Not exactly. That switch causes the associated relay to pull in, and that causes the scoring and the chime to ring. That switch goes directly to that relay (in this case, 10 point relay). But if that switch doesn't make, the relay won't pull in.

What upper sling? Atlantis only has two. If you're referring to the rubber to the right of the upper rollovers, that's not a sling, it's just a rubber with a switch behind it.

Yes. If the 10 point reel is scoring on ANY 10 point switch and the 10 point chime is working on ANY 10 point switch, then it's not the relay and almost certainly the switch that makes when the sling arm operates is the culprit here.

Any switch on the playfield should score. That's what it is there for. So if it's not scoring, either it needs cleaning/adjusting or you have a broken off wire somewhere.

A really nice original or a restored one can go for upwards of $1500. It's a so called A list game and it brings a premium.

Hold on a sec, if the switches were closed, they would cause the 10 point relay to lock on and you'd get no 10 point scoring at all, but you said the upper rubber was scoring. Plus, if those were closed, you'd hear the relay locked on and you'd eventually burn up the coil. Something isn't right.

As for pricing, my game has a very nice original glass in it, a pretty nice original playfield, but I've got a Wade replacement. New plastics and the NOS posts from boilerman. Rebuilt flippers and bumpers. The fish on the side have a bit of leprosy on them (touched up) and the cab has a few bumps and bruises, but not a ton. My plan is to repaint the cab, install the Wade playfield, put a new coin door on it, and probably new legs. If someone offers me $3000 after all that, I probably still wouldn't take it. It's that good a game, and I looked for a long time for it. Out of all my games, the only one that is its equal, maybe even better, is Jacks Open. Those two are two of the best wedgeheads ever made.

Well, I guess we'll just say glad it's all working. Don't know what was going on there because a closed switch is pretty obvious right off the bat.

D'oh. Mike's right and I'm an idiot. The upper rubber does score 500, I just clean forgot, haven't played the game for a few days and getting old, I guess. So a closed switch on a 10 point score would cause what you described, but I'm still mystified how you didn't hear the relay locked on, and how you didn't burn up the 10 point relay.

In any case, glad that's fixed.

He lives in the Pinball Land O' Plenty. Not out here in the middle of the country where too many games got stored in barns.

That would be incorrect. Pins go in those holes above the wireforms in the bagatelle.

GTB-A10542+

Nice drive, huh?

Man, I'll tell you, yellow dots on this game would really scare me, because some of those drops are really close to the flippers. Closer than just about any drops out there on any other game.

I rebuilt my flippers on my Atlantis like I normally do and they are plenty powerful with the standard coil and normal tap. The 5000 isn't so much a matter of power as it is accuracy in shooting to hit both targets at once. And to be honest, some luck. With the open inlane you have to be careful trapping and shooting that shot.

This game simply doesn't need yellow dots. It's complete overkill.

No flipper is going to hit the ball well off the tips. That's just the way it is.

The new style linear flippers have plenty of strength to them, assuming they're rebuilt properly and adjusted properly. It's not anything to do with Atlantis.

The outside lug with the biggest wire is the high power side. The other is the low power side. The center lug will have both. The wires for the EOS will go to the center and smaller wire lugs. Main solenoid power goes to the high power side. The line from the center tap (the flipper button switch) goes to the low power side, along with a wire for the EOS.

Bigger wire + fewer wire turns = less resistance (and more power)

Smaller wire + more wire turns = more resistance (and less power).

Just realize that an EM isn't a SS/DMD and it will never play like one. Atlantis is AC all the way, so it's going to play slower and with less power than a SS/DMD, or an EM that has rectified DC power.

You can get them to play better, but they'll never play as fast as a SS/DMD game, unless you convert them to DC power. They only have 25v of power to the coils and being AC, it will never have the pop a DC game has.

Bally (and Williams) used 50v at varying times, and they play fast, but still not like a modern game.

The game you played also might have been high tapped.

Yes.

I've seen games with 99k on the meter that look new, and games with 38k on them that are rough (and I own one of those).

The meter is nothing more than the number of times the game has been reset. It tells you that and really nothing else.

Mine is nearly perfect, just had to do a tiny touchup on the two fish right above the score reels. Except for a Bally Odds and Evens that I had, which was basically perfect except for one small scratch, this is the nicest original glass I've ever had. And much like Atlantis, the backglass on Odds and Evens was mostly green.