DC pops are more powerful. The regular AC pops can do that for a while, more so when the game is high tapped. I see similar behavior in our Williams Skylab, if you get the ball in the right spot. Those are DC coils as well. You could try larger rings to get less bounce, but that changes your chances of saving the ball from draining as well.

Just my two cents based on the behaviors I’ve seen on two games that I’ve rehabbed.

Good luck,
Dave

Nooooooooooooooooo!

I'm interested, too. My Williams Grand Prix machine guns between both pop bumpers and the game sides. After enough strong nudging it may stop, or at times I have to shut the game down.

Seems to affect all manufacturers. It happens on my Williams Magic Town and Bally Flip Flop. Any game with a stretched ring near a pop bumper. There's just not enough distance between the two to get it to change direction. I haven't tried this but you might try a slightly over-sized ring, The softer rebound and increased travel of the ring might supply it with some extra variability. Might look a little odd, but worth a shot.

Wouldn't it be easier to reduce the power by removing the rectifiers and converting back to AC?

What edednedy said. I kept the A-4893 AC coils that are standard to Jumping Jack, took off 3 layers of wire off of each coil. The Pops have plenty of power (enough to sometimes reach the drop targets) and I’ve never had that happen for more than a few seconds through thousands of games played.

curious as to what DC voltage you are seeing on the flippers and pops?

I also at most see a couple seconds of pop to wall bouncing back and forth, but I am stock. Gameplay also changed a lot for the better when I lowered it down in slope. everyone seems to want to crank everything up to make it harder, but I'm still not down to the 3.5 degrees the manual says to put it at, probably 4.5-5. I might have to try the 3.5 (leg levelers all the way in) sometime, but may actually make it too easy to shoot back to the top holes.

yeah, 30VDC is kinda high, when gottlieb went DC in system1 it was only 25VDC and they used coils with higher ohms as well. I think they did some later em's with DC flippers and maybe pops but don't know the specs on those.

I'd probably put it back to AC and high tap if you wanted a little boost.

I'd love to see how its wired. I wanted to do the same thing to a few games using 1 rectifier. I have an EM Cleopatra with the DC pops and flippers and its a lot more reactive. For the flippers, they use A-17875 and the pops are A-1496. May try those coils?

Edit*** Not sure if they will fit, on the back of the manual it lists new items appearing in this game and has new coil mounting bracket and stops for the flipper and pop bumper coils. I think the coil stops are different for DC coils?

Thanks for doing that.. Its a pretty basic circuit. I'm going to give it a shot on something here when I get a chance..

Just noticed this posting and read the responses. I was plagued with the same issue a few years ago with my son's Hollywood: ball machine-gunning between one pop bumper and its opposing rebound rubber. The solution for me was simple. I moved the top playfield post holding that rubber ring a fraction of an inch outward -- just enough to change its radial geometry and bounce dynamics. It worked. Of course I had to drill another post hole, but it's barely noticeable. Maybe it was just machine, but I thought I'd mention this.

I can't recall exactly, and I don't have access to the machine right now. Guessing 1/8" to try to keep the old and new holes covered beneath the post base. But before you drill a new hole, try these tricks first (I didn't think of them at the time):

a. experiment with the ring tension by using a larger diameter ring;

a. remove one fat plastic post and just use the thin metal post as a test. It will change the angle of the ring which should be enough to make a difference. If it works, cut/modify the plastic post into 2 pieces to keep the ring from moving up/down.