(Topic ID: 135792)

Gottlieb Score Reel Problems

By supermatt

8 years ago


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#1 8 years ago

I'm working on getting a Gottlieb Kingpin up and running. When turning the machine on, the ten thousand reel just keeps spinning even without pressing the start button. When pressing the start button the others don't reset and the first reel keeps going. I am including pictures of the switches on the reels at the zero position, the 1-8 position and the 9 position. Can anyone tell by looking if these look right for these positions?pinball 221.jpgpinball 221.jpgpinball 224.jpgpinball 224.jpgpinball 227.jpgpinball 227.jpgpinball 221.jpgpinball 221.jpgpinball 221.jpgpinball 221.jpg

#2 8 years ago

Any playfield feature stuck on?

#3 8 years ago

Doesn't appear to be anything stuck on. If there was, wouldn't that score relay also be constantly energized as well? Can anyone confirm if the pictures of the switches look right?

#4 8 years ago

Those look like the correct positions, except the 2nd photo where they are all open...what position is that? They could be in the correct position and dirty as well--assuming you've given them a good cleaning. What's the reel next to it look like?

#5 8 years ago
Quoted from supermatt:

the 1-8 position

the middle switch should be closed in this position (and doesn't appear to be).

#6 8 years ago

In regard to the last two posts, the second photo is the 1-8 position which DirtFlipper said should be closed and they are definitely open. All the reels seem to look alike in all positions. They may have been badly adjusted at some point. I am assuming that when 1-8 are closed that 0 and 9 should be open. However, I read in the online repair guides that zero switch should be open at zero. This doesn't make sense because it seems like it should be closed at zero and open when 1-8 closes. Any thoughts?

#7 8 years ago

0=Bottom closed, others open

#8 8 years ago

1-8= middle closed, others open

#9 8 years ago

9=bottom open, other 2 closed

#10 8 years ago

bottom being the far right in your pics

#11 8 years ago
Quoted from supermatt:

This doesn't make sense because it seems like it should be closed at zero and open when 1-8 closes. Any thoughts?

There are a couple different score reel switch stack setups with Gottliebs, which do have different combos of what's open/closed for reset and zero. But the style in your picture is the one that has zero position closed at zero.

#12 8 years ago

Hi supermatt
maybe I am the only one - You announce 3 pics (Zero-Pos / 1-8-Pos / 9-Pos) but you show 5 pictures. What / which is what / which ?
Do you have a schema ? (to look up switches / position) Greetings Rolf

#13 8 years ago
Quoted from rolf_martin_062:

What / which is what / which ?

The image "pinball 221.jpg" is shown three times (first, fourth, fifth), and is the zero position.

#14 8 years ago

It looks like just adjust center switch closed in 1-8 and you'll be good?

#15 8 years ago

The fourth and fifth pics are the same as the first. They got added in by mistake. Took a couple of days off from working on it but I'm going to get back into it soon. I'll adjust the middle switch and see what happens. I'll post results on how it works out.

1 week later
#16 8 years ago

Back working on it again. I have the switches adjusted pretty good on three of the four reels. I also found these two disconnected wires on the ten thousand reel. Does anyone know which lugs they go on? The wires are faded but one appears to be blue and black stripe and the other looks like either red or orange with blue or black. The lugs that are open are zero, one, two and four. Thanks in advance.

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#17 8 years ago

Sometimes you can tell from the "muscle memory" of the wires in terms of how they're bent which way they go. It's only two wires, so you have a 50/50 chance of getting it right and, if not, you just unsolder and re-solder. My guess would be the blue-black goes on the 1 and the other on the 2, but obviously don't know for sure.

#18 8 years ago
Quoted from supermatt:

Back working on it again. I have the switches adjusted pretty good on three of the four reels. I also found these two disconnected wires on the ten thousand reel. Does anyone know which lugs they go on? The wires are faded but one appears to be blue and black stripe and the other looks like either red or orange with blue or black. The lugs that are open are zero, one, two and four. Thanks in advance.

pinball_228.jpg

Clearly shown if you have schematic

#19 8 years ago

Where are the other two wires?

#20 8 years ago

I think you may be able to look at the point score adjustment plugs and see which wires go to which lug on the PCB. Each point score plug wire should have a little number on it, and that number should be the wire that goes back to the 10,000 reel. A quick check with a meter will tell you if the wires match per number.

#21 8 years ago

Don't have schematics. The other two wires are on the C and 3 lugs if that's what you mean.

#22 8 years ago
Quoted from supermatt:

The other two wires are on the C and 3 lugs if that's what you mean

There are four open lugs, but only two loose wires, right? Where are the other two wires for the lugs? (four lugs, need four wires)

#23 8 years ago
Quoted from supermatt:

Don't have schematics.

http://www.pbresource.com/mansch.html

Best to have the schematics.

#24 8 years ago
Quoted from DirtFlipper:

I think you may be able to look at the point score adjustment plugs and see which wires go to which lug on the PCB. Each point score plug wire should have a little number on it, and that number should be the wire that goes back to the 10,000 reel. A quick check with a meter will tell you if the wires match per number.

Tried this and it worked. Score reel re-setting to zero now. Now I just have to figure out the hundreds reel. This reel doesn't have a PCB. I've seen pics online and it didn't have one either. Is this normal? Thanks

#25 8 years ago
Quoted from supermatt:

Tried this and it worked. Score reel re-setting to zero now. Now I just have to figure out the hundreds reel. This reel doesn't have a PCB. I've seen pics online and it didn't have one either. Is this normal? Thanks

PCB has nothing to do with reels resetting to zero. PCB leads just relate to free game score setting.
Again, clearly shown on schematics.
No PCB on 100's is normal.

#26 8 years ago
Quoted from DirtFlipper:

There are four open lugs, but only two loose wires, right? Where are the other two wires for the lugs? (four lugs, need four wires)

Actually, never mind this. 0 and 1 aren't used for the high score, so won't have wires. The score adjustment plugs will be 2-9 only.

#27 8 years ago

Yes, since the 100s isn't used for Match or High Score, no need for a PCB on it.

#28 8 years ago

Everything is working fine now. Score reels are re-setting and it's starting a game. Sometimes the 100s will still reset to a random number but it will still start a game. I suspect a switch may still be slightly out of adjustment or the return spring may need more tension as sometimes when I manually advance the reel, the plunger can be a little slow to retract. Does that sound logical or should I be checking other things?

#29 8 years ago
Quoted from supermatt:

Sometimes the 100s will still reset to a random number but it will still start a game.

Still check the runout and zero position switches on it.

#30 8 years ago
Quoted from supermatt:

when I manually advance the reel, the plunger can be a little slow to retract. Does that sound logical or should I be checking other things?

Gummed up probably. Clean it and put in a new coil sleeve.

2 months later
#31 8 years ago

I pretty much have all the problems fixed. The last thing stumping me is that the 100's reel will reset perfectly whenever it's on a number other than 1 or 2. Whenever it's on those numbers it gives an initial jump like it wants to reset but it wont move after that. If I give the reel a little jiggle it starts to move and resets. It was doing this on 8 as well for a while but that seems to have fixed itself. Any ideas. Thanks in advance.

#32 8 years ago

reel contacts, one of the contacts is supposed to be closed for anything but zero and the score motor drives the reel thru this contact. clean and gap.

Summary, 3 contacts on each reel except the top one, 1 contact closed at zero to signal reset complete, 1 contact closed at anything but zero to be driven by score motor during reset... and then the 9s rollover closed at....

#33 8 years ago
Quoted from supermatt:

Whenever it's on those numbers it gives an initial jump like it wants to reset but it wont move after that.

I'd still look at the runout switch. It's the middle switch of the switch stack, and needs to be closed when the reel isn't on zero. Sounds like it's marginal until the reel reaches 3, perhaps.

#34 8 years ago

I looked at and adjusted the switches again and they are all resetting now. However, after fixing that problem, another problem came up. After the reels reset and the ball kicks to the shooter lane, the tens reel energizes and locks on kind of like a switch is stuck on. But no 10's switches are stuck. It energizes right as it hits the shooter lane switch. It did this another time briefly but went away on it's own. Any ideas on this one? Thanks

#35 8 years ago

If the 10's reel is stuck on, then I'd assume that the 10pt relay is also stuck on (N relay in the backbox). Since it's happening when the ball enters the shooter lane, that suggests it is a stuck 10 point feature. (When the ball enters the shooter lane, the Ball Count unit advances from the zero position, which activates the playfield.) You can confirm that it's a stuck scoring feature on the playfield by unplugging the small Jones plug that runs from the playfield to the backbox. If the problem goes away, then the signal is coming from the playfield.

In addition to switches stuck at the contact points though, need to also consider the back tabs of switches getting pushed together, or the backing blades creating a short. Here's some info on the backing blade possibility:

[Edit: corrected link to post]
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/gottlieb-em-tech-tip-mystery-stuck-switches

#36 8 years ago

I think you're right about the problem coming from the play field. I unplugged the jones plug and the problem stopped. I looked over all the switches and they look ok as far as I can tell. Also, when the switch is locked on, the slingshots still give a weak response when hit. The upper ten point switches don't do anything. Does this give any clues as to what switch the problem could be coming from? Thanks

#37 8 years ago

The slingshots fire the kicker coil from the switches behind the rubber rings; the scoring switch is underneath the playfield on those (below the kicker arm). So the kickers will still work, but may not score.

But I also noted I gave the wrong link to my previous post (which I've now corrected).

It can be subtle where things are touching, so just need to keep searching for it.

#38 8 years ago

I looked at the switches again and haven't found anything touching as best as I can see. However, one of the switch blades has snapped off at the back tab where it goes into the Bakelite stack. I think I did this while checking it and that it was ok previously. My question is can I substitute a switch of the same style from another play field that I have laying around. The only difference is the other switch is from a Bally game of the same time period. I'm guessing a switch is switch and that it's ok but I figured I'd ask first. Thanks for all your help.

#39 8 years ago

As long as the length is about the same and the contacts line up, it will work. Nice to have the same size contacts though.

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