(Topic ID: 310446)

Gottlieb SO76 Ball Eject Issue

By Gottlieb_Pinball

2 years ago


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  • 11 posts
  • 3 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 2 years ago by paulace
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    sof76 n switch (resized).JPG
    sof76 player unit (resized).JPG
    sof76 n relay (resized).JPG
    SO76 (resized).JPG
    #1 2 years ago

    Hi everyone, I have a S076 that I've owned for almost 20 years that has started giving me problems. Up until now, it's been rock solid with zero problems but one issue that came up recently with the Double Bonus countdown at the end of a game has now turned into multiple issues.

    The problem started off with the Double Bonus light only coming on dimly for the last ball. I check the bulb, all good, and then determined that the LB relay was not pulling in all the way. I cleaned and adjusted, and that solved the problem.

    Then, while playing a game shortly thereafter, I noticed that the bonus countdown wasn't accurately scoring. It was adding more to the score than it should have. I traced that down to a janky switch in the "E" relay which then solved that problem. I confirmed the Bonus was now scoring correctly in all scenarios.

    I played a few more games and everything was working perfectly but then I noticed that at the end of a ball, 10 points was being added to the 2nd player score reel, even though the game was started as one player only. Weird.

    Then, upon starting another game, the ball stopped ejecting into the shooter lane. I did some searching and checked switches on literally every relay on the bottom board to make sure they were all set correctly and all NC switches were making good contact, but my problem still persists.

    I also checked and cleaned the zero-position switch on the bonus unit. I did the same with the P5A and P5B switches on the Player unit. Neither of those made any difference.

    Here's what happens: I press the replay (start) button and everything resets as it should - all score reels go to zero on all players, motor stops spinning, ball 1 shows on the backglass, but the ball doesn't eject.

    Now, if I manually activate the "O" relay, the ball return (eject hole) fires, so it seems that particular relay is not firing when it should. While testing, I also discovered that when I trigger a playfield switch to score 10 points, the 10-point chime coil stays stuck on and no score is registered on the score reel. I'm guessing this is a related problem? The 500 and 1000 playfield switches register correctly on the score reels, so I don't have an issue with those.

    I'd say I know my way around the game but I'm no genius when it comes to reading schematics, so I could really use some help here please.

    #2 2 years ago

    When in doubt, blame AX... check the switch on AX that's in the O relay path - see if that kicks out ball 1. Or maybe just walk a jumper down that path, bypassing each switch, one at a time.

    #3 2 years ago

    Let's start with your ball not ejecting when it drains. The path that fires the O relay is highlighted in red in this snippet:

    SO76 (resized).JPGSO76 (resized).JPG

    There are quite a few switches involved, but a jumper would help you narrow it down quickly. Make sure all the switches highlighted have clean contacts that open clearly and close with a small wiping motion, and that all the solder joints are good.

    And DaMoib is right, those AX, BX relays are touchy little things. Have to look at them very carefully.

    #4 2 years ago

    Thanks paulace and DaMoib. I did check the AX and most of the switches highlighted in red, but will check again. This is very helpful, thank you. I'll dig in again and report back with my findings.

    Quoted from paulace:

    Let's start with your ball not ejecting when it drains. The path that fires the O relay is highlighted in red in this snippet:
    [quoted image]
    There are quite a few switches involved, but a jumper would help you narrow it down quickly. Make sure all the switches highlighted have clean contacts that open clearly and close with a small wiping motion, and that all the solder joints are good.

    #5 2 years ago

    Update - I used a jumper and traced the ball eject problem to SL+WH switch on the "J" relay, so THANK YOU for your guidance regarding the schematic.

    Now, I still have the 10 point problem where I trigger a playfield switch to score 10 points and the 10-point chime coil stays stuck on and no score is registered on the score reel.

    I also noticed that after ball #1 finishes , the ball ejects but the game is not advancing to ball #2.

    Any ideas are appreciated.

    #6 2 years ago

    I'd guess your 10 pt problem is a switch that is on the 10 pt score reel. It's a normally closed switch that should open when the plunger pulls in. That switch cuts the power to the N relay, and thus the chime and 10 pt. coil.

    sof76 n relay (resized).JPGsof76 n relay (resized).JPG
    #7 2 years ago

    This is the circuit that should move the machine to ball 2 after the first ball drains (I've removed everything that isn't germane to that function):

    sof76 player unit (resized).JPGsof76 player unit (resized).JPG

    In the snippet above, the U switch (on the 1st Ball Relay) should be closed if you've scored any points. The P switch will close when the ball closes the trough switch.

    Listen to what the player unit in the head is doing. If you're playing a one-player game, it should fire 4 times after your ball drains and gets kicked back out to the shooter lane (where it closes the trough switch). The trough switch energizes the P relay, which closes the switch shown above and starts the score motor turning. On a one-player game, those moveable double-headed connectors (on the Coin Unit) are as shown in the schematic, so 4 of the pulses from Motor 1A in the snippet above should fire the "Add Player Unit" coil shown. That should move the player unit 4 times and that should get you to Player 1 - Ball 2.

    If you're not hearing any movement of the player unit when the ball closes the trough switch, one of those switches is open that shouldn't be. In addition to the switches shown here, check your trough switch too.

    #8 2 years ago

    Hi @paulace, thanks for the info. So far I found the switch on the 10 pt score reel that wasn't opening, so the "N" rely is no longer locking on and the 10pt chime is working correctly, but the score reel is not registering the 10 points. Is that another problem switch on the score reel itself?

    I'm out of time today but will follow your instruction for fixing the advance to ball #2 and follow up here. Thank you again!

    #9 2 years ago

    Since the machine zero's out correctly during reset, we know the coil is good. I'm also going to assume your N relay is energizing since your chime is working.

    So there are 2 switches you should check:

    sof76 n switch (resized).JPGsof76 n switch (resized).JPG

    The N switch is on the N relay - use the wire colors to identify it. The P1D switch is in the player unit in the head. And the related solder joints and wires, of course.

    #10 2 years ago

    Hi @paulace, I was able to fix both of the remaining issues with your clear explanation regarding the schematics, and I can't thank you enough!

    The BL-YEL switch wasn't making on the "N" relay, so cleaning and adjusting it now has the 10 pt score reel registering points again.

    The ball not advancing was a bit trickier to solve, but once again the way you explained how to follow the path to the Add Player Unit helped me narrow it down. Your advice about listening to the player unit was spot on (there was no movement), and it turned out to be an open switch on the "P" relay.

    Now the game is back to perfect working order. Thank you so much, I am very grateful for your help!

    #11 2 years ago

    Glad you got it going again. Great game!

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