(Topic ID: 66510)

Help Please!!!


By Ronnie1114

5 years ago



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  • 40 posts
  • 7 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 5 years ago by Ronnie1114
  • Topic is favorited by 1 Pinsider

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mosfet.jpg

#1 5 years ago

I just finished shopping out my Gottlieb Wipe Out. During the shop I had rebuilt all the pop bumpers, but now when I turn the game on 2 of them lock on. The other one operates fine. Any help is greatly appreciated.

#2 5 years ago

Leaf blade switches stuck closed ? The ones that fire them.

LTG : )

#3 5 years ago
Quoted from LTG:

Leaf blade switches stuck closed ? The ones that fire them.
LTG : )

OK, checked the switches and they were fine. But this time I turned on the machine and it just blew the 2 fuses that the pop bumpers are on. They didn't lock on. the switch still scores fine. Thanks for the help

#4 5 years ago

Buuuuummmmmpppp

#5 5 years ago

Any more help?

#6 5 years ago

Help please!

#8 5 years ago

Check your MOSFETs with a DMM. Also verify the 2 bottom connectors on your driver board are not swapped (A3J5 and A3J6).

#9 5 years ago

K noob question here, what is a MOSFET. And I didn't take the boards out of the machine so I don't see any way they could have been switched.

#10 5 years ago

The MOSFETs are at the bottom of your driver board. You might also have an AUX driver board that has them. Here is a picture of what they look like.

mosfet.jpg

You will need your manual to figure out which MOSFET drives your troubled pop bumper. To test set your DMM to diode. Remove connectors P5 and P6. Put the black DMM test lead on the metal tab of the MOSFET. Put the red DMM test lead on the lower leg nearest the P5/P6/P7 connectors. A .4 to .6 reading is good. Anything else is bad. Next put the red lead on the upper leg. A null reading is good.

EDIT: Make sure machine is turned off for the test.

#11 5 years ago

OK I'll check that. One more question, there is a aux resistor board down in the cabinet that is pretty toasty. Would this have anything to do with the pop bumpers?

#12 5 years ago
Quoted from Ronnie1114:

OK I'll check that. One more question, there is a aux resistor board down in the cabinet that is pretty toasty. Would this have anything to do with the pop bumpers?

It could. I'm not as familiar with System3 and would need to look at a schematic to know for sure. But most of the time when a coil locks on it's due to the switch not adjusted properly or the MOSFET went bad. As a side note, most other manufacturers used TIP transistors instead of MOSFETs. They look the same but are not interchangeable.

#13 5 years ago
Quoted from kguenther6:

It could. I'm not as familiar with System3 and would need to look at a schematic to know for sure. But most of the time when a coil locks on it's due to the switch not adjusted properly or the MOSFET went bad. As a side note, most other manufacturers used TIP transistors instead of MOSFETs. They look the same but are not interchangeable.

Ok , but everything was working before I took it apart. Is there anything that would just make one of those go bad?

#14 5 years ago
Quoted from Ronnie1114:

Ok , but everything was working before I took it apart. Is there anything that would just make one of those go bad?

Sometimes they just go bad. But since you have 2 pop bumpers that aren't working that would mean 2 of them are bad. It would be unusual for 2 to just go bad at the same time. My guess is you accidentally shorted them out when you were working on the game. If you are sure you had the game turned off the whole time you were working on it then I would double check the switches again to make sure they are not closed. If its not the switches then I would still check the MOSFETs as stranger things have happened than 2 MOSFETs going out at the same time.

EDIT: When checking the switches visually check them and also put the machine in switch test mode and see if they are registering as closed.

#15 5 years ago

Another idea on this. Did you replace the coils? You could have soldered the wires on in reverse. Also the diode on the coil could be bad or if you removed the diode it could have been put on backwards.

#16 5 years ago
Quoted from kguenther6:

Another idea on this. Did you replace the coils? You could have soldered the wires on in reverse. Also the diode on the coil could be bad or if you removed the diode it could have been put on backwards.

I don't replace them but I did unsolder them. I thought I might have switched them around so when they didn't work I swapped them. Before they didn't do anything but blow fuses. Now they lock on and blow fuses.

#17 5 years ago
Quoted from Ronnie1114:

I don't replace them but I did unsolder them

Given that I would first check to make sure your wires are on correctly. Unsolder them and then check for power on each wire. One wire should have no power and the other should have 70V DC. The wire with 70V DC needs to be soldered to banded side of the diode. Before you solder the wires back on unsolder one side of the diode and check it with the MM and make sure its good. After verifying the wires and diodes give it a try. If they still lock on then I would say you probably blew out your MOSFETs from having the wires reversed and they will need replaced.

EDIT: If your coils do lock on, make sure to turn the game off right away. If you leave a coil locked on for more than a couple seconds you'll burn up the coil, blow a fuse or do some other type of damage.

#18 5 years ago

Forgot to tell you how to test your diodes:

Unsolder one of the legs and bend it up so it's disconnected on one side.
Set your DMM to 'Diode' mode.
Place the black lead on the banded side.
Place the red lead on the non-banded side. You should see a reading of 0.5 or thereabouts.
Carefully solder the leg 'back together.'

If you did reverse your wires then its almost certain the diodes will need replaced and probably the MOSFETs as well.

#19 5 years ago

I didn't notice any diodes on the pop bumper coils. I'll check when home though.

#20 5 years ago

All coils should have diodes on them.

#21 5 years ago

OK, I read through the schematics and found that I have them wired correctly right now. I tested the diodes and they seem fine but idk if I was testing them right. The only thing I couldn't figure out were the mofets

#22 5 years ago

Did you install the coils upside down?

#23 5 years ago

Like physically upside down? or the wires swapped?

Quoted from centerflank:

Did you install the coils upside down?

#24 5 years ago

Are the coil lugs by the armature sliding into it. If not, I believe its incorrect, just trying to help

#25 5 years ago
Quoted from centerflank:

Are the coil lugs by the armature sliding into it. If not, I believe its incorrect, just trying to help

No worries man! I appreciate any help I can get. The lugs are by the coil stop. I realized that was wrong after I put everything back together but I didn't think it would effect anything so I kinda ignored it. Does to do anything?

#26 5 years ago
Quoted from Ronnie1114:

OK, I read through the schematics and found that I have them wired correctly right now. I tested the diodes and they seem fine but idk if I was testing them right

I would go ahead and replace the diodes. You should be able to pick them up at radio shack for about a dollar. Go to a radio shack in a strip shopping center and not a mall. The ones at a mall don't seem to carry many electronic parts. At least not the radio shacks near me. You might be able to get the MOSFETs there as well but that's a long shot.

Quoted from Ronnie1114:

The only thing I couldn't figure out were the mofets

Are you having problems on how to test them or how to locate them?

#27 5 years ago
Quoted from kguenther6:

Are you having problems on how to test them or how to locate them?

I can't figure out either lol. Thanks for all of the help from everyone.

#28 5 years ago
Quoted from Ronnie1114:

I can't figure out either lol.

If you have a digital copy of your manual that you can email me I could find it for you. If you don't have a digital copy you will need to look at the picture that displays the sol# and see what the pop bumpers are. Then look at the schematic for your driver board and trace that back to a Q#. The Q# is your MOSFET and will have the same number labeled on the board. You also might be able to get the Q# from going into the solenoid test in the menus and it might display the Q# there. But I wouldn't worry about the MOSFET right now. Try just changing out the diode on the pop bumper coil and see if that fixes it. You should have no problem getting that from radio shack and maybe you'll get lucky and that will be all that got fried. If that doesn't work let me know and I can help you with the MOSFET.

#29 5 years ago

OK will do. Thanks.

#30 5 years ago
Quoted from Ronnie1114:

OK will do. Thanks.

Any update?

1 week later
#31 5 years ago

OK Finally got around to messing with it. What I did is I unsoldered the pop bumper that was working and put it in one of the non-working ones. That made it not work and then I put one of the ones that wasn't working into the working one and it did work. So its not the diode. Also, I noticed that when i put the fuse in one of the non working ones the solenoid got hot and then blew the fuse. Thanks for all the help

#32 5 years ago

Sounds like a bad MOSFET at this point. If your comfortable with board repair you will need to trace it down on your schematic and replace it. If your not comfortable with unsoldering/soldering on your boards you can send them out for repair.

#33 5 years ago
Quoted from kguenther6:

Sounds like a bad MOSFET at this point. If your comfortable with board repair you will need to trace it down on your schematic and replace it. If your not comfortable with unsoldering/soldering on your boards you can send them out for repair.

I've never done any before. Is replacing a MOSFET considered hard?

#34 5 years ago
Quoted from Ronnie1114:

I've never done any before. Is replacing a MOSFET considered hard?

Its not hard but if you have never unsoldered/soldered on a computer board you will want to practice a little bit on a junk board first. You just have to be careful not to apply too much heat and ruin a trace or hole pad. If you practice on a junk board first a few times you should be fine.

#35 5 years ago
Quoted from kguenther6:

Its not hard but if you have never unsoldered/soldered on a computer board you will want to practice a little bit on a junk board first. You just have to be careful not to apply too much heat and ruin a trace or hole pad. If you practice on a junk board first a few times you should be fine.

Yeah, I don't have any boards laying around. Who does this kind of work and how much does it cost?
Once again, Thanks for all your help

#36 5 years ago

I'm not sure who does it or what they charge. I know I've seen threads on pinside where they talked about who does boardwork. If you do a search you should be able to find some names.

#37 5 years ago

Yeah, there are a few people here who do excellent work. Not THAT expensive and they will check out and fix the entire board.

#38 5 years ago
Quoted from spfxted:

Yeah, there are a few people here who do excellent work. Not THAT expensive and they will check out and fix the entire board.

OK I know of rob but last I heard he is backed up. I also need my f14 fixed as well.

#39 5 years ago

Clive Jones at coin-op cauldron. Great guy and good prices. ~SpOoKy

#40 5 years ago
Quoted from SpOoKyRiDeS:

Clive Jones at coin-op cauldron. Great guy and good prices. ~Spooky

Thanks!

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