Sherwood, OR
If I turn off the machine and manually reset them then turn it back on and start a game and manually drop them, they will score but once the ball drains they won't reset. Could a blown fuse be the culprit? Thanks for the help.
(Topic ID: 53713)
All of the controlled solenoids are run off one fuse, so if the other ones work its not a fuse issue. Check the diode on the coil, and check the transistor on the driver board. Also, check the switch wiring and diodes to make sure they are good. Do you have a manual/schematics?
That drop target bank =may= be driven by an under playfield 2N5875 (or equivalent) transistor. I don't have schematics in front of me to verify. If so, it will be "predriven" by a transistor on the driver board. If not, then it's probably solenoid 8, which is driven by the can transistor (a 2N3055) on the driver board.
Step 1...do you have power at the coil?
Start a game.
Remove the ball.
Raise the PF vertical.
DMM set to DC voltage.
Black lead on ground strap in game bottom.
Red lead on either coil lug.
You should read coil voltage at both lugs.
If you read no voltage at either lug, test another coil in the same way, to ensure that you are measuring correctly.
If measuring correctly and still no voltage at either lug, then you'll need to track down where the source power is being interrupted to that coil. Power is "daisy-chained" through all of the PF coils. Find the break.
If measuring correctly and you have voltage at only 1 lug, then the coil is "open", and needs to be repaired (if you can fish out the broken wire) or replaced. If you have to remove the coil, clip the coil wire leaving just enough insulation to ensure you can wire the new coil correctly as diode band orientation is critically important.
Next step...game off...measure the resistance (ohms) between the coil's lugs. Anything above 2 ohms is OK. Anything less, and the coil is shorted, or close to being shorted, and should be replaced. It's also possible that the coil diode is shorted. You can test the diode with your meter's diode test. You may have to remove the diode to test it. If this is the case, just cut it off and replace it, paying attention to band orientation.
Once you have voltage at both lugs, and you've verified that the coil is good, the next step is to see if the path from the "drive" transistor to the coil is good.
Once again...start game...
With a length of wire, clip one end of the wire to the backbox ground plain. Anywhere on the metal backbox will work. BRIEFLY, touch the other end of the wire to the "tab" of the drive transistor. If the bank is really driven as solenoid 8, simply touch the wire to the "can" of the big TO-3 case transistor on the driver board.
If the coils fires, then you've verified the path from the coil to the drive transistor. If not, then that path has an issue...like a poor connection at the card edge.
Assuming the coil fired, the next step is to test the transistor with your DMM, using diode test...
Carry on soldier...Let us know why you find out.
--
Chris Hibler - CARGPB #31
http://www.Team-EM.com
http://webpages.charter.net/chibler/Pinball/index.htm
http://www.PinWiki.com - The Place to go for Pinball Repair Info
A good friend with the manual told me that this title doesn't use underPF transistors.
--
Chris Hibler - CARGPB #31
http://www.Team-EM.com
http://webpages.charter.net/chibler/Pinball/index.htm
http://www.PinWiki.com - The new place for pinball repair info
^^no it doesnt.
I would drop one target at a time manually, make sure they all score first. Its possible you have one thats not triggering the target switch so the machine doesnt know they are all dropped. Start simple, work backwards.
Quoted from pinstyle:Start simple, work backwards.
Always good policy. 
Quoted from pinstyle:I would drop one target at a time manually, make sure they all score first.
Exactly my council, had the OP not already stated that they all score. Still...a good step to complete.
--
Chris Hibler - CARGPB #31
http://www.Team-EM.com
http://webpages.charter.net/chibler/Pinball/index.htm
http://www.PinWiki.com - The new place for pinball repair info
According to the schematics the red target bank has a 2A SLO BLO fuse in series (GR-YEL and RED). Check that first.
4 years later
Kristianstad
6 years later
Aurora, ON
ChrisHibler Thank you! With the combination of your ten year old trouble shooting post and your YouTube video (
), you helped me solve my Sinbad target reset issue.
Quoted from ChrisHibler:That drop target bank =may= be driven by an under playfield 2N5875 (or equivalent) transistor. I don't have schematics in front of me to verify. If so, it will be "predriven" by a transistor on the driver board. If not, then it's probably solenoid 8, which is driven by the can transistor (a 2N3055) on the driver board.
Step 1...do you have power at the coil?
Start a game.
Remove the ball.
Raise the PF vertical.
DMM set to DC voltage.
Black lead on ground strap in game bottom.
Red lead on either coil lug.
You should read coil voltage at both lugs.
If you read no voltage at either lug, test another coil in the same way, to ensure that you are measuring correctly.
If measuring correctly and still no voltage at either lug, then you'll need to track down where the source power is being interrupted to that coil. Power is "daisy-chained" through all of the PF coils. Find the break.
If measuring correctly and you have voltage at only 1 lug, then the coil is "open", and needs to be repaired (if you can fish out the broken wire) or replaced. If you have to remove the coil, clip the coil wire leaving just enough insulation to ensure you can wire the new coil correctly as diode band orientation is critically important.
Next step...game off...measure the resistance (ohms) between the coil's lugs. Anything above 2 ohms is OK. Anything less, and the coil is shorted, or close to being shorted, and should be replaced. It's also possible that the coil diode is shorted. You can test the diode with your meter's diode test. You may have to remove the diode to test it. If this is the case, just cut it off and replace it, paying attention to band orientation.
Once you have voltage at both lugs, and you've verified that the coil is good, the next step is to see if the path from the "drive" transistor to the coil is good.
Once again...start game...
With a length of wire, clip one end of the wire to the backbox ground plain. Anywhere on the metal backbox will work. BRIEFLY, touch the other end of the wire to the "tab" of the drive transistor. If the bank is really driven as solenoid 8, simply touch the wire to the "can" of the big TO-3 case transistor on the driver board.
If the coils fires, then you've verified the path from the coil to the drive transistor. If not, then that path has an issue...like a poor connection at the card edge.
Assuming the coil fired, the next step is to test the transistor with your DMM, using diode test...
Carry on soldier...Let us know why you find out.
--
Chris Hibler - CARGPB #31
http://www.Team-EM.com
http://webpages.charter.net/chibler/Pinball/index.htm
http://www.PinWiki.com - The Place to go for Pinball Repair Info
LJ666 Awesome!
—
Chris Hibler - CARGPB #31
Http://chrishiblerpinball.com/contact
Thank you for checking out the PinWiki - http://www.PinWiki.com/
1 week later
ChrisHibler the transistor on the driver board is a 2N3055B. I just replaced it with a 2N3055G and I’m hoping that is ok. It is measuring .531 on the diode test vs the original I think you mentioned measured around .5. Is the higher measurement ok?
The different measurement is inconsequential.
—
Chris Hibler - CARGPB #31 http://www.ChrisHiblerPinball.com/Contact https://www.youtube.com/c/ChrisHiblerPinball http://www.PinWiki.com - The Place to go for Pinball Repair Info
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