(Topic ID: 298394)

Gottlieb Premier System 80B replace the battery pack or leave it alone

By Spybryon

70 days ago


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  • 13 posts
  • 7 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 59 days ago by Tuukka
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#1 70 days ago

Having a small debate about whether this ni-cad battery pack needs to be removed or not from the MPU?

It does retain all the settings.

I say it needs to go. The date code is from 1986 07 and it seems like a ticking time bomb. About to destroy the MPU at any time.

On the other hand, 2 other people stated that it's lasted this long, so it should be good to just leave it alone. Also stated the "made in Japan" means it's high quality.

What's your opinion, leave it alone or get rid of it?

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#2 70 days ago

I would change it ASAP, there's no real benefit to leaving the original there, and every benefit to changing it to a more reliable, less destructive alternative (nvram, coin cell, off-mounted battery pack). Doesn't cost much and will save you potential headaches down the road. I know I wouldn't be able to sleep if that original battery was on there.

#3 70 days ago

I'd at least check the voltage on it first. Date code isn't good, but meter don't lie. I'd be looking for something over 3 volts. Came new with 3.6.

Not a ticking time bomb. Relax, you got this.

#4 69 days ago

Id change that out. Its quick and easy to do, and will save alot of work in the end.

#5 68 days ago

Still waiting for that voltage reading Spy. I'm betting it's over 3 volts. That was the biggest Ni-cad battery pack Gottlieb used on System 80's. Big is good when it comes to battery life.

#6 68 days ago

They ALL leak eventually.
Replace with either coin cell battery, SuperCap, or NVRAM.
--
Chris Hibler - CARGPB #31
http://ChrisHiblerPinball.com/Contact ... for board repairs
http://www.PinWiki.com - The Place to go for Pinball Repair Info

#7 68 days ago

If the 5101 is OK then NoQuartersArcade.com has a CR2032 battery board. Socketed coin cell battery with diode that fits into the same foot print as the old Varta battery. I got one of these for my Ice Fever (80A) and it's quite nice.
Still uses a lithium coin battery. Like all batteries, these leak also but they last a LOT longer before they leak. Having the coin cell lifted up and away from the board helps.

#8 68 days ago
Quoted from ChrisHibler:

They ALL leak eventually.
Replace with either coin cell battery, SuperCap, or NVRAM.
--
Chris Hibler - CARGPB #31
http://ChrisHiblerPinball.com/Contact ... for board repairs
http://www.PinWiki.com - The Place to go for Pinball Repair Info

Aren't you a little curious on the voltage reading? It looks spectacular for being 35 years old.

I've replaced plenty that haven't leaked based on age alone, but usually the single cells. That bigger pack may have a few years left in it.

#9 68 days ago
Quoted from phishrace:

Aren't you a little curious on the voltage reading? It looks spectacular for being 35 years old.
I've replaced plenty that haven't leaked based on age alone, but usually the single cells. That bigger pack may have a few years left in it.

As a minor point of curiosity, yes.
I would not risk that the battery has already leaked (and can't be seen) or it certainly will leak at some time in the future.
I had been installing NVRAM but the price of 5101 NVRAM modules escalated t $29/module. So I've returned to installing SuperCaps instead. The NoQuartersArcade board that G-P-E mentioned above is a nice solution too. Pricey compared to a coin cell holder and a diode, but it looks very professional.
--
Chris Hibler - CARGPB #31
http://ChrisHiblerPinball.com/Contact ... for board repairs
http://www.PinWiki.com - The Place to go for Pinball Repair Info

#10 68 days ago
Quoted from ChrisHibler:

As a minor point of curiosity, yes.
I would not risk that the battery has already leaked (and can't be seen) or it certainly will leak at some time in the future.
I had been installing NVRAM but the price of 5101 NVRAM modules escalated t $29/module. So I've returned to installing SuperCaps instead. The NoQuartersArcade board that G-P-E mentioned above is a nice solution too. Pricey compared to a coin cell holder and a diode, but it looks very professional.

I've cleaned up too many corroded boards...and it's getting to me...
--
Chris Hibler - CARGPB #31
http://ChrisHiblerPinball.com/Contact ... for board repairs
http://www.PinWiki.com - The Place to go for Pinball Repair Info

1 week later
#11 59 days ago
Quoted from phishrace:

Aren't you a little curious on the voltage reading? It looks spectacular for being 35 years old.

Next time I am at the machine, will check the voltage on this old battery.

Thanks everyone for the great tips on what to use.

I had been using memory caps as my go to replacement. It should work great in this SYS 80 board. However, I just recently learned (on pinside) that memory caps aren't a great option for the WPC games due to the clock draining the cap voltage down too quick. NVRAM is also not a good option for WPC due to loosing the midnight madness on certain games. So what's everyone been doing on WPC these days?

The best option I can think of is a remote battery pack on long wires lowered down in the cab, placed in a ziplock bag for good measure. Perhaps down by the coin door. I don't like keeping the battery pack in the head, due to the proximity to boards. Even if you get it away from the MPU, if it's still in the head it's going to be nearby another board.

#12 59 days ago

Remote battery pack, but not with long wires. Longer wires = larger voltage drop. I use about 14-16" of 18 gauge wire (soldered, obviously) and install the battery pack (using Velcro) above the 'shelf' created by the lower hinge for the light panel (behind the translite). I only install Energizer lithium batteries and tell my customers to change them every five years. I recommend Velcro brand velcro. I've tried cheaper stuff and it doesn't last.

#13 59 days ago

The current is so low that voltage drop is not a problem even with long/thin wires.

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