(Topic ID: 261291)

Gottlieb Soccer no 25V on transformer

By Peruman

1 year ago


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  • 13 posts
  • 4 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 1 year ago by Peruman
  • Topic is favorited by 1 Pinsider

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#1 1 year ago

Started working on getting a Gottlieb Soccer to work again. First I checked all the fuses, all are good. Next I checked the 6V and 25V coming out of the transformer.

The white wire coming out of the transformer reads 5.7V and both the fuses read that.

When I check the red wire which is supposed to carry 25V, I’m only seeing 5.5V. Same thing if I check the terminal labeled HIGH on the transformer. I know I’ve seen a similar question on the forum recently that transformers are hard to damage, but is this the case for this game? Is the transformer shot?

Thanks

Alberto

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#2 1 year ago

When you measure 25v you are touching the black and red leads top right? to measure 6v you touch the black-white lead top right and the white lead top left.

transformers rarely go bad. Fuse holders are the common issue

#3 1 year ago
Quoted from pinhead52:

When you measure 25v you are touching the black and red leads top right? to measure 6v you touch the black-white lead top right and the white lead top left.
transformers rarely go bad. Fuse holders are the common issue

I’m not. I’m connected to the ground on the cabinet and measuring 6V at the white lead on the top left. For what should be 25V I’m measuring the red lead, also to cabinet ground. I’ll have to try what you explained when I get home tonight.

Would it also make sense to remove the fuses from the holder to isolate the transformer from the rest of the circuit and then make the measurement?

#4 1 year ago
Quoted from Peruman:

I’m not. I’m connected to the ground on the cabinet and measuring 6V at the white lead on the top left. For what should be 25V I’m measuring the red lead, also to cabinet ground. I’ll have to try what you explained when I get home tonight.
Would it also make sense to remove the fuses from the holder to isolate the transformer from the rest of the circuit and then make the measurement?

the transformer secondary windings are isolated! to accurately measure the 25v (really about 28v if your input is 120) you need to go across the black lead and the red lead. No dont bother yanking fuses

#5 1 year ago

Every time I've suspected that I may have a bad transformer, it's turned out to be something else. Usually a bad fuse holder.

That's why I check fuses through the fuse holder. I put one side of a continuity meter on one fuse solder lug and the other on the opposite solder lug with the fuse in the holder. If I get solid continuity, I know that not only is the fuse good but so is the holder.

I find an ohm meter to be much more useful than a volt meter. I'd check for any possible continuity (open circuit) issues before I would begin checking voltages. Because, the former is much more likely than the latter.

#6 1 year ago
Quoted from edednedy:

Every time I've suspected that I may have a bad transformer, it's turned out to be something else. Usually a bad fuse holder.
That's why I check fuses through the fuse holder. I put one side of a continuity meter on one fuse solder lug and the other on the opposite solder lug with the fuse in the holder. If I get solid continuity, I know that not only is the fuse good but so is the holder.
I find an ohm meter to be much more useful than a volt meter. I'd check for any possible continuity (open circuit) issues before I would begin checking voltages. Because, the former is much more likely than the latter.

Check continuity with power off

#7 1 year ago

I checked continuity on the transformer coils, all good. Checked fuse holders, all good. Powered up transformer and measured per your recommendation, all voltages were correct.

Somebody bent the bounce switch going to the 25V circuit open, schematic shows it as NC. I’m going to check and make sure there are no shorts downstream of it before bending it to the right state

Thank you all for the advice. I’ll keep on posting updates

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#8 1 year ago
Quoted from Peruman:

I checked continuity on the transformer coils, all good. Checked fuse holders, all good. Powered up transformer and measured per your recommendation, all voltages were correct.
Somebody bent the bounce switch going to the 25V circuit open, schematic shows it as NC. I’m going to check and make sure there are no shorts downstream of it before bending it to the right state
Thank you all for the advice. I’ll keep on posting updates[quoted image]

yep, NC on that one, as well as the slam switch on the door. Many times I see these switches removed or bypassed

#9 1 year ago
Quoted from pinhead52:

yep, NC on that one, as well as the slam switch on the door. Many times I see these switches removed or bypassed

Slam switch on the door is bypassed

#10 1 year ago

Now that I know 25V is available I want to make sure all the switches are in the correct state before powering up.

When I look at the control bar and manually work the armatures, not much is happening with the switches on them.

If anyone owns a working Soccer, can you send me a photo of how the control bars are setup?

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#11 1 year ago
Quoted from Peruman:

Now that I know 25V is available I want to make sure all the switches are in the correct state before powering up.
When I look at the control bar and manually work the armatures, not much is happening with the switches on them.
If anyone owns a working Soccer, can you send me a photo of how the control bars are setup?[quoted image]

Peruman,

The state of the switches with the game off isn't really important. When you start a game and the arm resets the bank, all the relays will lock into the same state regardless of what position they started at. If you manually pressed the bar down you've already locked all the relays into the same position.

I would just plug it in and try to start a game and go from there.

#12 1 year ago
Quoted from Peruman:

I want to make sure all the switches are in the correct state

Quoted from edednedy:

The state of the switches with the game off isn't really important.

Quoted from edednedy:

I would just plug it in and try to start a game and go from there.

Agreed

#13 1 year ago

HowardR and edednedy , I followed your advice and closed that switch and fired up the machine. The scoring motor is alive! Not much else happens after that, but it's another step in the right direction. More work to follow this weekend.

Thank you!

Alberto

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