If the AX coil on the Reset Control interlock relay doesn't activate,
Inspect and diagnose this circuit with Alligator clip jumper wires

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/gottlieb-big-shot-repair#post-6305153
http://www.planetimming.com/Pinball/troubleshooting/EM%20Troubleshooting.pdf
http://www.pinrepair.com/em/index3.htm#features
Example of a pinsider actually doing this https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/red-baron-tech-question#post-5858156

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The ax coil gets voltage on one side via the black wire that goes back to the transformer. It completes the circuit on the other coil wire through that series of switches, eventually getting to the red-white wire. The idea of the jumper is to bypass those switches to figure out which one isn’t doing its job.

Here are the steps that I would do.

Jumper from the red-white wire to the slate+red wire on the ax coil. If it doesn’t pull in, then either the black wire is not making a connection back to the transformer or the red-white wire isn’t connected to the transformer red wire via the counter switch.

If it did pull in, then I move to the brown+red wire on the make-break switch on the U relay. If that works, I move to the next switch. If it doesn’t, then I clean and adjust the switch until it works.

The process continues from switch to switch until it works. I also like to use the light bulb tester method that shows me the same thing. You take 2 12 volt car bulbs, solder a wire between them to put them in series, then solder 2 wires with clip leads on the ends. The same process is used as the jumper, but it visually shows you if you have voltage at each step.

Dave

The first schematic below has 3 paths to activate the Ball Return relay (O), including the Ball Return switch
The second schematic below keeps the O relay locked on until the motor rotates 1/3 turn

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The normally closed switch on the Q relay you show in post 6 has a Red+White wire on one terminal and a Red-Yellow wire on the other.

look at the video around 3:00 in.

the long blade tension is primarily what moves the lifter. The little spring doesn't have the force to do it.

people say "never adjust the moving/long blade" ... this is one of the exceptions.

afaik, if the switch is open when the armature is on the coil top, the long blade goes in the lower slot. Otherwise, it goes in the upper.

keep in mind the factory didn't have an army of switch adjusting gnomes ... when they assembled the switch stacks with new/straight blades, no adjustment was needed.

after lotsa use, the blades may curve, have some position memory or the contacts are worn, so adjust is needed.

if you have to bend the short blade way away from straight to make the switch do something, then likely the long blade is in the wrong slot.