(Topic ID: 262060)

Gottlieb Monte Carlo freaking out. Help please

By Bax1

3 years ago

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  • 23 posts
  • 5 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 45 days ago by RandyR
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#1 3 years ago

Haven’t turned this on in a long time. Was having a switch issue before and was going to see if I could figure it out this weekend. Went back over the ground mod in the bottom and made sure all was in the wire but good and had good contact to the base. Turned it on and the flashers on the right side and other playfield lights would turn on and off. The roulette wheel just kept spinning and the game would just beep every few seconds. What the heck is going on?

#2 3 years ago

The lights coming/going, roulette wheel spinning and beep noise sounds like how my raven was acting when the daughter board connection was crappy. This was my 1st 80b game and my intro to the system.

I Would have weird lights, helicopter run, beep. When that happened pressing on daughter board temporarilly fixed it, reflowing daughter permanitly fixed. Try pressing on your board. If it works, reflow or install piggy duex.

Since my raven I have owned a few 80bs.
I like them because I buy them cheap and fun to play. Yet my learning experience from raven and my other games has taught me to do 4 things.

1 Ground mod under playfield
2 reflow power supply pins set voltage to 5.1v 3 reflow daughter board
4 replace battery with Frank's battery board.

I have owned 5 80bs. After I have done that to my games I have had no issues. First 2 games I did the above in steps. Now I just do it get it over with as soon I bring game home. The 2 80s I still own get played regularly. The ones my friends now own have been relatively bulletproof.

#3 3 years ago

Awesome. Thank you for the tips. I will be trying that out. When you do the ground mod, are you doing it like tnt? I did the first time but today I trimmed the bare wire down. It ended up being a huge ball and just didn’t like the way it looked. Thinking maybe I may have trimmed it down to much? I will try the piggy back board and will report back

#4 3 years ago

For grounds I cut plug tight, then split them off into 4.

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#5 3 years ago

Ok that is what I did but how much did you strip off? Inch or two? I just pushed on the piggy back and it booted but roulette kept spinning. Will reflow it tomorrow

#6 3 years ago

I cut my plugs. Break into bundles. Cut my individual bundles length. As far as striping the wire it varies on my bundle. Bigger bundles like these grounds, I do about an inch maybe lil longer.

The longer wire makes it easier to grab multi wires with pliers and twist. Once twisted I trim back so wire nut can cover, wrap my lead ground wire on and cap it.

#7 3 years ago

Ok so I reflowed piggy back board and this has had work on it before. The board has been replaced with a Great Plains board and is socketed. I tested continuity on the pins and all good there. Game boots up. Also pulled power supply and reflowed pins and dialed it in so it is at 5.08 at pin one on rom. So now I have attract mode and can coin up. Started a game and the solenoid to kick the ball into the trough keeps firing and I have 3 balls in the trough already. Another thing I did was go through test mode and in switch test every switch ending in 1 and 3 are closed. Trying to figure where they are tied to being in a horizontal position in the switch matrix. Then also 65 and 70 are closed. Making some progress so happy with that

#8 3 years ago

And the music is not playing when I started a game. You do get the sound of coining up when putting credits in

#9 3 years ago

Double check your edge connectors for sound if it was working before. Sometimes just pulling connectors quick clean up will do wonders

As for kicking 3 balls sounds like it is not recognizing that 1 ball is In trough to begin with. Can you close that switch to get desired result. I.e. start game close switch manually after 1 ball ejected. Does it continue to pump out balls?

Do you have a manual with all the switch matrix

#10 3 years ago

I do have a manual and have been going through it. The outhole is switch 65. This is the solenoid that keeps firing. In test mode it shows closed. So I’ll check that later tonight. So looking over this matrix, not sure but assuming if switches that are tied together horizontally in the matrix are tied together by the ground?

#11 3 years ago

So just checked the outhole switch and it keeps firing. If I get time tomorrow I’ll check my ground mod again.

#12 3 years ago

Mc is a 3 ball game correct? Never played it 1st hand. One of few 80bs I have yet to play. My memory is fuzzy on 80b ball trough setup. Maybe someone else will chime in. Iirc, it has drain switch, reads ball at ejector and in shooter lane. I'm pretty certain 80bs just read the lead ball, not 2 and 3 in trough.

Game over balls in trough it should read that switch closed on lead ball. Be it switch on lead ball or switch on ejector itself.

Start game ball ejects into shooter lane. trough switch go from closed to open until 2nd ball rolls down and closes. If switch is on the ejector- ejector in rest state may be open/ closed- will need to make full travel to make switch go opposite of rest position. If it cant do that, game thinks ball jam situation continues to dump balls.

At same time shooter lane goes from open to closed as ball rolls onto switch

In test mode with apron off pull all 3 balls and manually close each switch to confirm it sees they are closed/open. Plus see if it recognizes ball in shooter lane. Keep eye on the ejector. Does it have switch on it? Post pic if you can. If I have time tomorrow I'll pull glass/apron on one of my 80bs see how it operates. I'd imagine Hollywood heat would be same.

#13 3 years ago

It is a 3 ball game. I will pull it tomorrow and post a pic. Working at home so I can sneak off. The ball isn’t ejecting into the shooter lane. It’s the solenoid at ball end that keeps firing

#14 3 years ago

So the white coil is the one firing and the green doesn’t kick the ball into the shooter lane. During test mode all works. Strange thing is green coil fires under lamp 12. Not during solenoid test.

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#15 3 years ago
Quoted from Bax1:

So the white coil is the one firing and the green doesn’t kick the ball into the shooter lane. During test mode all works. Strange thing is green coil fires under lamp 12. Not during solenoid test.

That's correct. The ball release coil is switched by a MJE2955 transistor under the playfield which is triggered by Lamp Signal L12 via transistor T13 (MPS-U45). Gottlieb did this because there weren't enough transistors on the driverboard to drive coils directly, So they used this workaround via transistors originaly meant to drive lamps.

#16 3 years ago

so when I went into switch test today. everything with 0,1, and 3 ending was closed. could that be tied to the ground?
and what could be causing the outhole coil to fire?

#17 3 years ago

So I’m going to check the diodes. Is there anything in the manual show which diode board these switches. And shows which diode goes to switch

#18 3 years ago

So if I’m reading this right, I need to check 4A7J1/P1, 2A7j1/P1, 3A7J1/P1 should be the diodes tied to these switches correct?

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#19 3 years ago

So double checked the ground mod and all good there. Pulled the board and seen this. It’s tying chip z26 to a capacitor. Is this right?

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#20 3 years ago

Place saver

#21 3 years ago

That blob of solder is the so called slam switch mod. It disables the slamswitch as the normally closed slamswitch contact can cause problems over the time. Gottlieb later ( around Excalibur, Big House ) applied a normally open slamswitch at the coindoor to avoid this problem.

#22 3 years ago

Ok cool. Thank you. I’ll leave it be then. Looked over the connectors and all look good. Will be looking over switches for anything being off

2 years later
#23 45 days ago

I'm a little late to this thread but the switch matrix may be bad. Had the same problem on my MC. It was "cycling" all the 3 outholes. That was Z14. You can do a simple diode test on the Z13 and z14 and determine if any diodes are shorted internal to the chip (mine were). I ordered a new SN7400N (from digikey) shown on page 22 of manual. Be careful removing and replacing (try not to lift any tracks). That solved my issue.

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