I would change it ASAP, there's no real benefit to leaving the original there, and every benefit to changing it to a more reliable, less destructive alternative (nvram, coin cell, off-mounted battery pack). Doesn't cost much and will save you potential headaches down the road. I know I wouldn't be able to sleep if that original battery was on there.

I'd at least check the voltage on it first. Date code isn't good, but meter don't lie. I'd be looking for something over 3 volts. Came new with 3.6.

Not a ticking time bomb. Relax, you got this.

Id change that out. Its quick and easy to do, and will save alot of work in the end.

Still waiting for that voltage reading Spy. I'm betting it's over 3 volts. That was the biggest Ni-cad battery pack Gottlieb used on System 80's. Big is good when it comes to battery life.

They ALL leak eventually.
Replace with either coin cell battery, SuperCap, or NVRAM.
--
Chris Hibler - CARGPB #31
http://ChrisHiblerPinball.com/Contact ... for board repairs
http://www.PinWiki.com - The Place to go for Pinball Repair Info

If the 5101 is OK then NoQuartersArcade.com has a CR2032 battery board. Socketed coin cell battery with diode that fits into the same foot print as the old Varta battery. I got one of these for my Ice Fever (80A) and it's quite nice.
Still uses a lithium coin battery. Like all batteries, these leak also but they last a LOT longer before they leak. Having the coin cell lifted up and away from the board helps.

Aren't you a little curious on the voltage reading? It looks spectacular for being 35 years old.

I've replaced plenty that haven't leaked based on age alone, but usually the single cells. That bigger pack may have a few years left in it.

As a minor point of curiosity, yes.
I would not risk that the battery has already leaked (and can't be seen) or it certainly will leak at some time in the future.
I had been installing NVRAM but the price of 5101 NVRAM modules escalated t $29/module. So I've returned to installing SuperCaps instead. The NoQuartersArcade board that G-P-E mentioned above is a nice solution too. Pricey compared to a coin cell holder and a diode, but it looks very professional.
--
Chris Hibler - CARGPB #31
http://ChrisHiblerPinball.com/Contact ... for board repairs
http://www.PinWiki.com - The Place to go for Pinball Repair Info

Remote battery pack, but not with long wires. Longer wires = larger voltage drop. I use about 14-16" of 18 gauge wire (soldered, obviously) and install the battery pack (using Velcro) above the 'shelf' created by the lower hinge for the light panel (behind the translite). I only install Energizer lithium batteries and tell my customers to change them every five years. I recommend Velcro brand velcro. I've tried cheaper stuff and it doesn't last.

The current is so low that voltage drop is not a problem even with long/thin wires.

I just bought a gottlieb system 80b tag team, had to drill out the lock to get to the backbox and found this battery soldered on the board. Reads 3.7v and it looks pretty old, is this a leak potential problem?

36770885-BBF9-490E-9450-13F73080B91F (resized).jpeg

Lithiums usually don't leak but since you don't know its history, I'd replace it.

Dumb question but once you change to a CR2032 battery, how often do you need to replace that battery?

Look for a date code printed on it. Likely not original.

About once every 3-4 years or so.

Perfect. Thx!