Well I've finally gotten around to try to revive my Gottlieb Sinbad SS. I bought it from a good friend's widow who had it in their home since it was pulled off a route back in the 80s. It looked like the glass had never been off since they owned it. In fact the beer seal was permanently adhered to the glass! The playfield and backglass are in great shape and I've cleaned everything and put new rubber everywhere. The cpu had acid damage all over the J6 plug. The operator had soldered the wiring directly to the board at the J5, J6 and J7 connectors. I decided to go with new Ni-wumph cpu and driver board as well as a new power supply board...all from Steve Young. I got new connectors from docent and I repinned J6 and J7. Docent had a new connector from the power supply board to cpu board and from J5 to the driver board.

I was going through the start-up checks listed on pinrepair.com. I found that the left bridge rectifier was .750 and the right was .650. They both seem to read out of the acceptable .4-.6 range so I've ordered replacements. All of my voltages are good from the new power supply so I continued to add connectors. I have 1 display that is very dim so I plan to recharge it once I get the pin to "boot up."

I've noticed some discrepancies in the wiring of my machine and the manual. I am missing a brown wire on plug 4 on connector A1-J7 whose function is strobe 2. I'm also missing a green wire on plug 7 on the same connector whose function is strobe 3. I took a picture of the switch matrix diagram page in the manual. I can't see where these 2 wires are located in the game or if they were in the game at all.

Upon power up, the display shows Game (display 1) Select (display 2) Cleo (display 3). Display 4 id unplugged currently since it needs recharging. There is no response to pushing the start button or menu button to change the game title to Sinbad. It's just a frozen screen.

I'd love some ideas on where to go from here. I don't know if the bad bridge rectifier would cause this or not and I'm lost on the missing wires. Thanks for your input!

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Flippers are dead also. Forgot to mention that. The picture of the displays doesn't show display 2 and 3 but they were illuminated. Yes, Cleo is Cleopatra.

No luck with holding the start button either. Interestingly enough, I enjoy hearing the chimes each time I power the game on. At least I know they seem to work. Any other ideas??

I tried it with A1J7 disconnected....no luck. I do have continuity from the start switch all the way to the pins on the board. I check the switch function and the male end of the large connector near the tilt mechanism which showed good continuity when the start button is pressed. Thanks for clearing up the unused wiring. Weird that they would print that in the manual. Confusing for a novice like me!

I read in a google search about some older Ni-wumph boards having issues with new power supply boards. I don't know if that is a possibility or not. I bought this board last year from steve young but have just now had the time to work on it.

I have been pressing the start button primarily, but I've also pressed the test/menu button with no response. I'll go check continuity on that switch and report back......very frustrating!!

I checked continuity at the test switch and it is good at the switch as well as along the wires all the way to the pins on J6. Still scratching my head. I'm in communication with Ni-wumph as well.

Yes, those are the nice connectors from Docent electronics. What do I need to check on the tilt?

The coin switches both appear normally closed then open when a coin drops. Is this not correct?

Gotcha, I'll check when I get back home. I'm out of town until Sunday. Thanks for all you guys help!

Ok, i've been able to check some things out. The coin switches are in fact both open as they should be. It appears the coin lockout coil activates upon power up as well. I can physically move the arm from this coil but I feel resistance from it. The previous owner had a "free play switch" wired into the wiring of the first coin slot wiring, which I soldered back together removing the extra switch. Continuity tests were performed after this was removed, but please look over all of my wiring for any opinions....IMG_2009.jpgIMG_2010.jpgIMG_2011.jpgIMG_2012.jpg

Next, I looked at the slam switch on the door which is closed as well as the anti-cheat tilt ball, which is also closed.IMG_2013.JPGIMG_2014.JPG

I also found the top 2 wires on the tilt relay disconnected when I was originally going over the game. I resoldered them back, but I'm now wondering if they go where I soldered them. They appeared to be from the tilt relay at the top right side of the upper switch. I removed some of the excess solder from my sloppy work, but I now wonder if these wires actually go in the spot I soldered them. It's the double brown with red stripe wires.IMG_2015.jpgIMG_2016.jpgIMG_2017.jpgIMG_2018.jpgIMG_2019.jpgIMG_2020.jpgIMG_2021.jpg

Keep it coming guys....I hope this is fun for someone out there!

Mid day bump. I was told I may need to send the board in to Niwumph for them to check it to make sure it's ok.

bump....

Update: The Board was checked and found to be ok. David said it must be in the wiring or the diodes. So....I got to looking at my repinned A1J6 and A1J7 connectors and realized that I pinned them backwards. So I repinned them again correctly and plugged in J6 first and was able to select the game title. So I powered off the game and finished pinning J7. I plugged it up and the game did not let me pick Sinbad from the menu. It went straight into attract mode of some game. I noticed all playfield lights are lighting up in this attract mode. I tried the test menu and was able to cycle through the menu once but I was unable to change any of the settings. I was able to see that each of the 4 displays for players work, but I never saw the credit display lit. In the Niwumph manual, it says that a bad display can blow something on the board. Now the game shows a 0 in the first player display and the test button does nothing. Nothing from the start button or when dropping a quarter. On power up, the game shows the following message: Player 1 display: P-Rev; Player 2 display: 1-46; Player 3 display: 6-Rev; Player 4 display: 1-00. I've e-mailed David at Ni-wumph for input. Any of you guys have any suggestions?

Not yet. I repinned or replaced all connectors except the ones to the displays, which all work. I wasn't able to get the new board to recognize any inputs from the front door test switch or start button. I believe the board is locked into Cleopatra. I have the game at a technicians warehouse now awaiting its turn to see if they can further troubleshoot it. There are about 8 machines ahead of it.

Well, the technician found that the coin door lockout coil bar was touching the coin switches causing a weird grounding problem. He removed the coin mechs and the lockout bar from the lockout coil assembly and the game works great. I did find a software bug with the Niwumph board that causes the game to freeze during a big ball where you have a bonus collect going on during the ball in play. I replaced it with a pascal jannin board and have had no problems since then.