(Topic ID: 287494)

Gottlieb Mars, God of War- Securing the Backglass

By Knxwledge

11 months ago


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  • 24 posts
  • 4 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 10 months ago by Knxwledge
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#1 11 months ago

I'm not a fan of how weak the bottom supports of the second backglass are on my Mars. The pieces of metal are very flimsy. I'm wondering what I can do to make it more secure (or how can I fasten it to the head door that swings open, so I don't have to remove the glass to get to the boards). Calling on Mars owners to show me what they've done and give me some ideas!

#2 11 months ago

Those metal clips are the reason so many MGOW backglasses were shattered. I converted my MGOW to the same method as Black Hole used to secure the backglass to the door. I'll see if I can find some pics, but is is just a couple of u-channels.

#3 11 months ago
Quoted from woz:

Those metal clips are the reason so many MGOW backglasses were shattered. I converted my MGOW to the same method as Black Hole used to secure the backglass to the door. I'll see if I can find some pics, but is is just a couple of u-channels.

Thanks! I don't know how that design passed R&D, those clips are pathetic. The little lip which prevents the glass from falling forward is only 1/8th of an inch tall, what did they expect that to protect? Glad they figured it out eventually with subsequent games

#4 11 months ago

I'm not too crazy about Black Holes channels either, the mounting screws go into the *very* edge of the particle board and the holes easily get busted up all to heck and you gotta move 'em. One is more like 1/2 of a screw hole, I can see the entire screw from the side of the board!

#5 11 months ago

Volcano has a decent mount that is solid.
It is tedious if you have to remove or install it but its in there secure.

1 week later
#6 11 months ago
Quoted from woz:

Those metal clips are the reason so many MGOW backglasses were shattered. I converted my MGOW to the same method as Black Hole used to secure the backglass to the door. I'll see if I can find some pics, but is is just a couple of u-channels.

Quoted from PinballAir:

Volcano has a decent mount that is solid.
It is tedious if you have to remove or install it but its in there secure.

You guys happen to have any pics? Where can I get a plastic u-channel that will work?

#7 11 months ago
Quoted from Knxwledge:

You guys happen to have any pics? Where can I get a plastic u-channel that will work?

I got my u channel from a parted out Black Hole

#8 11 months ago
Quoted from woz:

I got my u channel from a parted out Black Hole

What are its dimensions?

#9 11 months ago

About 20 inches long, several inches shorter than the backglass. There's an inner lip that goes against side edge of the glass so there's enough room for the screw holes and screws and to protect the backglass's edge from the screws.

If you can't find that type, you could probably substitute with just pushing a strip of thin shallow channeling over the edge of the glass to protect it from the screws, then put some wider and deeper channel over/around that (with an inner gap for clearance for the screws) and then mark it for the screw holes.

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2 weeks later
#10 10 months ago
Quoted from frenchmarky:

About 20 inches long, several inches shorter than the backglass. There's an inner lip that goes against side edge of the glass so there's enough room for the screw holes and screws and to protect the backglass's edge from the screws.
If you can't find that type, you could probably substitute with just pushing a strip of thin shallow channeling over the edge of the glass to protect it from the screws, then put some wider and deeper channel over/around that (with an inner gap for clearance for the screws) and then mark it for the screw holes.
[quoted image][quoted image]

Would one of these work? Similar style, should work the same. With this style, since it doesnt have that lip within the channel, I would do a piece on all 4 edges.
https://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/03-9421-2
https://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/03-9421-1

#11 10 months ago

Probably could use that channeling as is and make simple brackets out of pieces of plastic from the channeling left over, drill a hole thru the pieces and use them over the edge of the new channeling to secure the glass. Or just put the screws in by themselves. The screws really are there to keep the glass from sliding out, not from falling out.

#12 10 months ago
Quoted from frenchmarky:

Probably could use that channeling as is and make simple brackets out of pieces of plastic from the channeling left over, drill a hole thru the pieces and use them over the edge of the new channeling to secure the glass. Or just put the screws in by themselves. The screws really are there to keep the glass from sliding out, not from falling out.

So the middle channel really is there just to protect the glass from touching the screws? And you're saying that what actually holds the glass against the head is the pressure applied against the back of the glass from the channel created by the screws?

#13 10 months ago

What about one like this that if mounted like you have it, would put more pressure on the glass? Good or bad?
https://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/03-9420

#14 10 months ago

I only removed that one channel on mine and slid the glass out to clean it, but the top and bottom channel are attached to the backbox. So you take the side channel off and the glass can then be slid out from the top and bottom channels, which remain on the backbox. The side channel basically keeps the glass from sliding out by itself like if the game is being moved. And yeah I think the inner lip is there as a buffer for the screws with extra space behind it for the screws and their holes.

#15 10 months ago

Wait a minute, I keep forgetting yours is Mars of War, not BH. So what I've said as far as the overall attachment of your glass may be different.

#16 10 months ago
Quoted from frenchmarky:

Wait a minute, I keep forgetting yours is Mars of War, not BH. So what I've said as far as the overall attachment of your glass may be different.

Yeahhhh, I will take a photo of the entire backbox part that swings out, I dont know how it differs from a BH

#17 10 months ago

Pics

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#18 10 months ago

Okay I slid the glass out again from my BH (was curious myself as to how the other three channels were attached since I hadn't really looked before).

Inner, top and bottom are simple backglass channels with no inner lip, 3/4" wide, stapled to backbox. Inner channel is a little shorter, doesn't need to cover entire length. The top and bottom ones do cover entire length of glass. Only about 1/8" to spare on the frame (where if channeling was an inch wide it would be visibly extending past the edge of the frame) so you really want to stick with something 3/4" wide, or something you can trim to that.

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#19 10 months ago

So that channeling you found that is 5/8" *appears* that it would work with enough room on the 'fat' side for stapling it or however you choose to attach it (would need to be something like staples that are relatively flush with the channel so doesn't interfere with the glass sliding thru). This exact channel in BH would be best though since it has the raised edge on the fat side to help the glass clear the staples.

#20 10 months ago
Quoted from frenchmarky:

This exact channel in BH would be best though since it has the raised edge on the fat side to help the glass clear the staples.

I used the BH backglass channel when I converted my MGOW backglass.

#21 10 months ago

BUT - now that i think of it that 5/8" stuff you found could fit pretty tight on the glass. Probably does. If does then it's not a good solution, you want the glass to easily slide along the entire length. Perhaps you can look around more and find something same as the BH channelling.

#22 10 months ago
Quoted from frenchmarky:

BUT - now that i think of it that 5/8" stuff you found could fit pretty tight on the glass. Probably does. If does then it's not a good solution, you want the glass to easily slide along the entire length. Perhaps you can look around more and find something same as the BH channelling.

Thanks for your pictures, now it makes sense. I will try to source something that's close as possible, or maybe a used set off a parted out BH if I can find it.

#23 10 months ago

If I was doing it and the 5/8" stuff was way too tight and was all I could find, I might try using a tool of some sort like pliers or whatever to bend that whole short side out somewhat along the whole length to loosen it up so the glass would slide easy. Depends on how durable and bendable that stuff is.

#24 10 months ago
Quoted from frenchmarky:

If I was doing it and the 5/8" stuff was way too tight and was all I could find, I might try using a tool of some sort like pliers or whatever to bend that whole short side out somewhat along the whole length to loosen it up so the glass would slide easy. Depends on how durable and bendable that stuff is.

I'm gonna buy the 5/8" pieces for the top, left and bottom, and this one (https://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/03-8229-1) for the right side. I will put the closed edge of the channel toward the right edge, and the little lip on the left side can just hang there. It shouldn't get in the way, and if it does I can trim it down. Hopefully this works

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