(Topic ID: 263185)

Gottlieb Soccer Restoration - Player Unit Problems

By Peruman

1 year ago



Topic Stats

  • 7 posts
  • 3 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 1 year ago by Peruman
  • Topic is favorited by 1 Pinsider

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#1 1 year ago

I have been working on a Gottlieb Soccer for the last couple of weeks. This board already helped me with an issue with the +25V rail and a broken make-break blade switch. I'm further down the project now and debugging the Startup sequence. I'm stuck on Step 9 (last step) of the Startup Sequence. After pressing the Replay Button, the game will reset the scoring reels (player 1 first, then player 2) and kick-out ball 1 onto the runway. The problem is that after that, when Ball 1 gets into the outhole, the game does not move forward to Ball 2 or any other balls. Looking at Step 9 of the Startup Sequence in the manual, it states:

"The remaining balls that enter the outhole are kicked across the trough switch which pulls in the "P" relay. "P" relay runs the motor. Switches on "SB", "ZB", motor 2c, "P", and motor 1A advance the "player" unit the required number of steps determined by the "player" unit switches and the player relays."

In Steps 1-8 of the Startup sequence, the player unit does step normally. For some reason, when ball 1 goes into the outhole and the "P" switch closes, the player unit does not advance. The plunger on it, marked in red in the photo (I had a movie but can't upload it) tries to trigger, but barely moves. This is what I have done so far to debug the issue, without success:

1) Reflowed the power connections to the coil. While the wires were off I measured the coil resistance, measuring 3 Ohms.
2) When the coil is trying to fire, I help it out by pushing it to actuate. If I do this, the game is able to go through the sequence of balls in play.
3) I jumped all of the switches per the schematic attached. I wanted to make sure the NC switches on the scoring reels or the NC switches on the player unit stack 3 and 4 were not an issue.

Should I continue working my way jumping the other switches in that circuit?

Thanks,

Alberto

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#2 1 year ago
Quoted from Peruman:

when ball 1 goes into the outhole and the "P" switch closes, the player unit does not advance.

You don't necessarily jump the switches one at a time.
Inspect and diagnose this circuit with Alligator clip jumper wires
http://www.planetimming.com/Pinball/troubleshooting/EM%20Troubleshooting.pdf
http://www.pinrepair.com/em/index3.htm#features

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#3 1 year ago
Quoted from Peruman:

3) I jumped all of the switches per the schematic attached. I wanted to make sure the NC switches on the scoring reels or the NC switches on the player unit stack 3 and 4 were not an issue.
Should I continue working my way jumping the other switches in that circuit?
Thanks,
Alberto[quoted image][quoted image]

There are a number of switches involved in that circuit as traced by HowardR. It looks like you only bypassed the P3 and P4 in your diagram. So, yes keep jumping.

#4 1 year ago

HowardR and edednedy, it was Motor2C. It looked like it was making contact but it was not. Game is now playing two-player games and counting balls 1 through 5. Thank you!

On to the next issue

#5 1 year ago

More progress on this game last night. There were two issues with the player 1 1000's scoring reel.

1) It would not reset during the Startup Cycle --> Switch stack on the reel was gummed up and would not move correctly. Fixed once it was cleaned.
2) After the 100's reel would transition from "9" to "0", the 1000's reel would not increment --> Cold solder joint on the 100's reel switch stack, fixed too

The next three issues on the list:

* Chimes don't work, all the components are present, but nothing happens. I'll start that debug by tracing all the signals in the schematic.
* Touch-up a couple bare spots in front of the kick-out holes at the top of the playfield.
* Pop bumpers locked up the first time I powered up the game. Two out of the three coils were burnt from before - I should have noticed this. Since then I pulled them off the playfield, cleaned everything, got new springs, and new coils. I need to re-install them.

Thanks again for all the help on this game.

#6 1 year ago

Chimes are now working. The 1000's and 100's chimes were not working due to a dirty connection on the "M" and "N" relay that control them. The switch looked close but was actually open when checked with a voltmeter (lesson learned for the future).

The signal to the 10's chime was getting there from the "L" relay but nothing was happening at the chime. Taking apart the chime unit showed a broken wire going from the coil to the coil tab. The coil tab was also loose. Luckily I was able to solder the wire back on. The tab was epoxied back into place. Finished the chime rebuild with a kit from PBR. These chimes don't sound as nice as the ones on my Ship Ahoy, but it is good that they are now working.

I also got the LED order from Comet and started to populate those. I don't go crazy with LED's. I use 1SMD frosted warms in the backbox and any playfield bulbs under plastics. For inserts I color match with 2SMD bulbs when it calls for it but for the most part use 2SMD frosted sunlights.

Next is playfield touchup on one spot that is worn down to the wood.

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#7 1 year ago

I wanted to thank this board for all your help with getting Soccer up and running again. Game is now 100% functional. I wish the backglass was better, but at least it's not going to get worse. Next for this one is touching up the cabinet and taking care of the coin door.

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