Ok, Im back at it, still trying to get this girl to subtract replays when starting a new game. I have been working on the path that HowardR mentioned below in the first pic. I have tested with a test light and I have power from the Motor 2C (GR/BLK wires) and going to "S" (GR/BLK wires) tab. With power off and that switch is closed manually, I have continuity to the other side (BL/OR wires ) tab. I move my test light to the other tab (BL/OR wires) and power up the pin and press the replay button I would have thought the test light would have come on to tell me power is coming thru, but the test light stays off. Am I missing something here and barking up the wrong tree? I also show below my test light testing.

thanks
Steve

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Subtract_Replay_with_Test_Light (resized).jpg

Hi HowardR,

#1 Yes there is space when it's open
#2 Yes when closed long blade pushes short blade
#3 I would think they are, they look it
#4 I even gave the contacts a good squeeze thinking they may be loose

I have to walk away from this to regroup, I've done many adjustments/cleanings/testings on this switch.

Can any testing/diagnosing be done with the Reset Bank be in the flipped up position and power on?

Can any other Gigi owners get me a pic of the S relay at different states for comparison?

Thanks
Steve

Thanks @HowardR, I'll do this over the weekend and report back -

Thanks for you help, it's really appreciated...

Ok, I got around to jumpering the circuit... Below is the order I jumpered. The purple/red line are the jumpered spots (numbered 1 thru 9). When I got to the other side of a switch I then "closed" the switch to complete "that" portion of the circuit. All jumpered test were successful and subtracted a replay but when actually starting a game, it does not subtract. Not sure where to go next on this.

thanks
Steve

GGi_Subract_Replay_Unit_Jumpers (resized).jpg

Hi HowardR,

Maybe this is not how it needs to be done but this is how I performed the tests... with the pin powered-on. I have credits on the machine and the "zero position" switch is closed. At this point the "S" switch, Motor 2C and Motor 1A are open.

"S" switch - I attached the jumper to the GR-BLK side and manually closed this switch and the subtract unit activated.

Then

"Motor 2C" switch (open at this point) - I located the GR-BLK on the switch stack and placed the jumper on opposite tab (looks like red-blk-wh). I manually closed this switch and then manually closed the "S" switch again and the subtract unit activated.

Then

"Motor 1A" switch (open at this point) - I located the RED-BLK-WH on the switch stack and placed the jumper on the opposite tab. I manually closed this switch and manually closed the "Motor 2C" switch and manually closed the "S" switch again and the subtract unit activated.

This could be a big DUH moment... I just had a thought, do I need to have the jumper in position THEN press the reset/replay button to let the pin go thru it's natural course at start-up. Because with me manually closing the switches could/is different from when the machine does it..

Steve

Thanks HowardR and EMsInKC,

EMsInKC - Yes 4 switches and I manually close the "S" switch and slowly turn the score motor and can see all switches do close.

HowardR - Jumpering that "S" switch was the culprit. Sensitive bugger, adjusting that one just right (just a hair of a gap) to get the correct amount of pressure/wiping action on it was the trick. Is this a sign that the "S" switch should be replaced?

Thanks for all your help, She's 100% now.

Merry Christmas, Happy Holidays and a Joyous New Year!
Steve