(Topic ID: 149231)

Gottlieb Cleopatra test button switch

By jefwv

8 years ago


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  • 28 posts
  • 8 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 8 years ago by jefwv
  • Topic is favorited by 3 Pinsiders

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#1 8 years ago

Got a new ni-wumph system 1 board. Trying to tell it I have a Cleo. I cant get the test button to bring up the menus.
I've tested continuity and it is working. I've checked and cleaned j6. Checked bottom cab diodes all ok.
Game will boot up and let you play it although it doesn't know it's a cleo. So about half of the playfield doesn't score.
With game on I tested across the test switch terminals. 0.25v
I've checked the power supply, all voltages are good. Connections are good.
Coin up switches work, replay button starts a game. Can't see any shorts on the coin door or switches.
Anyone help me out on this? Thanks
Jeff

#3 8 years ago

According to version F of the manual, to configure the MPU for Cleopatra, set dip switch 1=on, 2=off, 3=off, 4=off.

I'm assuming there's a newer manual available, and that these settings haven't changed, but be sure to check in your manual.

#4 8 years ago

Thanks forceflow but no dip switches on the new boards

#5 8 years ago

I'm not getting 5v across the test button only like 0.5v. All of my grounds have 5v. The green ground wire on the coin door that attaches at the test button bracket has 5v. The ball roll tilt cage has 5v. I've looked everywhere and cant find it. Ive unsoldered all 5 diodes in the bottom of the cab and all are good. Checked under playfield but can't find a thing that is shorting to ground. Not blowing any fuses.

#6 8 years ago

any help appreciated

2 weeks later
#7 8 years ago

Also swapped driver board out with a new boston pinball driver board. New mpu to driver harness, power supply to mpu harness and re-pinned a1-j6. Been reading on here about other system 1 problems and troubleshooting this beast.
At my wits end with this thing. Considering parting it out to recover some of the money I have invested.
Attract mode looks great, right kick-out hole kicks once on power up. Diodes check out good.
Good voltage readings on the power supply.

#8 8 years ago
Quoted from jefwv:

Also swapped driver board out with a new boston pinball driver board. New mpu to driver harness, power supply to mpu harness and re-pinned a1-j6. Been reading on here about other system 1 problems and troubleshooting this beast.
At my wits end with this thing. Considering parting it out to recover some of the money I have invested.
Attract mode looks great, right kick-out hole kicks once on power up. Diodes check out good.
Good voltage readings on the power supply.

What problems are you having with it right now?

Are you still having trouble with the replacement MPU identifying the correct game?

Have you repinned all the connectors? They get tarnished and filthy over the years and don't make contact very well as a result.

#9 8 years ago

yes, I don't think it knows it's a Cleo but maybe it does. It will let me play a game, but only a few rollovers will score. None of the pop bumpers or slings or drop holes or targets. I haven't re-pinned everything. I cleaned them and look pretty good and look like they have good tension. Thanks

#10 8 years ago
Quoted from jefwv:

yes, I don't think it knows it's a Cleo but maybe it does. It will let me play a game, but only a few rollovers will score. None of the pop bumpers or slings or drop holes or targets. I haven't re-pinned everything. I cleaned them and look pretty good and look like they have good tension. Thanks

Cleaning attempts on the pins won't cut it. They really just need to be replaced. It's a pain, but simply one of the things that has to be done on this era of games. You really have to do that before you can do much further troubleshooting.

#11 8 years ago

You MUST repin any suspect connectors. Make sure the wires are in the correct order. See your manual.

#12 8 years ago
Quoted from Msch:

Make sure the wires are in the correct order. See your manual.

Good point. It's entirely possible that wires may have been switched or shifted around.

#13 8 years ago

When I got the machine it looked like it had never been touched as far as the connectors. But I will check them. Thanks

#14 8 years ago

Those Ni-Wumpfs are touchy. All of them need the slam tilt closure in the coin door adressed. Re-pinning is a must, shocking how tight the connections get when you re-pin.

#15 8 years ago

All the wires are in the right place.

#16 8 years ago

By mistake I found that any time I touch any yellow wire in the coin door to ground it put the machine in setup mode. And sometimes tilt.
Yellow is the Return 0. What's going on with this thing?

#17 8 years ago

Has the coin door wiring been modified at all?
Or
Did someone modify it for free play?

#18 8 years ago

It doesn't look like it has been modified. No it hasn't been modified for free play. At least not by jumpering the wires on the diode strip in the bottom cabinet. Thanks

#19 8 years ago

Reading through this thread from the beginning, I'm not quite clear on what issue you are trying to describe.

What are you trying to do and what is or isn't happening? i.e., pressing button X should do Y, but it does Z instead.

#20 8 years ago

Ok, the test button inside the coin door doesn't let me go into setup.
The game comes on in attract mode and looks good.
It will let me start a game (which one I don't know)
Only a few things will score.
On start of a new game, one of the green bonus lights is already on, like i've scored a green drop target or roll over.
Checked the switches for both, neither are closed.
The big issue is it won't go to setup when I press the test button.
voltages check out, diodes check out. Thanks

#21 8 years ago

Ok, it's possible that the test switch is not wired correctly, or that it has failed.

http://pinwiki.com/wiki/index.php?title=Gottlieb_System_1#Accessing_Bookkeeping_and_Diagnostics

Yellow wires should be on the bottom lug, and green wire on the outer most lug.

To test the switch itself, use your multimeter in diode test mode, and touch one lead to the bottom lug on the switch, and the other lead to the outer most lug. Then press the switch. If you get continuity, then the switch is good. If not, you may need to replace it.

To test if the wiring is working, momentarily jump (as in, no greater than 1 second) the two lugs together and see if you can get into diagnostics.

#22 8 years ago

Checked it many times before and just did again and checks out. It's actually 2 yellows on the bottom and the other is a blue/white. I've even jumpered them momentarily nothing.
If I touch the yellow to a green ground it will go to setup but can't really control it because it's hard to replicate a momentary switch.
Plus there is something wrong by the switch not letting me go into setup. thanks.

test1_(resized).jpgtest1_(resized).jpg

#23 8 years ago

Compare the wiring for the coin door to what appears in your manual. Does everything match up?

#24 8 years ago
Quoted from ForceFlow:

Cleaning attempts on the pins won't cut it. They really just need to be replaced. It's a pain, but simply one of the things that has to be done on this era of games. You really have to do that before you can do much further troubleshooting.

I can attest to this. It'll take a long time, but it's well worth the effort. You really have to repin everything on these System 1 games. Buy a pin extractor, a crimper, and several handfuls of pins. You can get all the stuff from Great Plains Electronics, or Mouser (but I find it's easier to find what you need from GPE).

#25 8 years ago

It appears from your photo that the wire is soldered to the Normally Closed lug. This is not correct as far as I understand it. The test switch should be normally open. If you go to the 4th post on the thread linked below, there is a wiring diagram for another system 1 game (Torch) the coin door wiring should be the same.

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/gottlieb-torch-owners-question-roto-target#post-2957433

#26 8 years ago

I repinned A1J6 and a couple others. And it is wired to COM (?) Continuity test shows NO, when pressed it closes momentarily. Thanks for helping guys.

#27 8 years ago

I'm working on a cleopatra. Never underestimate the power of the repin on these machines, no matter how good they look. I always put stickers on the housings when I repinned them, if not for me, then for the next guy. Some of the edge connector pads on my board set needed to be sanded and retinned, especially the driver board, so be sure to remove the board and check the pads.

#28 8 years ago

Have a brand new Ni-Wumph mpu, a new Boston Pinball driver board, new cable from power supply to mpu, new cable from mpu to driver board. re-pinned A1J6 (all coin door switches go here). Will be re-pinning others also. Thanks

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