If you have the schematic, look for the motor symbol (large 'M' inside a circle), then read left to right to see the paths that feed it. Note that there are zero position switches for the yellow and red bonus units, which if closed will cause the score motor to run. Also note there's a make/break switch on the SB relay, so if SB is tripped and the Control Bank doesn't reset, then the score motor will keep running. Then there are all the other switches in parallel, plus the 50 point scoring path.
I'd guess that SB is tripped and the Control Bank isn't resetting though, for starters.
Nope, those are separate issues.
Quoted from CookyJar:
Is the problem with the Control Bank have to do with a misadjusted or dirty point on the make/break switch on the SB relay or do I have to go down the motor path on the schematics to see if it's problem at down that way?
Chances are good that it's the SB armature switch, but look on your schematic at the bottom, and you'll see the Control Bank Reset coil. Read right to left for the path involved (four switches, plus the 1amp slo-blo fuse).
There's the Control Bank reset coil itself too (or a loose wire). But otherwise, you're still looking along that path to the reset coil. Those four switches, and the 1 amp slo-blo fuse and fuse holder. If the reset coil is good, then the path isn't completing to reach the coil.
If the Balls Played unit is in the backbox, then there's also a Jones plug in the path (which could need cleaning).
A jumper wire is a handy tool to quickly isolate where along that path the open may be. If you jumper from say motor 4C to the reset coil and it works, then you know the open is in between. Then jumper progressively smaller portions until it doesn't work, and then the last thing brought back in is where the open is.
And visual checks of switches can be deceiving; switches that "look" closed can fool the eye sometimes.
But probably want to at least make sure the coil is able to work before chasing other stuff too far.
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