The lights coming/going, roulette wheel spinning and beep noise sounds like how my raven was acting when the daughter board connection was crappy. This was my 1st 80b game and my intro to the system.

I Would have weird lights, helicopter run, beep. When that happened pressing on daughter board temporarilly fixed it, reflowing daughter permanitly fixed. Try pressing on your board. If it works, reflow or install piggy duex.

Since my raven I have owned a few 80bs.
I like them because I buy them cheap and fun to play. Yet my learning experience from raven and my other games has taught me to do 4 things.

1 Ground mod under playfield
2 reflow power supply pins set voltage to 5.1v 3 reflow daughter board
4 replace battery with Frank's battery board.

I have owned 5 80bs. After I have done that to my games I have had no issues. First 2 games I did the above in steps. Now I just do it get it over with as soon I bring game home. The 2 80s I still own get played regularly. The ones my friends now own have been relatively bulletproof.

For grounds I cut plug tight, then split them off into 4.

20190505_142130 (resized).jpg

20190505_145809 (resized).jpg

I cut my plugs. Break into bundles. Cut my individual bundles length. As far as striping the wire it varies on my bundle. Bigger bundles like these grounds, I do about an inch maybe lil longer.

The longer wire makes it easier to grab multi wires with pliers and twist. Once twisted I trim back so wire nut can cover, wrap my lead ground wire on and cap it.

Double check your edge connectors for sound if it was working before. Sometimes just pulling connectors quick clean up will do wonders

As for kicking 3 balls sounds like it is not recognizing that 1 ball is In trough to begin with. Can you close that switch to get desired result. I.e. start game close switch manually after 1 ball ejected. Does it continue to pump out balls?

Do you have a manual with all the switch matrix

Mc is a 3 ball game correct? Never played it 1st hand. One of few 80bs I have yet to play. My memory is fuzzy on 80b ball trough setup. Maybe someone else will chime in. Iirc, it has drain switch, reads ball at ejector and in shooter lane. I'm pretty certain 80bs just read the lead ball, not 2 and 3 in trough.

Game over balls in trough it should read that switch closed on lead ball. Be it switch on lead ball or switch on ejector itself.

Start game ball ejects into shooter lane. trough switch go from closed to open until 2nd ball rolls down and closes. If switch is on the ejector- ejector in rest state may be open/ closed- will need to make full travel to make switch go opposite of rest position. If it cant do that, game thinks ball jam situation continues to dump balls.

At same time shooter lane goes from open to closed as ball rolls onto switch

In test mode with apron off pull all 3 balls and manually close each switch to confirm it sees they are closed/open. Plus see if it recognizes ball in shooter lane. Keep eye on the ejector. Does it have switch on it? Post pic if you can. If I have time tomorrow I'll pull glass/apron on one of my 80bs see how it operates. I'd imagine Hollywood heat would be same.

That's correct. The ball release coil is switched by a MJE2955 transistor under the playfield which is triggered by Lamp Signal L12 via transistor T13 (MPS-U45). Gottlieb did this because there weren't enough transistors on the driverboard to drive coils directly, So they used this workaround via transistors originaly meant to drive lamps.

Place saver

That blob of solder is the so called slam switch mod. It disables the slamswitch as the normally closed slamswitch contact can cause problems over the time. Gottlieb later ( around Excalibur, Big House ) applied a normally open slamswitch at the coindoor to avoid this problem.

I'm a little late to this thread but the switch matrix may be bad. Had the same problem on my MC. It was "cycling" all the 3 outholes. That was Z14. You can do a simple diode test on the Z13 and z14 and determine if any diodes are shorted internal to the chip (mine were). I ordered a new SN7400N (from digikey) shown on page 22 of manual. Be careful removing and replacing (try not to lift any tracks). That solved my issue.