According to your Schematic when your target is in the resting position both switches should be Normally Open (NO) then both Normally Closed (NC) upon actuating, going back and forth while spinning open/close.

Ken

That looks like a clever setup to get two pulses from one revolution.

Looking again at your picture versus the Schematic. Sometimes a Schematic is not as clear as one would hope.

In the picture it appears the Switch closet to the Playfield should be "NO" and the bottom switch "NC" and hopefully that works for you.

I recently had an issue with a Williams Stardust that had an error on the Schematic that told me I should have a "NO" switch instead of a "NC". What was more frustrating was that it had a "NO" switch that looked factory and the right gates just would not work correctly. I ended up building a new "NC" switch after testing the circuit both ways and determining it should have been "NC" to begin with.

Moral of the story: Don't always trust the Schematics, use your common sense too.

Ken

Actually i read the schematic as

On the left spinner target switch there is a make break switch where one is closed and one is open
which is the same as in the picture.

The right spinner has the same setup

I would vote the schematic is correct.

--Jeff

I also see the schematic as one open and one closed but it (the schematic) is not very clear how this system works. Heres my take, I think there should be a period of time where they are both open. The closed state should not overlap between the two switches or the machine will never see a change in state. I think at rest they should both be open and then as the spinner rotates it will alternate closing each switch with a moment of time between each closure where both switches will be open.

Take this as my opinion only given that I have never seen this setup. I just see it working this way in my mind.

So I guess I am saying that the schematic is not clear enough to adjust switches by.

Dane

I should clarify....by asking a question of the OP.

With the spinner at rest, does the weight sit at the bottom of its range of up/down motion, or at the top, or in the middle? My post above was assuming the the weight sits in the middle of its range of up/down motion when the spinner is at rest.

If I am wrong on the position of the weight, the only thing that changes is the state of the switches when the spinner is at rest.

Check the wire colors to correspond to the switches as shown on the schematic. It looks to me like a normally open closest to the playfield, normally closed below. Two things we need to know. Is the pic taken with the arm at rest position? Does the arm raise when actuated, or lower with one half revolution of the spinner? Once we know that, it should be obvious.

I think this

if they are both open no points are scored.
If one or the other close on rotation points get scored. TO me it loks liek the same colored wired cause the dots all merge together for these 2
Therefore you couldnt have a closed switch at rest or you would be locking your pts coil.

2 pulses per spin sounds correct and would work nicely.

Manually spin and see ...... we can get an positive answer

--Jeff

I whipped up a quick animation. It pauses when both switches are closed. The setup provides two pulses for each revolution. Sorry the model's all red I didn't have time to assign textures.

Spinner.GIF

Steve,
very cool
can you render a still for when the plunger is at rest.

--Jeff

Here it is:

1.jpg

OK i got it.

Steves animation made me think..

so if the NO or the NC switches are open no pts are scored because the switch is inline. only when the both switches are closed and the plunger is travelling open do you score pts.

this makes sense with the schematic. I would call this a make break switch as much a

make -- make make - break switch

That means the gap size between the long switches should be exactly the size of the plunger.

When the playfield is at rest the plunger weighs down the lower switch to open it

What a PITA way to engineer that

--Jeff

MrKegFlex, will you post a pic of the switch wiring for us please? The way the switch is wired will make a big difference here. At least for my understanding.

I guess you could consider it sorta similar to a 3 position toggle switch where the center position is "ON". The spinner crank is in the 9 o'clock and 3 o'clock position for it to be on. spinr.jpg

THIS! ^^^^

I'm getting dizzy.

That certainly supports Steve's animation sequence......case closed?

Nice looking table!

Well, guess I was off this time.

Looks like SteveFury gets the cookie once again!

Great looking game.

Now have fun!

Ken

Congrats! I have this game in my sights around here. Wish me luck!

If you subscribe to the pinball ninja blog, look through his archives and find his repair on this game. There is a modification that he does to the spinners to get better action out of them. It's pretty cool and looks easy!

Thanks! & You're Welcome! & Thanks......this tread renewed my drive to go after the Golden Arrow near me. If I end up with it, I'll be sure to post about it on Pinside.

As you play it, It would be nice to read your thoughts on it. I am very intrigued by the 10k shot and the 6 inch bell.

The spinner mod-drill the lower end of the plastic spinner target and insert lead weight (or other heavy metal). Gives it a bit more momentum. You can disguise the fix with a bit of white paint or caulking. Ninja has so many weapons in his arsenal! Always thought Golden Arrow was a great looking art package some of Gordon Morrison's fine work of the classic 70's Gottliebs.

fierce.warrior.jpg

That is one good looking game! Have fun with it.

Got it! Posted about it!

http://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/em-show-us-your-em-pinball-machines/page/10#post-963538

As I clean it up, I'll post before and after pics it a new thread.