(Topic ID: 142929)

Gottlieb Spiderman blowing 1/4 SB display fuse?

By Colsond3

8 years ago


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  • 19 posts
  • 5 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 2 years ago by metalguy
  • Topic is favorited by 2 Pinsiders

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#1 8 years ago

My Gottlieb System 80 Spiderman keeps blowing the 1/4 amp SB display fuse in the bottom of the cabinet. I tested all the displays, including the credit display, and all check out OK. Checked briefly for a short, and didn't see anything obvious. Any input or suggestions would be appreciated.

#2 8 years ago

Fuse issue bump

#3 8 years ago

First, never work on the displays with the game powered up, you can do more damage to the IC's on the CPU board.

Did you visually inspect the display tubes to see if a nipple is broken off a tube or one of the horizontal filiment lines is broken? Did you try disconnecting all displays and then fuse it to see if the displays are the cause or the problem is in the power supply? If the fuse still blows, the problem is in the display power and you'll have to troubleshoot it. If the fuse holds up, with the power off, add in one display and turn on the game. Does the fuse still hold up? If so, repeat this process until you find the problem display. Then, you'll have to troubleshoot the display to see if it can be fixed.

Steve
System 80, not just a job, it's an adventure

4 weeks later
#4 8 years ago

Blownfuse, I disconnected all displays and threw another 1/4 A SB fuse in the holder, and it blew again. I'm assuming from the info you provided I have a PSB issue?

#5 8 years ago

Sounds like you've narrowed it down to the A2 power supply as a probable source. Does the fuse still blow when the only board connected is the A2 power supply?

Steve
System 80, not just a job, it's an adventure

Quoted from Colsond3:

Blownfuse, I disconnected all displays and threw another 1/4 A SB fuse in the holder, and it blew again. I'm assuming from the info you provided I have a PSB issue?

#6 8 years ago

Just leave the A2 PSB hooked up? Do I remove the A1-J1 cable to the MPU, or any other connectors on the PSB?

#7 8 years ago

Yes, just leave the power coming in to the power supply board connected. Does the fuse still blow?

Steve
System 80, not just a job, it's an adventure

#8 8 years ago

Steve, With only A2-J1 connector connected, the fuse still blew.

#9 8 years ago

Okay, one last possible sacrifice to the fuse god. When the A2 power supply is removed from the equasion, does the fuse still blow? If so, you have a bridge rectifyer issue. If not, the problem is on the A2 power supply itself and you'll have to troubleshoot it.

Steve
System 80, not just a job, it's an adventure

#10 8 years ago

Damn it!!! I'm out of 1/4 amp fuses. Thought I had one more, but it looked fried. Tested it...no good. I'll have to hold off troubleshooting for now. Ordered some already and should have them early this week. Thanks for all your help so far, Steve.

#11 8 years ago

I might be able to grab a few off a pin buddy tomorrow. Sidebar - I noticed the PSB says "OBX" on the bottom left hand corner of the board. I'm assuming this isn't an original and the previous owner or someone else tossed some other board into it?

6 years later
#12 2 years ago

I'm having this same issue on a system 80a "The games". Did all of the above then disconnected all from power supply (new gulf by the way) . Fuse still blows. I'm looking at schematic as best I can (I'm not well versed at solid state). It shows the f3 not going thru a rectifier but 60vac.

I had the game working and displays up with the new power supply but they just started popping fuses after a few on/off cycles.

#13 2 years ago
Quoted from metalguy:

"... just started popping fuses after a few on/off cycles."

Can you tell me the part number of the high-voltage regulator on that board?

#14 2 years ago

Gpe I’m not sure if the hv regulator is the transistor with the big heat sink. If it is it’s a tip31c. I did get it working again with another batch of fuses. I wonder if there might have been a problem with the fuses?

Some of the displays sometimes show odd display issues. But that might be connection issues? Because after powering down and reseating it seems to go away

#15 2 years ago

TIP31C -- OK, series pass regulator. I doubt the regulator has gone bad.
Fuses rarely "go bad" unless you had some Chinese ebay 'specials'.

Note that the first thing to always suspect in a Gottlieb machine is...connectors, connectors, connectors.

#16 2 years ago

Ok so I found something odd. When the cabinet head is closed the heat sink was touching/ possibly shorting to the metal vent/ ground on the back of the head. This is a slim line head. I wonder if I should try shortening the nylon standoffs on the back of the powersupply

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#17 2 years ago

put some electrical tape at that spot and check to see if the fuse still pops

#18 2 years ago

Incoming power is directly connected to the transistor's "collector" pin (middle pin).
TIP31C transistor's 'tab' is internally connected to the collector pin.
Transistor tab is probably mounted directly to the heats sink without electrical isolation.
Therefore the input power is connected to the heat sink.

Vent is grounded.

When heat sink touches the vent - there's your problem.

It appears the power supply has spacers between the board and the two metal mounting brackets. Is this true? Or is it just due to the angle of the image in the photo? Normally Gottlieb power supplies (original and aftermarket) are directly attached to the brackets.

An option may be to change the transistor's mounting hardware. Use an electrically isolating insulator between transistor and heat sink (either mica such as Keystone 4672 or electrically insulative heat sink gasket such as Thermalloy SP900S-0.009-AC-54). Attach transistor to heat sink using either plastic hardware or using a heat sink shoulder washer (e.g. Aavid 7721-7PPS). But you need to make sure the original manufacturer didn't intentionally tie the heat sink to incoming power through the heat sink mounting pins (not common practice to do this).

#19 2 years ago

Yup that’s it. It has nylon stand-off spacers on the back of power supply. I shortened them 1/4” and put electric tape on back of vent just in case. I believe it was the shorting that was also making the displays go weird and blow fuses and not connectors. Thanks guys

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