Before moving on and plugging in the rest of the boards to my Mars, I want to make sure on a couple of things. I've rebuilt the mandatory parts on the power supply board according to Pinwiki, repinned 3 molex plugs that plug in to power supply, done the backbox ground mods (but not ran anything from the head to the bottom of the cabinet or messed with the interconnect harness), replaced the BR and caps on the sound/speech power supply, changed out the 3 BRs and the original orange Sprague cap in the bottom of the cabinet, and made sure all fuses are rated appropriately. I changed the orange Sprague with a 12000uf 25v Ritchey, the sound/speech cap with a 4700uf 63v Kemet, and all BRs with 400v 35a. Parts were bought from Digikey and GPE.

The mistake I made was wiring the BR on the sound/speech board wrong initially. I goofed, and since there was no clear indicator for pos and neg on the old BR, I decided not to look in the manual and assume I knew. Bad idea, but not catastrophic. When I rebuilt everything and powered the game on for the first time, after about 30 seconds the small 47uf cap blew. Pulled the board out, checked the diode and resistor in that area which were fine, then realized I had mounted the BR with negative where positive was supposed to be, and therefore soldered all lugs wrong. I've now soldered the lugs correctly, but is there anything else I could have damaged on that board? I would like to check before I plug it in again.

Also, I'm getting these voltages from the power supply board (with nothing else plugged in):
TP1: 68v
TP2: 50.6v
TP4: 5.1v adjusted with the pot (should I turn it down closer to 5.0v?)
TP5: 6.95v

Now I notice that TP1, 2 and 5 close, but not exact. Is this fine? I'm assuming yes because they're not under load/potentially could be unregulated but I want to confirm first. I don't have Fuse F3 (8a slow for controlled lamps) because I don't have any on hand, or any close to it like a 7a or 7.5a slow that I could just stick in for testing purposes. Doubt that makes a difference.

One more question... is the wire that goes to the chaser light board from the A2J3 housing I repinned in the correct spot, or should it be in the pin above it? I cut it and wasnt paying attention, and I couldnt figure it out from the schematics

20210220_001213 (resized).jpg

I found this video of a guy testing a System 80 under no load and his voltages were closer to what they were written as on the board than mine.

Guess I should start troubleshooting?

All measurements are in DC
J1 pin 1: 9.5v (labeled as 12vdc source)
Banded side J2: 83.6v (labeled as 76.4v)
Ic1 pin 10: 5.7v (labeled as 7.0v)
J1 pin 7: 41.3v (labeled as 60v AC input)

So Im thinking I either have a problem with the way I wired the BRs in the cabinet or a problem with the transistors on the power supply board (Q1, Q2 and Q3)? Likely not Q3 because my 5v is good and my 12v appears to be low directly where it enters the board. Any help appreciated

Edit: I was reading this thread https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/gottlieb-system-80-power-supply-advice#post-6013748 and I see talks of CR7 causing issues on the 8v. I will check this, because I've already replaced the resistor R10 with the suggested upgrade.

Had some time tonight, let me report my findings. Very strange.........
So I checked Q1 Q2, R1-R5, CR5 and CR6. Everything was good, but I replaced Q1 Q2 anyway. A couple of the BR wires in the bottom of the cabinet were crimped, not soldered, so I soldered them to ensure a good connection. I then checked every output on the transformer because that's the last thing it could be, really... Attached is a picture of my findings, and I'm sure my handwriting is chicken scratch to most, so I will write down the strangest findings. All are in AC:

8v (blk/orn) = 16.2v
25v (red/slate) = 44v
60v (lug 9) = 88v
10v (lug 16) = 35v
10v (lug 17) = 45v
12v (lug 7) = 23v

It's looking like bad transformers! Unless someone has a way to test them differently to make 100% sure, it's looking like I'm gonna need to find some kind of replacement or buy good used ones. The fuses in the bottom of the cabinet aren't blowing.
20210221_231742 (resized).jpg

Thanks, I will retest correctly and report back

Transformer voltages:
10vac (lug 17 and 16) is 13.18vac
60vac (lug 8 and 9) is 63.97vac
Lug 11 dc voltage is 1.0 but inconsistent
Ac from 10 to 11 is 2.8vac
Ac from 11 to 12 is 2.8vac
Lug 14 dc voltage is 2v but inconsistent
Lug 13 to 14 ac is 1.6vac
Lug 14 to 15 ac is 1.6vac
Larger transformer:
Ac at 8v lugs is 9.09vac
Ac at 6v lugs is 6.9vac

The inconsistent DC voltages started higher and as the cabinet was turned on, it went down. Seemed to stabilize at the voltages I posted

Dc voltages at the fuses with black lead on cabinet ground:
F1: readings start at 310v and go down to 275v
F2: 279v
F3: 7.7v
F4: starts at 20v and goes down to 0-0.2v (with sound speech PS unplugged)
F5: 24v
F6: 48v
F7: starts at 7v and goes down to 0-0.2v

Just cleaned the fuse holders, no change

Dc voltages on the BRs (with black lead on negative, red leads going clockwise):
Power supply/sound board lug: 23.5v/28.3v/24v
Lamp: 1.4v/20v/8.5v
Solenoid: 48v/80v/47v

I checked the rest of the resistors on the power supply board and the only thing I found bad was R12. It's a 0.33ohm 5w wirewound and it is reading 0.7ohm. Do the 1000pf and 2uf caps at C3 and C5 ever go bad? Can I replace a wirewound resistor with a metal film one?

Checking Q3:
One leg to another 0.6
Swapped leads 2.0
Black lead on legs, red on base tested open both times
Red leads on legs, black on base tested 0.6 both times

To answer my own question in regard to the miswiring of the sound/speech BR... the other 2 lugs that arent positive and negative dont lead anywhere except for the molex plug. So no, I didnt damage anything else besides that one cap which blew.

Anyone have any advice on the power issue? Leaning toward a bad IC1, but I dont think that would explain the low 12v

The cap that blew was on the sound/speech PS board because I installed the BR backwards. It's fine now.
The resistance between my 2 meters is about 1.3ohm. So I guess the one on the PS is fine
I have another wirewound resistor of the same rating under the PF that needs to be replaced. It's testing 2.4ohm. Is the metal film one fine to use? Is the second reading I got when testing Q3 suspect, or is it okay?

I will retest the fuse AC voltages (with the exception of F3 because I don't have the 8 amp SB fuse at the moment)

Fuses tested on AC:
F1: 0
F2: ~55
F3: cant test
F4: 6.3
F5: 0
F6: 0
F7: 0

I checked the fuses, theyre fine, except the 7.5a one at F2 is an 8A one. I checked the 115v on both transformers, and with 1 lead on 115, 1 lead on common I got 117vac for both.

I rechecked the BR DC measurements and Im getting:
Power supply/sound board: 16.7v
Lamps; 4.0
Solenoids: 35.5v

Some pictures (I know R12 isnt soldered in/the metal film one instead of the wirewound)

20210224_183355 (resized).jpg20210224_183358 (resized).jpg20210224_183408 (resized).jpg20210224_183413 (resized).jpg

20210224_183736 (resized).jpg

20210224_183733 (resized).jpg

20210224_183739 (resized).jpg

I got the 2.4ohm reading with one leg unsoldered. I will take a pic of where it's located under the PF

I will try swapping the fuses, and if that doesn't change anything I could try changing the fuse holder block.

No, my 5v is fine. Is Q3 only for the 5v?

The high 60v, 42v and low 8v indicated in post 1
TP1: 68v
TP2: 50.6v
TP5: 6.95v
This big capacitor, are you referring to the 470uf cap on the PS board? I've changed that

Before I go through the trouble of putting the PS board back to test E4 and E2, I have already replaced CR7 and R10 with the suggested "upgrades" (I will double check I used the right resistor). I replaced the electrolytic caps on it, replaced the 500ohm pot, added a ground wire, replaced Q1 and Q2 despite them testing fine, changed out the 3 male molex pins, repinned the female pins and checked every single resistor and diode on the board. The only things I haven't really checked are SRC1 and IC1

Picture of the location of the 0.33ohm 5w resistor on the pf. The other leg is connected to the cap and the unsoldered wire.

Changed fuses with known good ones, nothing changed.

I actually found a 7a 250v SB fuse to test F3 and it tested good

For R10 I used a 680ohm 1/2w resistor, and a 8.2v 1w zener for Cr7
20210225_134942 (resized).jpg

No cracked joints. I verified I repinned J1 correctly
All measurements in Dc:
E2: 69.2v
E3: 6.9v
E4: 9.5v

Are these BR measurements a problem(the ones in the cabinet next to the filter cap)?
Power supply/sound board: 16.7v
Lamps; 4.0
Solenoids: 35.5v

When removing Q3 again I think I may have broke it. If the leg moves up and down in the case, Im gonna guess thats not okay

R1 gives me 1.3k, Cr5 gives me 0.699 and open using diode test, swapping leads. Both were done with 1 leg out of circuit. Solder joints on Cr5 and R1 look fine

Should I change R10 to something else?

Measurements at filter cap:
Dc is 571v
Ac is 0v

Im using an Aneng AN8009, I grabbed another meter, a Sperry Dm-6400, and Im getting 0.57v DC, 0v AC with it. Just tested it with the Aneng again, and now Im getting 24v DC and the Sperry says 0.024v DC.... I dunno what the deal is with these meters

Ignore everything in post #24, I figured it out and I'm not happy with myself. It turns out BOTH crimps on the filter cap were bad. I yanked the wire right out of both terminals with little effort. Recrimped them properly, and I'm getting 14.7v at the filter cap, the 12v BR and J1 pin 1. I'm relieved, but also very annoyed with myself

Im still having the same issues with my F2 and F4 fuses, and the 6v Lamp bridge tests 12v, and the 24v Solenoid bridge tests 36v. My F8 primary fuse also gives me ~70v AC

https://homepinballrepair.com/finding-and-testing-fuses/

The only thing I found on what to do if you have AC current on the fuse block is to replace the fuse... but Ive already tried that and it didn't change anything. I will try changing the primary fuse and see if it affects the AC current on the other two

Edit: Changing the fuse didn't work. The primary fuse F8 now tests ~26v AC tested from one edge of the holder to the other.

This ended up being it. I didn't realize in the bottom right of my auto-ranging meter it said mV. All readings I got from the fuses were in mV not V. Thank you

I think the last question I have for the moment is, am I good to replace the 0.33ohm 5w wirewound resistor under the PF with a metal film one of the exact same rating? Picture in post 18. Other than that, I've gotta order another Q3 (which are $11 at Marcos!!!!!), reinstall the PS board and make sure my voltages are fine once more, then power it on for real

Ooooh okay I should have those, I was confused about that. What can I replace these with? Theyre under the PF as well, should I just swap them even if theyre not bad?

20210227_112533 (resized).jpg

20210227_112544 (resized).jpg

Great, will do. Thanks for your help so far, Im sure I will need more when I get to turning the game on fully, but this should get me going for quite a while.

Scratch my last message, something weird is going on. The filter cap is holding 10.95v DC with the game unplugged, and when I plugged in J1 on the power supply the LEDs lit up right away. I instantly unplugged it. This is all with the game completely powered off. Is this normal? Maybe when I unplugged the terminals from their poorly crimped housing I shorted the cap or something. The 10.95v reading went up to ~14v once I powered the game on, then turned it off again

With black lead on pos lug and red lead on neg lug Im getting a short on continuity test on the filter capacitor. Wires still connected

My 24v solenoid bridge is testing 77v now, and my 6v lamp bridge is testing 11 now. I get the feeling these readings arent accurate, but Ive checked it with 2 meters and I get the same thing

Got it, I didnt notice this same behavior when I was working on my Bally Lost World, so I wasnt sure if it was normal. Thank you!