Just passing through.
Looks like you measured the transformer voltages with your black meter lead on ground?
AC voltages out of the transformer need to be measured across the transformer windings, i.e one multi-meter lead on one side of the winding, the other multi-meter lead on the other side of the winding.

So, to measure the 10VAC output, one meter lead goes on transformer lug 3, the other meter lead on lug 7.
60VAC across lugs 8 and 9
12VAC across lugs 16 and 17

The centre tap windings at lugs 10, 11, 12 actually has DC applied to the centre lug 11 downstream at one of the circuit boards. Measure the DC voltage at lug 11 with the red meter lead, black meter lead on ground.
Then measure the AC voltages between lugs 10 and 11, then 11 and 12.

Ditto for the centre tap windings at lugs 13, 14, 15 respectively. Lug 14 also has DC applied to it downstream.

The voltages at the fuses are on the AC side before the bridge rectifiers, measuring them with respect to ground on DC isn't how to test them.
You can check them with the power on by setting your multi-meter to AC voltage and put a meter lead on each side of the fuse. You should read zero volts.
Better yet, measure AC voltage at the fuse with respect to the opposite winding lug at the transformer.

When you put your meter on resistance mode and put both probes together, do you read zero ohms? probably not. The discrepancy on that R12 resistor is likely just your meter not being calibrated. When wirewound resistors fail, they usually go open circuit.

Which 47uF capacitor blew?

To measure the DC voltages at the bridges, set the multi-meter to DC voltage, black meter lead goes on the "-" bridge leg, red meter lead goes on the "+" bridge leg.

I don't see any wirewound resistors on the playfield schematics (maybe I just missed it). Where is this resistor? Is it also supposed to be a 0.33 ohms? Unsolder one leg and remeasure it to get its real resistance value so the reading isn't affected by other circuitry.

If you're going to replace wirewound resistors with metal film, be very careful to get the wattage rating same or higher on the replacement. Note ceramics are generally larger in size so are better capable of dissipating the heat.

Well those readings indicate fuse F2 is open circuit and F4 is suspect - or there's bad connections on the fuse holders.

Your opening post says you've got 5.1V at TP4 on the power-supply board which is the output of Q3 and is about correct. Is this not the case anymore?

9.5V sounds low to me which indicates the big capacitor across the 12V bridge isn't doing its job.

BTW, what exactly is the issue you're trying to sort out right now?