Do you have the manual? Page 2 has the startup sequence. How far is is getting?

Sounds like you’re at step 5 of the startup: “At the same time the player unit steps up to its zero position thru a motor 1A switch in series with a switch on “SB” and a run switch on the player unit (P5B).”

I’d look at switch P5B to make sure it opens and the solder tabs aren’t shorted.
This circuit is around 18E in the schematic.

Good luck,

Dave

There was only one more evolution of Gottlieb’s score reels after the style that was used in Jack in the Box. So... 2?

The only thing that matters when you put it back on: the wiper fingers should be centered well on a set of rivets.

A washer and screw in the upper right corner can be removed, allowing the unit to swing down into the service position.

Yes it matters. The shaft that it mounts on goes through to the cams that activate the switches. If put on wrong the Ball In Play lights won't light correctly, and the Last Ball relay (XB) and Last Ball Score Control relay (LB) won't activate at the proper time.

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Here is mine at the end of the reset sequence, with the ball sitting in the shooter lane.
Yours looks 180 degrees opposite.

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Howard is right. I didn’t really pay attention to this detail when rebuilding my player unit. I think there’s a 1-in-3 chance of getting it right, and I must have been lucky.

The reels on jack in the box match your “1st generation” table. The middle switch is the 9 switch. The outer ones are labeled “runout” and “reset”.

Dave

Does the game reset otherwise and kick the ball out?

Hmm. Nothings common to all 4 10000s.
Player 1 uses the runout switch on the reel, a switch on z1, and pulses from score motor 4a.
Player 2 uses the runout switch, a switch on z2, and pulses from score motor 1A.
Player 3 “. “ “ z3, 4a
Player 4 “ “ “ z3, 1A.

Do the 10000 reels move while the score motor runs, or sit still?
Do you see z1, z2, or z3 engaging?

It’s probably stuck on the first player being reset because the z1,z2,z3 sequence cant move forward until that happens. Could be a broken wire on the runout switches or the zero switches.

Dave

One or more of the 10,000 point score reel 0 position switches isn't opening.
Which ones of the Z1, Z2, Z3 relays are staying activated when this happens?

For which player(s)?

Raff,

That circuit is shown in sections 8, 9, 10, 11 on the right hand side of the schematic.

Since all 4 players fail, I’d look at the one switch on the thousands (L) relay, the point score adjustment plugs in the backbox, and the normally closed 15th position switch on the credit unit. You could use a jumper wire to jump over large portions of the circuit to rule things out. All of this is in the backbox, so I don’t think any Jones plugs are involved other than the score adjustment.

Do credits increase if you close the coin switches on the door? That would test the 15th position switch.

Dave

dgAmpGuy is on the right track but look at the Player Unit disk & wiper in addition to his suggestion about the switch on the L relay.

Inspect and diagnose this circuit with Alligator clip jumper wires
http://www.planetimming.com/Pinball/troubleshooting/EM%20Troubleshooting.pdf
http://www.pinrepair.com/em/index3.htm#features

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Good point HowardR . It could be the shoes and tiny wire on the player unit since it’s affecting multiple players. At least the 15 point max switch is eliminated because the coin switches do increment the credits.

Good luck, you’re close.
Dave

Good job. The match function is more complex. The AX relay disc chooses the match number and lights the number on the backglass. Then the wiring between the circuit boards on the 10s reels is sequenced by the player unit at the end of game to determine if there’s a match. There are also switches on the XB and O relays.

Jumper wires work best here. You could jumper from the player 1 tens reel common to the AX common to make it look like player 1 always gets a match. If that works, you know it’s in the reel or the ax contacts or the wires between. If not, then it’s the score motor switch.

I’ve also used tricks like forcing the match light to alway be illuminated so that I can make the score match before draining the last ball to test matching a specific number.

Dave

Inspect and diagnose this circuit with Alligator clip jumper wires
http://www.planetimming.com/Pinball/troubleshooting/EM%20Troubleshooting.pdf
http://www.pinrepair.com/em/index3.htm#features

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The idea is that you’re jumpering around one or ore switches to take them out of the picture. They all need to work to make the game function correctly, but you’re doing an experiment to see what would happen IF the switches in between the jumper closed when they’re supposed to.

So, if you connected the slate & white wire on the match unit (AX) to the green & white wire on the 1st player 10s reel, and you ended the game and didn’t get a credit, then that means there’s something else wrong. If it had worked, then the problem would be between the 10s reel circuit board and the match units circuit board (either the wires or the wipers or the traces on the boards).

So now you need to look at the other stuff in the path. There’s a switch at score motor 1B, a switch on the last ball relay (XB), and a switch on the outhole relay (O).

You could jumper around one or more of those. Since the match function seems to be broken for multiple players, I’d bet on. Those last two. You could leave the jumper in place around the AX and 10s unit and add a jumper around the switch on the XB relay. Then when the ball drains and the score motor runs, you should get a credit.

Once you actually get a match, you then look at what you jumpered out, and that path tells you what needs to be fixed/adjusted/cleaned.

Dave

So that tells you that the connection from the common to the match number on the AX unit is not working or the connection from the common to the 10 wires on the 10s reel isn’t working. (Or both).

The way I test that stuff is to put an alligator clip on the common wire on the AX unit and a clip on one wire of my ohmmeter. Then I test each of the 10 spots using the other meter probe as I manually click the stepper. You mingle have a broken wire or the little wiper might be bent and not making a good connection. You can do the same on the 10s unit as well as check the connections between the 10 wires (0-9) on the reel and the ax match unit.

Also, the match unit can be removed by unplugging the Jones plugs, so you can test it on a bench.

You’ve narrowed this down pretty far now.

Dave