(Topic ID: 190157)

Gottlieb Flying Carpet Pop Bumpers Sticking

By Azfalconfixer

6 years ago



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#1 6 years ago

Getting my Flying Carpet project running. Seems to work 100% except occasionally the left pop bumper sticks down. I've cleaned all the contacts, checked wiring. Found that if I open the lower switch on the RIGHT pop bumper while the Left one that is stuck it releases. I've put a piece of electrical tape in the right switch and they both work perfect. Looking at the schematic both the lower switches should be normally closed and they are opened when pop bumpers activate which they do. The right pop bumper seems to open it's switch fine.

Any ideas?
See attached picture.

IMG_2526_LI (resized).jpgIMG_2526_LI (resized).jpg

#2 6 years ago

check the gapping on the open contacts. sounds like one of them is not adjusted correctly.

#3 6 years ago

Hi Azfalconfixer
great - You have the schematics. Want to show the snippet with "bumper-action" ?
I show my Gottlieb Orbit --- the switches below the "skirt (?) of left and the right bumper" activate the B-Relay --- and the B-Relay actuates BOTH Bumper-Coils - BOTH bumpers fire --- BOTH bumpers must open their End-Of-Stroke-Switch so the B-Relay quits pulling --- and in YOUR pin ? Greetings Rolf

0Orbit-Work-08 (resized).jpg0Orbit-Work-08 (resized).jpg

#4 6 years ago
Quoted from rolf_martin_062:

Hi Azfalconfixer
great - You have the schematics. Want to show the snippet with "bumper-action" ?
I show my Gottlieb Orbit --- the switches below the "skirt (?) of left and the right bumper" activate the B-Relay --- and the B-Relay actuates BOTH Bumper-Coils - BOTH bumpers fire --- BOTH bumpers must open their End-Of-Stroke-Switch so the B-Relay quits pulling --- and in YOUR pin ? Greetings Rolf

Mine is exactly the same. For some reason if I put some electrical tape in the right end of stroke switch (so it doesn't make contact) it works fine. Do these switches need to be timed?

#5 6 years ago

Hi Azfalconfixer
when You put some insulation into the E.O.S.-Switch to keep it permanently open: Your pin is fully running ? If "Yes" - want to do some documentation (explanation of the mystery and the work-around solution) - and keep the documentation in the pin (?) (((mystery stays mystery)))

I feel a bit uneasy - asking questions You most likely already have checked ...
When the ball rolls to "left" bumper - BOTH bumpers fire ?
When the ball rolls to "right" bumper - BOTH bumpers fire ?
The strength (power) of firing is the same (both bumpers fire heavy) ?
Have the pin toggled off and the main power cord unplugged (Safety Reasons) --- manually actuate the "good" bumper and watch the opening of the E.O.S.-Switch. Then manually actuate the "bad" bumper and watch the opening of the E.O.S.-Switch - Same ? Clear, good opening ?

Timing (?) --- the two E.O.S.-Switches should open exactly at the same moment in time --- the one "opening later" carries the load (current flowing to keep the B-Relay pulling) - its contact points may wear due to sparks on the opening switch.

(((I would prefer: ONE Bumper - ONE Relay activating this bumper --- ANOTHER - ANOTHER --- THIRD - THIRD etc. Maybe the manufacturer wanted to save money by using less relays (?) )))
Greetings Rolf

#6 6 years ago

When the ball rolls to "left" bumper - BOTH bumpers fire ? Yes
When the ball rolls to "right" bumper - BOTH bumpers fire ? Yes
The strength (power) of firing is the same (both bumpers fire heavy) ? No, the right side is very weak. Took it apart and cleaned everything but still weak. Considering both coils are fired from the same relay sounds like I have a bad coil? Can coils get weak?

#7 6 years ago

Figured it out!!

Yes both coils are fired by one relay but there are separate switches on that relay for each coil. The switch for the right coil had a bigger gap. I cleaned it and made the gap the same as the other one and now it works great!

Thanks Rolf and illawarra92 !!

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