On issue 1 and 2: If you push the G relay armature in manually, does it score 500 points? If it does, I'd inspect the three NC switches leading to the G relay - both the rollovers and drop targets need these three switches closed to score 500. These 3 switches are on D, C and 5B.

If G doesn't score 500, we look at G and beyond...

G relay (resized).jpg

For Issue 3: Check out the 4 motor switches labeled "Bonus Score Control Switch". The bonus scoring relies on these switches opening at the right time to mask out 4, 3, 2, 1 or none of the motor 1A pulses, based on the current position of the bonus unit rotor. More than one of these switches may not be opening or shorted (example: 3000 pts on a 1000 bonus) letting through extra 1A pulses. 4000 pts on 5000 bonus however, may be a different issue. Let's see how the 500 point scoring works in issues 1&2 - it uses the same 1A.

Attached schematic showing the 1000 point bonus path.

All your bonus rivets and shoes are shiny clean? Shoes centered on rivets? Bonus lights work correctly?

Bonus path 1000 (resized).jpg

Sounds like the G hold switch isn't working -OR- one of the three switches I mentioned above is open, the drops, rollovers AND hold switch are to the right of the suspected switches. So the plan remains the same for 1&2...

I believe that's 1D that you have circled (1B is riding posts between the two platters, second up from the bottom) but 1D still looks weird - it should have only one NO switch. Let me search around for posts that mention mods to Abra.

I believe it's a Supplement Coin Chute circuit addition... the Supplemental schematic shows a couple of 1D switches...

A Q relay switch is what should trip G for rollover scoring, it is also to the right of the suspect switches (on the larger schematic, not my snippets).

Q is a buzzer on my Abra as well.

While watching/reading tutorials… one other tool to add to your toolkit is jumpers - a wire with an alligator clip at each end (or better yet, EZ hooks at the ends). In your example, this jumper could be used to quickly bypass the C, D, 5B and/or H switches to help determine if any of those switches were the problem. Once identified, only the faulty switch(es) need to be adjusted to restore operation.
A quick summary here:
http://www.pinrepair.com/em/index3.htm#features

With regard to checking switch dogs, you can quickly check the position of the Motor 1 switch dogs by looking in the coin door (but then again, I imagine you have your playfield up - then it’s even easier). I’ve attached a marked up photo of Abra’s Motor 1 switches. Both dogs *should* be in the “S” position. If either were in the “L” position, the switch dog would be out another quarter of an inch, about at the end of the fork-like switch dog bracket.

Motor 1 switch dogs (resized).jpeg

The drop target bonus lights and scoring are controlled by the “I” Relay - it’s an AS-type relay (like the “F” match relay). One side of the I relay controls the lights that walk down the drops, indicating which target should score the bonus. The other side controls the bonus scoring. Sounds like the lights are working, and the scoring isn’t? Check out the two sides of the I Relay, are they clean, the wiper arms centered on the disc pads and contacting them? A pic of the “I” Relay is attached - it is suspended below the playfield. This is a shot of the bonus scoring side of the relay, indicated by the OR+BLK wire attached to the “C” solder tab on the disc.

I_relay (resized).jpg

Switch dog history:

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/gottlieb-far-out-schematic-error#post-6159611

Well done! Regarding the chimes, look for something common across all three chimes. The two things that come to mind are the actual “common” (BLK) wire to the coils and the rebuild that you did. First, the common wire - is the spade connector firmly attached to the coil and the wire firmly attached to the spade connector (could be crimped or soldered)? If you don’t see anything obvious, take a resistance measurement from the black wire on one of the relays on the motor board to the last chime coil in the common wire daisy chain. Second, the rebuild - all three plungers slide freely in their sleeves? Nylon tip up? No shorting of any wires or spade connectors to the chime frame?
Chime Unit (resized).jpeg

Regarding the theory behind the Motor 1A “L” switch dog position and the resultant behavior - you’re right, this switch dog position delays the 1A pulses (about 7%). As a result, the fifth 1A pulse begins to overlap the Motor 2B pulse (which is used to release G in the 500 point case and E in the bonus scoring case). Additionally, in the bonus scoring, the “L” switch dog causes the 1A pulses to slide relative to the 4 masking pulses. All bets are off with this changed timing, it comes down to how much charge flows through a switch that is opening prematurely and whether it’s enough charge to get the relay down the line to move.

The reason adjusting the 1A switch gap was affecting the behavior, it that you also are changing 1A timing based on the gap width, but to a much lesser extent than the switch dog does.

…and, yes, many thanks to baldtwit for the suggestion to check the dog - we could’ve ended up putzing around for 50 or more posts chasing ghosts.

Here you go....

Replay Scores (resized).jpg