what I meant was wire 60 segments in a daisy chain won't necessarily connect in the order things are drawn on the schematic.
the setup switch has a double wire 60 on the blade. The schem would suggest one goes to a tilt relay switch and the other to a hold relay switch, but that's not where they necessarily go. They probably go to whatever is physically closest.
before doing anything, I'd take a look at what's going on in your 3rd pic in post 46. Where are the wires connected to the ring terminal that is also tied to wire 60 going? Also check score motor switches just to ensure the bent lugs on the switch blades aren't touching or a loose wire strand is bridging them. You can unbend the lugs or bend them the other way to ensure no contact with each other.
below is the schem. The breaker pops when the red and yellow circuit are tied together without enough resistance between them to limit the current below 10A
You said you put paper between the slide switch contacts and the breaker still pops. The below assumes you have paper in there so 56 and 58 are not connected.
That means:
1] when the game is first turned on, the red circuit is all that has the 25V power.
2] the yellow circuit is all that is connected to neutral
3] the breaker is happy.
4] you close the setup switch and now all the blue stuff is connected to yellow and the breaker pops. The obvious answer is the hold relay coil is bad, but you disconnected that and the breaker still pops, so somehow the red and blue circuits are connecting together.
for example, if a green highlighted tilt switch was stuck closed and the tilt coil resistance was too low (coil is bad), that would pop the breaker.
with power off stick an ohmeter probe on wire 60 and other probe on the breaker and you'd be measuring the resistance of the hold relay coil ... assuming none of the green switches are closed. If they are, then you'd be measuring the hold and tilt coils in parallel, but is still shouldn't be near zero ohms.
if you open/stick paper between the tilt relay switch contacts with wires 60 and 55 on the blades (the tilt switch in the blue path), your meter should then show infinite ohms. If it doesn't, you have a short.
pull the playfield plug and stick the probes on wire 60 and 56 on the plug pins. If you don't have infinite ohms, the problem is on the playfield. If you do, stick the probes on 60 and 56 in the socket and open the tilt switch. If you don't have infinite ohms, the problem is in the cabinet or head. I assume you can pull a head plug to eliminate the head.
once narrowed down to the playfield, cabinet or head, then you can disconnect wire 60 and separate the wires to see which segment has the issue and follow that.
hopefully 10% of the above made sense and you can figure out what to do. The alternative is just separate wire 60 segments and close the setup switch until the breaker stops popping, then reconnect and work your way down the segment problem segment.
note that wire 60 is attached to unit frames, so check those units carefully looking for switch blades or wires that are touching the frame when they shouldn't be. The switch blades should have "fish paper" insulation when they are pushed by things on the unit ... make sure the paper isn't sliced thru.
lucky star problem (resized).jpg
btw, in previous posts you said the breaker trips when you manually close the hold relay. Just to be sure, the only thing you are currently doing is turning on the game and manually closing the setup switch, right? The hold relay is unpowered and nothing is obviously powering when the setup switch closes ... you close the setup switch and the 10A breaker in the 25V circuit immediately pops?