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(Topic ID: 145514)

Gottlieb North Star Power Switch


By troxel

4 years ago



Topic Stats

  • 20 posts
  • 8 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 4 years ago by pinhead52
  • No one calls this topic a favorite

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#1 4 years ago

Got the machine with the hold relay taped down and what looks like a cord going to a nonexistent switch. The wire spliced in with the brown wires is connected together and runs to the front of the machine.

I have read Clay's repair and the pinwiki on adding a switch, and noted there were some differences between the two. What is the best procedure to install a power switch?

Thanks!

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#2 4 years ago
Quoted from troxel:

What is the best procedure to install a power switch?

Plug the game into a power strip that has an on/off switch and leave the game original (so no extra holes drilled into the cabinet). And can then remove the hack too.

#3 4 years ago
Quoted from DirtFlipper:

Plug the game into a power strip that has an on/off switch and leave the game original (so no extra holes drilled into the cabinet). And can then remove the hack too.

Yea! Hear that EM-Pinman! It pains me to work on your hacked Ks&Qs.

#4 4 years ago

If I don't install a power switch, then what is needed to remove the hack. Is it as simply as installing a new power plug, removing the extra wires for the switch, and setting the hold relay so it's not jammed shut?

#5 4 years ago
Quoted from troxel:

If I don't install a power switch, then what is needed to remove the hack. Is it as simply as installing a new power plug, removing the extra wires for the switch, and setting the hold relay so it's not jammed shut?

Yep. Will then need to be either set on free play, or use coins to power on (via tripping the coin mech switch, as original).

#6 4 years ago

You will also need to splice the brown wires back together, or just put the new cord hot side right onto the fuse holder, and the other on the return of the transformer. or... just drill a hole in the bottom right corner, and add a switch...

2 weeks later
#7 4 years ago

I will mention that I am not too familiar with EMs.

I switched out the cord, and now need help on how to start a game. I removed the extra wire and released the hold relay now game will not start. Looked at Clay's guide and game looks like it is on free play. Back light will come on if I manually trip the hold relay. What am I missing?

Let me know if you need better photos or different angle.

Note: The switch on the orange and green wire is closed even though it looks open in the photo.

Thanks!

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#8 4 years ago

is that credit wheel aligned right? hard to see. chk that the reel moves manually from 0 to its max allowed.
move it by hand one step at a time, and watch those switches for proper op.
it needs to have credits to start,"without a coin dropped".

#9 4 years ago

The credit wheel seemed to be off 180 degrees. I rotated and and moved it by hand and the switches are in proper position. However, I am not getting a game to start.

Here's a recap of what I have done.
I replaced the power cord and removed two wires that were connected to neutral and the hot that were tied together. Game was working before I did this, and now just need to get it back to original state. There are no coin mechs on the game, and tried to manually add credits and still no game play. If I manual trip the hold relay, the backbox lights up, so I am at least getting power .

Any other ideas?

#10 4 years ago

It has the coolest switch of them all already, just slap it real hard on the bottom!

#11 4 years ago

the spring is on the wrong side of the switch stop.
i see this a lot but never figured out how it happens

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#12 4 years ago

I saw that, too and switched it around. Still not getting the game to start? Is my wiring on the power cord incorrect? I hooked up the hot to the fuse, neutral to the iso, and ground to the iso frame. The hack had the hot and neutral connected. Does the new power cord need to have this, too?

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#13 4 years ago
Quoted from troxel:

The hack had the hot and neutral connected. Does the new power cord need to have this, too?

NO!!! that is a dead short.
BLACK goes to the fuse, White to the Return on transformer, GREEN to the mounting bolt on transformer.
From the fuse, white/green looks like it goes to the knock off switch, then??? need a schematic to proceed.
I would look at that credit unit closer.
Try a jumper on that switch with the green wire, may be not closed good enuf???
Then, chk the other ones closer, did you tighten the switch stacks? and clean those switches?

#14 4 years ago

Dr_of_Style- thanks for the help so far. I will double check contacts tonight after work. Just frustrating that it was working with the hack and now is not. I will keep you (and others) updated on it.

#15 4 years ago
Quoted from pinhead52:

Yea! Hear that EM-Pinman! It pains me to work on your hacked Ks&Qs.

Hey I made things easy for you Ken when you go to paint the three cabinets your not going to get mine confused with the other two K&Q's.

Ken

#16 4 years ago

The Bounce switch (cab board), Anti-Cheat switch (coin door), and Shutoff switch (cab board) all need to be normally closed. If any of those are open, then the R relay can't energize and hold.

But from a powered-off state, R won't energize on it's own. What needs to happen first is the SB relay needs to trip, and a make/break switch on there completes the path to the transformer from the line cord. Once this path completes, the 25V side of the transformer is able to activate the R relay, and a switch on R itself closes and keeps the power held on (thus being the 'Hold' relay).

So if you can manually trip the SB relay and have R energize, then the thing to debug is getting the SB relay to energize and trip.

To get SB to energize, it needs the same make/break on itself, a normally closed switch on W, a normally closed switch on the ball gate switch stack ("On Ball Release"), and then either a path via the replay button or the coin mech switch.

You can see this logic path at the bottom of your schematic.

As for the power cord, here's a reference for the 2-prong style:
http://pinwiki.com/wiki/index.php?title=EM_Repair#Replacing_a_Power_Cord

But if you're able to manually activate R, then you're getting power as you noted.

#17 4 years ago

from my experience, the ball release switch is the culprit most of the time when this happens . it gets out of adjustment easily when lifting and lowering the playfield.

#18 4 years ago

It simply comes down to "I'm an idiot". I removed the playfield to have more room to solder in the cords and forgot to plug back in the connectors. I wanted to test the power first and make sure everything was good, and left the game for a couple days to come back and completely forgot about the connectors. Plugged those back in and everything is working as it should! The Coin stepper did need some work, so not all was lost.

Thanks for all the help. Definitely appreciate it!!

#19 4 years ago

Don't worry, you're not the only one to have made that mistake!

#20 4 years ago

Speaking of NorthStar's...currently being repainted, pretty fine webbing.
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