(Topic ID: 269343)

Gottlieb Card Whiz Problems

By MiloMV

3 years ago


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  • Latest reply 3 years ago by sudsy7
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#1 3 years ago

Hello, I just purchased a Gottlieb Card Whiz in extremely fine condition. However there are a few problems I have encountered when putting it through its paces.

First, the single pop-bumber, the two smaller upper rubbers with a contact switch and the bottom two large sling-shots are not sounding a chime when hit. In the video of the machine being played by the owner I know that at least the bottom slings and the pop-bumper did chime. I also know that the upper two rubbers with the contact switches are supposed to chime from online videos of this game being played. So maybe something came loose in transporting it to me across the country? Are all of these maybe on the same circuit or something?

Secondly, the middle stationary "3000" target behind the card drop targets is totally dead. It is supposed to score whenever it is hit and when all the drop targets are down it is supposed to light and score 3000 points. Nada.

It came with the schematics but I am more or less a novice. Any advice about how to try to fix these two problems would be greatly appreciated. Thanks in advance for any help!

3000 Target not working (resized).jpg3000 Target not working (resized).jpgNo Chime (resized).jpgNo Chime (resized).jpg
#2 3 years ago

Easiest start...WITH POWER OFF make sure contacts are clean and switch adjusted properly. Switches can be cleaned with a Flexstone file. If you don’t have the file, a light grit sandpaper. Switch can be adjusted w/a switch ‘bender’ tool. If no tool, a smaller screwdriver can be used but if new to hobby a little more experienced would be better.

First make sure switch stack screws are tight. Tighten screw closest to blade first. Then clean and gap.

There are a couple of sites w/great information. pinrepair.com and on Pinwiki.

#3 3 years ago

I have two Gottlieb games and they both had similar problems (chime hammer stuck) if you take off the chime bells there is a metal slug that is activated by the coil .....usually the slug is stuck in the sleeve , you can take push the slug out by taking off the bottom bracket. although it may be tempting "do not use any contact cleaner anywhere on a machine" I usually use isopropyl alcohol 90% .....clean all the grime off the slug and use q-tips to clean the sleeve and let it dry completely. The 3000 point target is probably a dirty contact or contact adjustment. One thing you will need is a contact adjuster which can be had from ebay or the Pinball Resource.
welcome to EM's you will need this in the future to maintain your machine

#4 3 years ago

Thanks for this advice. the9gman, I opened the game and hit the targets and rollovers and found that the first (smallest) chime is not being activated at all. I unscrewed and took of the metal chime revealing the coil. What I will call the plunger in the middle of the coil that pops up to hit the chime is moving very freely. I can bounce it up and down with my finger within the coil. So is something else preventing the connection to get to that coil when it is supposed to?

#5 3 years ago

Also regarding the "3000" target being dead. I will attempt to clean and adjust the switch to see if I can make it score. However the fact that the light does not light when all the drop targets are down makes me feel it is a deeper problem.

#6 3 years ago

did you get a schematic with the game ? so next step would be to see if you have around 26 volts going to the chime coil if not you need to trace it back ....seeing that several at several spots where the chime does not work it has to be common to one thing. I am making an assumption that the places you pointed out usually score 10pts on most em machines .....since yours is a two player game there is most likely a relay that fires each chime and sends a signal to the score reels.....chances are that relay has a dirty contact .........the other thing could the chime signal is going thru a jones plug they can get dirty and cause problems .....when I get a new EM I usually unplug it and clean all the jones plug pins with a piece of scotch brite. the other side can be cleaned with alcohol and q-tips and connecting them a couple of times. There should be a tab on each jones plug that will only allow it to go on one way. most machines have two to three jones plugs that attach the playfield to th machine. as you are looking at the machine on your right towards the back are the two main plugs and there is probably one more that goes to the back box

#7 3 years ago

A few questions:

- Do you have it set on 5 balls or 3 balls?

- Do the pop bumper and 10 pt bumpers that you indicated in your photos score correctly? I know the chimes don't sound, but do they score the correct points?

- Do any of the chimes work?

As someone else mentioned, it's probably a good idea to carefully unplug, clean and re-seat the jones plugs after a cross-country trip, as well as inspecting them carefully visually for things like broken solder joints or anything that doesn't look kosher. Especially that 3-5 ball jones plug that the center target behind the drops has to go through to do anything. (It's in the backbox - below the score reels.)

Also, as a very basic tenet, if you're not used to probing around inside a pinball machine, just do it carefully with the power off and good lighting. It's easy to bend things accidentally or catch a switch leaf on a sleeve ... causing more problems than you solve, if you're not paying attention. As someone else said, a switch-bending tool is very very helpful!

Congratulations on getting the game - it looks like it's in great shape cosmetically, and it's loads of fun to play once these problems are sorted out.

card whiz center target (resized).JPGcard whiz center target (resized).JPG

#8 3 years ago

Thanks again to all of you. I am embarrassed to admit this but I found the problem when "under the hood." I noticed way in the back there was another small set of jones plugs lying on the floor of the cabinet. I hadn't seen these after I installed the backglass unit and reached inside for the plugs. This is my 7th pinball machine and when I picked up all the others, I took them apart myself to transport so knew exactly how many jones units there were. Now all the problems including the "3000" target are fixed. My face is red in shame.

However, in attempting to fix this another problem arose. When the ball drained while in the middle of a game, it started registering all the bonus points for the card sets I had knocked down, but then just continued to attempt to register points making that "garunka chunk" sound and would not stop so I had to finally turn off the game. When I turned it on again and started a new game, now it will not register any bonus points when the ball drains. Instead of the yellow arrow going up and loudly registering bonus points for each hand, only the yellow arrow at the very top royal flush hand silently lights up and then goes out and the hands reset with no points.

Sorry to have sort of cried wolf with the other things but I would be grateful if you had any advice as to how to fix this bonus feature problem. I am glad to have such enthusiastic pinball fans for help!

#9 3 years ago

The mech that checks for bonus at the end of the ball is the "I" or "Bonus Unit Relay". It's a touchy little creature called an AS Relay and is located on the underside of the playfield at the left end of a bank of a few relays, connected with its own Jones plug. Just as a first foray, I would examine the Jones plug, unplug, clean and re-seat it, look for loose wires. Assuming that looks good:

You'll see that the I relay has two circuit boards on either side, each having a 2-sided metal wiper that rotates around the circuit boards, making connections as it goes. It's important that the wipers move crisply and cleanly with each pulse of the coil, and that the circuit board traces and wiper contacts are clean so they make good electrical contact. If those things don't happen, your bonus won't work correctly.

You can get your finger in there (carefully) and move the armature - kind of flick it with your finger to simulate it getting a pulse from the coil - to see if the wipers are moving cleanly one position around the circle with each flick of the armature. There's a small nylon ratchet mechanism that makes the wipers move around - if that's not in good shape (the nylon teeth sometimes wear down), you can also have problems.

If things aren't working as they should, you may have to clean the circuit boards/wipers, which involves some disassembly. Luckily, the Jones plug makes it easy to take the AS relay out of the machine to a bench, where you can work on it a little more comfortably if you need to. There's a nice thead with some photos to get you used to the idea:

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/gottlieb-as-relay-repairrebuild

Because the AS relay is such a finicky little beast, there's a good chance that you're having a mechanical problem with it. So as a first step, I would examine this relay carefully, and make sure it's working correctly first. Check all the soldering on it as well. Check the Jones plug.

The bonus system is complicated on Card Whiz - and if your problem is not a mechanical one involving the AS relay, I may not be able to help as I'm not sure I understand it completely myself. But there are some pretty clever folks here who can, so just keep asking for help if the problem is not your AS relay ("I" relay).

#10 3 years ago

Thanks for your advice, paulace. This machine was purchased directly from Gottlieb by a woman who had it in her living room all these years and it is in amazing like-new condition. All of the mechanics seem extremely clean. I located the "I" AS Bonus Relay and even though it looked fine, I carefully took it out and disassembled the wipers on both sides and cleaned the contact plate and wiper contacts as indicated in the link you sent. I clicked the nylon armature and both wipers move as they should.

I reinstalled it and the problem is still there. For instance, if I knock down the cards to make the bonus light on the first third and fifth sets of cards, when the ball drains, the arrow goes past the first and registers the bonus then when it hits third it just sticks there and keeps registering those bonus points until I turn it off. I tried this with the playfield up and when gets stuck like this, the "E" bonus score relay in the lines of relays on the floor of the cabinet keeps firing (see photos to indicate it).

Do you think maybe the "signal is not getting to the "I" relay to click it when it is supposed to be activated? If not then it seems like the "I" relay is ok.

Thanks for your help so far. Do you think I should start another post with just this problem now so some of the other "pretty clever folks here" you mentioned might see it and help? Sorry for all the trouble. This is such a great example of this machine that I have wanted to own forever. I just would like it to work properly.

Card Whiz1 (resized).jpgCard Whiz1 (resized).jpgCard Whiz2 (resized).jpgCard Whiz2 (resized).jpg
#11 3 years ago
Quoted from MiloMV:

the arrow goes past the first and registers the bonus then when it hits third it just sticks there and keeps registering those bonus points until I turn it off.

Use a Bulb tester to find out whether the Bonus Unit relay (I) is getting pulses.
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/reading-gottlieb-schematics#post-2634425
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/em-pinball-circuits-basics-to-not-so-basic/page/2#post-3184715

#12 3 years ago

Wow, your machine is really clean inside! At least you won't have any trouble identifying wire colors or relays. Don't worry, just be persistent and you'll get it working eventually - there are some folks who look at these threads who are very good at solving problems...like HowardR, for instance. The bulb tester he mentions is just two 12V bulbs (auto bulbs) in series with some leads attached so that you can see momentary voltages at any point - it's pretty hard to see a quick voltage spike using a meter, so light bulbs are a good quick visual way to see whether you're getting a voltage at the desired point. It's a handy tool to have.

So Howard's telling you to see if the I relay is getting voltage pulses (clip the light bulb tester leads across the coil lugs), to try to understand why it's sticking at the third bonus light.

#13 3 years ago

What happens if you just light up the first (1000) bonus only? Does it score 1000 pts, then continue on up the ladder? Does it still stick at the 3rd bonus?

And what happens if you light up only the last (5000) bonus? Does it climb all the way up to the 5000 bonus?

#14 3 years ago

The highlighted trail is the circuit that gives a pulse to the I relay to make it move one position as bonuses are counted. When a bonus has been scored, and the ball drains, the E relay is energized, which in this circuit means that the N/O switch labelled "E" is now closed (I've marked it as such in red). The E relay also starts the score motor running, so at some point towards the end of the score motor's 1/3 revolution, motor switch 4C closes. At that point there should be a closed circuit to send voltage to the coil of the I relay. That makes the I relay wipers move one position around their circuit boards. If the I relay is sticking somewhere due to not getting a pulse (the bulb tester will show you whether it is or not), there are 4 switches in the highlighted path involved in this part of the circuit that you could check. The KX make-break switch should be closed, the E switch should be closed (the E relay energized), the BX switch should be closed, and the Motor 4C switch should be open, but should close at some point as the score motor rotates. You'll have to use the wire colors on the schematic to identify the correct switches.

pulse to I relay (resized).JPGpulse to I relay (resized).JPG
#15 3 years ago

Make sure you check the 2 switches on the I Relay as well for proper operation. At pos 0 and 5, they should both be open. At pos 4 and 9, they should both be closed. At all other positions, they will be in opposite positions (one of them open while the other is closed).

#16 3 years ago

Thanks for the advice about testing to see if the "I" unit is receiving pulses, though it may take me a while to get the materials I need to make that bulb tester.

As to your questions, the machine is not doing anything in a consistent manner as to the bonuses. It keeps changing almost every time I try the same thing. Here is a brief log of tests this morning

Lit only the 1000 bonus: registered that bonus and the arrow clicked up along the other four as normal and actually worked as it was supposed to.
Lit 1000 & 2000 bonus: arrow noiselessly went right up to the 5000 bonus with nothing registering.
Lit 1000, 2000, 3000, 4000: arrow noiselessly went right up to the 5000 bonus with nothing registering.
Lit 3000: arrow noiselessly went right up to the 5000 bonus with nothing registering
Lit all five: arrow goes right up to top and registered 5000 point.
Went back and lit just the 1000: arrow noiselessly went right up to the 5000 bonus with nothing registering.
Lit 1000, 3000 & 4000: arrow registered 1000, skipped 2000 then got stuck on 3000 just registering points until I shut it off.
After turning back on:
Lit only the 1000 bonus: registered that bonus and the arrow clicked up along the other four as normal and actually worked as it was supposed to.
Lit 1000, 3000 & 4000 and it went up all five making the appropriate registering sounds and registering the proper points like it was working fine.

Basically it is spastic. Sometimes it works exactly as it is supposed to. At other times it doesn't register the points. At still other times it gets stuck and it usually seems to be on the 3000 bonus. This also may be varying a bit by how many jokers I have hit which ups the value of each target but doesn't affect the ball drain bonus. It is hard to tell as nothing it does seems to have a pattern, though there may be one I am not seeing.

I also check all the fuses I could see and they are fine. I worry that I may have damaged something by not having that one jones unit plugged in while I kept playing game on it trying to figure out what was wrong.

In the meantime I will try to locate the switches that paulace and sudsy7 mentioned.

#17 3 years ago
Quoted from MiloMV:

In the meantime I will try to locate the switches that paulace and sudsy7 mentioned.

The 2 switches for the "I" relay are actually on the "I" relay unit - you cannot miss them.

#18 3 years ago

I took out the "I" relay again and clicked it around and the two switches act exactly as sudsy7 said they should.

I am a bit confused about exactly how to check for a pulse going to the "I" relay with the bulb tester. First where do I attache the two ends. Should it be on the blue and the black wires going into the unit or ones of the many others there. I will need to have the playfield up when I check this and am assuming with the game on I manually knock down targets to create bonus situations then put my finger in the ball return hole to simulate the ball being there to start the bonus counting. Then I watch to see if the light bulb lights each time. Is this correct? If so, since the "hood" is open, why can't I just look at the side of the "I" unit to see if the blades turn each time instead of looking at a light. Sorry to be such a neophyte but I am learning a lot for which I am very thankful.

#19 3 years ago
Quoted from MiloMV:

If so, since the "hood" is open, why can't I just look at the side of the "I" unit to see if the blades turn each time instead of looking at a light

You can do it that way, too. Since your bonus countdown is so erratic, I think it almost has to be a wonky misadjusted "I" relay. Make sure the wiper contacts are clean and making good contact with the copper traces on the boards. Make sure both wipers are adjusted so that they line up with the copper traces at each step.

#20 3 years ago

Yeah, what sudsy said - check those wipers on the I relay. I'm still kind of wondering about a mechanical problem with that relay, too.

As for hooking up a bulb tester to see if you're getting a pulse at a coil, you can just hook up the leads to each lug of the coil. One side of the coil is the return (usually a black wire on Gottliebs), so if all the switches to the right of the coil are closed, and therefore you're getting 25V across the coil, the bulb will light. Sure you CAN watch the coil and see if it fires, but c'mon, how cool is a light bulb flashing instead!!

#21 3 years ago

When I took the "I" relay apart, I cleaned the wiper contacts to shiny bright as well as the plate the travel on.

I may have found the problem but not sure. I put the started a new game with the playfield up and lit the 1000 bonus. I put my finger in the drain hole and the wiper turned and registered the 1000 bonus and clicked up the bonus ladder. I then lit the 1000 & 3000 bonuses but this time the machine got stuck on the 3000 bonus and just kept continually registering 3000 points. The wiper had clicked as it should then stopped on the 7 position. But the odd thing was that the coil on the relay was indeed continuing to fire with each bonus score and it was pulling on the lever that is supposed to turn the ratchet that is attached to the wipers. But the ratchet and the wipers were not turning! This doesn't make sense because the two times I had the unit out and clicked it carefully with my finger, the ratchet and wiper turned completely around without a hitch.

I then turned the machine on again and with the playfield down started a new game. No matter how many bonuses I had lit, on ball drain only the arrow at the to 5000 bonus lights and no bonuses are registered unless the 5000 itself is lit in which case it registered 5000 points. There was not garunka chunk at each bonus, the top arrow simply lit. After two games like this it didn't get stuck again but I know it will at some point on its whim.

What is the most frustrating is that it is so inconsistent that I cannot seem to see a pattern in how it acts to help run down the problem.

Just for my information, could someone tell me how the "I" relay is supposed to function. Is it only supposed to move at ball drain or when the bonuses are lit as well? At each ball drain is it supposed to click through every single step on the plate or is that determined by how many bonuses are lit? Is it suppose to reset after each ball drain or does it just stay were it was? If someone could explain exactly how this piece works, it might help me see where it is not working properly by observing it or watching the light tester when I can make one.

I am almost at the point where I need to step back from this for a while to clear my head. I also do not want to be so much of a bother here. I should take some time on my own to learn to read the schematics and to read the pinball repair book I got from Pinball Resource. Thanks again.

#22 3 years ago
Quoted from MiloMV:

Just for my information, could someone tell me how the "I" relay is supposed to function. Is it only supposed to move at ball drain or when the bonuses are lit as well? At each ball drain is it supposed to click through every single step on the plate or is that determined by how many bonuses are lit? Is it suppose to reset after each ball drain or does it just stay were it was? If someone could explain exactly how this piece works, it might help me see where it is not working properly by observing it or watching the light tester when I can make one.

It only works when the ball drains and will only move if you have at least 1 of the 5 poker hands lit (Pair of Jacks, 3 Queens, etc.). If you don't have any of the 5 poker hands lit, the bonus scoring circuits are not energized. If any one (or more) of the poker hands are lit, it will sequentially go through each one, but will only give points on the ones that are lit (so the yellow arrow will move up sequentially thru all 5 poker hands, but you will only get points for lit ones). If you have double bonus lit, it will cycle twice at each step (the yellow arrow will lite up twice), and it will also award points twice if the bonus lite is lit at that level. It resets after each ball.

I have seen the ratchet teeth wear down and cause skipping, etc. The wear on the teeth was obvious though and the game had 75,000 plays on it. Your game looks almost new, so I doubt yours is worn. Hate to repeat, but there is something wrong with how that "I" relay is put together or how it is adjusted. Maybe post some closeup pictures of it if you can. Also, look at the "F" relay in the backbox, it is the same kind of "AS" relay with 2 wiper boards - compare them for possible assembly differences. Btw, from the condition of your game, I bet it doesn't have more than a couple thousand plays on it - what does the total play meter read in the cabinet out of curiosity?

#23 3 years ago

You know, the way that I relay is constructed, there is the center nylon spindle with teeth on it, and the spring-loaded little tooth that actually pushes on the spindle teeth to move the spindle around (the red arrow is pointing to it). It does seem unlikely that the teeth on the spindle would be worn enough to cause problems seeing as how the machine looks so good otherwise, but it's possible that the spring-loaded tooth or the spring itself isn't situated correctly, and not doing what it's supposed to be doing.

I mention this because according to your post, the I relay is firing and the metal plate is moving up and down, but the spindle isn't rotating...is that correct? If so, look at that spring and tooth and see if they're doing their jobs. I worked on one where the spring had popped out of place, causing erratic movement of the spindle.

Look at the bright side - you'll be able to disassemble/assemble an AS relay in your sleep after this....it's good experience!

AS relay (resized).pngAS relay (resized).png

#24 3 years ago

...and don't worry, you're not bothering us. I'm curious to see if we can get this thing fixed!

I forgot to mention, when you get the I relay up on a bench with a good light, take the opportunity to look carefully at the parts, how they interact with each other, how when the plate is pulled down by the coil, the "tooth" should drop below the next tooth on the spindle and the spring should push it beneath it, so that when the coil releases the plate, the spring on the back of the plate pulls it up and the tooth lodged under the spindle teeth pushes the spindle around one position. Work it slowly with your fingers and watch the parts move, make sure that tooth is moving freely and the spring is pushing it against the spindle. Understand how it all works together - it's not as scary that way.

I'm sorry to keep calling it a "tooth" - I'm sure it's got a real name, I just don't know it. On a ratchet, I think it's called a "claw", but on this....?

#25 3 years ago
Quoted from paulace:

I'm sorry to keep calling it a "tooth" - I'm sure it's got a real name, I just don't know it. On a ratchet, I think it's called a "claw", but on this....?

On the diagram you uploaded, it's referred to as a Drive Pawl. PBResource sells them under the name Drive Finger (P/N C-13817). He also sells the Ratchet (P/N D-8755) and the Drive Finger Spring (P/N A-13819). There are 2 other springs in the assembly as well - Armature Spring (A-8737) and Ratchet Spring (A-8740). But hopefully all the parts are there though and something is just not assembled correctly or out of alignment. It will end up being something simple.

#26 3 years ago

Morning update. First to the machine: according to the dealer I bought it from a woman purchased it new from Gottlieb in 1977 and said she had it in her living room since then. He says he was the second person to have it. It came with all the original score cards, the manual, 2 schematics (one the original which was masking taped to the machine) and a bunch of other gottlieb stuff that only a first time buyer would have. I have 6 other machines and the inside of both the cabinet and the backbox (and all the parts in them) of the Card Whiz look like brand new including the wood itself. Backglass and everything is all original. What puzzles me is the game play meter. As sudsy7 asked, it reads out at 46,852 which is higher than all my other games. Maybe she had kids, then grandchildren that played it endlessly over the past 40 years. So if that is right, it has gotten a lot of play.

Here are photos of the "I" relay unit.

IMG_5735 (resized).jpgIMG_5735 (resized).jpgRelay1 (resized).jpgRelay1 (resized).jpgRelay2 (resized).jpgRelay2 (resized).jpgRelay33 (resized).jpgRelay33 (resized).jpg
#27 3 years ago

Thanks for the info about how the “I” relay is supposed to work. If it is supposed to reset to one particular position after each ball drain it is not doing that. By the way, which number should it be on when reset. Here is this morning test for you to analyze. Did most of this with the playfield down then lifted it to see where the wiper blade was.

1. Started a new game and the wiper was on 5.
2. Lit 1000 & 3000 and the game got stuck registering 3000 points. Lifted the playfield and put my finger in the drain hole to keep it going. The wiper was stuck on 8 and, like last time, the coil was firing and pulling down the lever with the drive pawl continuously but the center nylon spindle was not moving. NOTE: the last time this happened I noticed it was also on 8.
3. Turned off then on then started a new game. Wiper still on 8.
4. Lit all the targets and got stuck again. Wiper still on 8.
5. Clicked the “I” relay carefully with my fingers to move it to 1.
6. Started a new game and wiper remained on 1.
7. Lit 1000 & 3000 and it worked perfectly as it should registering the bonuses.
8. Lit all bonuses and it worked as it should. Wiper now on 0.
9. Dropped two jokers and lit 1000 & 3000 and it worked as it should. Wiper now at 5.
10. Dropped all jokers and lit all bonuses and I think it worked fine but 5th ball was supposed to be double bonus and I don’t think each one registered double.
11. Started new game. Wiper still at 5.

Took the “I” relay out to photograph. Again I held it as it would hang in the game and carefully clicked the lever to simulate the firing coil and it clicked around the entire plate. I made about 5 circuits with no hang-up. Why is it hanging up in the machine?

#28 3 years ago

I’ve cleaned and adjusted several of these little steppers. They will drive you to drink. It’s actually hard to work them by hand and have them work exactly as they do in the game.

There’s an excellent post about the cleaning and adjustment of these on this site:

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/gtb-as-match-stepper-rebuild-step-by-step

The reason I say this is that one of your pictures shows what looks to be a misaligned part that holds the axle with the gear on it. I marked up what I’m talking about and attached it. The goal is to have as little friction or misalignment of that axle as possible.

I can tell you that I have had several times where I was ready to give up and then I found just the right adjustment to get it to run like a clock

Good luck, you will get it.

Dave

72348652-8C50-4667-9791-DB69C3D10C30 (resized).jpeg72348652-8C50-4667-9791-DB69C3D10C30 (resized).jpeg
#29 3 years ago
Quoted from MiloMV:

By the way, which number should it be on when reset.

It should be either at the '0' position or the '5' position - those are the two "home" positions. Those 2 switches on it are what is responsible for ending the bonus scoring and properly indexing it at home for it's next use - that's why it is very important to make sure they are set to open and close as previously stated - you said you checked them, so I'll take your word for it. Any little thing will cause this unit to fail - such as what was pointed out by dgAmpGuy above - that wiper will obviously not be making good contact with the board as it is shown in your picture - it is essentially floating on the shaft and will be hit & miss with respect to closing circuits. One thing that can cause the ratchet to seemingly not rotate is the ratchet index spring (it is just the blade that stops the ratchet from going backwards). If it is not engaging the ratchet teeth correctly, the drive finger would be able to rotate the ratchet back when the armature is pulled toward the coil, then when the armature is released the drive finger will rotate back in the normal direction - the result is one step forward, one step backward and therefore it is stuck in the same position. These AS relays are a pain when you first work on them, and you must be meticulous (check every screw, visually inspect and make sure everything is properly aligned, actuate by hand and verify crisp movement,etc.), but like folks are saying above - once you get them set perfectly, they run like a clock and are very reliable.

#30 3 years ago

Thanks for joining in dgAmpGuy. I took the "I" relay off again and fixed it so the shaft was in the center of the hole with nothing touching. I did this when I put it back together the first time so it wasn't working right before I did this and the shaft was probably ok before I cleaned it.

Started a new game. Looked at wiper which was on 5.
Lit various bonus and jacks hit combinations on the first three balls and all worked absolutely as it was supposed to. Wiper on 5 at end of these.
On 4th ball lit some bonuses and jokers down and again it worked as it was supposed to. However wiper was now on 4 at end of this.
On 5th and last ball which scores double bonuses, I lit all the bonuses (every card down) and hit all the jokers. On ball drain it cycled a few times but the arrow went right to the 5000 and lit and registered just 5000.

From what I am seeing, can I assume that the wipers should be on 5 after the ball drains which is its reset position?

Yes, sudsy7 I had checked and seen that all these parts where available to order, but wanted to make sure these were bad before doing that.

At any rate, very frustrating - I think my head is going to explode. As dgAmpGuy expressed, it is nearing the point where I just want to give up for a while. Game is out in the middle of the floor so I can work on it. Would love to be able to just push it back in line with my other machines and play it, sigh. See photo.

Pinball Machines (resized).jpgPinball Machines (resized).jpg
#31 3 years ago

I just noticed you and djAmpGuy are both Massholes (that's a term of endearment!). Not sure how close you live to each other, but I bet he could fix it before you each finished your first beer

#32 3 years ago

Any little thing will cause this unit to fail - such as what was pointed out by dgAmpGuy above - that wiper will obviously not be making good contact with the board as it is shown in your picture - it is essentially floating on the shaft and will be hit & miss with respect to closing circuits.

sudsy, I sent out my last post before seeing yours which came in while is was typing. I am not sure what you mean by what you said in the quote above. I thought that I just needed to center the shaft in the hole so it would rub against it and possibly slow it down. Obviously that wasn't happening. Did you mean that from what you see the wiper blade itself is essentially not pushed all the way down on the shaft so it is gliding on the surface. I am not sure it that is what you meant because I don't know how you can tell this from the photo. Let me know what you mean and how I should try to fix it.

I live on Martha's Vineyard (grew up here, now retired) and would gladly pay djAmpGuy's ferry ticket and small ransom to come over and fix this thing for me. Just saying!

#33 3 years ago

No that's what you needed to do - when centered it applies pressure to the wiper so it contacts the board well. Check that ratchet index spring b4 you give up for the day.

#34 3 years ago

Last post didn't work right. First time I tried to quote. Continuing what was missing here:

Did you meant that from what you see the wiper blade itself is essentially not pushed all the way down on the shaft so it is not making good contact with the plate. If so I don't know how you can tell that from the photo. Could you let me know exactly what you mean hear and what I might do to correct it. In the meantime I will again go over this as carefully as possible with all your advice.

I live on Martha's Vineyard (grew up here and now am retired). I would gladly pay djAmpGuy's ferry ticket over and a small ransom to come and fix this for me!

#35 3 years ago

Got it, Thanks!

#36 3 years ago

One last thing, are we all pretty sure that the problem I am having is in the "I" relay and not some other component that maybe feeds into it? If yes, then I know I must somehow get this working correctly.

#37 3 years ago

No, pretty sure it's the "I" relay especially when you said the coil is energizing, but the ratchet wasn't turning. Check that ratchet index spring!

Also, the "I" relay unplugs from the machine. Grab a six-pack, take the ferry to his house, and put him to work! If nothing else, you can at least bitch to each other about Brady and Gronk.

#38 3 years ago

If we weren’t in the middle of this virus crap, I would happily come visit and see that nicely preserved machine. I’m sure we could get it going. I have the 4 player version (royal flush) at our vacation place in NH. That one was in sorry shape so I had to go through just about every function.

As a kid, I spent many weeks on West Island an I remember looking out at the Elizabeth islands from the town beach

Dave

#39 3 years ago

Can you take a close-up photo, maybe a bit from the side of the center spindle teeth where they meet the drive pawl. I want to look at those teeth. Maybe if you remove one of the circuit boards, you can get a good side shot of that area. Also, flick that drive pawl with your finger and make sure it moves freely and seats itself up against the center spindle teeth.

That's a nice collection of machines! I don't see many Captain Cards out there in the wild....lots of High Hands. I love AAB games.

#40 3 years ago

paulace, I have taken the "I" relay apart again to photograph for you. I flicked the drive pawl and it moves freely. Again, clicking the lever moves the spindle around flawlessly with no hangups while it is out of the machine.

I am trying to figure the AS Relay Adjustment on page 9 of the manual but is a bit confusing. Including not sure where to go for sudsy7's advice to check the ratchet index spring. Manual says "Adjust the index spring to rest in the 1st tooth back of the center (4) and to exert a minimum of pressure to the ratchet." What the heck is the 1st tooth back of center? Even looking at the diagram they give I have no idea what they are asking me to do. Also the distances between the gaps they mention seem like they need some kind of measuring device I do not have. Would be easier for someone who knew what they were doing to adjust this.

At any rate, paulace, here are the best photos I could take from four different angles.

Spindle1 (resized).jpgSpindle1 (resized).jpgSpindle2 (resized).jpgSpindle2 (resized).jpgSpindle3 (resized).jpgSpindle3 (resized).jpgSpindle4 (resized).jpgSpindle4 (resized).jpg
#41 3 years ago

Wow, that does look clean.
The index sorted nh is the piece of metal in the center that touches the back of the gear and makes sure that the step only goes forward. There are 2 screws than hold it and it is slotted so that you can move it forward and back. The idea is for it to provide the least amount of pressure needed to do its job.

If it really is moving smoothly, I have to wonder if we’re looking at the wrong end and the issue could be the pulses going to this stepper. I’d have to study the schematic to figure out how the timing works - is the pulse controlled by score motor pulses or end-of-stroke on something or a combo. I’ve definitely tracked down issues caused by a pulse that was too quick to do its full job.

Dave

#42 3 years ago

Thanks Dave. Again in rethinking this what gives me pause is that when the game gets stuck and I am holding my finger on the ball drain to make it continue to cycle, the "I" realy coil is continuously firing pulses and pushing up the lever with the paul (just like my finger does) but the wiper stays on 8 and doesn't move. Just a reminder of this.

As to how clean the machine is, here are a few photos of the inside.

Back (resized).jpgBack (resized).jpgBottom (resized).jpgBottom (resized).jpgUnder (resized).jpgUnder (resized).jpg
#43 3 years ago

I'm not too sure you were able to check the ratchet index spring, but that could cause "stalling" like I said. Another thing that you need to check is that the drive finger has some "over travel" on it's stroke. You can see in the adjustment instructions that it calls out for 1-1/4 to 1-1/2 teeth on the stroke. That just means it has to travel far enough to get a bite on the next ratchet tooth or it won't be able to engage it. That would also cause "stalling".

As far as the pulse to the relay, the circuit just has a closed switch on the BX relay and a closed switch on the E relay and a closed switch on the KX relay through which a pulse via Score Motor Switch 4C is sent. 4C is a long pulse (15 degrees). You could easily measure resistance of the circuit to ease your mind about that (do it with the game off of course).

If you want, for the price of postage, you can send me the relay, and I can rebuild it for you. I have a Royal Flush to test it - pretty sure the "I" relay is identical to Card Whiz.

#44 3 years ago

Thanks for offer sudsy7. I actually would like to do this as I feel with my experience I have exhausted what I am capable of doing with this switch.

It would be great if you went over it and brought it into working order. After testing it on your machine to be sure that it is working properly, when I get it back and if my bonuses still don't work as they should, then at least we will know something else is causing the problem.

Is there some way for you to private message me your mailing address or how should you get that to me.

#45 3 years ago
Quoted from MiloMV:

Is there some way for you to private message me your mailing address or how should you get that to me.

I sent you a PM.

#46 3 years ago

Keep us posted here - I'd like to know what the problem was.

#47 3 years ago

Will post findings when I get the part.

#48 3 years ago

Does it look like the damping blade is set too low in this picture? Looks like it is pressing the lower switch blade into the cam... which would add drag. Maybe it's the angle, but the other one looks higher.

Interesting that you have cam-riding blades on the top and bottom of each switch, I suppose it doesn't hurt, but usually only on the bottom blade.

CardWhizASSwitch (resized).jpgCardWhizASSwitch (resized).jpg

#49 3 years ago

It is best to test this relay with power, rather than manual indexing. A simple way is to use the power supply from the coin door lockout coil. Use jumpers from each side of the coin lockout coil (game powered on). Connect one jumper to one lug on the relay and quickly touch the power to the other lug to pulse the relay, just like the game does. If it doesn't index consistently, you can try increasing the tension on the armature spring either just by puling on it, or by slightly bending the tab that one end of the armature spring hooks on to increase tension.

#50 3 years ago

Received the "I" relay today, without adjusting it at all plugged it in my machine and....it worked like a charm - couldn't get it to fail in fact. I took it out and actuated it by hand and it did "hang up" in couple of spots so it has some undue drag in it somewhere (mine never hangs up when actuated by hand). So, I will rebuild it to get it to actuate better, but that apparently is not the primary problem. I think dgAmpGuy was on the right track with his "pulse too quick" theory. But I believe it might rather be "pulse too weak" that could be the problem. There is probably some resistance in the circuit creating a voltage drop and therefore weak pulse. I measured the circuit resistance in my machine and it is 2.5 ohms. MiloMV, you need to take a meter to your machine and hopefully find the culprit. Here is what you need to do:

1. Make sure machine is off, lift up your playfield and reset both the Drop Target Bank and the Sequence Bank by hand (you need to do this because you don't have an "I" relay and the machine won't reset properly without it)
2. Turn on the machine, and start a new game, let it reset. When it stops, turn off the machine. (This just makes sure your BX relay is latched - you can also do it by hand but this is the easy way with no explanation required)
3. On the jones plug where your "I" relay used to plug in, clip one lead of your meter on the socket with the Blue-White-Red wire soldered to it.
4. Clip the other lead of your meter on the "BX" relay switch blade tab that has a Red-White wire soldered to it (it's on floor of the cabinet easy access because it is the outboard switch blade).
5. With one free hand, "hold in" the "E" relay armature (also on the cabinet floor - just push the plastic piece with the slots holding the switch blades - or you could use a rubber band or something to hold it in - your choice)
6. With the other hand, slowly rotate the score motor (counterclockwise) until you see the resistance suddenly drop - it will be almost at the end of the cycle (a cycle on a Gottlieb is 1/3 of a full revolution in case you don't know that) and note the resistance - it should be close to 2.5 ohms.

If it's significantly higher, you will need to use jumper wires to bypass switches/wires in the circuit to find what is causing the extra resistance. But before you whip out the jumper wires, demate/inspect/remate the two Jones plugs connecting the cabinet to the playfield and see if your circuit resistance has improved. Then closely inspect the switch stacks on relays "BX", "KX", "E", and Score Motor 4. Look for loose hold-down screws, loose or fouled contacts, bad wire solder joints, misadjusted switches, etc. If you find something, correct it and repeat the resistance check. If resistance is still high, then you need to use jumper wire to find your bogey. Good luck and let us know your results.
I Relay Circuit (resized).jpgI Relay Circuit (resized).jpg

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