(Topic ID: 155589)
Wharton, NJ
Quoted from acebathound:Exactly the kind of candidate I'll be looking for with some beta testing if the latest run of boards works fine Should know in about a week or so.
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/alternative-gottlieb-sys80b-piggyback-fix-plug-and-play-interest-check
I've been running the Piggydeux board for about a week now and I'm happy to report it's running PERFECTLY! No random lock ups. No resets if you bump the game too hard. I can leave the game in attract mode for hours and it's still running when I come back. I'm very happy with this product and highly recommend it.
Quoted from bpa:I'm looking to replace the knocker assembly coil but a little confused. The cool I purchased does not have the correct sleeve. Is there a way I can pull the sleeve off the old cool?
image_(resized).jpgimage_(resized).jpg
Nope, looking inside the coil sleeve you can see its completely melted.
Thats what I was wondering. Thanks. Now I just need to buy a new sleeve, right? Manual is saying sleeve number 5142 which would be this
http://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/03-7067-1
Quoted from dothedoo:Manual won't lie to you.
Maybe not in this case but...
Oh yes it will, oh yes it will.. (BSD)
Quoted from shimoda:Maybe not in this case but...
Oh yes it will, oh yes it will.. (BSD)
I'll have to remember that if/when I get a BSD. Great game.
Ok time for a quick recap.
When I originally brought the machine home, I fired it up. GI lighting turned on, heard the single tone and robot motor spun around. Displays did not turn on. Sound would come on during attract more.
Since then I have done the following things:
Replaced all fuses
Replaced 500 ohm pot on power supply
Did the in cabinet ground mods
Cleaned edge connectors on most boards
Replaced knocker and trough kick solenoid
Sent mpu and driver board to Chris for repair.
Driver board...
the transistors that drive the knocker and the outhole kicker were toast. Be sure to check those coils before powering on the game.
MPU Board...
I abated all of the alkaline corrosion and cleaned the rest of the board up.
I also removed, resoldered, and installed the daughter card, added slam tilt mod, ground mod, and a SuperCap to retain memory.
So I fired up the machine this morning and it's in the same state except I don't get the audible tone or attract mode or sound at all. light is not blinking on sound board. It stays on or when I tried to fire it up another time it looked off.
I know I need to start rep inning the connectors as everyone says they're flakey. I also still need to finish the ground mods for each board. I just realized I never checked for 5v coming out of the power supply after I re flowed the pins so I will do that tonight. Besides what I listed above is there anything else I should check?
Also I am concerned about the displays not powering up. I checked the front side of the display board and there are two components that look fried. (See photo) I have replacement parts for these. And I plan to check the back side in case a trace is busted. But I figure that is last on my list.
As always, any advice is appreciated.
Quoted from bpa:I just realized I never checked for 5v coming out of the power supply after I re flowed the pins so I will do that tonight. Besides what I listed above is there anything else I should check?
This is probably all there is to it. No LEDs = no +5v, so you know what is up already it seems.
The 'burnt' parts on the display are likely fine, mine look the same despite the fact that my displays look brand new when on.
Quoted from shimoda:The 'burnt' parts on the display are likely fine, mine look the same despite the fact that my displays look brand new when on.
Ok. What would be the cause of the displays not powering up besides being completely shot?
I was referring to the electrolytic cap on the top right, but I'm with 'do' here, R1 looks shot and if it's open will definitely mean no displays.
Sana'a
Quoted from dothedoo:Caps are probably fine.
No point in keeping the originals on there if parts are being replaced. $3 will probably recap that display. Better to get it over with.
I always replace any old electrolytic capacitors in the games that come through my shop. It makes any later troubleshooting easier when you know that the caps are all good.
Steve
Quoted from thedefog:No point in keeping the originals on there if parts are being replaced. $3 will probably recap that display. Better to get it over with.
Tested the power supply this morning. Getting 4.99 from each pin. First time using a multimeter so want to make sure I'm doing it right. I pulled the j2 connector off the power supply and then powered the machine on. Turned dial to V setting with straight/dashed line (DC). Connected black probe to com port. Connected red probe to right side port (hz/v/ohms). Pushed black probe into exposed ground braid on back box. Pushed red probe into j2 pins (individually)
I noticed that the alphanumeric display was blinking a number 1 every 10 seconds or so. Not sure if it was doing this before as it's easy to miss.
So since I am getting 5v my next step is from wiki:
Once within an acceptable range, turn power off and reconnect J2. Measure power across C1, the 100uf/10V capacitor that is next to J1 (power connector) on the MPU. The MPU may drag the +5VDC supply down a bit. If you find this to be the case, adjust the trim pot on the power supply until a steady +5VDC is seen at the MPU. Poor connections between the +5VDC power supply and the MPU board may also reduce the voltage measured at the MPU.
Understood. Think the ROMs are okay. I have yet to re-pin any connectors so it could be a flaky connection as well. I'll just keep plugging along.
Thorold, ON
Fun ain't it? I've been plodding along trying to fix my Raven for 4 months now. I suppose if I knew what I was doing I'd have had it fixed long ago.
I am enjoying it in bits. Moreso now that I don't have too much more money I need to sink into it. Mostly just time and effort (I think). The hardest part is figuring out the order in which I should be doing things. I really need to bite the bullet and just repin all the connectors to rule them out along with the rest of the ground mods for each board. One step at a time 
What is the issue you are having with your Raven?
I've got no sound, the GI goes out when it's counting bonus for example, & after repinning A1J6 the pop-up snipers (rollovers?) aren't registering.
I need to continue repinning too, but I ran out of crimps. I've got to get some more.
I was going to start repining my connectors. I have the tool to remove the pins but I don't think I have the proper crimper. Can anyone suggest a crimper to get for .156" 22-26 AWG crimp contacts?
1 week later
I repinned a bunch of connectors and I now have a game that boots with displays working...woohoo! However, there are quite a few things not working:
Both flippers
Both kicking targets
Vari-target
Top right pop bumper
So I am not out of the woods quite yet. Going to have to visit the wiki again to see how to troubleshoot all of this.
I changed them all originally. But I am going to double check. I'm also going to pull each fuse and check the fuse holders for corrosion. This machine was pulled from a cellar of an old house so there were and still are parts that have some corrosion.
So today I checked the fuses. Everything looked good. I went back to the wiki to see how I could get the flippers working and decided to check out the game over and tilt relays. I am guessing these were the ones located underneath and and to the back of the machine. I adjusted the switches thinking they need to be gapped, fired the machine up and still no flippers but also no pop bumpers and slings. Ugh. Feels like every time I go one step forward, I take two steps back. What did I do wrong? Still do not know why the vari target and kick back targets are not working.
I fixed the game over relay switch and I am back to where I was before.
So all fuses are ok. Flipper switches look ok except one has a broken EOS switch. I filed down the flipper cabinet contacts. I am getting continuity when the button is pressed but no flipper action.
What can I do to figure out the problem? I'd like to start with the flippers and then work on the other pieces.
Both of my flippers didn't work and the problem was the flipper button leaf switches. The contacts had too much corrosion.
The Smart way to test: With the game off, set you DMM to continuity, put a lead on each lug of your switch, then push that button. Your DMD should go from Open to Short (or beep, if it has that function)
The Dumb way to test (or something I might try): With the machine on, and a game started and the playfield up, touch something metal to both lugs of a flipper button switch. If it fires the coil, you know you need to either clean the contacts, or replace the switch.
Thanks guys. crlush, I will check that tonight. This morning I decided to try bypassing the cabinet buttons and just touching the leads. Because it was early morning, I turned down the volume. Should have done this before. Heard a hum. Attached leads back to each cab button and tried button. Same thing. So those switches work. When I hold down the button, I can get the flipper to move by give it a small push. The action of the flipper is very "gummy". When I release the flipper button, it will come back but slowly. Does this mean I need to rebuild the flippers?
1 week later
Ok so I got both flippers rebuilt and they are working great! Here is what I have left to fix:
Top right pop bumper
Both kicking targets
Vari-target
I do much better when I just focus on one problem at a time so next up is fixing the pop bumper. What would be my first steps in diagnosing a problem? I am guessing I should be making sure the correct voltage is going to the coil.
Switch the leads from a working pop with the dead one & see if it follows the board. I had to replace one of mine, although I read they're easy to fix.
One question...could I swap pop bumper board connectors with a working one to see if it is indeed a problem with the board before I snip wires at the coil?
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