(Topic ID: 140499)

Gottlieb Jungle - stays in Game Over (SOLVED)

By RobertWinter

8 years ago


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#1 8 years ago

Word of warning - I know nothing about fixing EMs. I do not have the schematics, not that I would know how to read them anyway.

I just had a Gottlieb Jungle fall in my lap here at work. Game will power up into Game Over and Tilt. Game has credits. Pressing the Start button initially does nothing. Manually tripping the reset bank will cause the score motor to turn once. Tilt light goes off, score reels do not reset, still in Game over.

Now, pressing the Start button decreases the credit wheel by one, the score motor turns once and then stops. Still in Game Over. No reset of any scoring reels. I can do this a total of three times and then nothing until I start the entire process over again.

Also, it's missing the chime unit and the lockdown bar if anyone can help with that. I'll probably make a separate WTB post for those.

Any help is appreciated. If it gets too involved, I do know of a good local EM tech that I can hire.

#2 8 years ago

Looks like your Jungle has a problem with the Player Unit, which is located in the middle of the backbox. On this PU there are 20 positions for the 4 players x 5 balls, and two positions for the reset of the game.
Look for the solenoid of the PU and try to rotate it manually. Then you must see a change in the lamps. After position 20 (4 player, 5 ball) there will be position 21: look if the machine will reset your counters. Also try pos. 22.
If reset ends, the player unit must go to position 1: first player, first ball.

I think the solenoid of the PU is broken or there is a problem in the wiring to this solenoid.

Good luck

#3 8 years ago
Quoted from RobertWinter:

Word of warning - I know nothing about fixing EMs. I do not have the schematics, not that I would know how to read them anyway.

You might try and find someone in your area to walk you through the basics and get it going...or be prepared for a lot of research. I assume you know someone that works on SS games or you can work on those? EM's are not difficult once you've done it a few times but starting out it can be tough.

Typically if you have a dead EM that hasn't been serviced or shopped in some time it'll need a fair amount of work. Cleaning all the score reels, steppers, bonus, everything in the start path...if you know where to look you can probably get it "started" but it'll take some time to clean the whole thing up.

You can buy chime units via pbresource, lockdown bars are a little tougher and may be more expensive.

Also--once you get it squared away and going it won't need much to keep it that way...so might be worth having that Tech get you jump started.

#4 8 years ago

I've cleaned all the contacts on the PU (not any of the switch stacks), cleaned all jones plugs in the backbox and bottom panel, but I still get NOTHING happening with the score reels or any real reset activity.

If I manually trigger the control bank reset relay, the score motor turns and the reset bank relays fire, but no other reset activity. The only relay that seems to fire in the backbox is on the credit unit when I press the start button.

BTW, the player 3 and 4 score reel lights are always ON. If I manually trigger the PU, I can get it to cycle through players 1 and 2, then 3 and 4 which are stuck on, then back to player 1.

Any help is appreciated.

Quoted from Wickerman2:

You might try and find someone in your area to walk you through the basics and get it going...or be prepared for a lot of research.

I do have a local EM tech that I will call upon once I've completely given up...

#5 8 years ago

Wickerman2 is right, if it's been sitting for a long time, it's going to need some work....
I would do a systematic approach as per Clay's guide - http://www.pinrepair.com/em/index.htm

Stepper motors will be sticky, switch stacks loose, score reels gummed up...etc, etc.

#6 8 years ago

OK, I guess I'll start rebuilding score reels then. I know what to do with those at least and there are 16 of them!

#7 8 years ago

The first thing I'd suggest doing is getting the schematics. Even if you don't know how to use them (yet), anyone who might be able to help on it locally will benefit from having them.

Then the next thing to debug is the replay button path and getting it to energize the Start relay reliably.

Gottlieb transitioned the multi-player design a bit in the early 70's, so I'm not sure what variety Jungle has (I don't have the schematics either). Here's a link to the startup sequence of a Jack in the Box though ('73):
http://user.xmission.com/~daina/tips/pub/tip0480.html

Does Jungle have the Z1, Z2, and Z3 reset configuration? Knowing what variety Jungle has could probably determine a close enough schematic to go on.

#8 8 years ago

Here's some schematic pictures I found in past posts. I'll get a hard copy at some point...

62438.jpg62438.jpg

62520.jpg62520.jpg

62521.jpg62521.jpg

#9 8 years ago

yes, this config uses the Z1, Z2, Z3 reset relays, so it's very similar to the Jack in the Box startup sequence I linked to above.

If you manually reset the Control Bank (before powering the game on), have a credit on the game, then press the replay button, how far does it get?

Does SB1 trip on the Control Bank?

#10 8 years ago

My Jungle would do this when one of the fuses would blow. Sorry, I don't remember which one. And fuse holders in old EM's have always had the crap beat out of them. I would check those first.

While I agree the machine needs to be gone through, I suggest getting the basic functions working first, then rebuild one part at a time. It's always easier to find a problem when you know where to look.

#11 8 years ago
Quoted from DirtFlipper:

yes, this config uses the Z1, Z2, Z3 reset relays, so it's very similar to the Jack in the Box startup sequence I linked to above.
If you manually reset the Control Bank (before powering the game on), have a credit on the game, then press the replay button, how far does it get?
Does SB1 trip on the Control Bank?

SB1 does not trip. Here's what happens.

Manually reset the Control Bank with the power off, credits on the game, power the machine on, Game Over relay trips.

Press the replay button. Hold Relay triggers, Replay Button Relay triggers, Start Relay triggers, PB2 (2nd player) Relay triggers, credit wheel decrements, score motor spins once and stops. No scoring wheel movement/reset, Game Over and Tilt lights lit, players 3 and 4 score reel lights are both on, # of players on backglass stays at 4.

I have tightened and cleaned all the switch stacks in the backbox. I can manually select a player on the PU, then trigger the scoring reels manually using the scoring relays. So it seems all the voltages are there.

Pressing the Replay Button two more times will trigger PB3 and PB4 along with the credit unit decrementing each time and the score motor spinning once. Then nothing.

#12 8 years ago
Quoted from RobertWinter:

PB2 (2nd player) Relay triggers

OK, so this is incorrect behavior at least. Pressing the replay button once should only start the game for a 1-player game and get through the startup/reset sequence. If PB2 is tripping right away, then that suggests there's a problem in the path that activates it. (This also deviates from the startup sequence I linked to above, so you can spot stuff like this by comparing to what you observe.)

You don't mention ZB having tripped, and there's a make/break switch there that needs one part to be closed to complete the path to activate PB2 (and the other part closed to activate SB1). So would next need to confirm that ZB definitely is not tripping, and if not, then check that make/break switch. Since SB1 is not tripping and PB2 is, it sounds like ZB is in the wrong state.

#13 8 years ago

SIGNS OF LIFE!

Following your advice, I located the ZB relay on the reset bank. After figuring out that the entire reset bank will actually flip up to allow servicing (I *told* you I was a newbie), it became obvious how mis-aligned the switches were on the ZB relay. After adjusting the switches properly and cleaning/adjusting all the other switches, I held my breath and powered up the game.

I pressed the replay button and the game came to life, attempting to reset all the score reels. I haven't cleaned all the reels yet so players 3 and 4 are still very sticky. So the score motor continually ran.

I shut the game off and manually reset all of player 3 and 4 score reels to 0. Powered on the machine again, pressed the replay button, and the game happily continued on the reset sequence, resetting both players 2 then 1 to all 0. It seemed to be going along great until the end of the reset sequence when the reset relays fired. The reset bank pulled in then the 25v fuse blew.

Replaced the fuse, powered on the game, pressed the replay button, game went through same sequence. As soon as the reset bank pulled in the 25v fuse blew immediately.

I metered all the coils in the bottom panel and the Tilt Hold "H" relay seems to be shorted. I'm assuming this is probably the culprit? If I disconnect one side of the coil, would that be the best was to verify?

BTW, thanks for the help thus far. I'm actually learning stuff!

#14 8 years ago

I unsoldered the H relay and it tests fine. So it's something else.

Another thing, if I manually trigger the Control Bank Reset Relay, the score motor will spin once then the reset bank relays trigger. The 25v fuse does NOT blow in this instance. It's something else that's happening during the startup sequence.

#15 8 years ago

I'm guessing you have a stuck coil somewhere in line. It sounds like the fuse blows when it is energizing everything for gameplay.

#16 8 years ago

BTW, I'm doing all this with the playfield disconnected and out of the cabinet.

#17 8 years ago

More info. All of the relays on the reset bank meter at 3.9 ohms except for the ZB and QB coils which meter at 2 ohms.

<Update> - with ZB and QB tripped, they both meter at 3.9 ohms.

#18 8 years ago

Sounds similar to a problem that got resolved in another thread on here recently - off to find it. (The fuse was blowing after the reset completed and the Control Bank reset, but was really from completing the circuit to activate the playfield.)

#19 8 years ago

OK, found that thread, and in that case it was a stuck pop bumper that was causing the 25V fuse to blow following the final Control Bank reset.

But since you've already got the playfield removed, then those candidates are eliminated.

Is the Player Unit advancing OK?

#20 8 years ago
Quoted from DirtFlipper:

Is the Player Unit advancing OK?

Yes.

4 weeks later
#21 8 years ago

Final attempt to get this running before I call in a professional! I'm using a circuit breaker instead of a fuse as per Clay so I'm not going through so many fuses.

Still same problem. Playfield is disconnected and removed from cabinet. Power on machine. Press the start button, reset sequence runs, control bank resets, a second or so later the breaker (25v/10A) will blow. I'm noticing the only coils that seem energized before it blows are the "R" Hold relay and the "H" Tilt Hold relay. They both release once the breaker blows.

#22 8 years ago

The likely causes are still either a stuck solenoid coil (but not one on the playfield of course), or truly a short (metal across part of the circuit that shouldn't be there). A stuck solenoid is usually fairly easy to spot, but a stray short can be tough to track down.

Since it only occurs after the Control Bank is reset, check the list of relays that are on that bank, and what circuits those relays involve. When that bank resets, certain switches on those relays will close. You could try blocking those switches until the fuse stops blowing, to further isolate which relay on the Control Bank is activating the path that is experiencing the short. Once you know which relay is involved, then you can follow that circuit to the other coils on it and check for shorts. The goal here is to first identify and isolate which part of the circuit is causing the fuse to blow, and the key is to determine which relay on the Control Bank is closing a switch from the bank reset that's energizing that part of the circuit.

#23 8 years ago

I've narrowed it down to one of the switches on the QB Game Over relay. If I block a contact on one of the switches, it will reset and not blow the breaker. When I unblock the switch, it sparks when it closes and blows the breaker. I've included a picture showing the contacts that are connected to the problem area. The one side looks to have two different colored wires attached (WHT-YEL and WHT-RED).

jungle_switch.jpgjungle_switch.jpg

I guess I need to get a schematic now.

#24 8 years ago

Further info. That WHT-RED wire goes to a 6-position Jones plug in the backbox. If I unplug that, it doesn't blow. When I plug it in (after the reset sequence), it seems like that is being shorted to the position on the plug that has a black wire on it, which I'm assuming is ground.

Looked around for obvious shorts, didn't see any yet. All coils seem to meter properly.

#25 8 years ago

Unfortunately, that RED+WH wire from QB is the main 24V line that enables most of the playfield and backbox. The switch closing on QB completes the path. The BLK wire is the return path to the transformer. Normally everything else 'in between' those two wires are logically in parallel, with one or more switches controlling whether the path completes from the RED+WH wire to the BLK, via a coil to be energized. (So for example, a flipper or kicker switch is open, which prevents the flipper or kicker coil from firing until the switch closes.)

But, that still does narrow things down a bit. Things that are 'after' that QB switch will include the points relays (e.g., M, N, L), pop bumpers, kickers, flippers, and the associated controlling relays. Chimes coils.

But won't include score reels, credit unit, player unit, bonus unit (so not steppers).

It basically narrows it to about half. Stuff on the playfield, and a few things in the backbox.

Removing the Jones plug is just opening the general path, so about the same as blocking the switch on QB.

So, that is progress, but still looking for a short.

#26 8 years ago

At least I know the short is somewhere in the back box since the playfield is disconnected.

I'll dig deeper tomorrow.

#27 8 years ago

I found the short!

There was a wire coming off the Player 1 tens score reel that was *just* touching the ground lug of the N relay which was just below it. Now everything resets as it should.

I plugged in the playfield and got 90% of that working as well. All switches work and score, pop bumper works and scores, bonus unit advances and lights the appropriate lights, outlane gates open and close properly. The only things left are a slightly weak left flipper (the EOS switch is adjusted/cleaned, might be a bad coil), none of the rollover lights are working, and the pop bumper light does not toggle (it's only off). The A relay is toggling on every 10 point switch but nothing changes on the playfield lighting-wise. Oh, and the trough kickout solenoid never fires.

Appreciate all the help so far. I now have a semi-playable machine. Just need to iron out all the little stuff.

#28 8 years ago

Good find. Those types of shorts are tough to track down.

1 week later
#29 8 years ago

Hopefully this is the final update. Once I had the schematic in hand, I was able to trace down the rollover and pop bumper light issue as well as the ball return coil not firing. Everything came down to switch cleaning and adjustments.

Thanks to a fellow Pinsider for missing parts (lockdown bar, chime unit, knocker assembly) and PBR for lots of new playfield parts, the game is now complete and fully functional.

I completed the playfield using Titan rubbers. I think the green adds a nice pop and the orange flipper rubbers are a nice contrast that fits the cabinet color scheme. I also went with white rubber post caps instead of the standard metal speed nuts.

Here are some pics.

Jungle full.jpgJungle full.jpg
Jungle playfield.jpgJungle playfield.jpg

2 weeks later
#30 8 years ago

Not bad for a free game, Robert.

Are you happy with the way it turned out and how it plays?

Three friends and I put 100 games on a Jungle in the dorm at U of Michigan on one quarter one Saturday afternoon back in about 1975.

#31 8 years ago

Aside from the main cabinet being a little more weathered than I would prefer, I'm happy with how it turned out. It cleaned up nicely and is fun to play a few games once in a while here at work!

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