(Topic ID: 338767)

gottlieb gigi start-up-FIXED

By vipertblck

1 year ago


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  • 17 posts
  • 6 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 1 year ago by EMsInKC
  • Topic is favorited by 1 Pinsider

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    #1 1 year ago

    have a gigi that someone put in a garage door opener and wired it to power through a fuse they removed (alligator clip), white wire on the bank reset coil, and yellow wire on the coil to the right of it (tag has since fallen off). this DID work when i got the game but now when i hit the button, it just spins the score motor and lights everything up but then dis-engages the "110v hold relay" and that ends that.

    questions are

    1-what is the correct rated fuse that's meant to be in this location where the rod is placed
    2-once i replace the correct fuse in this position; where do we look to get the game started and playing?

    #2 1 year ago
    IMG_6008 (resized).jpegIMG_6008 (resized).jpegIMG_6009 (resized).jpegIMG_6009 (resized).jpeg
    #3 1 year ago

    That contraption manually resets that bank. You have to push Close/Open or Stop to remove power from that coil. Your fuse will never blow in that condition. The money you save on fuses can be spent on your new wire harness.

    #4 1 year ago
    Quoted from rod90:

    That contraption manually resets that bank. You have to push Close/Open or Stop to remove power from that coil. Your fuse will never blow in that condition. The money you save on fuses can be spent on your new wire harness.

    i understand a fuse will never blow; hence why im asking the correct fuse value to install in there and NOT burn up the wiring harness.

    pushing the "close" button fires the relay bank reset coil, pushing the "open" button spins the score motor and resets the game. "stop" button does nothing.

    upon cleaning a contact on the "110v hold relay" it seems to be working properly. but again, what's the fuse value to install and remove this contraption?

    #5 1 year ago

    The Bank Setup fuse is a 1 amp slow blow.

    pasted_image (resized).pngpasted_image (resized).png
    #6 1 year ago

    thanks! i have that one. i need the fuse that comes right off line voltage coming into the machine, the fuse holder right by the transformer. one incoming line wire goes to this fuse holder, and the other incoming line wire goes to the tap on the transformer

    #7 1 year ago

    WTF is wrong with people?

    #8 1 year ago

    seems game is playing ok, just need to get the reset thing figured out. although i still need the correct fuse value for the fuse holder beside the transformer, i realized the following....

    metal rod in fuse holder is completing the circuit just as a fuse would, so even after i install the correct fuse, i still won't have a proper resetting game (as the way it sits, nothing happens when i hit the credit button on the coin door while the credit wheel is displaying 9). this tells me the credit button is inoperative. the garage door opener is just taking power and applying it to the bank reset coil, or the other coil with the missing tag, depending on which button is pushed. these are both reset tasks that should be completed when the credit button is pressed, i believe.

    where do i begin in diagnosing the inoperative credit button

    #9 1 year ago
    Quoted from vipertblck:

    i need the fuse that comes right off line voltage

    It's on the schematic fragment I posted above, near the bottom.

    #10 1 year ago
    Quoted from vipertblck:

    nothing happens when i hit the credit button on the coin door while the credit wheel is displaying 9

    If the Replay button doesn't trip the Start (S) relay on the Bank,
    Inspect and diagnose this circuit with Alligator clip jumper wires
    Be careful because this circuit runs on 120 volts
    pasted_image (resized).pngpasted_image (resized).png
    https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/gottlieb-big-shot-repair#post-6305153
    http://www.planetimming.com/Pinball/troubleshooting/EM%20Troubleshooting.pdf
    http://www.pinrepair.com/em/index3.htm#features
    Example of a pinsider actually doing this https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/red-baron-tech-question#post-5858156

    #11 1 year ago

    You need a schematic. I'll try and help you.

    The fuse right after the line voltage is a 5 Amp slo blo

    The line voltage goes through the bounce, shutoff and anti cheat switches. That brings it to a normally open switch on R, which is the hold relay. The transformer cannot get line e voltage until that switch is closed.

    The start button is before the R. Also in that circuit is a normally closed motor 1c, the zero position switch on the credit unit which must be closed, a normally closed switch on W and a normally closed switch on the stack on the trough that releases the balls. That trips S, the start relay. A make break switch on S sends power to reset the bank, and power the transformer, and power R which stays engaged until something in the bounce switch etc opens which kills power to the game.

    That's how start begins. The bank setup fuse us a 1 Amp slo blo. The red wire on the transformer is line voltage

    #12 1 year ago

    thanks guys, ill dig into this later on. does anyone have a reference or location of the S and R relays as my tags are all missing on most of them?

    #13 1 year ago

    This photo shows the R relay, but not the S, unfortunately:

    Gigi cabinet (resized).jpgGigi cabinet (resized).jpg

    Hopefully, you can use the wire colors to identify the S relay. It's one of the ones in that bank on the left side of the bottom board that aren't labeled in the photo. One wire should be WH-OR-BLK and the other should be WH. It's also the only relay on that bank that has 4 switches.

    #14 1 year ago

    The S relay is a bank latch trip relay. It’s armature switch that sticks out of the back of the relay is a common fault not allowing the bank reset coil to reset the bank relays. This is a 120v circuit, check switch with machine unplugged.

    #15 1 year ago

    can someone point out where the "W" relay is located? i searched at where paulace photo shows it, but i don't believe that's correct as that W switch on my machine has all NO contacts, and it also points out that D is the very top, but D is actually in the big bank of switches...

    #16 1 year ago

    fixed it!! one of the switches on the "on ball release" was bent and not adjusted correctly. adjusted that and it's working spot on now! thanks again for all the help

    #17 1 year ago
    Quoted from vipertblck:

    fixed it!! one of the switches on the "on ball release" was bent and not adjusted correctly. adjusted that and it's working spot on now! thanks again for all the help

    Fixed with that idiotic door opener removed?

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