Welcome, WolfWeb - Fast Draw is a great game.

It looks like you've figured out where to attach that brown wire if the relay bank is resetting now. Looks like someone replaced the original orange wire on the other side of that coil with that lamp cord...but it must be working.

When you're set to 5 balls, the Extra Bonus light is controlled only by the LB relay, which I believe is in that same stack of inter-lock relays that you have taken the picture of. If you have the machine set to 3 balls, it should also come on when you've rolled over all 3 rollovers via a switch on the 4B relay in that same stack. Maybe when the wingnuts loosened and the whole stack swung down, a switch on the LB relay got bent a bit. Loosen the wingnuts again and look carefully at all the switches on that LB relay, but particularly one with a white-orange wire, and a black-white wire. The snippet below is what the light circuit looks like.

The back side of that relay bank is a mess of switch tabs and wires - look at the back side of that same switch and make sure no tabs or wires are touching and all the wires are attached.

It's also possible that the bulb is burned out, the light bulb socket is janky (that's pretty common), or a wire has popped off going to the light socket. Look carefully at the wiring to make sure it's all still attached.

In 5-ball setting, the Extra Bonus light should come on during your final ball. If you have the game set to 5 ball, you should get 2X your bonus, unless you roll over all 3 rollovers - A, B and C - then you should get 3X your bonus.

Good luck!

FD extra bonus light (resized).JPG

That's the way it should work. If set to 3 ball play it should also come on when the A-B-C sequence is completed
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Yes
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Yeah, glad you got that light problem fixed. Do you have a switch leaf bending tool - they're very useful for just that job, which you'll run into occasionally as you play your machine.

That switch is just a tilt switch on the underside of the playfield. If you're too rough with the game, that switch would close and tilt the game. You don't need it for home use.

That switch bender is a very useful basic tool - if you have an EM, you should have one, so glad you got one from PBR. Some people prefer needle-nose pliers...to each his own. Just remember to bend switches (usually the short leaf) from where it exits the stack, not along its length.

I would LOVE to have an endoscope inspection camera for seeing what's going on in certain tough-to-reach areas - that should come in handy too, though I don't think PBR sells those.

When you say target mech, do you mean the big stepper that's attached to the underside of the playfield on the right side towards the back? If so, that's the bonus unit, and be careful if you get into those steppers. Take photos before you start in case something falls apart in the middle of cleaning. Lots of times, you can just take the rotating brown disc with the rivets off, clean the rivets and "snowshoe" contacts, and flush some mineral spirits into some of the gunked-up (that's a technical term) metal-on-metal parts to remove some of the grime. Just make sure all the parts that are supposed to move, any parts with springs attached, are moving freely. Once the gunk is removed, you can lube the metal-on-metal parts with just the tiniest bit of oil, if you'd like - don't over-do it. You usually don't have to take the thing completely apart, thankfully.

Just work carefully - you don't want to cause yourself more problems. It's a great game - good luck!

Well if your bonus unit is working correctly, best not to mess with it.

Drop targets you can futz with a bit to reduce friction enough to allow them to slide down more easily. There's a metal arm through each target that slides along a leaf and opens/closes switches on the way. Make sure the side of that leaf contacting the metal arm is clean (a Q-tip and alcohol or mineral spirits works well there), and then you can use your brand new switch bender to bend that stiff metal leaf so that it does make contact with the tip of the sliding metal arm, but the leaf isn't pushing against it so hard that it stops the arm from sliding all the way down. Just make sure that switches that open and close as that arm moves down still open and close when you're done.

Hope that makes sense.

When you've dropped all 10 drop targets, and the 2 black horseshoe one pop back up, you are supposed to get 5,000 pts each time you knock one down. The circuit is kind of fun to follow along.

The circuit snippet below is of the actual drop target switches and what they control:

FD drop circuit (resized).JPG

There are 4 relays involved in the process:

L = 1000 pt relay
5B = drop targets completed relay
I = 50 pt relay
J = 500 pt and add bonus unit relay

Before you've knocked down all 10 drops, the 5B relay is not energized, and all switches are as drawn on the schematic. The red part of the circuit above doesn't come into play because the 5B switches are open - no current can flow that way. The drop target switches do complete a circuit along the green lines which energizes the J relay, which gives you 500 pts. and adds a bonus.

BUT - once you've knocked down all 10 drops, the 5B relay energizes and all the 5B switches on the schematic change state - in this case, from open to closed. Now you have a path available through the red lines which energizes the I relay. Current is flowing through both the red and green parts of the circuit now every time you hit a drop target (only the 2 black ones are up at this point), and both the I and J relays are activated.

The I and J relays have switches on them that start the score motor turning 1/3 of a revolution.

The part of the circuit below is where the actual scoring takes place:

FD drop circuit L relay (resized).JPG

The L relay is responsible for scoring 1000 pts. Now that the I and J relays are energized, the 2 make/break switches are in the opposite state than what is drawn. So current can flow through the red lines to the L relay. The Motor 1A switch closes 5 times during the score motor's 1/3 revolution, so the L relay gets 5 pulses - which gives you 5000 pts.

If this feature isn't scoring correctly, you should probably first look closely at the 5B relay, then at those make/break switches on the I and J relays. Make sure the contacts are clean and the switches are changing state when the armature moves.

Hope that makes sense.

Your other bonus scoring problem can be tricky. This machine is very sensitive to switch timing issues. I suspect a switch somewhere in the bonus scoring circuit is gapped a tiny bit too wide or narrow. A lot of machines wouldn't care too much about that - this one seems to.

Anyway, first things first - see if you can get that drop target problem fixed.

Yes, the L relay is in the head, that's the 1000 pt relay.

There is a bank of 6 interlock (latching) relays on the underside of the pf near the bottom. 5B is the 5th from the left - you can see it in this photo.

interlock bank (resized).jpg

This relay bank is held in place by 2 wingnuts on either side. Loosen those and the relays will drop into a position where the switches are a little more accessible for cleaning. After you clean the contacts, latch and unlatch the relays from that position and watch to see that the switch contacts open/close as they should. When you're done, make sure you put the bank back in place and tighten those wingnuts again.

I is on the bottom board - between the T and R relays.

I relay (resized).jpg

For your 300 pt rather than 500 pt problem, you want to look closely at the I and J relays, and also at Motor 1A switch that has a GR+RED wire on one side and RED-WH wire on the other. That should be feeding the M relay (100 pt relay) to give you 500 pts.

500 pt circuit (resized).JPG

In case you're not familiar with how Gottlieb names their motor switches, number 1-4 refer to positions around the motor platters as viewed from above, letters A-E refer to levels of switches as viewed from the side, A on the bottom:
score motor switches (resized).jpg

There are 4 stand-up bullseye targets up near the top of the pf. At all times, 2 should be lit and 2 should be unlit - the lits and unlits should alternate every time the center pop bumper is hit. The 2 that are lit should give you 500 pts and increase your bonus. The 2 that are unlit should give you 50 pts and energize the I relay. Is that happening? You won't score the 5000 pts for the reset black drops unless the I and J relays are both firing as per the second schematic shot in post #12.

Also, in one of the videos, I see the hundreds score reel not responding as it should to what I'm hearing from the 100's chime. It sounds like the chime is (sometimes) ringing 5 times and the score reel is only increasing 3 or 4 times. Also, the cadence of the chime is off. It should ring evenly, not that Daaa-da-daa-daa-daaa that I'm hearing. It sounds like the 2nd scoring pulse is delayed and comes butted up against the 3rd pulse. That sound is wrong, but consistent at least. Does the same thing happen on the other players?

For your scoring problem, there is a Motor switch (Motor 1A) that feeds all the scoring except the bonus scoring. I suspected that at first, but the fact that your 50 pt scores are correct indicated that that switch is working as it should - that is, pulsing 5 times per score motor cycle. The fact that your 50 pt scores are correct also makes me think the I relay (50 pt relay) is working as it should as well.

It sounds like possibly your J relay is dropping out too early for some reason. There is a Motor 2B switch that cuts off the I and J relays once they've locked on. (Circuit in red in the snippet below) The two red switches labeled I and J are on those respective relays, and their job is to lock the relay on long enough for the 5 pulses from Motor 1A to score either 50, 500 or 5000 pts. At the end of the score motor cycle, the Motor 2B switch should open, letting the I and J relax relax again. I thought maybe that 2B switch was opening early, but your I relay is holding in long enough to supply the 50 pt scores, so I'm not sure what that leaves.

Can you watch the J relay while you press a lit stand-up bullseye target with your finger? It should stay pulled in until the score motor has completed its 1/3 revolution cycle. It should NOT relax before the score motor has almost finished its cycle. Does it do that?

I J 2B (resized).JPG

As far as your drop target reset sticking, you'll just have to look carefully at it and find where it's binding. Hard for me to troubleshoot that from here.