(Topic ID: 94127)

Gottlieb paper labels from the 70's.


By stashyboy

4 years ago



Topic Stats

  • 40 posts
  • 15 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 4 years ago by wayner
  • Topic is favorited by 4 Pinsiders

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    HHmbfulbl1.jpg
    DSC02683.JPG
    RU.jpg
    Futura Bold.png
    Screen Shot 2014-06-13 at 4.08.00 PM.png
    label sample for relays etc.pdf (PDF preview)

    #1 4 years ago

    Does anyone save those labels we find in the bottom of games? I do, and try to put them back in the right place after wiping off whatever dirt (pinball grime-carbon/grease/metal) I am able. I save whatever I can for the sake of originality. If anyone has original Gottlieb labels, from the 1970's (60's are different) and willing to pass them along, I will pay for postage. This question touches on two topics discussed here recently. Original vs. repro, and parts swap threads. Nothing to do with the game playing better, but I look at my projects as preservation of a classic piece of "Americana". Once they are gone, they are gone-labels too!
    TIA

    #2 4 years ago

    if anyone could scan these and get them on peter's site, that would be even better...

    #3 4 years ago

    I'm talking about individual relay labels (thousands score relay, etc.), not the larger ones that have motor info. Peter's site is a great resource for many stuff, but not sure if he would want to deal with 20-30 small individual relay labels....

    #4 4 years ago

    yea, i knew which ones you were talking about... those are the ones that are always missing and i'd like to be able to reproduce them as needed...

    if we can get them scanned, i'll figure out a way to host them if peter doesn't want to...

    #5 4 years ago

    It's nice when they have already fallen off, that way they don't interfere with cleaning. Otherwise, they get stained by the black crud produced by the metal polish. Sometimes I've had to scrape them off so I could get the metal looking new again. I think next time I'll dab some nail polish over the top to protect them.

    #6 4 years ago
    Quoted from leckmeck:

    It's nice when they have already fallen off, that way they don't interfere with cleaning. Otherwise, they get stained by the black crud produced by the metal polish. Sometimes I've had to scrape them off so I could get the metal looking new again. I think next time I'll dab some nail polish over the top to protect them.

    yea, true dat... not only do they get stained, but i tend to wash them off entirely...

    i like the nail polish idea... i'm gonna try that... just plain clear polish? my wife has gotta have some of that somewhere in the million bottles of nail polish she has....

    #7 4 years ago

    Yep, clear nail polish. Have your wife buy an extra one for you so you can keep it on your bench for spot applications. It's handy stuff.

    #8 4 years ago

    cool, thanks!

    #9 4 years ago

    Has anybody identified the font yet to make your own? I tried this sample on whatthefont.com and it matched it to "Monotype Slate", but I didn't think it was that close - no rounded corners.

    label sample for relays etc.pdf
    #10 4 years ago

    nope, and i have tried...

    #11 4 years ago

    The two important factors to me are- paper authenticity (no matter what I try, most modern paper won't look that aged) and the other being the rounded corners on the labels. Glad this thread has gotten people thinking about it.

    #12 4 years ago

    I understand the desire for Authenticity but if "labeling" for the purpose of ease of service was the factor, then a full sheet of 80 Avery "Return Address Labels" with just about every small label we can come up with might be a good compromise?

    #13 4 years ago

    I am pretty sure that most Gott. instruction cards were printed in Helvetica or Helvetica Narrow. That is what I used to use to remake them when I had my original Postscript Laser Printer that had it as a built in font. I wonder if that font might be Helvetica Rounded.

    #14 4 years ago

    Here is Helvetica Rounded:

    Screen Shot 2014-06-13 at 4.08.00 PM.png
    #15 4 years ago
    Quoted from jeffc:

    Here is Helvetica Rounded:

    Looks good to me.

    Ken

    #16 4 years ago

    The leg on the R on the original sticker almost looks like it was pen-ed in by hand (from a "P"). The closest I have found so far, but can't find in compressed or narrow is: Basic Commercial Soft Rounded. It has the straight out leg on the R instead of the squiggly one like in Helvetica.

    #17 4 years ago

    The cards maintained by Inkochnito on his site use Futura for Gottlieb's score and instruction cards. To my eyes, this label looks like it might be using Futura Bold. The soft edges are the result of the ink spreading into the fiber of the paper stock.

    Futura Bold.png

    #18 4 years ago

    Or maybe: Museo Sans Rounded 700
    Or: Trade Gothic® Next Soft Rounded Pro Bold
    Or: Tondo Corp Bold Font

    It may come down to how the numbers such as One (1) look.

    #19 4 years ago
    Quoted from leckmeck:

    The cards maintained by Inkochnito on his site use Futura for Gottlieb's score and instruction cards. To my eyes, this label looks like it might be using Futura Bold. The soft edges are the result of the ink spreading into the fiber of the paper stock.
    Image (auto-loading disabled)

    Futura Bold.png 112 KB

    I forgot about Futura. You are probably right. I was thinking the rounding was also due to worn out Typeset that may have been used tens of 1000's of times.

    #20 4 years ago
    Quoted from stashyboy:

    I'm talking about individual relay labels (thousands score relay, etc.), not the larger ones that have motor info. Peter's site is a great resource for many stuff, but not sure if he would want to deal with 20-30 small individual relay labels....

    Would you clarify 'Peters site' pls-thks.

    #21 4 years ago
    Quoted from wayner:

    Would you clarify 'Peters site' pls-thks.

    Here's the site you're asking about: http://www.pinballrebel.com/pinball/cards/

    Peter Incochnito has instruction cards and score cards available to download as a pdf or word doc.. Pinball Rebel hosts Peter's site.

    Just click on Gottlieb on the left side of the page and see if he has instruction/score cards available for your game. He has other items available too besides these.

    I print them on white card stock and cut a clear vinyl window to go over the top. For an "aged look buy the "aged' card stock and use a clear window or Pinball Resource sells the tinted covers which looks good too.

    #22 4 years ago

    ^^^

    agreed on the tinted covers... they are aged just enough so that plain white card stock looks pretty close to the right color when you use one of the covers... i cut a few down for the "replay score" side, since the smaller ones i got were clear...

    #23 4 years ago
    Quoted from leckmeck:

    The cards maintained by Inkochnito on his site use Futura for Gottlieb's score and instruction cards. To my eyes, this label looks like it might be using Futura Bold. The soft edges are the result of the ink spreading into the fiber of the paper stock.

    Futura Bold.png 112 KB

    i messed with one of peter's gottlieb cards (royal guard, in this case) for hours on end trying to get the font/spacing just right, to no avail... however, i am not real good at that type of thing... so it is possible that i just wasn't hitting the right combination... i really wish we could, because i can live with the color of the paper being a bit off (although we should be able to figure out rgb coordinates for the background color), but the font/spacing being off sticks in my craw for some reason...

    there's gotta be a way to take a "known good scan" and lift the character set... i just don't know enough about image processing to know how to do it...

    #24 4 years ago
    Quoted from stashyboy:

    Does anyone save those labels we find in the bottom of games? I do, and try to put them back in the right place after wiping off whatever dirt (pinball grime-carbon/grease/metal) I am able. I save whatever I can for the sake of originality. If anyone has original Gottlieb labels, from the 1970's (60's are different) and willing to pass them along, I will pay for postage. This question touches on two topics discussed here recently. Original vs. repro, and parts swap threads. Nothing to do with the game playing better, but I look at my projects as preservation of a classic piece of "Americana". Once they are gone, they are gone-labels too!
    TIA

    I absolutely do this.

    When I start in on a game, one of the first things I do is gather up all the detritus from the bottom of the cabinet and save it away, including all the labels that fell off over the years and landed there. I also find them when stripping the score motor board, and taking apart the backbox. Those little labels like to find the oddest nooks to wedge into, including between the bottom cabinet board and the walls of the cabinet. Have to slide a blade in there to fish them out.

    Then when the game is done, I go through and reattach them all. I also check the remaining ones that didn't fall off (yet), and make sure they're still on well enough. Often just a light tap on them will knock them off, so they get re-glued too.

    #25 4 years ago

    What kind of glue works best ?

    #26 4 years ago
    Quoted from OCD_pinball:

    What kind of glue works best ?

    I just use Elmers school glue or Elmers craft glue. Just make sure surfaces are clean.

    #27 4 years ago

    I use a glue stick now. I used to use thinned-down white glue (un-thinned white glue is too thick/lumpy), but I find the glue stick easier to use and the consistency works well (for me). The white glue doesn't seem to stick as well to the metal parts where most of these labels go, but the glue stick stuff holds great.

    #28 4 years ago
    Quoted from DirtFlipper:

    I use a glue stick now

    Yep. Works every time and lasts.

    Ken

    #29 4 years ago
    Quoted from DirtFlipper:

    I use a glue stick now. I used to use thinned-down white glue (un-thinned white glue is too thick/lumpy), but I find the glue stick easier to use and the consistency works well (for me). The white glue doesn't seem to stick as well to the metal parts where most of these labels go, but the glue stick stuff holds great.

    What brand of glue stick do you use and where do you get it. I'm assuming it's easy to find.

    #30 4 years ago

    I collect the original ones found sprinkled around and keep them in an envelope. Some are pretty kruddy as others have said.
    I print new ones on plain paper. I usually have some polycrylic around so I paint it on the clean metal or wood surface using a model brush and make the spot just a bit bigger than the label itself and stick the label into the wet polycrylic. Once it's dry then I paint over the surface of the labels, again using the polycrylic and a brush to seal it in.

    RU.jpg

    #31 4 years ago
    Quoted from hoov:

    What brand of glue stick do you use and where do you get it. I'm assuming it's easy to find.

    Elmer's. I'm sure it's available everywhere, but I just happen to 'borrow' some in the household.

    #32 4 years ago
    Quoted from DirtFlipper:

    Elmer's. I'm sure it's available everywhere, but I just happen to 'borrow' some in the household.

    Thanks

    #33 4 years ago

    All,

    For Bally Bingo's I am having to replace some of the labels . I print on colored paper but in a recent thread 'newmantjn' said he picks a color the background so he can print on any white card.I will try this when the paper I have is used up.

    The closest I have found for Bally font is "Franklin Gothic Dem Cond" either 9/10/11 size font as needed.

    Here is an example of the sheets darker and lighter with the reprint.

    Steve J

    I use a glue stick when label is stuck and obviously a stapler when on wood.

    DSC02683.JPG

    3 weeks later
    #34 4 years ago

    bump as i'm looking for font used on late 60's Williams

    anyone?

    #35 4 years ago

    http://www.myfonts.com/WhatTheFont/

    Upload a picture of the font, it will identify

    #36 4 years ago

    I've got a few Gottlieb relay strip labels right now.
    Look in the set for Abra Ca Dabra.
    http://www.pinballrebel.com/pinball/cards/Gottlieb/Gottlieb_Abra_Ca_Dabra_instruction_cards.zip
    I just added a similar strip to Fast Draw (not jet on my website).
    Together with coin chute adjustments labels and a point score adjustment label.
    These are also in the Abra Ca Dabra set.

    #37 4 years ago
    Quoted from Robotoes:

    bump as i'm looking for font used on late 60's Williams
    anyone?

    Do you have an example image?

    8 months later
    #38 4 years ago
    Quoted from Inkochnito:

    I've got a few Gottlieb relay strip labels right now.
    Look in the set for Abra Ca Dabra.
    http://www.pinballrebel.com/pinball/cards/Gottlieb/Gottlieb_Abra_Ca_Dabra_instruction_cards.zip
    I just added a similar strip to Fast Draw (not jet on my website).
    Together with coin chute adjustments labels and a point score adjustment label.
    These are also in the Abra Ca Dabra set.

    Absolutely brilliant Peter-the coin adj & fuse strips were just what I was looking for for my current resto.

    And an unusual one on my High Hand motor board:

    HHmbfulbl1.jpg

    The 25v fuse is normally a 15amp but shown as 10amp and the playboard light shown as 15amp when normally a 10amp. Any views?

    #39 4 years ago
    Quoted from wayner:

    Absolutely brilliant Peter-the coin adj & fuse strips were just what I was looking for for my current resto.
    And an unusual one on my High Hand motor board:
    HHmbfulbl1.jpg
    The 25v fuse is normally a 15amp but shown as 10amp and the playboard light shown as 15amp when normally a 10amp. Any views?

    Not unusual at all. They can be many different values depending on the load they need to carry.

    #40 4 years ago
    Quoted from stashyboy:

    Not unusual at all. They can be many different values depending on the load they need to carry.

    Ah 'some things are only obvious to some when they are pointed out'. Thks stashyboy that is so obvious now!!

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