Also, take a close look at the stepper in the center of the backbox. It looks like is is not mounted properly, may be shorting against a wire or metal bracket on the score reels. It looks crooked and wrong to me.

Look at this one. I know its more crowded but see how straight the stepper in there is mounted? This is nik's Hot Shot

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This is Fun, I've missed this. I'll be offline for a while. Will try to check back later tonight.

You may be right,when I first got machine.wires were spliced together with broken connectors.i spent an afternoon.replacing broken jones plugs on harness and soldering wires together according to how they were already connected one at a time so I would not make mistake and cross wires.but your right ,that does not mean there correct.heres pic.also,I will double check these wires.if you need a closer pic,just ask.

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Hey,i thought i might mention.when I was reconnecting new jones plugs.i noticed three wire that were identical. see pic.does the wire short( circuit) run to any of these white wires.

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Could there be something shorted under that grey duct tape? I'm assuming that tape is there to cover up some sort of repair right? Note that I incorrectly thought this was a Hot Shot instead of a big shot. I'm assuming the fuses would be the same, but I'm not sure..

Thanks for input bonzo.i looked but don't think so since I soldered then wrapped with black electrical tape then duct ,just to keep together.machine was spliced there and jones plug were broke in three pieces each.replaced those and resoldiered wires,but thinking person who reattached broken plugs (see pic above) did not connect one of the three whites correctly.going to check schem in morning to see if fuse wire runs into any of those whites.may have to open up harness. (seperate wires) to see.also look for old soldier ghost.

Start by straightening out that stepper unit up between the score reels. Make sure it’s mounted properly. Try to start the game again after that. If that doesn’t work, we can dig deeper into the connectors and harnesses.

Thanks,will do.i wish schems showed jones plug connectors and separated sections.i have went thru backbox,cleaning adjusting ect.everything there seems fine.see pic.also rechecked lugs to make sure none were touching

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Also,have plenty of wire if any need replaced.

Ok,heres what i discovered. When I put in fuse and disconnected the (door coin mechs,start button harness),fuse did not blow.upon plugging in, fuse blows.will check start button for short.also will it be possible if coin mechs are causing short to illuminate those wires.want free play anyways.waiting for your instructions.

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I like it. Try to run the game with the coin door unplugged. You really should fix the duct tape repair on the head harness though. Verify that the game runs with the coin door unplugged. That will isolate the short to that area. Once you are ready, like you did before, go after that wire harness but use heat shrink tubing instead of electrical tape to insulate the open wires at the solder joints. Buy a big box of tubing st harbor freight for a couple bucks. Electrical tape will turn to goo after a while and possibly move. Plus, the heat shrink repair will look much cleaner.

Do not know how to start game.start button runs thru same harness.also will need help with harness.what wires ,if any, I can illiminate.i hate the thought of doing bad hack job.maybe will ask other pinsiders if they have had same situation,and what they did.will report back .

Do not know how to start game.start button runs thru same harness.also will need help with harness.what wires ,if any, I can illiminate.i hate the thought of doing bad hack job.maybe will ask other pinsiders if they have had same situation,and what they did.will report back .

Hey guys,what I need to know is what wires I can eliminate in the door harness.start button also there.do not want to do bad hack job.any suggestions pinsiders.

Don't hack it at all. We will just find the problem and fix it. Then we will set the game for free play. I'm just curious if the whole game will come on without the coin door plugged in. We can start a game manually. I can help with that. Assemble the machine. Plug everything in except for the coin door. Power it on and let's see if anything blows. Then we will manually trip the relay that the start button activates.

Cool.just give me a couple hours,just woke up,getting my morning cigs,and coca cola.ha ha.

Hey guys,here's where were at.plugged everything in .except coin door,start button harness.there is now back box lights ( none before).and I can get playfield lights if I manually activate H relay.start relay does nothing when manual activated.im so glad to be making good progress.i feel start button in door needs to plug in to complete starting circuit.what do you think.but at least we know short is in door harness.

Try to manually engage the "Y" relay. It is called Replay Button Relay.

Don't forget about that stepper in the backbox. It may not be causing problems now but I fear it will if you don't get it mounted correctly. See the picture of a Big Shot attached for reference.

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Ok.i understand pm now.i manually activated y relay.still nothing.im going to go thru start button in door,see if it's shorting there.but I feel one of the coin mechs or that coil that trips them is shorted.those micro switches in coin mechs are famous for crapping out.again thanks.

Here is pic.

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with the coin door unplugged, use your multi meter to test resistance of the coin lockout coil in the coin door. Set your meter to check resistance "ohms" and set it to a range around 100. put the meter leads on each of the two wire terminals of the coil. Not sure what that coil should read. Probably 10-30 ohms. If you get something really low like 1 or even 0, There is your short. In that case, remove the black wire from the coil and wrap it in electrical tape to keep it from shorting against anything else. Plug in the coin door connector and power up the machine.

Looked it up, That coil should read around 25 ohms.

That coil has been hot before,but measures 24.9 ohms.see pic.is there way to test switches with meter?

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The coin chute lights are in circuit with the fuse that keeps blowing. See if you can follow the wires from the lights back to the plug. Set your meter to 100 ohms and touch your meter leads to the pins on the plug for the chute light circuit

Ok. Help me identify wire colors.

Red arrow looks like black with white to me

Green arrow looks like black with red (extremely faded) to me

Blue arrow??? Can you tell me what that wire is?

I don't think I ever had any.do not see where that harness would connect.trying to send pics.

I can't see where there was ever a harness or splice.maybe this model did not have them.

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They seem to go to this ground.or is that the problem.see last pic.

I was wrong about the lights. They are above the coin door on the cabinet.

I think we may be chasing the rabbit down he wrong hole. It won't hurt to unscrew those wires that are together by the total counter though. Separate them and try again. If it still behaves he same, then put those two wires back together.

How many credits show on the credit reel in the backbox?

I’ll throw a couple of photos out here may not help. I do know when my issue with the credit wheel was happening (rotating until one of the pins hit a blade - it wouldn’t work. Not until I put the alligator clip on the small switch to get free play then it quit rotating May not have anything to do with your issues at all. Just throwing that out there.

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The first two were to possible help with the wire colors and locations. The other of the credit reel. It doesn’t have the alligator clip on it there. Earlier shot

Ok.when I separated wires, viola,no blown fuse when I plugged in jones plug by coin door.i will now clean start button and get it ready,very dirty,cold soldier joints.will report back .

Ok,I cleaned start button switch ,tilt switch ( tilt switch was permantly contacting).seperated and pushed start button,still nothing.tried manually activating y relay ,s relay.nothing still.guess there is an open in circuit now.any suggestions.

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Hey,thanks nikrox2 for pics.im sure it will help someone else also.

That coin door tilt switch needs to be adjusted so it is normally closed.

Ok.it was when I went to clean it.i thought if contacts touch it would make machine tilt.thats a new one on me.i would definitely be lost.first machine I seen where switch is normally making contact.i see why now, wires on relays were burnt.this machine seems to be a different breed.again thanks.i know now,I wouldn't of been able to get this working on my own.thank you guys .will get that back the way it was.

That really throws me for a loop.never seen an open ( switch) that set off a tilt.

I forgot to mention,tilt light did come on after cleaning that switch.also I might note that I checked all relays manually ,and the h relay would light playfield lights and control bank reset relay would activate,but those were only two that would activate.waiting for your instructions no hurry, happy thanksgiving.

There are two different types of tilt switches. The plumb bob one in the front left of the cabinet is an open switch. When it touches the metal ring, it closes the circuit and starts a sequence that ends the current ball. The other tilt switches are part of the circuit that keeps the game running. If these switches are activated, by a hard kick to the coin door or a lift of the machine and drop, the entire game n play is ended. They are called anticheat switches and are typically closed. You might find another switch like this mounted under the playfield and/or on the relay panel in the bottom of the cabinet.

Does the game have credits on it? Does the credit wheel show something higher than zero?

Does the score motor ever turn when you manuall activate any of the relays?

Try to manually turn the score motor just a little bit in the counter-clockwise direction, it should take off on its own and rotate for a moment until it reaches its next stop. ( this test must be done with power on) be careful what you touch and be careful not to damage the switches around the score motor.

Happy Thanksgiving all!! Won't have a lot of pinside play time today, but I'll check as often as I can.

Yes,I have credits.plumb bob is open, under playfield tilt open,bottom board tilt open .one behind start button closed.score motor,not turning.i keep trying that( turn motor) as I progress,but still nothing happens.i also have the family dinner or ( fued) .ha ha.to attend so will pick up this evening or tommorrow. Again thanks guys.

I’m going to look closer into the score motor circuit. It should turn once you rotate past its stop. Could need some switch cleaning/adjusting around the score motor or maybe a blown fuse. Will need to look at the schematic. I’ll try to make clips of the schematic and mark them up for you as I go. Not sure if I’ll have time today though.

My feuds won’t happen till tomorrow at the in-laws. Lol

Grab your schematic and find the drawing of the score motor. There are 3-4 stacks of switches that surround the motor plates. We are looking to identify and clean switch 1C. When the motor rotates to one of the three cutouts, tha motor switch 1C will open. As soon as you move the motor out of position, the switch 1C will close and power will go to the motor causing it to rotate until that switch drops into one of the three cutouts again. This opens the switch and cuts power to the motor. Clean that switch and test the motor. It should run no matter what else is going on with the game. Unless there is another blown fuse (possible) or if the motor is bad (super rare). Switch stack 1, level C. There are five possible levels of switches starting with the lowest level A

Hi
there is a good site about "Tilt" - http://www.stevechannel.com/tiltmechanism.htm --- see in the last picture the "Ball Roll Tilt". If that ball would roll "rightbound" - a Switch for Tilt would actuate. Greetings Rolf

Good stuff. Thanks!!

Looking closer at the schematic, I see three tilt switches that are normally closed. Three that are open.