Check the voltage from the 110/120 source. Sometimes I've seen this problem when voltage is under 117 volts. It could be other factors related to the transformer, but check the source voltage first...

Voltages seem fine... What is the history of the machine? Was it playing normally at one point? Has the machine been shopped? Did you recently purchase the machine?... I've had a few Gottlieb machines that were "sluggish" that needed a lot of maintenance on all the solenoids and linkages. Once the maintenance was done, the machines were greatly improved gameplay wise...

Can you upload some pics to IPDB?

Poor contact at the coil fuse holder?

What is the normal solenoid voltage on this era of machine?

25v

You can try to jumper over everything and fire your coils to see if you have a dirty or marginal connection somewhere. Otherwise try a rebuild kit. Do you have new coil sleeves -- nylon ones?

24V coils are not going to be super punchy, sounds like maybe your transformer is high tapped already.

Hi Sean
do You have the schematics. I show Fashion Show --- and here, Oklahoma https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/1961-gottlieb-oklahoma-no-start#post-3754083 we see the same switches on same relays --- so I repeat @dr_nybble: "Jumper over everything to see ...".

The Score-Drums are BELOW (towards the transformer) these switches - not influenced by these switches --- but bumpers, flippers etc. are above and therefore influenced. Greetings Rolf

0Fashion-Show-Work-03 (resized).jpg

Hi Sean
No - No - No ---please wait for next post to come. Greetings Rolf

Hi Sean
I talk as we'd have an "Fashion Show" pin to troubleshoot (so look-up the colors of the wires in YOUR schematics).

Toggle-off the pin and unplug the main power cord (Safety Reasons). Look the wire running from transformer "HOT" - wire-color-red-yellow to 25-Volt-Fuse. Then wire-color-red-white runs away from the fuse into the pin. Then come the mentioned switches - then the connection runs further as wire-color-red-mingled-with-white. (Look in Your schematics --- look for a switch that is obviously on the playfield) I choose "Slingshot-Switch has such wire-color-red-mingled-with-white soldered-on".
I establish*** an permanent jumpering. Then I plug-in --- I am ready to immediately toggle-off the pin if something strange is happenning - toggle-on and start a game then I try the flipper bats and the bumpers - everything.

I assume: All connections withing the playfield are good --- so when I jumper from the fuse to "someplace on the playfield": Everything on the playfield works - works the same.

I establish*** an permanent jumpering: Better would be: Having a Jumper-Wire that has a SWITCH in the wire --- we could establish (pin is toggled-off and main power-cord is unplugged) the permanent Jumper with its switch OPEN - then plug-in, toggle-on, start a game --- THEN close the switch in the Jumper-Wire. Doing so we would be very close to "reality in a running pin".

The way I suggested it: Simple Jumper-Wire (with no switch) is good --- we must be ready to toggle-off when the pin does not like a permanent connection during reset as in a functioning pin the connection is cut --- so Your pin may act strange --- not resetting or other strange stuff happening ---
99.9% chance: We can do this test with a simple Jumper-Wire (with no switch) - and the pin does not act strange. Greetings Rolf

0Fashion-Show-Work-04 (resized).jpg

Excellent!!!