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(Topic ID: 270134)

Gottlieb Bone Busters


By DJSPIDER

4 months ago



Topic Stats

  • 35 posts
  • 7 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 20 days ago by Joco77
  • No one calls this topic a favorite

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#1 4 months ago

Hi everyone.
First, sorry for my poor english. I will try to be understood.
I have a Gottlieb Bone Busters pinball.
I get some problems with the pinball.
The game is starting well, flippers are working. But during the game, some solenoid don't work, or if the ball fall in a "lock" hole, nothing happen.
The pop bumper didnt work, the kickback didnt work. On the bench test, these two solenoid works well.
when i did a lamp test, everything works. when i did a relay and solenoid test, test testing mode stuck on "solenoid 0" and this solenoid come on and off without stoping till i switch off the pinball.
After i read some topics, i have repin the A3-J3 and the contril driver connector but the problem still.
Also, the driver board is brand new, a rottendog GDB080 and during the first utilisation, the driver board was running perfectly.
Any idea or suggestion?
Thanks in advanced to everyone

#2 4 months ago

what do you get in the switch test? could be switches or possibly the diode boards.

#3 4 months ago

Hi Bax1
everything are good in the switch test. All switch closed

#4 4 months ago

I have had a few machines that had wacky issues due to the interconnect between the mpu and the driver board. Things not working or randomly locking on, machine rebooting mid game. If I have 1 connector that needs news crimps I just replace all of them on all the connectors.

#5 4 months ago
Quoted from DJSPIDER:

Hi Bax1
everything are good in the switch test. All switch closed

all switches should be open expect the trough when the balls are in there.

Quoted from 20eyes:

I have had a few machines that had wacky issues due to the interconnect between the mpu and the driver board. Things not working or randomly locking on, machine rebooting mid game. If I have 1 connector that needs news crimps I just replace all of them on all the connectors.

Good idea on the interconnect. Also has the piggy back board on the cpu been reflowed?

#6 4 months ago

Yes, you are right. All switch are open but the through hole (i remove the ball in it for the test and after that all switch open.
Thanks for your siggestions. I will try to see if my control driver connector are ok. I think he is but i will did another test with multimeter. This connector are brand new but maybe he can be the problem.
I will forward the result
Thanks

#7 4 months ago

What do you mean "The piggy back board on the cpu been reflowed?

#8 4 months ago
Quoted from DJSPIDER:

What do you mean "The piggy back board on the cpu been reflowed?

if you have the original cpu board, the piggy back is that raised board. typically it will cause resetting issues though.

#9 4 months ago

After some multimeter tests, the problem still!
There is some pictures:
CPU board are brand new
Driver board are brande new
Control driver connector are brand new and everything look good on the bench test
A3-J3 have been repin.
Well, i dont know waht to do at this time????
Thanks to all for your help

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#10 4 months ago

ok now that I am thinking about it, they work in lamp test and don't in game play. do you have the schematic? this should hopefully be a simple fix. so it has to be tide to those switches. so could be the switch, diode, or the wiring. go into switch test again and activate those switches to see if they register. if not look at the matrix to see if they are all tied together. check the diode boards too. the diodes could look good but may be bad. Need to meter them.

#11 4 months ago

I don't have the schematic and it seems realy hard to find on the internet!

#12 4 months ago

After a lot of tests........
The problem still!
When i did a test mode, the test mode stuck on LAMP 0. and clic, clic, clic, clic, clic, clic, till a turn off the pinball. The sound come from a switch or something like this with a sticker on it "Q". See pics

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#13 4 months ago

ok so that is the relay for the lamp. it doesn't go pass that? Hard to work on this with out the schematics. I will do some digging today to see if i can find them.

#14 4 months ago

Nope! Still stuck there and the test mode can't go further.
What is strange, is that i was able to do the switch test last week. Well............electronics! Lol

Ok thank you very much!

#15 4 months ago

one thing that helps these are the ground mod. TNT has a good way of doing it. This can typically fix a lot of problems

We will figure this out some way

#16 4 months ago

I did the ground mods........
same problem!
Still stuck on lamp 0 when i did a mode test.

#17 4 months ago

Are these boards brand new?

#18 4 months ago

They are new but they were working for 100-150 games.
After that the problems appear.

#19 4 months ago

I’m going to need to see if we can get you some help from others
chrishibler
quench

#20 4 months ago

Thank you

#21 4 months ago

I did 3 vidéos to show the problem so if you want to see this short videos just click on the links below



#22 4 months ago

I'm pretty familiar with 80B material but by no means an expert like Chris.

The first video is probably due to a bad drive transistor to that particular coil.

Second video might be one of the Z chips that pertains to that lamp - had a similar issue with my Genesis.

I "think" I have a Bone Busters manual in my stash... I can take a look later for you when I return home

#23 4 months ago

Thank you very much Schusler

#24 4 months ago

you can buy a manual here:
https://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/DOC1091
pbr also has them.

#25 4 months ago
Quoted from DJSPIDER:

Thank you very much Schusler

Sorry DJ, thought I had the manual but it was the sales flyer instead...

#26 4 months ago

1st video: The lower car insert lamp in front of the drop targets is locked on. Probable failed transistor on driver board.

2nd video: The relay that enables coil power has opened for whatever reason. System 80/A/B pop bumpers will ALWAYS fire as long as they have coil power. They work independently from all other game aspects. To score, there is a secondary switch that detects the pop bumper ring actuating.

3rd video: Argh....a Swemmer MPU and a RD driver board. There is no guarantee that those two play together nicely. I'd repair and install your OEM driver board. You also mentioned that you repinned A3J3, the big black connector on the driver board bottom. Make sure that a wire hasn't been inserted one off or swapped with another.

What was wrong with your OEM MPU and driver boards?
--
Chris Hibler - CARGPB #31
http://www.ChrisHiblerPinball.com/Contact ... for board repairs
http://www.PinWiki.com - The Place to go for Pinball Repair Info

#27 4 months ago

Hi Schusler, no problem and thank to you for your research! I appreciate

#28 4 months ago

Hi ChrisHibler
Thanks for your help.
First, i will buy the manual on the net to understand much better what is the system 80B and for more informations about the Bone Busters.
Second, about the OEM MPU and driver board; when i purchased the pinball the new boards was already installed and i dont know why the OEM was removed from the pinball but the machine were operationnal 100% with no problem.
Third, when i have repin the A3J3, i am pretty sure all the repinning have been done like the original. Wire and connector 1 by 1 to be sure everything still stand like original pinout.
Now, i dont know what to do. Pinball were perfect at the beginning and right now it's a big puzzle for me.
Maybe i'll need to replace the MPU and the driver board with a OEM part. Let me know

1 week later
#29 4 months ago

any updates?

2 months later
#30 50 days ago

I still with the same problem!
I can't repair the pinball...............
Maybe it's really simple to fixed that problem but as i am not a expert, i think i will need help from someone who knows that pinball or Gottlieb system 80B. I am pretty sure someone have experienced that problem and resolved it.........

1 week later
#31 40 days ago

Guys may i ask you something. One of my friend have this machine and needs an information about Solenoids:

Can anyone tell me what Solenoid 4 and Solenoid 6 exactly do?

Thank you.

#32 40 days ago
Quoted from DJSPIDER:

I still with the same problem!
I can't repair the pinball...............
Maybe it's really simple to fixed that problem but as i am not a expert, i think i will need help from someone who knows that pinball or Gottlieb system 80B. I am pretty sure someone have experienced that problem and resolved it.........

might want to see if you can reach out to swemmer to see if they can assist since it is their board. They might be able to help you pinpoint the issues.

Quoted from Joco77:

Guys may i ask you something. One of my friend have this machine and needs an information about Solenoids:
Can anyone tell me what Solenoid 4 and Solenoid 6 exactly do?
Thank you.

I would love to help but I don't have a manual for this one to tell you what they are. does your friend have a manual?

#33 37 days ago

I got a mail from John Robertson but i cannot reply a mail to him, so i hope he will read this, becouse i got an answer from my friend who still needs this information:

" go down to page 52 lower corner

this boards have dual functions for the solenoids

Sol enabled + relay OFF = 1st function

Sol enabled + relay ON = 2nd function

the first functios are the ones you mentioned we need the second one and the relay controller

Relay A, B and C are not mapped to anything right now."

This is the informations he still needs.
Thx again John Robertson.

1 week later
#34 25 days ago

Okay John answered some questions (Thx John) only 1 information needs to be answered, i hope maybe someone knows the answer:


SOl 4 drives Q2 and Q55 (A3 Driver Board)

Sol 7 drives Q1 and Q56 (A3 Driver Board)

the thing I like to know is

are Q1 and Q55 enabled at the same time or does Sol4 have a dual function (enabled by a Relay) ”

That's all...anyone know the answer?
Thank you.

#35 20 days ago

Still looking for the answer. Neceserry info for a virtual version release.

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