(Topic ID: 285175)

Gottlieb Drop A Card-Roll over issue

By CardTrix70

1 year ago


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  • 18 posts
  • 4 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 1 year ago by CardTrix70
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Drop A Card A relay switch (resized).jpg
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Drop A Card Alternating Relay (resized).jpg
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#1 1 year ago

The rule set for this machine operates so the roll over targets in the middle of the playfield alternate being lit after the ball rolls over one. It also should change the stand up target on the left and right sides to being lit. However my DAC is not alternating the rollover lights or the standup lights. I am a novice at understanding and reading the games schematic. Can someone give me a direction on this issue? Thanks in advance.

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#2 1 year ago

Do you have a schematic? If not, someone here does. I love Card Trix and Drop-a-card. I learned pinball on those games in '74-'75. Actually I played Pop-a-card, the add a ball version - same basic game.
Pinside should have you fixed up in 2-24 hours!

#3 1 year ago

It is likely that you have an Alternating relay, usually 'A,' that handles that. If so, it should have a make/break switch and that likely needs attention.

This is a good site to bookmark, and there are two sections on schematics: http://www.pinrepair.com/em/index1

#4 1 year ago

currieddog is right. It's likely your A/Alternating relay isn't firing:
Drop A Card Alternating Relay (resized).jpg
It should change state each time the 0-9 or Match Unit takes a step, which should be each time 1 point is scored.

/Mark

#5 1 year ago
Quoted from DCP:

Do you have a schematic? If not, someone here does. I love Card Trix and Drop-a-card. I learned pinball on those games in '74-'75. Actually I played Pop-a-card, the add a ball version - same basic game.
Pinside should have you fixed up in 2-24 hours!

Got one thanks!

#6 1 year ago
Quoted from currieddog:

It is likely that you have an Alternating relay, usually 'A,' that handles that. If so, it should have a make/break switch and that likely needs attention.
This is a good site to bookmark, and there are two sections on schematics: http://www.pinrepair.com/em/index1

Thanks, will work through pinrepair site.

#7 1 year ago
Quoted from MarkG:

currieddog is right. It's likely your A/Alternating relay isn't firing:
[quoted image]
It should change state each time the 0-9 or Match Unit takes a step, which should be each time 1 point is scored.
/Mark

I will check this area out, if it's not firing what possible causes should I look at? I did check all of the switches on the bottom sides of the roll overs and they are set fine.

#8 1 year ago
Quoted from CardTrix70:

if it's not firing what possible causes should I look at?

This snippet is from Aquarius but it's likely similar. This is for the lites.

The double arrow signifies a make/break switch and you'll have to get in close, manually push the plastic piece on the relay that the blades go into and check that the contacts are clean and that it makes solid contact on both sides. Power OFF for that. Refer to this: http://www.pinrepair.com/em/index2.htm#clean

Capture (resized).png

#9 1 year ago
Quoted from MarkG:

currieddog is right. It's likely your A/Alternating relay isn't firing:
[quoted image]
It should change state each time the 0-9 or Match Unit takes a step, which should be each time 1 point is scored.
/Mark

I checked out the A/Alternating relay and you are right. I don't think it can fire because when I move manually move the blade the screw from the switch stack stops it before any of the points move. Have you ever seen that as an issue? I also noticed someone jumpered the switch stacks with that white and orange wire. Not sure what that is about but does not look factory to me.

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#10 1 year ago

What you want to do is to push down on the plastic armature at the circled area. That will simulate the coil pulling when energized. To the bottom right of the circle you see three M/B switches; one of those does the lites. Apply what Clay has to say from the link in post 8.

I can't see the solders well enough to tell if the W-O wires are factory, but I bet they are.

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#11 1 year ago

The A/Alternating relay should have 5 Make/Break switches mounted to it. You should be able to find all five on your schematic and match them up using the wire colors. It's hard to tell from your photo but it looks like the jumper may be wired to the two outside leaves of the same Make/Break switch. If that's the case it's hard to imagine that it was meant to be there since wiring the switch that way would usually defeat the purpose of the switch.

#12 1 year ago
Quoted from currieddog:

What you want to do is to push down on the plastic armature at the circled area. That will simulate the coil pulling when energized. To the bottom right of the circle you see three M/B switches; one of those does the lites. Apply what Clay has to say from the link in post 8.
I can't see the solders well enough to tell if the W-O wires are factory, but I bet they are.
[quoted image]

Yep but the bottom of the screw does not allow the armature to move enough to change the location of the points, I am going to find a shorter screw and install that in the switch stack and see if that allows the movement of the armature to allow the movement of the points.

#13 1 year ago
Quoted from CardTrix70:

Yep but the bottom of the screw does not allow the armature to move enough to change the location of the points

You might be able to hack off part of it if you can't find a shorter one.

#14 1 year ago
Quoted from currieddog:

You might be able to hack off part of it if you can't find a shorter one.

Ok, got a shorter screw and that allowed the armature to work. Watched the motion and the switch stack operates as it should with the machine off. By the way I did install a new coil. Now the coil screams and the rollovers work on the one side of alternating and the other side does not score points or lights don't change sides. I have attached a better photo of the jumper wires that someone before me looks to have installed. They don't look factory to me. Any idea for continuing my search to repair would be great, thanks.

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#15 1 year ago
Quoted from CardTrix70:

Ok, got a shorter screw and that allowed the armature to work. Watched the motion and the switch stack operates as it should with the machine off. By the way I did install a new coil. Now the coil screams and the rollovers work on the one side of alternating and the other side does not score points or lights don't change sides. I have attached a better photo of the jumper wires that someone before me looks to have installed. They don't look factory to me. Any idea for continuing my search to repair would be great, thanks.
[quoted image]

Better direction on the photo

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#16 1 year ago

I think your two jumpers are factory. Have a look at the two switches in the red box:
Drop A Card A relay switch (resized).jpg

#17 1 year ago
Quoted from MarkG:

I think your two jumpers are factory.

Agreed. The solders look like they match the others.

Have you tried manually advancing the Match/0-9 unit to see if A alternates? I'm wondering if the resistor show in post 4 is shot. You can find them on eBay.

#18 1 year ago
Quoted from currieddog:

Agreed. The solders look like they match the others.
Have you tried manually advancing the Match/0-9 unit to see if A alternates? I'm wondering if the resistor show in post 4 is shot. You can find them on eBay.

Guys, you have been a tremendous help. I did get it fixed and think it was a combination of a couple of things. I attached a photo to show you how much grease I took off of the Match/0-9 unit and a small washer. Well, the washer I left in when I changed the coil, should not have, rookie mistake. Also solved the screw problem on the relay that was blocking it from operating and adjusted points on that relay that were out of adjustment. Also seemed to take away a noise from the coil I had before. Thanks again for your patience and guidance, have a great weekend.

6527C124-4E34-4B8B-B71F-C130916DF391_1_105_c (resized).jpeg

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