Quoted from mrm_4:

Trying reseating the PROM1 chip or gently pressing on the daughter board while turning it on. Could be issues with the solder joints. I’m having similar booting issues with my 80b game because of that.

Quoted from JodyG:

Blowing all the fuses like that seems odd. I would go over the underside of the playfield carefully and make sure you have no shorts in the wiring. Do the fuses blow when you change them? Also verify you have exactly 5v coming out of the power supply in the backbox. Verify your bridge recifiers are not blown. You may need to desolder the wires from them to test them accurately.

Quoted from mrm_4:

You’re right that is odd. With my gold wings the fuse kept blowing for the knocker. I checked everything on the board and couldn’t find the issue. What I ended up finding was on the coil someone replaced the diode as it looked different than all the other ones. The band was facing the wrong side. I flipped the diode according to the schematics and problem solved. So long story short. You may want to double check the diodes for all the coils blowing fuses. Other than that solder slashes are always my favorite thing to find. Especially if someone else did a bunch of work on this machine before you got it.

Quoted from RandomTask:

With all the blown fuses that's odd. I'm lead to believe that maybe the driver board is not working. Maybe try looking it over for burnt components or poor quality solder repairs. I can see a sketchy looking component on the driver board pictures above. The brown resistor between the two button transitors.
I ended up buying a Rotten Dog driver board, that solved a bunch of my issues. It also had a direct ground on it.
Also I'd check the 5v at the board from the power supply in the back box. Making sure the boards are getting 5v. Todd Tuckey has a video on checking that Ina video called "reflowing solder on power supply" or something.

Quoted from mrm_4:

Its totally possible someone worked on all coils but not likely. I just like to point out the easiest things first. Out of all of the issues I’ve had that make me bonkers trying to figure out the fix, I’ll turn to the forums and get 20 million suggestions and get told with extreme confidence that it’s either A, B, or C and I need to buy logic probes and get an engineering degree....and it ends up being the simplest thing. Like a solder splash or a loose component touching something or a screw came out and it’s wedges between pieces.
Always consider what everyone else suggests for sure but sometimes I like to just remind myself to make sure to cover the little stuff.
Definitely following this thread I hope you find it soon and it’s not a major headache.

Quoted from crlush:

To get it working your going to want to get a manual, it will help you a great deal with system 80b. To start unplug the wires coming out of power supply going to the mpu and check the power on the power supply for 5volts. Almost every system 80b there were cracked solder joints so I always reflow the pins and tighten the transistor screws also on all the boards, thats how the get ground. Here is a pic
[quoted image]

Quoted from crlush:

Great planes electronics, pinball life or pinball resource .

Quoted from JodyG:

Its definitely not okay, but you can get new ones from Arrow.com for literally pennies with free next day shipping.

Quoted from psd4me:

Yes those displays have that spot on them. Mike

Quoted from Palmer:

The first things I always do with 80b games is rebuild the power supply, do the ground mod (in cabinet and running dedicated ground for each board), clean all board edges with an eraser , and check the edge connectors (repair and replace when needed). Doing that takes a lot of the flakeyness out of the machine.

Quoted from minnesota13:

Forget about the driver board until you have the CPU booting consistently. So disconnect the driver board and focus on getting a good 5VDC. The capacitor on the power unit in the bottom of the game should be replaced if it hasn't been done recently.
It looks like some ground mods have been done at the power unit in the bottom of the game.
So focus on the power supply in the head. You should have a copy of the manual to review the schematics to make voltage measurements to the power supply. My memory is foggy on the input voltage, but I believe it to be around 12VDC. A common
failure point is the variable resistor for adjusting the 5VDC on the power supply. Usually a good idea to replace this if there is one
on this application.
Once you have a good 5VDC connect up the PS to the CPU -- with the driver board disconnected. Also then measure the supply voltages for the displays as they will be a good indicator of a successful boot completion. Again refer to the schematics for proper voltages. The common failure point on the CPU is the daughter board. It is difficult to remove but if you are having boot problems this board should be replaced. A good alternative is the Piggy Duex:
https://www.pinitech.com/products/gottlieb_piggydeux.php

Quoted from crlush:

have you ever verified 5volts coming from power supply yet?

Quoted from pinworks:

1. Fuses blowing: If the mpu board is not coming up correctly(you have nothing on displays), no data is being sent to the control chips on the driver board. The driver board does not have a circuit to shut off the coils while waiting for the mpu to send valid data. That is why it is common for a loud clunk to be heard when a system 80 game is first turned on. Without the MPU control signals, those coils will stay locked on until the fuse blows. There is an article on PinWiki on modifying the driver board to add a circuit to shut off all the coils when the board is first turned on. You might consider making those mods to your driver board.
2. I think your MPU board is NOT coming up correctly. You need Leon's test chip. If you have a chip burner, the program code should be on PinWiki. Leon's test chip and his documentation will give you a starting point to bringing the MPU back to life.
Until the MPU is running, you are just wasting time on other stuff.

Quoted from pinworks:

1. Fuses blowing: If the mpu board is not coming up correctly(you have nothing on displays), no data is being sent to the control chips on the driver board. The driver board does not have a circuit to shut off the coils while waiting for the mpu to send valid data. That is why it is common for a loud clunk to be heard when a system 80 game is first turned on. Without the MPU control signals, those coils will stay locked on until the fuse blows. There is an article on PinWiki on modifying the driver board to add a circuit to shut off all the coils when the board is first turned on. You might consider making those mods to your driver board.
2. I think your MPU board is NOT coming up correctly. You need Leon's test chip. If you have a chip burner, the program code should be on PinWiki. Leon's test chip and his documentation will give you a starting point to bringing the MPU back to life.
Until the MPU is running, you are just wasting time on other stuff.

Quoted from BaymenCoach:

ChrisHiblerpinball.com

Quoted from minnesota13:

Make sure you have 5VDC from the power supply before you send off your MPU board. Do you have a meter?

Quoted from mrm_4:

Todd has a good video on how to test and adjust the voltage. crlush pointed out where the volts are adjusted earlier this post:
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/gottlieb-raven-system-80b-help#post-4913370

Quoted from G-P-E:

Yes...
And at least they didn't use a nail gun.
Many Gottlieb 80 series used FSTP series mounts.
https://www.greatplainselectronics.com/products.asp?cat=134

Quoted from G-P-E:

I think the actual size varies from machine to machine (depending on what 'toy's are on back panel). Usually CPU and driver boards are same height -- may need to measure one of them.