I'm not sure the game is out of reset (flippers dead). Can you describe how the 10 points are being scored? Are you getting 15 X 10 = 150 points per full motor (360 deg) turn? Is the N relay pulling in? Are Player 1 and 2 incrementing or just Player 1?

So, if you start with non-zero P1 and P2 scores and start the reset process... do you see P1 reset, then P2 reset, then P1 start incrementing? Or, when P2 is resetting is P1 incrementing also?

Sorry, don't have the schematic, assuming the reset process is like other late 70's machines, like Fire Queen.

Two things to investgate:

1) Can you block the motor switches with paper to determine which switch is powering the motor, or visually see which relay with a motor switch is pulled in? S and AX should power the motor through reset, are they releasing?

2) Flippers are dead, yet chimes work? Is there a rectifier separating the two? Are there any other things receiving power from the rectifier? The pops? Do they work?

I assume the N (10 point relay) is actively toggling, since you hear chimes...

OK, here's a wild ass guess before I give up for the night...

Your rectifier is out (fuse, maybe?)
-explains flippers being dead
-I think, based on IPDB pics of the underside of the playfield, your machine's ball return coil is also powered by the rectifier (it looks like Countdown's ball return coil)

So, you went through reset correctly and the ball is sitting in the outhole trying to get a kick to the shooter lane, but the ball return coil is dead. The O relay is spinning the motor. I think you do have some kind of a short in the 10 point system. 10 points are pulsing at the motor rate because there is a motor 1C switch that interrupts the path to the 10 point switches.

If you remove the ball from the outhole, does the motor stop? Does N lock on? If so, power down immediately, N will start to heat up.

Oh look, a hen's tooth!

Wow, some plastic, some cloth wiring... Space Walk really is a hybrid between the EM and SS era...

IPDB has a pic of the open backbox here, and you can make out some of the relay lettering. "M" is the third relay up on the right?

https://www.ipdb.org/showpic.pl?id=2263&picno=38761&zoom=1

Have you double checked that all the jones plugs are oriented and seated correctly, especially the small one (8 pins or so) that comes from the playfield to the backbox?

If you push in the N relay armature, what happens? Is it possible that the 10's and 100's reels are swapped in the cage? Which reels have circuit cards mounted on the sides?

The contacts don't look right. Is the plastic *(Actuator)broken?

Blue arrow- Contact leaf looks to be in the wrong slot
Red Arrow- Is that contact closed.

relay orientation mark up (resized).jpg

M should have 5 normally open switches. Red arrow looks open from here, but put a slip of paper in it (or adjust it more open). Blue arrow looks like it has slipped a slot or two, a pic from the other side would help.

What's the history of this machine, was it previously working?

OK, good to know, thanks!

Well, unless anyone else has any theories as to how the M (100’s) relay pulsing can result in repeated 10’s being scored, I’d suggest moving on to understanding who is turning the motor, maybe it will be a clue.

From the schematic, the motor switches are: D,E,H,K,O,P, S, W, Motor 1C, and AX.

I assume Motor 1C is not closed, otherwise the motor would start running when the machine is first turned on. During the reset process, S, P then AX are activated. During reset, do these pull in (S, P) and latch (AX) and then release? S and P should release quickly - 1/3 motor turn or two (after the drop target reset), AX should unlatch/reset at the end of the reset process (the Player Unit stops rotating and Player 1 lights up). Is this what happens?

If that is correct and the motor is still running, one of the following is probably closed - D,E,H,K,O or W. Can you see which is pulled in?

Quick question(s)...

KS was the relay with the circuit card that got broken by the lock bar receiver? Is it in a relay rack just above the flippers on the underside of the playfield? If so, what are the two other relays in that rack?

Also, the three switches that score 100 points and could potentially be shorted and causing the M pulsing:

Left and right lower return rollover switches
Pop bumper (if set to 5 balls/game)

Also thinking we should also check out the switches that trip D (500 pts), D would also pulse M AND start the motor....

The M relay (100 points) is the relay that is activating though... correct?

Let me re-summarize what we know so far (with 4 embedded questions):

Machine powers up ok
Appears to complete reset
Immediately after reset, on Player 1:
- 10 points continually added to 10 point score reel (with *10* point chime? 10 point relay NOT activating or twitching?)
- motor spinning
- 100 point relay pulsing (at same rate as 10's reel incrementing? No points added to 100 point score reel?)
- Flippers dead
- Ball does not kick out

Is this accurate?

the D relay is stuck powered?

if yes, you can stick paper in contacts in the circuit like 1B and 2B to narrow down which branch is completing the circuit.

if D is not stuck on, then what damoib said in post #23 is probably the most direct route to go. If the motor and scoring is annoying while you are looking around to see what relay/switch is powering the motor, pull out the motor service plug to turn off the motor.

We had a debug session over the phone this afternoon, did the paper in the NC switches, inspected all the NO switches, jones plug. Still stuck on... well, not really stuck - D hold is released by 2B and all triggering switches are conditioned by Motor 1C, so it is pulsing (still warm though).

Disconnected the playfield and D operated normally (racked up the 500) when activated by hand, looks like some issue on the playfield.

I was debating whether to advise to start disconnecting the daisy chain on the playfield and jumpering various isolated portions of the circuit over onto the motor board.

Anyone have an easier way to isolate the issue on the playfield?

Here's a marked up schematic

D schematic markup (resized).jpg

Just went ahead and opened the daisy chain and isolated the issue to the side rollover... fixed, NVM. On to the next issue...

schem says the ball return coil has black and BR-RED wires on it.

one check is to touch a jumper from BR-RED to the 10A fuse in the 25V circuit. That'll be the max power the coil will ever see.

if the ball kicks easily then, you've got a cruddy switch in the circuit limiting current or a switch on the score motor is not staying closed long enough (switch gap too big, switch dog in wrong slot, broken or misshaped switch actuator, etc.)

if jump test doesn't work any better, either the assembly has a mechanical issue or the coil is bad. Typical mechanical issues would be a badly burred coil plunger dragging on the coil sleeve, missing/damaged coil sleeve, or heat-distorted coil/sleeve.

How about a few pics please