(Topic ID: 291432)

Gottlieb Slick Chick - Help Needed

By megoman

2 years ago


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  • 55 posts
  • 9 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 2 years ago by baldtwit
  • Topic is favorited by 1 Pinsider

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#8 2 years ago
Quoted from megoman:

Howard suggested I check switches on motor line per the schematic (D,W,A,DB,Z,O). Unfortunately not all the relays are labeled. Attached are 2 photos showing what is not labeled (forward 3 relays in cabinet and the bank of replays under playfield). Would appreciate if someone could help me identify.

The schematic identifies all of the wire colors which should help you identify the relays with missing labels. In @howardr's schematic above for example the R relay coil has a black wire on one solder lug and a red-white wire on the other solder lug. Most coils will have one black wire but the other wire is likely to be unique to each relay coil.

The wire colors on the schematic will also help you identify specific switches once you've found the relays. The schematic above shows that all of the switches that can run the Score Motor connect a slate-black wire to a red-white wire, because they're wired in parallel.

/Mark

#13 2 years ago
Quoted from megoman:

game is not powering up after the 1/4 motor turn and W relay pulse.

Not sure what you mean by W relay pulse. Does it only pulse while the 25 cent switch is closed or does it stay on while the Score Motor turns through 1/3 turn?

When the 25 cent switch closes the W relay should fire which sends 120 volts into the transformer (unless the game has already been powered up). Once the transformer is powered up the R relay (red-white and black wires on the coil lugs) should fire and stay on as long as there's power to the transformer.

A normally open switch on the W relay closes when the relay fires which sends power to the Score Motor as shown in @howardr's schematic. The Score Motor should run through 1/3 turn and at the very end the W relay should relax just before the motor stops. What to look for next depends on whether the R relay fires.

Beware that the 25 cent switch, the W relay and related circuits are all running at 120 volts. If you don't have a correctly installed polarized plug on this game (which wouldn't have come on it originally) there could be 120 volts running around even when the game is off. I'd recommend unplugging the game while you poke around looking for issues, and using a wooden dowel or something similar to activate switches when the game is plugged in.

#15 2 years ago

I think the 25 cent switch should only wake up the game (if it doesn't already have power) and add 3-5 credits with the help of the Score Motor to the replay unit. That's it. It doesn't start a new game.

Once the R relay (in red) fires, it should close a switch (in red) to keep the 120 volts connected to the transformer. Sounds like that's not happening so have a close look at that switch (red wire to black wire) with the game unplugged.
Slick Chick R relay (resized).jpgSlick Chick R relay (resized).jpg
To start a game you need to press the Replay Button or close the Coin Chute switch which should trip the SB relay in the trip relay bank and start the reset sequence.

#17 2 years ago
Quoted from megoman:

Upon plug in nothing happens (no lights).

That's right. Nothing happens. That's the expected behavior.

Look at the schematic. There's no way for power to get to the transformer until a coin is dropped or the Replay button is pushed. Either the W relay switch or the SB relay switch on the left side of the schematic needs to close first to connect the transformer to power. The R relay fires once the transformer gets power and closes its switch to keep the power coming, but it doesn't supply the initial power.

Quoted from megoman:

Next action should be Start Relay (SB), but it is not firing. The schematic shows all of these after the Replay Button - motor 1C / Zero Replay Unit / W / On Ball Release as “conditions” needed to activate the Start Relay.

If you can find and close the Coin switch (presumably on the other coin chute) that skips the Replay button, Motor 1C and Credit Unit Zero switches leaving just three other switches that should already be closed (don't forget the switch on the SB relay). If the Coin switch starts a game but the Replay button doesn't you know that the issue is not in the part of the SB relay circuit that is shared with the Coin switch path.

Quoted from megoman:

the game was working when I first picked up (Push Replay and new game started). Not everything was working 100% so I cleaned all the contacts on the game and that’s when these latest issues started.

Sadly that's a common mistake. Unless you're restoring the game from the ground up it's usually safer to clean just a few switches, then check that things still work, then clean a few more. Better yet, don't clean any switches unless you're chasing a specific problem. Properly adjusted switches are self cleaning and don't need to be cleaned regularly.

2 months later
#27 2 years ago

Here are the five switches and wire colors (all in red) from the schematic:
Slick Chick D relay switches (resized).jpgSlick Chick D relay switches (resized).jpg

#29 2 years ago
Quoted from megoman:

So I swapped those 2 wires on the bottom switches and the 3 targets + 2 rollovers that spot Slick/Chick/Slick Chick are working correctly and driving correct actions.

Kudos to @baldtwit. I don't usually look for rewiring.

Quoted from megoman:

After Slick + Chick are completed, the playfield bank should reset (the letter lights back on). This is not happening.
On the schematic (H13) is the Reset Sequence Bank coil. This is activated by the motor (at start of game // with new ball???) or the J relay (Advance Unit relay).

You've pretty much described what should happen.
Slick Chick J relay (resized).jpgSlick Chick J relay (resized).jpg
Since you have to get the letters in each word in order, you're not done until the K in Slick (relay 5B) and the other K in Chick (relay 9B) have tripped. Once that happens the path to the J relay is complete and it should fire which in turn should fire the Add Advance Unit.

The schematics I use are either from IPDB or from my own files. You can get a scan done for a few bucks at your favorite big box office store. A good scan is much more helpful than photos.

#31 2 years ago

All four switches need to close. The B and Motor 1C switches should be normally closed but they could be the problem. Jumper around the switches to find the culprit(s).

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