I have an Out of Sight that was working perfectly for many game plays. Last time I was playing 2 players I realized the ball draining was not switching to player two, but kept kicking out the ball and adding points for player one. So I concluded the Player Unit had stopped advancing. As I have seen in other stepper units the large pivoting lever that is critical for stepping the unit was sticking, because the nut and screw that are the pivot point were too tight & maybe dirty. So I cleaned and adjusted the pivot point so the lever was working like it is supposed to. The unit now steps up fine and no binding or stopping. I thought that would cure the problem. but on starting the game others things stopped working. When I start the game the bonus unit is clicking with solenoid pulse on-off and the motor keeps running. Manually resetting the control relay bank stops the process. On occasion as I have been trying to fix the game it will do a proper reset and the relay bank opens, the bonus unit is stopped and the motor stops.

But even when it appears the game is now ready to play the out hole switch will not cause the out hole solenoid to kick, but instead it causes a pulse to the bonus unit and adds 1000 points. The bonus unit only makes one step past its zero point and just jumps and returns to the first step beyond zero, thus continuing to add 1000 points to the score reel each time the out hole switch is closed. Since the game is not really accumulating bonus points, only the 1000 bonus playfield light is on.

I have the schematic and worked my way through all the relays and switches that appear in the startup circuit. I've cleaned and adjusted all the switches. As best as I can tell all of the control bank switches and relays are set correctly and turning power on the QB & ZB relays are closed (per observation by Rolf). I have read several times through the post https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/out-of-sight-step-switch-constantly-firing#post-3714837, and much of it is very helpful, but the issue was not the same. If I manually step up the Bonus Unit it will step down to zero, but since something is still sending current to the BU, it keeps banging away. I have multiple times checked the Bonus Unit 3 switches, and as mentioned on occasion the reset sequence has worked, so the BU zero switch is OK.

Thanks to anyone that can help me solve this. I have the schematic, proper pinball tools, test lights, VOM, O-of-Sight owners manual, etc. I've done lots of testing and the player unit seems fine and I've cleaned and gapped all the PU switches. The plastic cams are good. I've gone round and round on the score motor switches and they are all clean and gapped and open and close when they are supposed to, even the dreaded A and B levels. I'm very careful to make sure I don't bend or break one thing while I am fixing another. I always look closely at the switch tabs to make sure none of them are touching or have a wire loose.

All the scoring, targets, drops, flippers, pops, slings, etc work fine.

Thanks. I will check these items. The Player Unit "shoes" spring loaded contacts are directly on the rivets. Gonna look at the drops.

Thanks. I keep going over this circuit, but I'll check again. May have missed something.

The reason the bonus unit would not stop is because the reset control bank was not being activated. I again filed the contacts and adjusted the gaps as tiny as I can get them (and previously tightening the switch stack screws) and now the U Control Bank Reset Relay is providing enough current to make the big solenoid fire and the bank resets, then the Bonus Unit stops. I did check the drop target switches, but they were OK, but that is a good suggestion because I have seen problems (points keep being added) if a drop switch is not opening.

Unfortunately the out hole switch still does not fire the out hole solenoid. I know the solenoid is good, tapping with 24 volts makes it fire. The Out Hole Relay 'O' does close when the out hole switch is closed. I have tried bypassing the switches/relays in the out hole circuit, but so far no luck.

Paul, thanks for the highlighted schematic. I've been thru that circuit again and cannot find a point of failure. The motor switches in the Out Hole circuit are working correctly, and I have cleaned and gapped them multiple times, plus other things that rely on those switches are working. If you can suggest the jumper paths to find out which switch/relay is the weak link I'm sure I can find it. I have the schematic, but at times due to difficulties determining wire colors in the game I struggle to know what to jumper. I have tried shorting across switches in the out hole circuit to make sure it is not a contacts problem. but so far that has not made the out hole solenoid fire.

I did solve the running bonus unit issue, it was because even though the U relay was closing, not enough current was getting to the bank solenoid to make it fire. I have to get the contact gaps so close I need a magnifying glass and-or ohm meter to be sure they are not touching when open.

Thanks guys. I will try these suggestions.

The joys of Gottlieb wiring techniques. I discovered that the brown+red wire that appears to be going to the 2nd switch tab at 4C is actually going to a switch at 4B, and the two tabs are supposed to be soldered together. I am used to seeing short jumper wires or even a short piece of stiff wire connecting close tabs, but this is a first. I had been checking 4C many times and it was cleaned and closed, but the solder holding the two tabs had popped apart. I had to remove the switch stack on 4C to see what was wrong; in that bundle of wires and switches on 4B & 4C hard to see that two tabs are soldered together. I added a short jumper from the brown+red on 4B to the tab on 4C. Also the dog on the actuator was worn through with a hole, some maybe after a zillion rotations and vibration the solder on the two tabs popped apart.

Thanks for all your help. It's always something. I really appreciate the help & knowledge of Pinside members. Maybe this post will be of help to the next person who wonders why the 2nd switch on 4C appears to be OK, but it has no continuity.

I also discovered in trying to looks for points of failure that there is no red-white wire (according to the schematic) going to the switches on XB (Last Ball) relay, but there is what appears to be a white+slate that has the 24V current. It disappears into a wire bundle on the control bank, so who knows where it is connected to red-white. As it says on the schematic "Due to circumstances beyond our control, it may be necessary to substitute wires of different colors". Ha ha.