(Topic ID: 309853)

Gottlieb Card Whiz match is always 10

By MarkAnderson

2 years ago


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  • 30 posts
  • 11 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 2 years ago by Animal
  • Topic is favorited by 1 Pinsider

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#1 2 years ago

Working on a Gottlieb Card Whiz. The match is always 10. I own and am loonking at the schematic Do I need to dissassemble the match unit in the head? Do I need to clean it? Do I need to clean the contacts? I have heard some people say that it is important to cover the rivets on most steppers with grease that keeps it from oxidizing. Others have said to leave it shiny with no grease. Which is correct?

#2 2 years ago

If you're unsure what to do, a good place to start is pinrepair:

http://www.pinrepair.com/em/index2.htm#steps

search for "Gottlieb's AS Relay (the Miniature Stepper)"

#3 2 years ago
Quoted from MarkAnderson:

Working on a Gottlieb Card Whiz. The match is always 10. I own and am loonking at the schematic Do I need to dissassemble the match unit in the head? Do I need to clean it? Do I need to clean the contacts? I have heard some people say that it is important to cover the rivets on most steppers with grease that keeps it from oxidizing. Others have said to leave it shiny with no grease. Which is correct?

shiny with no grease is how I like the steppers. I wouldn't disassemble anything yet. Someone with your schematic will chime in and get you going. it's probably a dirty relay that fires that match stepper. Maybe a dirty switch in the 10 point relay. But I'm guessing.

#4 2 years ago
Quoted from iamdrunker:

shiny with no grease is how I like the steppers. I wouldn't disassemble anything yet. Someone with your schematic will chime in and get you going. it's probably a dirty relay that fires that match stepper. Maybe a dirty switch in the 10 point relay. But I'm guessing.

#5 2 years ago
Quoted from DaMoib:

If you're unsure what to do, a good place to start is pinrepair:
http://www.pinrepair.com/em/index2.htm#steps
search for "Gottlieb's AS Relay (the Miniature Stepper)"

The relay quoted is your 'F' relay or '00 to 90 - Unit Relay' in the back box. This is likely not stepping correctly when triggered by 10 point contacts.

#6 2 years ago
Quoted from DaMoib:

If you're unsure what to do, a good place to start is pinrepair:
http://www.pinrepair.com/em/index2.htm#steps
search for "Gottlieb's AS Relay (the Miniature Stepper)"

Excellent idea. I did start there.

#7 2 years ago
Quoted from DaMoib:

If you're unsure what to do, a good place to start is pinrepair:
http://www.pinrepair.com/em/index2.htm#steps
search for "Gottlieb's AS Relay (the Miniature Stepper)"

great idea I read it last night.

#8 2 years ago
Quoted from oldpins:

The relay quoted is your 'F' relay or '00 to 90 - Unit Relay' in the back box. This is likely not stepping correctly when triggered by 10 point contacts.

I have it out and it does not seem to readily advance. I cannot tell if the plastic ratchet steps on the mechanism are too worn or if the dirt is keeping it from moving or if the solenoid is not pulling in enough or if it is something else.

#9 2 years ago
Quoted from MarkAnderson:

I have it out and it does not seem to readily advance. I cannot tell if the plastic ratchet steps on the mechanism are too worn or if the dirt is keeping it from moving or if the solenoid is not pulling in enough or if it is something else.

Post a few pics please

#10 2 years ago
Quoted from MarkAnderson:

I have it out and it does not seem to readily advance. I cannot tell if the plastic ratchet steps on the mechanism are too worn or if the dirt is keeping it from moving or if the solenoid is not pulling in enough or if it is something else.

So when you actuate the armature plate with your thumb, nothing happens when you release the plate? It doesn't snap back? Or, it snaps back but the gear and wipers don't move?

#11 2 years ago
Quoted from Garrett:

Post a few pics please

Here are the pics. I am glad that you asked me to post them because It made me look at them in better light. If they are not functioning I don't think that they are extremely dirty. I added the jones plugs because I suspect that the shown parts of the AS stepper unit are not the issue.

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#12 2 years ago

Personally, the way I deal with those, which will make some cringe probably.. I use alcohol and 600 grit paper and just shine the board up. I hit the contacts as well. Then I put a thin layer of pbr grease over the whole board. I use qtips and alcohol on the gears making sure they are clean. Then I lightly grease them as well with pbr grease. Actuating the armature plate quickly, it should rotate. Work it a few rotations, and if it doesn't loosen up, bend the contact arm spring to lessen the pressure until it rotates freely.

#13 2 years ago
Quoted from DaMoib:

So when you actuate the armature plate with your thumb, nothing happens when you release the plate? It doesn't snap back? Or, it snaps back but the gear and wipers don't move?

It doesn't snap back. It didn't snap back before I cleaned it and put Teflon grease on the gear. It's reluctance to snap back is about as bad as before. When I articulate the armature plate it doesn't snap back it remains articulated. After rereading Clays pinrepair on the it seems like my next step is to cut a couple loops out of the spring and then rebend the spring to connect to the tab and see if that makes it function properly. Then if that doesn't work my next options are to replace the spring and the nylon parts because Clay says that they are heat warped if the spring doesnt change things.

#14 2 years ago

Also make sure those two switches aren't riding the alternating cam too hard - that can cause a lot of drag on the unit. You can try to back off on the blade tension, or just loosen the switch screws for a quick test.

#15 2 years ago
Quoted from DaMoib:

Also make sure those two switches aren't riding the alternating cam too hard - that can cause a lot of drag on the unit. You can try to back off on the blade tension, or just loosen the switch screws for a quick test.

Currently it appears to be working. To confirm a neighbor came over and confirmed the movement of the AS relay with every 10 points scored. Since my last post I removed it again and cleaned the nylon ratchet with q-tips and alcohol. I removed 3 more loops from the spring for a total of 8 loops removed. I am a worried that all the tension is going to prevent the unit from moving at all. What are your thoughts on replacing the spring with a new part from Pinball Resource when I place my next order. I suppose I could replace the nylon parts also but they do not look very worn to me. Clay says doing less on these units is more. I don't want to replace a large number of parts and then have it stop working. I did not use teflon grease on the teeth of the ratchet in your opinion should I grease that?

#16 2 years ago

8 loops... you're compensating for some drag in the system. Try loosening up the switch or remove the rotors and test by hand. Something is exerting too much resistance.

Definitely order a new spring, just in case you find the drag. Some of the nylon parts are OOS at PBR.

#17 2 years ago
Quoted from DaMoib:

8 loops... you're compensating for some drag in the system. Try loosening up the switch or remove the rotors and test by hand. Something is exerting too much resistance.
Definitely order a new spring, just in case you find the drag. Some of the nylon parts are OOS at PBR.

It is remotely possible that I removed 3 spring loops and then 3 more so even if I pulled 6 I would imagine 6 is still an issue. It seems like what PBR is calling the assembled armature (GTB-A14044) always wants to hang off to one side and does ratchet I dont know of the wear on the cam which looks insignificant is causing that or if there is some type of damage to the pivot point of the armature or possibly the spring is pulling it to one side.

#18 2 years ago
Quoted from DaMoib:

8 loops... you're compensating for some drag in the system. Try loosening up the switch or remove the rotors and test by hand. Something is exerting too much resistance.
Definitely order a new spring, just in case you find the drag. Some of the nylon parts are OOS at PBR.

I looked at everything again. I agree with you that something is dragging the movement of the whole assembly down right now. I cannot find a main issue causing it. I am planning on buying the following at PBR and installing in this order testing after each item is installed:
1 X Spring A-8737,
1 X Drive Finger C-13817,
1 X Drive Finger Spring A-13819

I would think that the nylon Ratchet would be the second most worn item after the spring and drive finger because it is nylon and it sees a lot of use. Is the fact that PBR has none in stock and indicator that it was just well designed initially by Gottlieb and they never fail therefore PBR does not even stock them or is PBR just out. Is there anything else that you would replace or that you would do while I am ordering these?

#19 2 years ago

Have you done tests like these? -

With the AS relay removed from the pin:

1) Actuate the armature with your finger and get a sense of how bound up it is, then

2) relieve all pressure on the black cam by unscrewing the switch stack (let it dangle out of the way). Actuate the armature a few more times... is it any better?

3) if not, remove the wipers from the ratchet shaft. Actuate the armature a few more times... is it any better?

#20 2 years ago
Quoted from DaMoib:

Have you done tests like these? -
With the AS relay removed from the pin:
1) Actuate the armature with your finger and get a sense of how bound up it is, then
2) relieve all pressure on the black cam by unscrewing the switch stack (let it dangle out of the way). Actuate the armature a few more times... is it any better?
3) if not, remove the wipers from the ratchet shaft. Actuate the armature a few more times... is it any better?

No I will do those.

#21 2 years ago

I have cleaned quite a few of those units over the last few years and haven’t needed to mess with the spring or replace gears. This post was the key one that helped me:

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/gtb-as-match-stepper-rebuild-step-by-step

In my experience, the key thing is to get everything clean, followed by making sure everything is aligned correctly and the little arms are not dragging on the axle at all. The switches that ride on the cam (if present) must have as little tension as necessary. I also do super lube the circuit board wipers (very little) and the switch cam. When they’re done, they should step nicely like little clocks.

There are 2 adjustments noted in the gottlieb documentation. One talks about the little blade that makes sure that it can’t step backwards. You don’t want that one pushing so hard into the gear that it adds a lot of drag. The other one rotates the cross piece to make sure that the “throw” of the armature is the right amount to allow it to click to the next spot on the gear.

Sorry for all the words. I think it’s harder to explain than to actually do it, once you’ve been successful. I was really frustrated and stuck on the first one that I did, but practice did help.

Good luck.

Dave

#22 2 years ago
Quoted from dgAmpGuy:

I have cleaned quite a few of those units over the last few years and haven’t needed to mess with the spring or replace gears. This post was the key one that helped me:
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/gtb-as-match-stepper-rebuild-step-by-step
In my experience, the key thing is to get everything clean, followed by making sure everything is aligned correctly and the little arms are not dragging on the axle at all. The switches that ride on the cam (if present) must have as little tension as necessary. I also do super lube the circuit board wipers (very little) and the switch cam. When they’re done, they should step nicely like little clocks.
There are 2 adjustments noted in the gottlieb documentation. One talks about the little blade that makes sure that it can’t step backwards. You don’t want that one pushing so hard into the gear that it adds a lot of drag. The other one rotates the cross piece to make sure that the “throw” of the armature is the right amount to allow it to click to the next spot on the gear.
Sorry for all the words. I think it’s harder to explain than to actually do it, once you’ve been successful. I was really frustrated and stuck on the first one that I did, but practice did help.
Good luck.
Dave

Thank you I will do all that.

#23 2 years ago

I had something similar on my Big Hit. What resolved my issue was cleaning the contact point I highlighted in the pic. The metal gear teeth and catch that rides on top of it were dirty and corroded.

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#24 2 years ago
Quoted from jasonspoint28:

I had something similar on my Big Hit. What resolved my issue was cleaning the contact point I highlighted in the pic. The metal gear teeth and catch that rides on top of it were dirty and corroded.
[quoted image][quoted image]

Thank you for mentioning that. I did look at mine and strangely enough it looks almost brand new. I don't suspect it as being the issue but its nice to have you point out a potential issue to investigate.

2 weeks later
#25 2 years ago

So I thought at this point I would be thanking everyone for their help on my F/AS relay. PBR sent me the
1 X Spring A-8737,
1 X Drive Finger C-13817,
1 X Drive Finger Spring A-13819
1X Ratchet D-8755
I installed all of them. I used silicone grease on everything.
I made sure that everything was adjusted properly. I am happy to discuss every point on the installation or the adjustments recommended in the Gottlieb_AS-relay_Adjustment_B-11492 to make sure that I did them properly. I did not include them to cut back on all the details.

I put the assembly in the machine and the match number never changes. The only thing that could have been done differently was to install the new drive finger with less spring pressure. It seems like it wraps around twice or one and a half times maybe the ideal amount is less than once. I will readjust the spring on the drive finger first before I follow through on the below items. I am very sure that it is not the issue.

Watching the relay during gameplay it does not seem to be getting energized at all. Does anyone have any tricks to see if the coil is getting energy?
If it isn't I would imagine that I look for burning in the coil. Is there a way to test the function of the coil? If the coil is ok where do I look to rule out the potential places where something should be making the coil fire but it is not. It seems like it has to be close to the coil because something would make the coil fire and move the match number once or twice. It never moves. Schematic of that area is attached. Anyone have any thoughts?

Gottlieb f relay movement (resized).jpgGottlieb f relay movement (resized).jpgGottlieb_AS-relay_Adjustment_B-11492 (resized).jpgGottlieb_AS-relay_Adjustment_B-11492 (resized).jpg
#26 2 years ago

I haven't read all of the back and forth above so sorry if I'm repeating anything there.

You want to visit the two noted switches. One on the N 10 point relay and one on the B pop bumper relay. Since there are two different paths to actuate this relay it would be odd for both of them to be out of adjustment but it is possible.

Check the power path to the relay coil. Jumper along the way.

Check the coil itself. I'd hate to think there is a break in the winding. Check its resistance.

#27 2 years ago
Quoted from MikeO:

I haven't read all of the back and forth above so sorry if I'm repeating anything there.
You want to visit the two noted switches. One on the N 10 point relay and one on the B pop bumper relay. Since there are two different paths to actuate this relay it would be odd for both of them to be out of adjustment but it is possible.
Check the power path to the relay coil. Jumper along the way.
Check the coil itself. I'd hate to think there is a break in the winding. Check its resistance.

Thanks I will do that and check back.

#28 2 years ago
Quoted from MarkAnderson:

Watching the relay during gameplay it does not seem to be getting energized at all. Does anyone have any tricks to see if the coil is getting energy?

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/make-yourself-a-bulb-tester

Your AS relay may well have needed a cleaning, but it seems unlikely that it needed new parts. Establishing whether an issue is electrical or mechanical should be near the top of things to try. In this case using a bulb tester or swapping in the other working AS relay might have established whether the circuit is working.

/Mark

1 week later
#29 2 years ago

yes that is what I am learning unfortunately after the fact of replacing parts.

#30 2 years ago

I just fixed this today on mine using, what Id call the lazy mans method:
"I find it much easier to take the relay coil off (set it aside somewhere) and then soak the entire "AS" unit in Mean Green and scrub with a toothbrush. Then rinse off with hot water. Gets the whole unit clean without having to take it apart. Naturally, if there are worn parts then you'd need to disassemble it.

I clean all the gunk off the circuit boards with lighter fluid on a cotton swab or on a paper towel. Then I use 150 grit sandpaper on the copper foil then finish that with a quick swabbing of the fiberglass eraser pen.

I smear a thin coat of the Radio Shack clear lube gel on the copper foil."

This is post #16 from this thread: gtb "as" match stepper rebuild - step by step

I did exactly as he said and it worked like a charm - I got lucky - best of luck.

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