(Topic ID: 116042)

Gottlieb Buccaneer - special lights[fixed]/No Match or Match Lights[Fixed]

By allknowing2012

9 years ago


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BucaneerSchematics1.pdf (PDF preview)
BucaneerSchematics4.pdf (PDF preview)
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volleyteardown 012.jpg
volleyteardown 011.jpg
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There are 54 posts in this topic. You are on page 1 of 2.
#1 9 years ago

With the help of youtube and this forum I was able to quickly diagnose an issue with #1 and #2 lights not registering/lighting(the reset bar had dropped ever so slightly to cause a misalignment - retighten the wing nut and that was solved).

Now a little one that perhaps someone can assist with. During testing of the above issue, I noticed the special light is stuck on the left lane. It never moves.

When should it move? Is it a mechanical issue or user error?

I have attached a couple schematics shots. It would appear that it should flip based on the FS(1) ? switch/motor/solenoid?? Any clues what that is or where it is?

Thanks.
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Post edited by allknowing2012: Update topic line

#2 9 years ago

Take a look at this video. You should be able to identify the FS relay from it. Good luck!

#3 9 years ago

The FS relay is the most despicable device known to man.

It is the little mini stepper that goes round and round when you hit the spinner. There is a cam on top of it and a switch that rides on this cam. Per your schematic, that needs to go up/down and open one side of the make/break switch and close the other with each run up and down the cam.

It could be boogered up mechanically or no contacting. I'm voting on mechanically boogered.

#4 9 years ago

Here is a picture of the misereable switch that is likely giving you a fit. It isn't in the video.

volleyteardown 011.jpgvolleyteardown 011.jpg volleyteardown 012.jpgvolleyteardown 012.jpg
#5 9 years ago

OK. I take that back. After reading the schematic, the FS is the one for your match lights. It should be in the back box. The other FS "type" relay is for the spinner. I have a Ship Ahoy, and there is no match so only one spinning relay.

It is still the most miserable device known to man though. And your game has two. I'm just sayin'

Also, on some games, these can be unplugged. Lets hope yours is still there. The only thing worse than having an FS relay is not having one if you need it.

#6 9 years ago

Thanks all.. it gives me something to go on...Will update with the findings..

#7 9 years ago

I cant find it I found the KS relay that looks like the one above but the schematics say that is a 2 disc advance unit. I have uploaded a video of the internals or my machine if that helps anyone help me point me towards this fs relay. (video is uploaded, I will edit this post with the url)

#8 9 years ago
Quoted from newmantjn:

Also, on some games, these can be unplugged. Lets hope yours is still there. The only thing worse than having an FS relay is not having one if you need it.

that. maybe.

#9 9 years ago

Look in the back box for a set of two jones plug receptacles that are empty. Here they are plugged in, but this is what you are looking for. If those are empty, you need to go get an FS relay. Not sure where. PGR is a guess.

SkyJump (4).JPGSkyJump (4).JPG
#10 9 years ago

You DID look in the backbox, right?

#11 9 years ago

Ok

(cab video .. not needed but here it is anyway

)

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#12 9 years ago

Note the one tab at say 3oclock DOES NOT have a wire attached.. ??
I think the little sucker is jammed.. playing with the metal leaver now.
Okay it moves freely now .. it was just in slanted.. I have put it back in the machine but still nothing on the table seems to activate that relay to make it switch.
It works nicely with me clicking on the relay lever/metal thing. It moves from L-R-LR-L-R or something like that.

#13 9 years ago

The FS mini-stepper is indeed what alternates the left/right Special lights. But it's not the wiper blades, it's the switch blade that rides on the black plastic cam that opens/closes that changes the lights.

But here's the kicker: the schematic says that FS only steps during game reset while the score reels are being reset. It's fed from the switch on AX that controls the 100's reel reset, but would be pulsed whenever the score motor switch 1A is pulsed to complete all the score reel resets. The result would be that once reset is complete, the Match number is cast, and FS shouldn't move again.

However, I know from having owned the game that the 10 and 11 Specials do alternate, so I'm going to conclude that there's an error on the schematic (or at least the one I have), and that the line should have been drawn to the 100's scoring path instead of the reset path. I would then expect FS to step whenever 100 points are scored.

I no longer have the game though, so I can't confirm.

#14 9 years ago

So I put the FS switch back in .. no difference. Special light still stays on the #10 switch. It would appear from the schematic it should change for each 10pt score - if I am reading this right. I see that the two 0 tab wires are neatly removed and wrapped around the existing wires. I will try alligator clipping them back on temporarily to see if that corrects the issue. Attached are pics of the wires and FS schematics. Am I correct in interpreting the schematics?
(looks like the last pic is too blurry

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#15 9 years ago

Those parts of the schematic don't show the FS coil path though (the FS coil is shown right about the 100's score reel coil, lower down on the schematic).

With those two wires off, the 'common' trace on the boards are disconnected, and Match won't work. But those don't affect the Special lights. That's the switch blade behind the one board, which rides up and down on the black plastic cam.

#16 9 years ago

Yeah .. i think what I really wanted to post was in the fuzzy last image I will check what you noted and report back later today. This switch blade .. is litteraly on the other side of the brown board hey..

Come to think of it .. I don't have match on this game. Funny I had this machine for like 10 years and with it being set for free play, I never noticed. Just getting back into the pinball bug with my kids and trying to bring it back to 100%.

#17 9 years ago
Quoted from allknowing2012:

I was able to move the spring/actuator and that made the light move. I pulled it from the cab. What should I look for

After re-installation, see if the solenoid ever moves. (my guess is no).

Snap pictures of the FS area of the schematic and post for a bunch of help, if you would like.

#18 9 years ago

You were correct .. the solenoid never moved, no matches & no lane switch from #10 to #11 for specials.
Uploading the schematic shots.
I noticed too that the 10s scoring motor has had some surgery on it. I see black tape around the wiring bundle. 10's digit is working fine however.
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#19 9 years ago

My read of the schematic is still that FS will only step during game reset. But my recollection of playing Buccaneer is that the Special will alternate. At the moment, I can't reconcile the two.

Anyone have a working Buccaneer who could confirm what the behavior actually is?

#20 9 years ago

The Special lights do alternate side to side. I will play with it later and advise what scoring triggers it to alternate.

#21 9 years ago

Special alternates sides with 100 point hits. Cant pick up the pattern but it is usually two hits on the 100. Sometimes just one, a couple times it was three hits to change it.

#22 9 years ago

Note... My game is set to 5 balls ... Not sure if that has any bearing on it.

#23 9 years ago
Quoted from Chum43:

Special alternates sides with 100 point hits. Cant pick up the pattern but it is usually two hits on the 100. Sometimes just one, a couple times it was three hits to change it.

Thanks for checking!

I think that suggests a couple things then. First, the schematic probably should have the line drawn from FS down to the scoring path to the 100's coil instead of the reset path. And second, I think the FS stepper on your Buccaneer may need some attention, Chum.
(It should alternate with each step.)

#24 9 years ago

I must be dense. I don't see the FS relay on those schematics?

#25 9 years ago
Quoted from newmantjn:

I must be dense. I don't see the FS relay on those schematics?

It's between the "Ten's Unit" and "Hundred's Unit" coils, shifted to the right a bit.

#26 9 years ago

Thanks, Dirt

OK, so my read on that schematic is that IF the M relay pulls in AND the 100s runout switch is closed, THEN the FS will step. (Even if the AX is open)

In other words, once per revolution of the 100s reel.

#27 9 years ago
Quoted from newmantjn:

Thanks, Dirt
OK, so my read on that schematic is that IF the M relay pulls in AND the 100s runout switch is closed, THEN the FS will step. (Even if the AX is open)
In other words, once per revolution of the 100s reel.

Ah, of course! Bit by the back track drawing trace again.

So FS should step as long as the 100's reel isn't on 0, and the 100's reel steps. Then the special lights should alternate each time, unless the 100's reel is stepping from 0 to 1.

(Gotta get more coffee...)

#28 9 years ago
Quoted from newmantjn:

In other words, once per revolution of the 100s reel.

Nine times per full rev though, right? The runout switch will be closed as long as the reel isn't on 0.

#29 9 years ago
Quoted from DirtFlipper:

So FS should step as long as the 100's reel isn't on 0,

Whoops. 9 times/rev, not once.

That makes more sense. Especially when a match is involved, they liked to pseudo randomize it. I suppose just setting in on reset, fed through the A relay might do it, but if you were good, you might count it. People did crazy stuff to get a free game. I think I remember somebody having a calculator or something. I can't believe it worked though.

#30 9 years ago
Quoted from newmantjn:

I think I remember somebody having a calculator or something. I can't believe it worked though.

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/dangerous-dann-franks-match-predictor

#31 9 years ago

Very interesting. I also think it is total BS. I like the disclaimer - "if it isn't accurate, the machine is wrong. "

#32 9 years ago

Wow .. all that .. I will have to look harder at the schematics as I dont see where you are coming up with these details.

So is my todo .. hit the 100's and see if the FS switch rotates?

btw, I hope to post a complete clear pic later this evening for you and others with similar machines.

#33 9 years ago

Okay I see the FS on the schematic... am I reading this right?
It would step if:
AX closes and Motor 1A closes? (whatever those are -- have to google that)
or
Motor 1A closes + M relay closes and hundreds runout closes.

BTW -- this is setup as 5 ball machine.

#34 9 years ago

FS will activate with either:
- AX active and a switch at motor position 1A (which will only occur during game reset); or
- M active and the 100s score reel not on zero (which will cause the 100s reel 'runout' switch to be closed). This path is only used when 100 points are being scored, and the score reel isn't transitioning from 0 to 1.

3 or 5 ball setting doesn't affect this.

On the Gottlieb schematics, only the lines that intersect with the black dot share the logic path; lines that only cross but don't have the black dot are not on the same logic path (they're just drawn that way for convenience in routing the drawing).

Don't post the complete schematic; the copyright is still enforced by Gottlieb, LLC (if that's what you meant by "complete clear pic", otherwise never mind).

#35 9 years ago

K. Is there something I should to troubleshoot this?
First see if it moves on game reset and secondly test with hitting 100pts (although I likely tested this yesterday inadvertantly). Should I test with a test light or meter or something else?

#36 9 years ago

Meter is good. Need to get from the coil to the jones plug, the jones plug to the runout switch, runout switch to the M relay, etc. If it works during game reset, but not by scoring 100 pts, then that's a very helpful isolation observation.

#37 9 years ago

Is the location in the Jones plug some how denoted on the schematic? What is there 6x2 pins. The wire colors can be a bit hard to decipher.

#38 9 years ago
Quoted from allknowing2012:

Is the location in the Jones plug some how denoted on the schematic? What is there 6x2 pins. The wire colors can be a bit hard to decipher.

Nope, just the colors.

#39 9 years ago

Okay .. it never moves even during power up, game start, game play.
(I am a rookie electronics guy) I have set the meter such that if i touch the probes together, it registers.
I checked for connectivity from FS black to jones . ok
FS BR+red to jones .. ok
jones to 100's unit br+red . ok
When at 0 - jones to 2nd blade of br+red (could that be br-red?) .. ok
jones to 2nd blade .. nothing when not 0.
Looking for M relay now .. update coming.

#40 9 years ago

Okay idiot check .. I hooked up the 12v probes to each side of the fs relay ... wouldn't you know.. it registers 12volts during the 100's moves.
So that tells me its dead right?
It shows connectivity .. hmm . could it still be bad?

#41 9 years ago

With the FS jones plugs disconnected (to open the path), do you get continuity across the FS coil lugs? If so, check the ohms reading. If not, then there's an open at the coil itself (which means it won't work).

#42 9 years ago

The coil wire came or was off the lug. I can't seem to get a reliable number to show. It bounces from 30+ down to zero. I will try and solder it back on and check again. Looks like I may have to mailorder a replacement if need be...$30 for an 8$ part but oh well.. (shipping cdn$ mailorder)

#43 9 years ago
Quoted from allknowing2012:

The coil wire came or was off the lug. I can't seem to get a reliable number to show. It bounces from 30+ down to zero. I will try and solder it back on and check again. Looks like I may have to mailorder a replacement if need be...$30 for an 8$ part but oh well.. (shipping cdn$ mailorder)

Should be able to solder that back on OK, rather than replace.

#44 9 years ago

Okay .. solder fixed the fs relay (registers with ohm meter too) - it switches as expected now for specials and it moves at various times (100's, game reset etc).
Still no match lights show or rewardedhowever .
Should I start another thread and mark this closed?
Do you have any suggestions on that? (I will review the schematics as well).

Thinking that game over light comes on, so that means the R relay isn't opened? The white wires were FS wheel thing - they are now..
Need to find the R relay.

#45 9 years ago

Did you solder back on the other to wires to the '0' lugs?

#46 9 years ago

Yes. I will see if it registers voltage.

#47 9 years ago

One board of that FS mini stepper is for the match lights, and the other board is for the actual match function. And as you've seen there on the schematic, there's a make/break switch on R that needs to be closed for them to light at all. R should activate and stay activated after starting a game.

So could be the switch at R, or the wiper blade/board on FS.

(R is located on the score motor board.)

#48 9 years ago

I see a relay labeled R in the main cabinet..going to look into that to see what it shows.
If I connect a lead to the white tab on the mini stepper - and the ground to say the wire that goes around the back light cabinet - it should show +12v ? at game over?

#49 9 years ago

I havent figured out this match problem yet. Here is what I have found. The R relay stays energized thru the game and after the 5th ball. The S relay is not energized at the end.
There is no voltage at the FS white leads at all. The FS relay does move. When I apply voltage to the white leads I get match lights and when the FS relay is clicked thru .. I get match lights 00 thru 90.

The Gameover light is on is lit .. and the pirate flag lights up .. I think that is indicated on the schematic correctly.

Based on the one schematic .. the R relay has to be open - unenergized (?) for the lights to work.
From what appears to be the white blade on the switch stack it is open while R relay is energized using a meter [correct?].

How to get the R relay open?
Based on the other schematic.
R relay open if S has to be closed - it is not.
R relay open if R has to be closed?? or LightAntiSw Open or H has to be open (beleive that is closed).
*and* the anti-cheat sw has to be closed .. hmm .. let me double check that too.

Does make any sense? Any pointers?

BucaneerSchematics4.pdfBucaneerSchematics4.pdf
BucaneerSchematics1.pdfBucaneerSchematics1.pdf

#50 9 years ago
Quoted from allknowing2012:

Based on the one schematic .. the R relay has to be open - unenergized (?) for the lights to work.

No, actually R needs to be energized for the Match lights to work. The schematic (as drawn) represents the state of the game following reset and ball 1 sitting at the plunger, and the game powered off (kind of an odd convention they followed). So that make/break switch shown on the schematic going to the Match lights will be in the opposite state when the game is on following a reset. When the game is first powered on, but before starting a game, R has not yet energized so the Game Over and pirate flag lights are the only things on.

But since the R relay is on the score motor board and the match lights are in the backbox, there's a jones plug connection the signal has to pass through, which means there could be an open/dirty contact there as well to check.

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