know where I can either acquire inhale the plans to make the small playfield plastic that sits atop the two playfield pieces that sit directly in the front center of the
Roto

Thanks guys

George

#26 9 years ago
Quoted from wayner:

ready for waxing.

Not sure how acrylic paints will hold up with just wax on them. Original paint was always protected with at least a thin coat of laquer.....

#27 9 years ago
Quoted from wayner:

Completed touchup of the middle & lower blue sections of the playfield which particularly above the flippers and under the roto target were well worn and made the game look very tired. Interestingly though the normal Spin Out wear patch under the kick out hole was not as serious as I had expected.

The sections were brushed with good quality artists brushes using a mix of Americana baby blue & Createx brite green colour acrylics. The science of colour matching, if there is any, continues to escape me but I guess its all about experience and this is my first serious playfield touchup. I believe that using a good quality brush is critical to eliminate brush strokes in the finish and to be able to accurately brush to the demarcation lines. As a result no black line touchup was necessary.
I think the touchup changes the whole demeanour of the playfield for the better which is now ready for waxing.

Wayner, I am also doing a touch up of my spin out. I was wondering if you considered doing the pink or whatever color it is and if not, why not? I can see from your pics the same color difference in those areas as compared to the part under the side rails, exactly the same as mine. I'm still trying to decide what to do with mine and just wanted to get your thoughts. What you have done looks great by the way!

#28 9 years ago
Quoted from GPS:

Hi Guys
Wondering if anyone out there might know where I can either acquire inhale the plans to make the small playfield plastic that sits atop the two playfield pieces that sit directly in the front center of the
Roto
Thanks guys
George

This is a pic of the chequered configuration provided by kangourou

SOrotofrch.pngSOrotofrch.png

I think from the pic included on IPBD it should be possible to design the plastic. The bigger issue for me is developing the reverse water slide decal-still figuring that one out. I note also that where I have seen Spin Out plastic sets for sale this particular plastic is never included. I wonder whether it was supplied with all production machines.

Quoted from stashyboy:

Not sure how acrylic paints will hold up with just wax on them. Original paint was always protected with at least a thin coat of laquer.....

Thks stashyboy. I have now provided an 'acrylic' clear over the touchup sections as I did in touchup with my El Dorado on the high wear ball arch area-no probs to date but will watch closely.

#29 9 years ago
Quoted from Noobee:

Wayner, I am also doing a touch up of my spin out. I was wondering if you considered doing the pink or whatever color it is and if not, why not? I can see from your pics the same color difference in those areas as compared to the part under the side rails, exactly the same as mine. I'm still trying to decide what to do with mine and just wanted to get your thoughts. What you have done looks great by the way!

Ah Noobee I often struggle with 'where you start & where you end' & this was no exception.
I had only intended to touch up the blue sections immediately in front of the roto targets and above the flippers. But I struggled getting a colour match I think in part because there are so many colour variations in a given area with age, it was just not 'brushing' well & the wet colour is not the dry colour.
So I put aside my cheap KMart 'artists' brushes & pulled out some well worn brushes (over 60 yrs old) which my Dad (who was a ticketwriter) had left me & so they are very special and it brought a tear to my eye to use them as he had done. I used two in particular a fine one & a broader one.

SOpfbr.jpgSOpfbr.jpg

You will see that the fine one even has the stem held together with wire!! But wow did using these brushes make a difference. The acrylic flowed nicely and it was so easy brushing to the extremities without 'painting the black delineation lines'.
Getting back to your question I decided then that I would do the upper blue section down to the top of the numbers 1 to 7. But it seemed to go reasonably well so I took it to the flippers and the two lower outside blue complete areas.
I know it looks as though I could have gone further including into the pink but those areas were not really worn & I did not want to go further than I needed. I also think that once the playfield is populated any difference will be barely noticeable. However I now accept that for touchup you really do need to do sections rather than spots if wear is significant in certain areas.

#30 9 years ago
Quoted from wayner:

The board was quite dirty
It cleaned up pretty well using the technique profiled by jr pinball using brake cleaner

Can you expound upon this or provide a link?

I was able to access the Peter Koch site to recreate a number of labels which were laminated & re-stapled to the board. My thanks go to Peter once again for providing this wonderful facility.

I didn't know about this site, what a great resource! And here I was reinventing the wheel. Another newb enlightened. Thanks for posting.

#31 9 years ago

From post 11 these are the near final exterior cab pics following respray of the cab front & back & touchup of the head and cab sides. Spatter of the rear & attachment of gliders still remains and the coin door is a project door with the machine coin door to be covered in a later post.

SOcabf1.jpgSOcabf1.jpg

SOcabfr2.jpgSOcabfr2.jpg

SOcabf3.jpgSOcabf3.jpg

SOcabf4.jpgSOcabf4.jpg

Back to the playfield I discovered that the upper outside rollovers should be a mini tent guide whereas standard double sided guides had been installed. Additional screw holes had been made outside of the mini tent guide perimeter.

SOpflg1.jpgSOpflg1.jpg

SOpflg2.jpgSOpflg2.jpg

SOpflg3.jpgSOpflg3.jpg

No idea why this would have been done but to me it sucks! Anyhow holes filled, touchup completed & correct posts & guides ordered. This is shown in a pic of the playfield after 2 wax layers (8-10 to be undertaken).

SOpfwx2.jpgSOpfwx2.jpg

I have also made a start on the playfield underside starting at the rear and the ball return hole kicker. I again show this pic

SOreppfbretkk1.jpgSOreppfbretkk1.jpg

and on the underside

SOpfbk1.jpgSOpfbk1.jpg

SOpdbk2.jpgSOpdbk2.jpg

It is the wrong ball kicker for this machine so whoever has made the wrong kicker fit and used the screw to in part take the place of the hole plate. These sort of 'fixes' make me mad!!! I have now ordered the correct parts.

NEXT - pf continued

#32 9 years ago

Yea, and the actuator plate as a shim, pretty bogus!

#33 9 years ago

Hi Wayner,

I am learning plenty from this restore,great post.

Steve J.

#34 9 years ago
Quoted from polyacanthus:

Can you expound upon this or provide a link?

This is the copy of a message kindly sent to me by jrpinball a few months back about brake cleaner & motor board cleaning:

"You have to shower the board liberally with the brake cleaner. Use the nasty stuff (chlorinated type), and do it outside. Prop the board up at an angle in a suitable basin or tray to catch the runoff. Depending on how dirty everything is, you may need to use a full can or two, and you may need to use a small stiff brush to remove stubborn gunk and hardened grease. It does a great job of cleaning the wiring harnesses and since it dries very quickly, it leaves no moisture or residue. If after doing this the board itself isn't as clean as you would like it, dismount the components (I usually do about a 1/4 section at a time) and lightly rub down the board with steel wool or fine sandpaper. The brake cleaner will dissolve any grease or oil, so anything that needs lubrication should be relubed. I usually polish all the switch points with a rotary wire brush mounted in a Dremel tool. This leaves the contacts shiny and clean, and takes very little effort per switch. Of course there are many switches to clean, so it does take some time".

I have now used this method a no of times and on my experience it is a terrific process.

#35 9 years ago
Quoted from wayner:

This is a pic of the chequered configuration provided by kangourou
SOrotofrch.png (Click image to enlarge)
I think from the pic included on IPBD it should be possible to design the plastic. The bigger issue for me is developing the reverse water slide decal-still figuring that one out. I note also that where I have seen Spin Out plastic sets for sale this particular plastic is never included. I wonder whether it was supplied with all production machines.

Thks stashyboy. I have now provided an 'acrylic' clear over the touchup sections as I did in touchup with my El Dorado on the high wear ball arch area-no probs to date but will watch closely.

Thanks so much for the reply. I would like for you to keep me in mind if you make a waterslide decal. I would be happy to purchase several from you

George

#36 9 years ago

Completed 10 wax layers on the playfield & it has come up reasonably well.

SOpfgwx10.jpgSOpfgwx10.jpg

The timber guide rails were sanded & clear coated then waxed prior to re-installation. The tip of clear finishing these rails was provided by MikeO some months ago & I think significantly adds to the lustre of a playfield. New shooting lane hardware was installed replacing rusted components.
On this resto I did not remove the wireform lane guides but did remove rust spots & brought back their polished sheen. I believe that securing notches at the foot of these guides makes it problematic whether the guides can be removed without damaging the playfield.
I did however remove the wireforms immediately below the flippers as these have no notched locators, are easily removed & harbour significant gunk which needs to be removed.

SOpflgfl1.jpgSOpflgfl1.jpg

I remove these wireforms by prizing a non abrasive plastic sleeve underneath and then use a paint scraper over the plastic sleeve to carefully lever the wireforms up & away.

SOlgfl2.jpgSOlgfl2.jpg

Now I find on many machines metal hole liners (I often refer to them as egg rings) which have an important functional & aesthetic role are either missing or tarnished. I always replace them.

SOpfhr1.jpgSOpfhr1.jpg

SOpfhr2.jpgSOpfhr2.jpg

NEXT - playfield continued

#37 8 years ago

Looking beautiful, wayner! I especially like the look of that cabinet, which has an awesome design on it.

On the notched lane guides, I've found that using a pair of needle nosed pliers just above the base usually gets them right out of the playfield without damage. I always label them so that I know which hole each notch was removed from and the exact depth on each post. This greatly reduces wear when it comes time to reinstall them. Once they're out, a quick clean with the wire brush, some light work with barkeeper's friend, finishing with a dry scotch brite pad, then a few hours in my tumbler and they're usually as good as new.

It's amazing how much crud builds up on those things over the years.

#38 8 years ago
Quoted from jjpm:

Looking beautiful, wayner! I especially like the look of that cabinet, which has an awesome design on it.
On the notched lane guides, I've found that using a pair of needle nosed pliers just above the base usually gets them right out of the playfield without damage. I always label them so that I know which hole each notch was removed from and the exact depth on each post. This greatly reduces wear when it comes time to reinstall them. Once they're out, a quick clean with the wire brush, some light work with barkeeper's friend, finishing with a dry scotch brite pad, then a few hours in my tumbler and they're usually as good as new.
It's amazing how much crud builds up on those things over the years.

Thks jjpm. I must summon up the courage to try your method on the next one. There is no doubt the less obstacles to wax significantly improves the process.

#39 8 years ago

Transferred the playfield to the rotisserie for work on the underside. I find this part very important with lots of preventative maintenance and discoveries! Why has the transfer to the rotisserie not happened sooner. When I have the timber siderails off the playfield (which I believe give the pf longitudinal support) I prefer not to have a loaded pf unsupported on the rotisserie.

SOpfroti1.jpgSOpfroti1.jpg

SOroti2.jpgSOroti2.jpg

Before going to the underside there were a few other things to mention re the pf top. Using the PBR bulb socket probe I clean all sockets & in some acute cases I also use a wire brush in a high speed power tool. I feel bulbs lit properly are a really important part of machine performance.

SOpfbulbsuccl.jpgSOpfbulbsuccl.jpg

I was concerned at the condition of the chrome bracket which sits between the roto numbers-despite cleaning it had lots of rust etching.

SOpfrotachr1.jpgSOpfrotachr1.jpg

I bought on ebay an A4 sheet of silver chrome vinyl adhesive (only used a small section).

SOpfrotachr2.jpgSOpfrotachr2.jpg

and whammo what a difference!!

SOpfrotachr3.jpgSOpfrotachr3.jpg

I am anxious to resolve that elusive plastic that seems to be missing from many Spin Outs and seemingly not included in plastic sets. It was very well captured by kangourou recently

SOandrewplas.jpgSOandrewplas.jpg

I made a rough template for a plastic and am enhancing the artwork provided by kangourou to enable creation of a water slide decal of the 'chequers'. I also found that the machine had installed post rubbers rather than a single rubber-that will be corrected.

SOpfrotaplastemp.jpgSOpfrotaplastemp.jpg

Now starting on the underside I will try to start at the ball return end & work forward. In general terms I will be cleaning, replacing coil sleeves & inspecting coil stops, if necessary adjusting & reviewing everything bearing in mind the machine at the start was operational!! The ball kickout return I am awaiting parts.
I had already removed all rollover wireforms. They were a pretty sad lot (left) with heavy rust. I decided to tumble some spares (right) and will use those. Wow this machine is depleting my spares cache!

SOpfwforms.jpgSOpfwforms.jpg

As I install the wireforms I remove, clean and if necessary adjust the switches.

SOpfsws.jpgSOpfsws.jpg

As I move through I also inspect all bulb holders & solder the lamp body to the base. I have found this procedure eliminates just so many dull/blinking/malfunctioning bulbs. I also thoroughly clean the underside of all inserts-what a difference that makes to the pf light show!

SOpfbulbsoc.jpgSOpfbulbsoc.jpg

I also insert a bulb to each completed bulb holder & verify operation. On this first bulb holder I found the grounding braid had come adrift-that is preventative maintenance!

SOpfbulbtest.jpgSOpfbulbtest.jpg

Moving across to the kickers the contact kicker arms were quite worn/corroded/flaking-more parts needed!

SOpfkickold.jpgSOpfkickold.jpg

and it was so good to look at the playfield with those bright shiny lower rollover wires poking through

SOpflowerprog.jpgSOpflowerprog.jpg

NEXT - playfield under

#40 8 years ago

Great work Wayne! But, as for the brake cleaner on the motor board trick, if you're going to remove all the components from the motor board, I would simply sand the board clean. If you're in a rush, or just not as ambitious, use the brake cleaner to clean the board; components installed and all. Many games don't really need this process, just the really cruddied up ones. On most, I've simply used a nice wide, stiff paint brush to loosen light dirt and dust, then blow everything off with compressed air.
As an aside, my friend Pat picked up a "Spin Out" from a flea market guy at the recent Ohio show. It was not really bad, except that the bottom panel was practically falling out. It had obviously been a mouse apartment for some time. I helped him clean it up, and he "show shopped" it, and actually had it playing on the show floor. He will of course replace the bottom panel and get it all spiffed up now that he has it home. Here's some photos. We had a few laughs at his expense because of that game, but I'm sure he'll make it nice.

IMG_0110a.JPGIMG_0110a.JPG I didn't get permission to use his face, so I spared you guys!
IMG_0112.JPGIMG_0112.JPGIMG_0113.JPGIMG_0113.JPGIMG_0114.JPGIMG_0114.JPGIMG_0115.JPGIMG_0115.JPGIMG_0116.JPGIMG_0116.JPGIMG_0117.JPGIMG_0117.JPG

After several plays, the game started "waking up", and actually played pretty good!

#41 8 years ago

That's a great story jrp and the machine has the elusive plastic in front of the roto target & a pretty good playfield. What I found intriguing was that on the apron the instruction card is actually 'the high score options'!!! Any idea what Pat paid for the machine?

#42 8 years ago

I don't know exactly what he paid for it, and I wouldn't want to say unless I got his permission to disclose it, but it wasn't very much. If you're up for that kind of work, it's a very nice project game.
Here in the states, and particularly in the northeastern US, pins are relatively plentiful, so heavy projects are usually slow to move unless the price is very, very good. I'm glad he got it, because someone else may have just parted it out.

#43 8 years ago

What amazed me was your comment that he picked it up at a 'flea market'. That just would never, or maybe could not, happen down under! I envy your opportunities.

#44 8 years ago
Quoted from wayner:

Transferred the playfield to the rotisserie for work on the underside. I find this part very important with lots of preventative maintenance and discoveries! Why has the transfer to the rotisserie not happened sooner. When I have the timber siderails off the playfield (which I believe give the pf longitudinal support) I prefer not to have a loaded pf unsupported on the rotisserie.
SOpfroti1.jpg
SOroti2.jpg
Before going to the underside there were a few other things to mention re the pf top. Using the PBR bulb socket probe I clean all sockets & in some acute cases I also use a wire brush in a High Speed power tool. I feel bulbs lit properly are a really important part of machine performance.
SOpfbulbsuccl.jpg
I was concerned at the condition of the chrome bracket which sits between the roto numbers-despite cleaning it had lots of rust etching.
SOpfrotachr1.jpg
I bought on ebay an A4 sheet of silver chrome vinyl adhesive (only used a small section).
SOpfrotachr2.jpg
and whammo what a difference!!
SOpfrotachr3.jpg
I am anxious to resolve that elusive plastic that seems to be missing from many Spin Outs and seemingly not included in plastic sets. It was very well captured by kangourou recently
SOandrewplas.jpg (Click image to enlarge)
I made a rough template for a plastic and am enhancing the artwork provided by kangourou to enable creation of a water slide decal of the 'chequers'. I also found that the machine had installed post rubbers rather than a single rubber-that will be corrected.
SOpfrotaplastemp.jpg
Now starting on the underside I will try to start at the ball return end & work forward. In general terms I will be cleaning, replacing coil sleeves & inspecting coil stops, if necessary adjusting & reviewing everything bearing in mind the machine at the start was operational!! The ball kickout return I am awaiting parts.
I had already removed all rollover wireforms. They were a pretty sad lot (left) with heavy rust. I decided to tumble some spares (right) and will use those. Wow this machine is depleting my spares cache!
SOpfwforms.jpg
As I install the wireforms I remove, clean and if necessary adjust the switches.
SOpfsws.jpg
As I move through I also inspect all bulb holders & solder the lamp body to the base. I have found this procedure eliminates just so many dull/blinking/malfunctioning bulbs. I also thoroughly clean the underside of all inserts-what a difference that makes to the pf light show!
SOpfbulbsoc.jpg
I also insert a bulb to each completed bulb holder & verify operation. On this first bulb holder I found the grounding braid had come adrift-that is preventative maintenance!
SOpfbulbtest.jpg
Moving across to the kickers the contact kicker arms were quite worn/corroded/flaking-more parts needed!
SOpfkickold.jpg
and it was so good to look at the playfield with those bright shiny lower rollover wires poking through
SOpflowerprog.jpg
NEXT - playfield under

Love the idea of the pbr light cleaner inside a drill. Going to do that from now on!

#45 8 years ago

Prepared the coin door components (screws & coin mechs not shown) for the coin door. I decided to retain the original coin door which was fairly rusty but has come up pretty well. I am also influenced by cost as the base cost for a new door, plus exchange rate, plus shipping is likely to sit around $A150-that is heaps!!

SOcoindoor1.jpgSOcoindoor1.jpg

As there have been a no of posts seeking info on coin door assembly I will do a stepped assembly pictorial later.
Returning to the pf underside I had mentioned replacing the contact kicker arms due mainly to flaky nickel. However I made a call that there has to be a limit on $ spent on this machine (at this stage) and at times compromise has to take the place of purity. So abrasive blasted the arms and then recoated in a satin chrome finish. Ok but far from perfect.

SOpfkickold.jpgSOpfkickold.jpg

SOpfckick1.jpgSOpfckick1.jpg

SOpfckick2.jpgSOpfckick2.jpg

Removed & disassembled the hole kicker lots of crud around for cleaning. I found the fulcrum arm on the kicker had become loose from the 'rivet head'.

SOpfhkick1.jpgSOpfhkick1.jpg

Resolved by re-asserting the head to the arm and now very tight. Much of the thrust of the hole kicker would have been compromised by this looseness & may explain why there was little wear on the typical Spin Out pf wear spot (the wear was elsewhere!!).

The hole kicker ring was heavily rusted & looked dreadful. I will replace from the parts cache.

SOpfhring.jpgSOpfhring.jpg

Found another bulb where the grounding braid had come adrift but on this occasion a previous fix included a washer head screw-incredible!!

SOpfbulbgr2.jpgSOpfbulbgr2.jpg

SOpfbulbgr1.jpgSOpfbulbgr1.jpg

NEXT - pf underside continued

#46 8 years ago
Quoted from wayner:

What amazed me was your comment that he picked it up at a 'flea market'. That just would never, or maybe could not, happen down under! I envy your opportunities.

I don't know if you use the term "flea market" in Australia, but this one was at the recent Ohio pinball show. The "for sale as-is" area (often located outdoors, but not at this show) is referred to as the "flea market" area. A flea market is generally any gathering of casual vendors selling various items in a temporary marketplace. At some pinshows here in the US, vendors come with truckloads of machines in varying states of disrepair. It's a great opportunity to pick up project games reasonably priced. I guess we don't realize just how lucky we are to have such access to games.

#47 8 years ago
Quoted from jrpinball:

I don't know if you use the term "flea market" in Australia, but this one was at the recent Ohio pinball show. The "for sale as-is" area (often located outdoors, but not at this show) is referred to as the "flea market" area. A flea market is generally any gathering of casual vendors selling various items in a temporary marketplace. At some pinshows here in the US, vendors come with truckloads of machines in varying states of disrepair. It's a great opportunity to pick up project games reasonably priced. I guess we don't realize just how lucky we are to have such access to games.

Yep we have flea markets jrp but they are pretty limited in scope to my knowledge

#48 8 years ago

Received some packages from the US today. These 3 items along with two others were received before an order I placed at the same time for items from Melbourne, Australia-just incredible!!

SOcab415del.jpgSOcab415del.jpg

The pipe pack included a left hand SS siderail & glass guide (mentioned in post 11) along with a playmeter (yep this machine has only done 43630 plays) & a few other items.

SOcabssrail.jpgSOcabssrail.jpg

SOmbpm.jpgSOmbpm.jpg

I purchased these items from ebay seller Pinjunk (Skip). I cannot speak too highly of this seller. He is absolutely fantastic in service & serving the hobby. His packaging of my items was outstanding.

Another package contained some parts to rectify an alien installation of the ball return kicker.

SOpfbretkick6.jpgSOpfbretkick6.jpg

SOpfbretkick7.jpgSOpfbretkick7.jpg

These parts came from Marco & again my experience with Marco is that this Coy processes orders fast & highly professionally. I do not use PBR for small orders because for me I encounter for each order a $A20 bank tsf fee & a $US25 bank fee-that is roughly $A50 before I start ordering!!

The third package in the pic is a mystery box which I will cover in a separate thread.

I have completed resto of the hole kicker assembly which required thorough cleaning, replace coil sleeve, adjust switch & replace hole ring.

SOpfhkick2.jpgSOpfhkick2.jpg

SOpfhkick.jpgSOpfhkick.jpg

I have prepared all pop bumper components & their initial assembly.

SOpfpopcomps1.jpgSOpfpopcomps1.jpg

SOpfpopcomps2.jpgSOpfpopcomps2.jpg

I will replace x1 pop bayonet socket which was broken and was bypassed by the addition of an extended wire connection which was another one of those awful fixes.

SOpfpopbulbwire.jpgSOpfpopbulbwire.jpg

I have prepared all flipper components. This includes install of a PBR mini rebuild kit, replacement bats & orange dot coils.

SOpffliprods.jpgSOpffliprods.jpg

SOpffl;ipcomps1.jpgSOpffl;ipcomps1.jpg

NEXT - pf underside continued

#49 8 years ago

Love this thread. I learn so much that will benefit me as I continue in this hobby! Plus I'm excited to see your Spin Out come to life!

#50 8 years ago
Quoted from goldenboy232:

Love this thread. I learn so much that will benefit me as I continue in this hobby! Plus I'm excited to see your Spin Out come to life!

I really appreciate your kind comments goldenboy232-thks.

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